How to remove a completely stripped stuck oxygen sensor in less than thirty seconds! 

did it work

Not sure how people have the clearance and angle to work a pipe wrench on a o2 sensor if ur exhaust is laying on the ground but an upstream under the hood seems impossible to me

Did you find one? I have the upstream in bank 2 and its hard to get to. Its hell. I've tried heating it, tried tons of different sockets, started using a cutting wheel really small but its not really enough power to cut through. I will buy a breaker bar and a longer extension. Let me know if you have any other ideas.

@@rytoniowendolini2793 Yes sir. Gearwrench bolt biter. I bought the 5 piece set. The single socket is hard to find in stock. Sprayed some pb blaster on it the night before and the bolt biter snatched it right out. Definitely recommend a breaker bar, but the bolt biter made it light work.

Where can I buy a maximum set like his, do you know?

Can I turn the engine on without the oxygen sensors connected?

@@elkuartostudio why? your engine must have good o2 sensors to run properly.

@@elkuartostudio you can for a short period of time. You can unplug it while in the process of fixing it😮‍💨. I had a bad upstream sensor and I completely broke it off. And started my car up to make sure everything was still running in my head lol. 2011 Ford Fusion

@@elkuartostudio Yes - I turned my Ford Fusion 06 on with 2 02 Sensors disconnected just to warm it up.

Amazon, the link is in the video description :)

You may rent the tools for free at an auto parts store.

2001 silverado

Good one!

Oh l

Happy to hear you have an update to make make it easier OM

If a wrench will fit with angle and clearance, if a wrench fit wouldn't make special o2 sensor sockets

Didn't watch the video 🤣

Say what

@@native167 O2 sensors are 22mm, not 7/8 inch. 22mm Crowfoot sockets are the best, tightest fit.

@@native167 ....what's the problem?....7/8" = 0.875". In contrast, 22mm = 0.866" jaw width....a tighter and better "fit".

@@TheWilferch cool thank you very helpful . I got the part replaced tho

@@native167 ....I thought showing the numbers may help, even for others....👍

Tried that, but didn't work for me. Just stripped it worse...

Same here. I'm going to attempt heating it and use vice grips,if not I'm trying this extractor. I'll use this last because I will have to cut it off. Good luck to us. Lastly, take to a shop if all else fails

@@josedel7439 I heated it, put on the box end, and they welded together.

When using heat, use candle wax as lubricant. Also, consider tightening and backing out in cycles. THIS is why breaker bars are 'breaker bars.' They are designed exclusively to break fasteners loose. Rust is your problem. For some situations, it's possible to apply anti-rust disolver. Search yt for videos on what's out there. O2 sensors are NEVER bunged into cats. They are in front or behind them. A sensor 1 is in front; a sensor 2 is behind. Sensor 1s run the engine. Sensor 2s are for emissions qualification. You can skip the latter if you're in a location that never demands a 'pass.' You can never skip a sensor 1 failure -- as your gas mileage will plunge -- and you'll destroy your plugs and much else. (the cat)

@@davidhimmelsbach557 Tried & used those that you have mentioned with no success. If you never seen an Oxygen Sensor parked on the Catalytic Converter, then you are lucky. Sensor 2 usually has heat shield around the Catalytic Converter. Ferrari, Honda, Hyundai & Mitsubishi have O2 sensors parked on the Catalytic Converter.

@@angelisone Your sensor is NOT in a cat. It just looks like it is. You have a two-stage catalytic converter set up. In the first element, CO is changed to CO2; in the second stage NOx is changed into N2. Different catalysts are used in this scheme. The two-stage scheme pre-dates the one-step design. Why use two-stages? The chemistry gets better*, AND, you have the ability to save on an extremely expensive metal -- which -- these days -- seems to be paladium. Because of the auto industry, the price of paladium has gone through the roof. Your sensor that appears to be in a cat is actually in an inter-pipe that is now integral with a complete assembly. The cats are actually, chemically, different. In the one-step scheme, the factory has paid up for more of the expensive stuff -- to avoid the two-stage design expense. My bet is that the factory penciled the numbers, and figured that it was cheaper to place the bung & sensor in the OEM assembly rather than weld one in the tail pipe -- which is what you see in most car designs. Catalytic converters are not made by Big Auto. Like starters and computers, these are bought from specialty OEM suppliers -- who are experts in catalyst manufacture -- which is where the money goes. The steel encasement is trivially inexpensive. * Better cat performance leads to other performance advantages for the engine. So, you can see why high end cars went this route. For high performance read: high compression. Even Honda has gone this route. High compression engines get faulted for excessive NOx emissions. (See: Diesels) I thought you'd want to know. Other than passing emissions certification, the sensor that you're fighting/were fighting has no effect on engine performance. It's a Sensor 2 location.

Lastly, if there is one thing that ought to be tried: vibration... while torquing the sensor back out. An air-hammer, at reduced power, with a blunt tool tip, would seem the professional's choice. The ultimate fall back is to take the exhaust system out of the car and to then drill out/ bust out the sensor. The final assault is in stages. You cut it off close with a sawzall/ grinder. Then you use your grinder/ sander to bring the sensor body flush to the bung. The ceramic interior is toast by now. Further, you may have to punch out/ drill out the last of the sensor so as to leave a ring of threaded metal in the bung. Now, at last, you can -- carefully -- tappa -- tappa with a cold chisel/ pointed punch and collapse the ring into breaking free by driving it towards the center of the hole with the punch. This last step utterly destroys its bond. Now chase the threads with an M18-1.5 tool -- so commonly available due to this very problem. A ceramic grinding tip on the end of an aid tool can be used to thin out the ring of the sensor so that when punched, it gives way at that spot. Man, that was some battle. My (1,1) sensor has taken me 40-hours, so far, as it was poorly located by Toyota. In 2004, Toyota totally changed the location to stop my nightmare.

@@davidhimmelsbach557 You got lucky with just 40 hours to remove the O2 Sensor. Ferrari is in worst location. Example that O2 Sensor in on the Catalytic Converter: 4:00 from Auto Repair Guys ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-39lXmndICNo.html Using a tap with cold chisel /or impact chisel is a bad ideal. Can destroy the cone inside of cat & heat shield

good luck with that. 6 point socket won't hold on a STRIPPED sensor. Hence, the video.

@Luis Garcia c'mon, you know he's a novice and doesn't really know what he's doing...just pay attention to the audio.

I really don't give a 💩