@@georgefarrowgreen01 How is interference fit that requires expensive specialist tools and hammers to remove and install possibly better than a screw thread?
@@M0jibake technically, a press fit is a better way to fit a cartridge bearing than a threaded fitting. Done correctly, the bearing should actually be an interference fit on the axle and a slip-fit into the frame. In practical terms, though, everything comes down to cost - a press fit, to be made accurately, is very expensive, especially in composite. A threaded fitting, although technically inferior if cost is no object, can be designed and made at lower cost for the same degree of accuracy. In composite, though, the problem is a reliable bond between a metal BB sleeve that can carry a thread and the composite of the frame - hence press fit gaining popularity. PF is also lighter, so for the weight-weenies, it scores.
You probably dont care but does someone know of a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost my account password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Pierce Jonah Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
You guys are the GOLD STANDARD for repair videos ! Thank you !! I think this is my last bike with PF though. I'm looking for threaded in future bikes !
They did it to save money in manufacturing and (in mountain bikes at least) very quickly found out that the cost of warranty replacement frames was greater than threading.
Years late, but if you think THAT is what keeps my job going, I have a lot of stories to tell about people who come in because their lights don't work. There's a not insignificant amount of people who just didn't turn it on.
I am never going to use a tool without a tutorial from Park Tool again for the rest of my life. Having the right tool is barely half the equation. Knowing how to use it is much more than half... my brain is full ! i feel like i am in school again, at university... overload ! i am terrified of BB's but I know I have to overcome my fear and thanks to PT i will !
Stubborn PF46 bottom bracket in a used Factor 02 frame. Park BBT 30.3 and few strong whacks got 'er done. Forgot I had one until I watched this video. Top Man !!!
It’s interesting that Trek seems to be going back to threaded bottom brackets on their latest bikes. Removal tool, press tool, different sized drifts, retaining adhesive, primer adhesive, non-reuseable bearings after removal. Just give me an old school threaded Shimano please.
Just buy a bike with a threaded bottom bracket, been working fine for decades and it's easy to install and remove and no annoying creaks unless it's goosed.
I have to admit I desperately hate the pressfit. The idea is not bad, but the quality control is terrible even at the top shelf manufacturers. I had two bike frames so far with PF and both of them started to squeak after a short time. :/
Thanks for ennmurating all these idiotic BB types. Any future bike purchase will be dependant on the type of BB to AVOID - i.e. all of them in this video.
Overall this video is a great advert for threaded BBs and why most people should avoid press fit if possible. Luckily I don't ride road so I'm able to simply not buy MTBs with press fit... plenty of quality manufacturers have gone back to Threaded so you no longer have to deal with PF issues.
@@mavallarino every bike mechanic on earth can attest to the fact that press fit is absolutely not more reliable. They require more maintenance and make more noise than threaded BBs ever did. I don’t doubt that PF performs more efficiently, but for 99% of the cycling population that marginal difference is irrelevant, and they’d be better suited with soemthing that’s easier to service.
Wish the French had been using press fit in the 1970's. Then my old Gitane could be using modern cranks, instead I'm stuck with a French THREADED BB, and tapered spindle cranks. Threads not always the best.
Do not use a rubber mallet when banging out a pressfit BB. use a regular hammer as shown. And yeah, I suspect a second person would be super helpful. I spent an eternity removing a BB doing it wrong. Very frustrating.
Great and comprehensive video - thanks! I note however that Shimano does NOT include the application of any grease/ adhesive to a press fit bottom bracket. I am not sure what to do. My approach is to follow the manufacturer recommendations, in general. Comments anyone?
Keep in mind the press bottom bracket is only half the system. The frame shell is the other half, so the recommendation of the bike builder must also be considered, and they do not always match. Our recommendations are based on our experience, bike manufacturer recommendations, and of course component manufacturer's recommendations.
this is why press fit is also known as "eternal bottom bracket", since we only do this medieval procedure if it's broken, stuck, completely unusable, etc
You got lucky getting a correct tolerance frame for PF. Most of them are sadly out of tolerance of what is needed for a properly functioning PF BB. Even a blind mouse finds a piece of cheese on occasion. 😀
It would be nice to see a Thompson press fit sealed square spindle bottom bracket installation. Cottered Thompson spindle bottom bracket with coaster break, give some problems of deformation... maybe the parts are't hardened at all :/ Thanks for the video!
On BMX frames it’s way easier than MTB: nearly all frames are Mid BB and you only have to press the bearings with a spacer in between in the frame. Done! And all professional cranks except Aluminium cranks have 48 Spline axle.
Press fit bearings are the go to standard for any applications. The reason they have been an issue in bikes is that manufacturers don’t understand or don’t control the tolerances to the same specification as the bearing manufacturers. Press fit has been used everywhere for decades, it’s only when the bike industry got hold of it with it’s fists of ham and fingers of butter that it gained a notorious reputation. Threaded BB still has the actual bearing pressed into the cup, the difference being the cup has likely been manufactured to the correct bore diameter and tolerance assuming you buy a good quality part.
It looks like the bikes are cabon fibre frames. Is it ok to use such force to remove pf30 cups? Is there and chance of damaging the frame using your method?
I have a press fit BB and have had repeated issues with creaking, is this something that is common with a press fit style BB or is there another likely cause?
Pressfits can creak thats for sure. if the tolerances are loose it will almost always creak. There are bearing retaining compounds like our RC-1 that can help with that issue.
It is interesting. Mostly because the manufacturer does not know what material the bottom bracket is going to be. That and the potential for the tolerances to be too tight or too loose are high. Grease and other prep can make install much much easier for a tight interface and can take up space and silence a loose one. It also aids in install. Making it easier to install with less force and less potential for galling, rocking or other damage.
@@iwontreplybacklol7481 Yes dude I get it. I mean it requires a special tool after all right. With threaded BB you don't need that special tool but just a wrench, and who presses their BBs every day? So it's not that worth buying a special tool for press-fit BB.
@@steamedpiggy a tool to press out and press in a bottom bracket is like $50 nowadays. Threaded bb tools are in the $35 range. Not a make it or break thing to me. in the long run, press fit will outlast a threaded bb. Once the frame on a threaded starts to deform due to riding stresses, it will be nearly impossible to stop the creaking. Whereas in a press fit, one can use retaining compounds that harden and fill any gaps caused by the wear and tear of time and riding. Press fit BB ftw for me.
How to prepare surface in case of BB-MT800 press fit version and carbon frame without any metal shim in BB area (just carbon compound)? Originaly it was just clean, but when I did it clean also it is not completely noise free. Thanks for answer and nice video.
If you are having repeated noise issues id think that the interface is a little on the loose side and would go for the Adhesive primer and then Retaining compound. No more noise.
Hello, How to install a bottom bracket like sunrace BBS08? - the first cup can be pressed with a press, but then one has to insert the axle with bearings to the frame, which makes it impossible to use the press for the second cup. How to [then] remove the bottom bracket? - while one could put the bicycle on its side and punch in the second cup, how to then *remove* cups once they are installed? With threaded bottom brackets there would be a screw / cup to unscrew, but this is not the case with BBS08. Regards
Interesting BB. Looks like the only way is to use a drift and to drift it into place with a hammer. Then reverse the procedure to remove. Most repair bottom brackets like that thread together and do not press in like that.
I run a Shimano Ultregra 10 speed 6700 mechanical with Shimano Ultegra 50/34 crank and I believe BB. I need to replace BB. Should I upgrade parts to an 11 speed. I ride Bianchi 928 race carbon. BB bearings are external so I presume threaded - correct?
An upgrade is always fun but not always needed. We will leave it to you to make the call. The same bottom bracket can be used on 11 speed components as well. Yes, Threaded.
This video makes you want to get rid of the press and back to threaded. A while back I had threaded with hollowtech. Quite frankly was super smooth. I hope I don't have to replace my bb soon on my press because it will bum me out. Oh wait! I just got rid of my press BB bike. I totally forgot.
@@parktool It's an old Klein... I found out they have a unique setup with 35mm bearings pressed in around a square taper spindle. Similar to Gary Fisher, but no lock ring. There's a special Klein tool that fits around the spindle to remove and install it.
Phil wood still supports these older pressfits. They may be able to help you with bearings and a spindle if you need. Yes the Klein tool is special but this procedure can often be done without that tool. Reach out to Phil for more info on that.
Very helpful video, thank you.So, just to be clear, Park Tool HHP-3 and BBT-90.3 will remove and install a SRAM GXP press fit bottom bracket ? Regards, Florin
I did it with some all thread, nuts, and used the washers that came with the park tool removal bar, and it was challenging for sure but I did it. Next time I think I will buy there pressing tool.
Hi, it’s a great video. But a few questions remain unclear for me. First: is it always assumed that you always remove bottom bracket to replace it with a brand new one? Maybe you could only want to clean and reinstall the bottom bracket or replace only a damaged bearing. And that lead us to my second question: Second: don’t you never use (or have) a press tool to remove? Isn’t there any danger to damage bearings when striking it? Third: This is about different options of new bearings installation. I found a pair of bearings with only a minimal cup just to evolve the 42x30x7 bearing and hold it inside the 46mm shell so or doesn’t need an internal sleeve that I don’t really understand. Even you may wish to use a thread together bb. I mean that the only condition you must attend is your shell type and then options spread depending on your crank. Is it? Thanks in advance
my 2c: I would juice replace a PF BB with a new one, considering the relatively low cost, and the risk of damaging parts when attempting to re-use them
Yes of course, unless the bottom bracket is damaged (unlikely), it is better to just replace the bearings (giving you access to high quality bearings of your choice like NTN). And yes, using this method of removing a bearing damage it and you should't reuse it.
how well should a new bb spin? should the new bb have any noise? will it be tight cause its new then loosed up and spin more freely? i just installed a pf gxp bb and it seems tight and has light click noise, normal???
Crack open a beverage. Mandrels are for shaping. Arbor presses can press bearings. Arbor's can be walked through. A drift punch is for aligning bolt holes. Bearing drifts are for aligning bearings.
The squeaky bracket does get the attention, so it seems. There are a lot of press fit bikes out there and most do not squeak. But do they perform less? What "performance" do we want? It can be lighter. It does provide a large area to attach other tubes. But the bearings are pretty much the same.
@@parktool Do Press fit bottom brackets on mountain bikes Usually have dust seals or what keeps all of the dust and dirt out of there from getting to your bearings?
The BBT-90.3 driver is only for removal of bearing. The two drifts included with the tool set are used to press and install bearings but require a press such as the HHP-3.
@@parktool thank you for your answer. Correct me if I wrong, but these two drifts cannot be used for bearing installation on TREK bike with BB90 (because the bearing goes a little bit deeper into the frame than flanges can push before hitting the frame).
My friend has the scott spark 900 sl carbon 2013 model which was 9000€, his frame with press fit got enlarged and it squeaks like hell sometimes. Now i know that press fit frames are not meant to last, what a bogus and stupid technology
The bottom bracket hole could be repaired and brought back in tolerance. For the price of the bike, prob worth it depending on its condition. Honestly its easier to repair a worn out press fit than a worn out threaded!
It is very unlikely the bike would be ruined from having a press fit bb. There are now "thread together" bottom brackets in most all standards that work well. Nothing here to fear.
@Oliver T it’s only a risk if you follow the questionable practise of bashing bearings out with a hammer. I added a comment about bearing removal on here 3 weeks ago. You can find a cheap suitable puller for bike BB bearings online, a few guys with machine shops at home tend to make them in small numbers (usually engineers, and like me they are alarmed at the inappropriate used in bike servicing compared to the industry standards for bearings, bolted joints, interfaces etc).
@@simost2566 I’ve never heard of any other way? Is there a name for the tool youre referring to? How does it work? screw in from the opposite side causing the bearing to pop out?
@@NeutralGenericUser bearing pullers are conventionally used for press fit bearings in various applications (car wheel bearings being one). Bike versions are simple, they are usually an alloy or Delrin cup that sits against the face of the frame with a flat insert that goes behind the bearing. It uses a bolt or threaded stud so you can wind the bearing out of the frame, essentially the reverse of pressing it in with threaded screw press. I was going to get a couple Machined up then found them cheap online so it wasn’t worth bothering (pro bearing tools I got mine from). I put the bolt into the puller from inside the bb and used an extension with an Allen bit; that way the inner race of the bearing spins as you wind the puller in which is a really easy way to evenly slide a bearing out placing minimal load on the frame.
i got a question i recently bought a dirt jumper and it came with bmx cranks and a 28th sprocket how can i change it to a 3 piece mtb crank system with a pressed in bottom bracket?
Thats a tough one. I'll get back to you. You may be able to use a PF41 bottom bracket and some spacers to run a 2 piece MTB crank. I can say that you will not be able to run a threaded bottom bracket in your bike. But you may be able to run a pressfit bottom bracket that will allow you to use many MTB cranksets.
The RT-1 and the BBT-90.3 are both similiar designs. They are just intended to remove different sized races. Depending on the crank you are running in your BB86, you may need one or the other tool. Its a common misconception that the bottom bracket shell tells us what tool is required. Its more the spindle that will tell us what tool is going to be best.
Similar in concept, very different in fit. The RT-1 is much larger and will not fit the bottom brackets for the 22 or 24mm spindles. Use the RT-1 for larger spindle bottom brackets, such as DUB spindles in 28.99, or those with 30mm.
will it fit if i leave the old pressfit bb from my fsa gossamer crank when installing my new ultegra crank?if does not fit,what bottom bracket do i need to install my fc-r8000 crank?
Imagine a BB standard so laughable that to remove said BB you need to beat on the BB cup with a driving device and a hammer. Gotta believe the frame just loves that. And FYI, in this vid the PT guy was knocking out pressfit BB cups that had NOT been effectively glued into the BB shell with Loctite, which is the way most bike shops have to install these jokes due to the laughably poor frame tolerances. Go watch someone knock out PF BB cups that have actually been glued in with Loctite, and imagine that’s your multi thousand dollar CF frame being beaten on. LOL
Most common BB are NOT supposed to be glued nor greased before the fit. If adhesive has been used you need to pre-heat to 60°C or whatever temp indicated in the notice.
That's how I feel about presta valves. Especially when trying to get a tubeless tire seated with the presta airflow restrictor in near-full hindrance mode.
Nice video but this puts me off completly messing about with my bike or even buying a new one. There was a time when everything was compatible with everything.
