Great video thank you

I have a 2018 Regal with the 4.3 catalyst engine which uses a different fuel pump then the one you show on your video and it has been been whining more steady in the last few years and I have almost a limp home mode at times that limits the throttle.When I first got the boat there were issues with dirt in the fuel filter and after changing it starting running better eventually.I am going to check everything on the suction side and hope fully find the problem.The fuel pump for this is around $700.00 so I would rather not replace this if I don’t have to.The pressure readings on this were approx.16lbs. on the low pressure side and 73 lbs. on the high side.That seems high but I assume these newer pumps with a direct injection must read higher.I have pulled the fuel pump off and was wondering if I should reinstall it if I find a problem or if not replace it?thanks

This was FASCINATING. There’s no way I could have figured this out on my own. I removed the old propeller and didn’t keep things in order. Thank you!

Thanks for this detailed video.

After watching your video I had the confidence to try!!! Thank you! I checked the impeller to find out it was fine. Altogether I was able to pull the lower and replace in in under 30 minutes, very easy. Checked the water line under the hood to find it was clogged with dirty sand from running in hollow water duck hunting. Disconnected water hose at engine and blew it out from exterior water outlet and an inch of sand came out of the tube! Boy was I relieved how easy it was and saved my self hundreds of dollars the shop would have charged me. Thank you!!!

You pull it off and don’t check alignment? No grease on shift pivot?? You didn’t clean the old grease out of the valleys of drive shaft??? No new wear pads on side of lower unit???? Go to Mercruiser school, according to specs only have to pull lower unit for inspection every three years unless a problem develops! For you do it yourself arm chair mechanics, if you decide to change bellows yourself, REPLACE THE SEALS IN THE VERTICAL SHIFT SHAFT ALSO!!! Alignment should be checked EVERY time lower is removed as mentioned earlier! When lower unit is out, use flashlight and look into housing past the gimbal bearing and look at the splines in the coupler!!! Coupler splines can be bad but drive shaft splines still look good!!!! Did he say or show where to look for lower unit lube leaks when pulled out, NO!! This guy only showed and said half the story needed to do the job!!! Theres more to check he NEVER mentioned!!!!!! Thumbs down from me on this video, retired marine mechanic here with over 40 years into it!!!

Hello Could you please make some video on that motor for spark plugs, internal anodes, thermostat, how to desalt the engine?

Excellent video. I just did mine and it hadn’t been off in years so that felt good to get everything all freed up, greased, and back in with new seals. You made it look easy guiding the u joint shaft back in, that drove me crazy. It kept flopping down and dragging and pulling that large foam 4” seal out of place. Was terrified I’d put it in mashed out of place. Finally got it. Of course I was manually lifting the outdrive so it was torture. Was already tired from jumping in and out of boat 50 times turning over motor trying to get alignment perfect with a coupler that has runout. Thanks for the video.

Made it look very easy THANK YOU!

Many more closeups please

I replaced the gear oil in outdrive, is it possible to create a leak at the shifter in rear of drive after replacing oil? the check valve a possibility?

Excellent

Nice explanation

Great educational video..

Thanks from Arnt in Sweden! Best instruktion video i ever sen❤

2008 Yamaha 20hp 4 stroke. Would run fine until planned off with wide open throttle. Would slowly start to stumble after less than a minute, and Would almost stall in a sharp turn. Took carb off to clean it and was spotless. Reinstalled and did same thing. Watched this vid and saw the float was about 10 degrees from parallel to carb! Sanded button down till float was parallel. Problem solved. This man is a true mechanic.

Thank you so much. Been struggling with a 3.5hp Mariner that has the mixture screw sealed. I'll definitely try this.

Looks like the same one i just boughr and put on my 87 Johnson 150 v6.

What you showed here is easy, i tried for long time to get the gear housing back on, splines arent matching. And tried to spin propeller and engine while pushing up, not possible... Think engine is ready for som dynamite

+++!

All I want to know how did you get 2 Land N Sea Catalogs lol

Does this also apply to smaller outboard motors? I have a 20hp mercury 4 stroke that won’t idle. Seems like a clogged idle jet.

Please how can I contact you? I really need help

Brilliant and informative video thank you

Thanks - I needed to know what problems are caused by the fuel level in the float bowl.

Hi there, enjoy your videos on the marine service, I am having an issue with the Mercury 40HP 4 stroke, I only had it for a couple of years, and bought it used, It ran ok for the first year, then one time the overheating, went away. then this has been quite frequent, I replaced all the water pump parts, thought was the problem as there was a significant amount of water being discharged. First run-out last week same thing but it seemed to get hotter more quickly. Removed the thermostat, tested on the stove by gently heating up the water, and opened it up at 180, did the test a few times leaving it to cool but found the thermostat to be somewhat sticking. The spark plugs look great fuel burn is excellent. should I try a new thermostat or do you think it could be a head gasket issue. The compression test on all cylinders is within spec, appreciate your input.

The hydraulic steering on my Yamaha 2005 makes it almost impossible to fit the greaseguns nozzle in to grease the tilt.

Non ethanol fuel no longer available here on southern Vancouver Island ! CHEERS from Here1

So should you replace pump after cleaning or only if noise is still there after cleaning?

We are having a problem with it not peeing. We changed the impeller and no luck. When we put the salt off the water runs good but when we try flush engine from water intake we get no peeing and the if small amount of water, it feels hot. Any ideas?

This is why I dont remove and change the impeller by my own because I cant reinstall it so hard . I dont wanna destroy anything on my shaft or so😮

Thank you flr everything i do it on my own as well. But is it better to het the motor running some minuter before or so so the oil is a bit warm and flush out easier than a cold ?

I just purchased a used Yamaha 15hp and figured I would clean the carb and found this same problem. Thanks Jim

This was a great video one of the best instructional videos I’ve seen of a carb rebuild. Great job.

What kind of clamp/vise is that supporting the lower unit? I am trying to find something similar to that for my own workstation. thank you! Your video is excellent.

Thank you for sharing your skills, could you tell me is the 30hp,four stroke the same set up as that 40 hp. motor . i am about to do mine. thank you. Aussie Chris

I recently purchased a marine engine diagnostic Ouija (weegee) board. Can’t wait to try it out!

I’m surprised you just don’t have an iPad for that. You have to bring out your whole laptop?

super interesting and valuable. Thanks. I wanted to add on my side, the electrical connectors attached to the high pressure fuel pump are often the cause of electrical issues leading to a noisy whining fuel pump. There might be a little weakness on those parts..

Really good instructions and explanations of how everything works and the causes and consequences of various faults, etc.

Also,, the little red duck bill vent in the gas tank cap, swelled up and would not vent, used a small pic to dig that mess out. Guess yamaha uses poor quality rubber products !!

Thanks for the info, i just ordered 2 after market carbs from amazon one manual choke, one electric, incase the carb fails out on the water, keep them in my tool kit. I hate my 15 yama 4 stroke lol

Nice job, my new 15 yamaha 4 stroke new yamaha tank, and hose not broken in yet. After the winter had no high speed. Open it up clean gas and high speed jet had small brass fleck in it from factory. That automatic electric choke i dont trust. I have yamaha 3 and 5 hp, 2 stroke best running motors i have ever seen. This 15 yamaha 4 stroke worst motor i have owned. My Suzuki 25 4 stroke 3 cyl 3 carbs nice motor!

I just installed new prop shaft seals. My 115 2 stroke has a different style thrust washer (not the same as the specified part in the service manual). I think I should change to the correct part (6E5-45987-01-00) because the new seals are so deep in the cavity I really think something should be on top of them to help hold them in place. (The drive shaft seals have a cap that secures them below the impeller plate.) Does the thrust washer you installed here fit inside the outer shaft housing and rest against the top seal? Or is there a space between the seal and the bottom of the thrust washer?

Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. Having seen this Im going right now to check the idle problem I have with my almost brand new 20 hp honda engine. Its idle circuit or probably float problem. /Thanks in advance! Regards, Johann from uruguay!

How do you grease a stiff throttle on a tiller Yamaha?

If you lift the motor after the initial drain and bring it down again you will be surprised how much additional oil will drain out. It will also make way less mess when you unscrew the filter :)

I cleaned a rebuilt everything and replaced all of rings and gaskets put everything back in spec and mine still takes forever to start even on a summer day. It’s a Yamaha F50TLRA 2002. 120psi compression all spark plugs are sparking well. The starter on cranks one second at a time and drops back down and it takes about 20 times for it to fire and then it runs fine. Any tips?

very nice video. thank you.

Why does Yamaha recommend 46 ft lbs of torque if it doesn't require much torque to hold the nut on? Seems a little shady. Always go by the manufacturers recommend torque specification. Otherwise you could find yourself missing a prop.