I only use RU-vid to watch informational videos or DIY stuff and I do like the way your videos are short and to the point with helpful information and not a big dragged out teach u nothing videos. Thanks.
Thank you, Thank you for this Video! I’m working in the basement at 2:30am, in NJ, to remove a drain pipe that comes from the kitchen into the main sewer line. I couldn’t figure out how to get the pipe out. I was working with a screwdriver chiseling out a little bit of lead at a time. I said this is crazy, so I went to you tube and found your plain and simple “how to” and the pipe was out in less then 10 minutes. I had been working in this for a few hours! Now to the Home Depot in the morning to get my fittings/PVC Pipe and it will be all done. I can’t thank you enough, your video was a “Lifesaver”!!
Duck butter works good Joint lubricant. I’m changing out a pipe between two cellars. And it’s all lead lines. Wanted to see if there was an easier way before I torch it up
Very helpful, straight forward and not filled with irrelevant rambling. Thank you for creating this video! I will be tackling this on some 1.5 in pipe for my bathroom sink as well as the 4 in for the toilet. My toilet has a lead sleeve that I am uncertain is original or a repair. Either way it has failed and rotted the floor again as I see the bathroom subfloor runs perpendicular to the joist and the original is at a 45 across the house.
Thanks for this informative video, my case is down in-ground. I don't have the comfort you have around the pipe. I have to use flame to melt and remove, is there any problem with that? Thanks for any advice
The only thing you didn't mention is what size drill bit you used. I have a 4" cast iron street ell I need to get lose from the top bell of a 4" cast iron tee. I just don't want to tear up the inside of the bell that I need to seal to.
1/4” I used about half the width of the seal. I was worried about that too but it barely scratched the cast iron. Just take your time. I’ve also seen people trim the input fitting to the seal flush then use a hole saw over the remaining pipe going right into the seal and it basically cuts out the seal. Haven’t tried it myself though
Thank You and thanks for watching! Hope you enjoyed and it helped out. I'll be posting the video of the copper to pvc piping change-out so be on the lookout for a new video soon.
How long dod it take to get it out total time? I hsve two of them in the series I need to unlead out and wondering how long i can figure on drilling and jacking with it.
@@theguyofalltrades thanks for responding, very much appropriate it. Torch isn't really a option because it's in a finished basement with tenets. So drilling and digging is it. I hate plumbing jobs, they have to be finished in one day 😂.
I think it was 3.5”. They make a bunch of different sizes. Lowes has a good selection. The original copper pipe was 3” but definitely different than 3” pvc
Cut the pipe off at the threads, insert a saw into the old remaining pipe and cut upwards to split the top, but make sure you do not touch the cast iron hub. There should be a good 1/4" of void between the pipe and hub, depending on size. Just slow down when you are nearly through. You then use a wrench and squeeze the pipe to deform it enough to remove. If it doesnt come out, you might need to cut another size of the old pipe completely in half. The last one i did was a 2" and it only took 15 mins, way faster and safer than drilling out the lead in my opinion.
Good thing doing it the hard way worked for you, because the Mapp gas torch that was your backup plan is not up to the task. You need a real "plumber's torch" (i.e., acetylene, alone) to melt the lead out. If you don't have one, you can drive to the rental place and back in less time than it takes to do this without the right tools. Congrats on getting it done, nonetheless.
There's little access to the two joints I had to remove, so I tried heat: lots of heat. Harbor Freight tools sells a torch that connects to the propane tank with a hose. It's a fearsome thing to use in the basement, but with about 30 minutes of application, all the lead dripped out of the joint and the oakum caught fire, blazing away merrily and filling the house and my lungs with acrid smoke. But the joints finally let go.
I wanted to have that as a separate video. Tried to keep it to the point. Wasn’t that bad honestly using a fernco from pvc to copper up top. Measure twice cuss once lol
I’ve also seen people use a large hole saw. Cut the pipe down to a short stub and find a hole saw that fits over the stub and where the lead seal is. Seems pretty fast but probably not worth the $40-50 bucks for the hole saw unless you plan on using it for something else
@@theguyofalltrades Guess what?....??? To remove the impregnated lead flange from the 4" brass main, I used a Dremel tool with a multi fluted cutter to ground down to surface... 15 minutes later and done. low speed with the Dremel worked... I'm in shock... Now just cleaning up the brass outing to surface and then fitting the T. I am in jubilation
