@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop that make since, probably because of all the heat over the years, I hear flatheads run hot anyways, probably a good idea to get a nice big electric fan
Lowhung Garage i agree with you on the fan, but I am trying to keep it as a traditional hotrod from the 50s, the idea is to make it like what a soldier returning from ww2 would build
Used to pry spring down remove c clip, then pry up valve assembly complete from valley not from under valve head or you can bend valve. Some guides will break every time.
I've never seen a flathead, let alone worked on one. But it looks like it would've helped to soak down everything with some degreaser or penetrating oil and suck the gunk out with a shop vac. That way you wouldn't have to fight with all the old grime to get ahold of the keepers
Right? I know cleaning that much filth out is a miserable task, but I wouldn't even consider disassembling a block I wanted to save in that mucky condition. Clean it, soak it with deep creep, and simply take it apart.
Thank you for your excellent videos. I am doing the same thing on a duplicate model engine. Going to get biblical on my springs tomorrow. Oh, also a happy Subscriber!
Hmmmm, 91A 9 = larger bore, ie, Mercury engine. 1 = 1941 is the last digit of the year that that the engine was made. That would also be the car model in most cases, so it would seem that either you have a 1942 Merc donor car, or the engine has been switched into your donor car at some time in the last 80 years. 99 = 1939 Merc, ... 09 = 1940, ... 19 =1941 etc. The 59 was the last version of this engine & was used in Ford & Merc post war models up until 1948. The 'C' prefix [C59A] would denote a Canadian block. Oh yeah, there was a tool that went under the partly opened valve to knock the valve guide down a little to allow the guide retainer clip to be removed. This clip sits into a recess in the block to prevent it from coming out when the engine was in service. Hope that helps.
Sometimes some of the shiny stuff on the outside is just junk. Used finned aluminum heads are often worthless. I know I ruined a set back in the day by planing too much off of them. It should turn over for one. Second. Pulling the heads and the pan off is no big deal. Then you can know for sure if it is a 4" crank and if there is anything broken.
I can see that you haven't rebuilt very many flatheads. The easy and correct way is to compress th spring downward at the top and then simply remove the valve guide keeper then you pull the valve the guide and spring out as one complete assembly. I remove all 16 valves in less than 15 minutes doing it this way this way.
They have a little more tension on them than what a magnet could pull, but also this engine was a stuck engine that has been sitting since the 50s, I cut the springs out completely and still couldn’t get the keepers off
2:38 interesting observation: The flathead valve springs are retained with the same exact sort of clip that the springs for my RC cars use. Those things are a bitch to pop off when there's only a couple pounds trying to hold them in! And no schmoo in the way! Also, that valley is a posterchild for 'change your %*^(ing oil'. Good lord that's a lot of sludge in there.
Nice video Zac. You are right, the struggle is real. So far I've removed 14 of the 16 valves in my 8BA. Two had bent valve shafts and I believe the remaining two are also bent. They are really stuck in the guides and don't want to pry upward. So I'm probably going to cut through the spring and the valve shaft. Any tips on that before I start cutting?
Sorry you’re having such a rough time George I know the feeling, my best advice when having to cut, would to be careful not to cut the block accidentally or the lifters as well, cut the spring up and down in two spots to get the spring out of the way then cut the valve stems off at the highest point possible, I used old cut off wheels I save for times like these (when they are ground down small) if you can hit or pry the valves up enough to get the head of it off I find that easier, because then you can get a deep well socket and hit the guides back down into the valley, try it both ways and see which one is easier for you and let me know how it goes!
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop Thank you for your reply. I thought I was really getting into the groove of getting these valves out and then this. The motor "was running when parked 10 years ago" so I expected some problems. Basically I've been using a valve spring compressor to compress the spring upward enough to remove the locks and the valve spring retainer. Then I'm able to pull the loose valve out. Then I'm using a socket to knock the valve guide down enough to pull the horseshoe retainer clip out easily. After that, I am using a K-D tools Valve Guide Puller to pull the valve guides out through the top of the block. But with these last two valves, nothing is working so far. I've been able to get the locks and retainers out, but the valve won't come out of the guide and the retainer clips are just bending but not coming out. I'll let things soak for another couple of days but will likely have to cut these out. Thanks and I'll keep you posted.
So I got them cut out today. My cutting tool is just a little too big to fit into the valley. I was able to get the valve up enough to safely cut the shaft topside. After that I just drove the guides back down into the valley. I'm happy to say all 16 valves are out. Thanks again for your help!
George Michael you actually pull the top clip out use carburetor cleaner to clean it a little bit work it up and down and the whole entire valve spring and all comes out the upper keeper is the only thing that holds it in and that's how you put it back in
I followed you on IG, I try to keep the Flathead oil filters simple, they are apart of the low pressure oil, almost like a side note, I use Wix 51006, with rotella 15w40 non detergent and use a Zinc additive, not much better than that 🤙🏼
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop just curious, why non detergent oil? Straight 30w detergent oil works well, and keeps all the sludge from forming. Keep the impurities in suspension in the oil, they'll drain right out after 3000 miles. The spin on filter adapter kit is a good way to go too, instead of using the messy canister style.
@@markk3652 oil is always a pretty hot topic, there is a lot of ways you can go with it, I say non detergent for the motors that you don’t know how long it’s been since rebuild, if it’s a fresh rebuild I have no problem with standard 30 weight 👍🏼
@@WiredCustomsSpeedShop okay, just wondered what your thoughts were about it. I’m planning on using full synthetic in mine once I get it on the road again.
I wouldn’t recommend putting the block in any kind of water based hot tank or soak before taking apart, if it’s a solvent based you could give it a go, I haven’t tried it before, I’ve soaked my stuff in kroil penetrating oil before
No struggle at all if you gave yourself the advantage of cleaning out the engine before attempting to do your own repairs on any mechanic device. Comon’ - common sense is a pre-requisite for any good mechanic. If you’re truly going to do a professional job, this motor needs the filth removed beforehand. Geesh, kids.
David I rebuild on average 7 Flatheads a year, this one was by far the worst one I’ve had to rebuild with stuck valves, stuck lifters and frozen guides, as soon as it’s apart it goes into a hot tank to be cleaned, also I am 30
