Dude, This was perfect! I watched several other videos over the passed couple months, and this was so much quicker and so much more detailed. Thank you. I swear this was like watchin a Rob Cosman vid on cutting dovetails! lol great stuff
I don’t subscribe to anyone but I subscribed to you. I just love your laid back, calm and simplistic approach to repair. It makes a dumb guy like me feel like it is possible for me to do a few things on the boat. Lol.
Top notch video, and maintenance. I'm new to the boating world, but like to do my own maintenance when possible. I'm glad I watched till the end, when you talked about fluid level. I thought my outdrive needed more oil because it was half way on the dip stick. Now I know it's just right. Subscribed!
To make the shift linkage removal/install much easier just put a dab of touch up paint on the threads next to the jam nut. Then when you install just put the jam nut up to the paint mark and your adjustment should be right on.
Thank you I wish I watched this video a couple of days ago I wouldn’t have been wrestling with my out drive I guess better late than never will definitely use that way in the future. Thanks again.
Thank you for posting this. It is extremely helpful! There are a lot of videos showing service procedures for the older SX-M drives, but for some reason, there is almost nothing available for the SX-A drives, so this is much needed. It would be very interesting to see a demonstration of bellows replacement if you get around to it. Question: the workshop manual says to discard the 6 nuts that hold the drive to the pivot housing. Is it necessary to replace them every time they are removed?
Hi James, thanks for the comments. Technically a nylock nut, or nylon insert locknut, is supposed to be replaced every use as the nylon insert looses much of it's locking ability after even a single use because the nylon becomes deformed to the shape of the threads. So, yes, it is necessary to replace them everytime they are removed if you want to maintain the same level of locking ability. That said, I very rarely replace them, I can tell as I am installing or removing them how much locking there is left. And to touch on another subject I expect to do a video on in the future, I rely on the tension of the stud for it to remain tight, not the locking ability of the nut. The nylon insert really is only effective at holding the nut on after it has already come loose. Tension the stud correctly and a lock nut is not required.
Thank you for the video. Super informative. Question, I have a 5.0 gxi f with SX drive. It is very hard to steer at low speed, also makes a strange rattling noise when in gear, turning, and moving at a no wake speed. No idea what it could be.
Perfect! A little different than Mercs, but well designed. On a mid 2000's DP is the shift cable adjustment difficult since it sounds like the cover is not a "wrap around" type, restricting the side view and pinch bolt?
Fantastic video! Just a couple of questions for you: if you hear a rumbling while you’re under way, I would suspect that my final bearing is probably the culprit but if I Don have bellows leakage can I take the gimbal bearing out without disturbing the bellows? Also, do you not use a sealant between the outdrive and the housing?
You make this look way too easy!!! I have a DPS-A outdrive. Pretty sure they're similar except for the dual props. I love the idea of using the engine lift! How often should you change the seals and o rings? I thought they should be done every time you pull the drive? I never knew this was such an important thing to do. I've had my DPS-A for a little over 10 years. Never pulled that I know of. The boat has been used very little, so I'm hoping all is ok. I'll be pulling the drive very soon.
@@CanadaWideMarine I finally found all the needed parts, but a local marine mechanic recommended using Aqua Shield grease by Quaker Houghton. It's a lithium complex NLGI #2 grease. Very high water resistance and corrosion resistance. High film strength, load capacity, temperature, and oxidation resistance. I saw you used Extreme Grease by Quicksilver. What do you think?
Hello CanadaWideMarine, first brilliant video! Very Helpful and very good explained. May I ask a question for you superb hook to screw into the oil level-thread, what do I need to build that? Many Thanks 😉👍
The hook is a short 1/2" UNC bolt with a ring welded to the top of it. I used a big 1-1/4 " ring to fit my hook into, but you could use a link off a chain too. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Add 11:20 you mentioned you installed a new seal 'at the front of the drive'. Where is that covered in a video? I couldn't see where that seal was and how it was replaced. Thanks
That was the input shaft seal. It is in behind the u joints. Not part of a regular service so I didn't cover that in this video. I may do some in depth repair videos in the future if there is a demand for them.
@@CanadaWideMarine Thanks for replying. I wanted to locate it and think I found it in my seloc book. It looks like its the seal protecting input bearing that holds the drive shaft portion located between visible ujoint and the upper gear housing. Enjoy your videos.
Thanks for another great video! Have you ever had to change the Volvo Penta SX-A Trim cover with the updated one that has two of the hydraulic lines coming in from the sides of the cover?
Great video! Very methodical. I need to replace a trim/tilt hydraulic line. How challenging is it to get to those - the correct way? Thanks in advance.
Again, by memory, removing the drive will give access to remove the cover over the hydraulic pump assembly and the hose fittings. Some of those covers had a corrosion issue, allowing water into the hydraulic pump, the only solution is to replace the whole transom plate.
It does not matter which gear the unit is in to remove it because you are disconnecting the shift cable before removing the drive. I usually leave it in neutral. I install the drive with it in gear, (fwd or reverse, doesn't matter), so I can turn the driveshaft by turning the propeller, then shift the drive into neutral before connecting the cable back up. Thanks for watching, and the kind comments.
Do you know if it’s possible to replace the gears in the upper or do you have to replace the whole upper? Called a repair shop and they said they could only replace the whole upper
Yes, it is possible to replace the gears in the upper. But, there are other things to consider. First, are the gears available?, (I would need your make model and serial number, and possibly a gear tooth count to find out). Second, the reality is not many marine shops rebuild sterndrives any more, so the shop you called may not be setup to do it, or may do it so rarely that they are not efficient at it, so it is often more cost effective for the customer and the shop to just replace the whole upper. I would want to know why you need gears in the upper. If they are damaged at all, I would be replacing your whole sterndrive because I would not want to be responsible for any stray bits of metal from the damaged upper gears to find their way into the lower unit and damage that. And you should know that replacing gears in a sterndrive is not a simple job. All the gears and bearings need to be shimmed for the correct clearances. There is a whole procedure to do it correctly, it is not simply a matter of pressing the old gears off and pushing new ones on and slapping it together.
If there is a lot of play in the steering wheel you kinda need to work out where it is. A common place that can cause play is in the engine bay where the steering cable enters the power steering ram, if the big nut on the cable is loose at all you will get a lot of play in the wheel. When it is correctly tightened you should not be able to slide the outer cable back and forth into and out of the nut. Other things to check are the mounts for the power steering ram, check the pins where the inner cable attaches and the steering arm attaches to the power steering. Then you can start checking gimbal housing bearings. All that assumes you have cable steering. If you have hydraulic steering you are most likely low on fluid and have air in the system. you will have to top up the hydraulic fluid and bleed the air out.
It's been several years since I've replaced trim lines on the Volvo, by memory I think I removed the drive, and trim rams, then steered hard to port to get access to the cover over the line attachments on the transom plate.
I don't remember ever having to remove one of them myself, but I would likely use the same procedure. Lots of heat on the aluminum housing, expands the housing and breaks down the corrosion, then drill and tap the pin and use a slide hammer.
Hi Adam, To remove and install a volvo sterndrive is not a big job, including running the boat up on the hose after installation should only be about 2 hours labour.
