The fork on my Niner has been creaking lately but I wasn't sure how to take it apart. This video clearly explains how to do it step by step and how to grease the bearing to get ride off the creaking, which drives me crazy on those long uphill rides. 😕 Thank you Robbie for this video!
@@RBC_tech Hello there i need your help in something i have a question about my bike it’s a Scott ransom 910 2021 you see when ever i wash my bike with muc off soap and water i get a creeking sound from my headsets and it was so annoying that I couldn’t find what’s causing this till I opened the headsets and found out that when ever i wash it the grease from The headsets bearings fell of completely cause of the water and starts creaking like crazy but wait why the grease is dropping after i hose my bike its because it’s not a waterproof grease but that shouldn’t fix the problem that means i have to put fresh grease every time i wash my bike till I found out that the headsets that came with my bike from the factory it doesn’t has a washer completely like no washer whatsoever now my question is this and I think it’s the solution for my problem I’m willing to replace the headsets and the stem just to buy a headsets that has a washer i got In mind cane creek branch their the best I think anyway Since I have a square shape of headsets and square shape of spacers I’m forced to buy a new stem and a pare of new headsets that comes with a washer my only problem is that I don’t know if their is a measure I should take in min when ordering a new headsets with rounded spacers could you help me I really appreciate that thank you waiting for your reply thank
i love watching any UK or German youtubers they do things so much better and i love how they use the metric system i use that all the time now and love learning it, just wish the US would do it more i do see more places using it here but not as much as it should be
you skipped setting the star nut or the cutting to length...2 things I wanted to see and got from other videos...overall I enjoyed following along. Nice workshop BTW
Thanks for your message and glad you are enjoying the videos. If you want to see the star nut fitting and cutting please send me an email on rbcbikes@gmail.com with your mobile number and I will send you a WhatsApp video on how to measure, cut and prepare the steerer and fit the star nut.
@@RBC_tech I'm in the same boat as Ricardo. Excellent video but those 2 things are what I'm after as well. May I do the same thing so you could send me the video as well please?
@@RBC_tech hello great video great job with the installation I’m willing to buy a new fox 38 kashima fork but I don’t know what kind or type of crown race I should buy i have the same crown like yours on the video on my old fox 38 performance fork what type you think I should buy is there a measure or a number in crown race I should pay attention to? Please help me thanks 🙏
Hi MTB Absolute, thanks for your message. To confirm, by "crown race" you mean the bearing race that fits on the fork steerer tube? Please confirm I am not following your question?
Hi @dawbool9552, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Thanks for your feedback, I will be posting a service video for the newer SID at some point this year but feel free to contact me on rbcbikes@gmail.com if you want to service you fork and I will try to assist.
South African accent is the best! "What a pleasure" :)) I used to fly helis in Wonderboom. I have amazing memories from SA. I'll check more of your videos just now :)) I would love to go around the Kay river on an MTB adv :). I rode a 6 days trails on horseback for my job but I would love to do it on an MTB. Great video ! SA rocks ! I'm in Thailand now 😂 Bij dankie 👍👍
Thanks Skychaser, SA is an awesome country and lots of opportunities here. Glad you had a great experience, I guess you were here in the 1990's? Enjoy Thailand.
@@RBC_tech No not the 90's, 2003 & 2004, I enjoyed SA tremendously! I only have amazing memories! I had the privilege to meet a bunch of top notch pilots! I use to train with Dave Mouton and Wessel VD Berg. I speak fluently Dutch so understanding Afrikaans came pretty easy :) I use to rent cool planes in Rand airport. I got to see a few game reserves and fly over them as well. What an amazing country filled with amazing people like yourself! I know you guys are having some rough times but hopefully it will improve. I am aware of what is going on... Your videos are really good! I never get tired to hear the SA accent. Just like music to my ears. It reminds me how magnificent SA is! Keep your videos coming! Thailand is hotter than SA. If you ever decide to visit .Give me a shout! I'll show you around :)
hello, hope to get an answer here... I have a carbon frame, is there anything I should pay special attention to? As far as I can tell the structure (of the fork mount) in terms of bearings, spacers, etc. is pretty much the same as on the bike in the video, but from previous repairs I know that carbon frames can be a little finicky, so I just wanted to ask if there's anything special I should pay attention to in that regard...
HI Max, thanks for your message. Ok so the headset on your carbon frame can start to creak if the following is not correct. The headset and bearings need to be the correct ones that the manufacturer of the frame recommends. If you already have the bearing cups pressed/glued into the headset please be sure to use the correct bearings, the angles on bearing outer shoulder should match the frame manufacturers spec. I would also confirm that the bearing race is compatible with the bearing you are fitting (if you are not fitting a complete headset) I recommend using "Creak Freak" from r.s.p for the bearing as this will not attract dirt bit if you cannot get this product then a water proof grease will do, just lightly spread it on the cup before you fit the lower and upper bearing. The one part that you need to ensure is there is the spacer that aligns and secures the steerer and upper bearing, be sure to fir this under the top cap before you add the spacers. Without this this part the headset wont tighten up. Use a small amount of the "creak freak" or grease on this part as well. If your frame has cups fitted and you are just adding bearing then its important to note that the top cap of the headset will fit over the top bearing and not touch the frame, this can happen if the bearings or spacer is not tall enough to hold the top cap above the frame, if this is the case when you tighten the headset onto the bearings the cap will push onto the frame. If this happens check the spacer or add some shims to increase the height of the top cap.
Hi Miles, thanks for your message, this is normally caused by the spaced that aligns the bearing with the frame and steerer tube. This has a taper onto it and the taper is pushed into the bearing taper and tightens around the steerer tube when the stem is tensioned to pull the bearings together. To get this out, remove the stem and spacers, front wheel and brake, hold the frame and firmly tap out the fork, using a wooden or rubber mallet. The tapered spacer will slide up the steerer tube, once you see it and its free of of the top bearing push the fork back into the frame and this will release the tension on the tapered spacer. You can now slide the spacer off the steerer and safely remove the fork. Don't forget to refit the spacer into the correct position when you fit the fork again.
2nd video I see on the subject. Still can't find how to do it on my Canyon Neuron (Fox34). Even with stem/bar and spacers off, nothing moves, bearings won't come out, even if I pull like crazy on the fork. EDIT: Finally got it out by hitting the tube repeatadly with a large block of wood. My bearings seem to be press-fitted directly on the frame. Putting it back is going to be a nightmare...
Hi Corentin, yep sometimes these bearings are tight in the frame, although they should do back without too much trouble you might need to press them back in. Send me an email to rbcbikes@gmail.com and I will give you some guidance without going to the expense of purchasing a expensive bearing press.
Hi Francis, please send me a picture of your fork and steerer to rbcbikes@gmail.com I believe that the steerer was cut with a pipe cutter which flares the steerer tube where its been cut, you might have to file the flared part down to remove it from the bearings. I will confirm when I see the pictures.
Hi Bobby, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Please follow the link attached for the service procedures. www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service
Hi Yjhay Cod, thanks for your message and support of our channel. Most crown races are pressed onto the steerer tube so will need to be knocked off, some forks have a slot in the crown to allow you to pry the race off the tube but failing this take the fork to a bike shop and ask them to remove it with the correct race remover tool.
Hi Gaz C 85, thanks for your email and support of our channel. If you have removed the top cap and loosened the bolts on the stem the fork should come out with a gentle tap on the top of the steerer tube with a wooden mallet. Check that the bearing cap is loose and tap the top of the steerer tube. If this still does not come out you could have a threaded steerer tube that has a threadless stem and top cap to look like an A-Headset. To confirm, if you take off your spaces under the stem you should see the headset bearing top cap, if you see a 32/36mm nut then this is a threaded steerer. In this case the nut needs to be removed first but if you confirm that you have this style I will advise you on the way to remove it.
@@RBC_tech yeah i see the star nut inside the steerer tube, i have no idea the dimensions if it i mean the steerer tube is pretty rusty, maybe it has something to do with that
Hi EMFresh, so I fit the fork into the bike before I cut the steerer tube to the length I want. I then fit the spacers I want and then the stem, then I make a mark on the steerer at the top of the stem. Remove the fork and locate the mark you made. measure 5mm lower down the steerer and make another mark, this is the mark you will use to cut. Score a line around the steerer tube and fit it again just to check you have the correct height. Then take it out and using a pipe cutter slowly cut the steerer. Once the tube is cut, clean the top and inside with a file, fit the star nut and fit the fork to the frame. The top of the fork should now be 5mm below the top of the stem which gives you enough space to tension the bearings. za.rs-online.com/web/p/pipe-cutters/7243866/?cm_mmc=ZA-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_ZA_EN_Hand_Tools_Whoop-_-(ZA:Whoop!)+Pipe+Cutters+(2)-_-7243866&matchtype=&pla-341419127668&gclid=CjwKCAjw47eFBhA9EiwAy8kzNOfC5RwWWS-C_l14sKcIgiP6D4saE_K2tQtzDezbuy9yTwySPd5AGBoCxuAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@TT-gl9lh Thanks for your message and support of our channel. When fitting the star nut its important to push it straight in and to the correct depth, for this we use our trusty Park Tool TNS-4 which does the job perfectly every time. check the link here - www.parktool.com/en-int/product/deluxe-threadless-nut-setter-tns-4?category=Frame+%26+Fork
