Incredible that I could not find such a good instruction video in my native language Dutch from bicycle land The Netherlands.. no-nonsense video, zoomed in so clear image. Thanks!
I just wanted to swing by and say thank you for making and posting all your bike repair videos! They're extraordinarily helpful, all the information is very straight forward and concise!
Love the abrupt ending very easy to follow along, just take the part off the part then put the other part in the part. Aside from the smug comment thanks for sharing knowledge man *smash dat like
Hahahahahaha. Everytime I've ordered a bike motor kit, probably four or five times, they've always come with thos tool. I've never known what it was for, and while organizing my tools day before yesterday I almost threw two of them out. Today while checking youtube to see how to remove the cranks I saw one with the built on handle and recognized the main part as you have in this video, realized after about six years, and finally know what it does and that it's what I needed. So glad I didn't throw them away. ( : D)
Thanks a lot ...Great video,.. I did the job myself and saved $40.. Paid $5 for the arm remover..:D Only thing i did wrong is i used Poly 1000 on the bolts and on the spindle, but it can bend the crank arms.. grease needed only on the tighten bolts..
Thanks for this, a very helpful video. I've been wondering how I'd replace my other half's 175mm cranks with something more appropriate for her short legs and this is a good start. Now I know I need some more tools as well as the cranks (which are kinda hard to find)
Today I had to use an angle grinder on the backside of the crankarms. On the backside I made some good and flat grooves and put my bearing extractor puller to work. Third crankset on at least 16 yo bike ridden in salty snow...
I don't know if I ever left you a thank-you-message RJ, but if not: t h a n k y o u. You know you're a life saver right? You're my goto-guy for my bike repairs. All the big projects, and the small ones, I couldn't have done them without you. I basically did almost everything there is to do on my bike, I think. From replacing v-brakes to disc brakes, truing a wheel, you name it: got them done thanks to your video's. Keep up the good work.
I had a cheap puller wreck threads in arm and wrecked threads on the actual tool, crank i was trying to remove was steel and it was corroded onto the axle maybe if i had let it soak with penetrating oil for a while i might have saved the crank.
My left crank arm bolt keeps unscrewing off when cycling? I’ve screw it in tight with 14mm wrench like in video. Should I use blue lock on the nut thread ?
I nearly snapped the threading of the crank following your instructions step by step because you did not bother mentioning there might be an adapter on the crank puller end that should be removed for a square tapered spindle.
maybe it is fine or do i need a longer axle, like 116 mm.? the recommended 68-113..but it doesn't go all the way in till the axle end.. please let me know what is your experience.. thanks a lot.. Kevin
If the bolt or whatever is left-hand threaded, I always point that out. Otherwise assume it is normal right-hand threaded and will be removed by turning it counter-clockwise and tightened by turning it clockwise.
Thanks for this! Question: I removed the crankset, installed new bottom Bracket. Reinstalling crankset seems an issue. I have more space than I can remember between the I side of both crank arms and the frame. I can actually see that spindle from the bottom Bracket. Am I missing a piece?? (and I'm pretty sure the BB is the correct size). Any advice?
@@RJTheBikeGuy RJ The Bike Guy Sheldon Brown is always great for in depth info. I'm pretty sure I'm out of my depth here. Even though the code on the BB I replaced is not the same as the new BB I installed, the only similar BBs I could find online is the standard Shimano UN55. Even though the BB sits snugly in the frame and all seems well, I'm gonna check with my local bs.
@@inferno4001 UN55 is just the model. They come in different sizes. Size includes bottom bracket shell size (usually 68mm or 70mm) and spindle length. Notice the dropdown here: www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005DTIG9U/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
i also had this issue when i change my 3x crankset to a 1x crankset a different type of square taper. but i tightened it already. will it damage my crank after?
Hi RJ I’ve been watching ur videos for past few months and I tried doing this exact same method the other day with a crank tool and the crank handle tool and for some reason I really don’t no what the boys in Halfords have for there breakfast cause I tried for the life of me to remove it without no reward have u anymore tips what to try...maybe if I had a mtb work stand it could have been easier or maybe not, I’m just in the process of buying tools at the minute and really wanted to change my front cassette! Help 😂
hi.. one thing is not clear to me.. the actual axle length is shorter..the crank arm doesn't go all the way till the axle end..i have like a 2 mm extra space to go all the way.. In other words the axle is shorter than the crank arm inside length, it doesn't go all the way in... Is it normal ?
RJ The Bike Guy first off let me tell you how much you inspired me to start working on bikes. I'm serious I just broke both my arms in a mtb accident and now I have plenty of time to learn how to fix them. This is going to be my new passion and you are the man behind it. Also thanks for the super fast response, yes I'm putting it in the correct way. I wish you could message me your number so I could show you photos. I'm not some crazy stalker and would never give your number out. You are a bike working god brother lol.
I want to replace the Shimano Hollowtech II drive side crank arm to shorter length. Is it possible to tear the drive side crank arm apart from the chainring?
You can remove the chain rings from the crank set. You can't just remove the arm from it. You wan to replace just the one side with a shorter one? They are generally the same length on both sides. You can buy a new crank set with shorter arms.
nope.. the arm goes all the way in on the driver side only, but on both sides the axle could be 1.5 mm longer to fully cover the crank arm hole.. maybe i should show you on a video..it is hard to explain..
Any advise for people that found out that the previous owner cross threaded that part of the crank and there is not enough thread left to thread on the crank puller? I don't wanna ruin the vintage Sugino Crank that I have just yet... If it's not already the case... I can't service my bottom bracket...
I made this video on how the repair existing threads: How To Repair Damaged Crank Arm Threads But if there are no threads to fix, then that won't work...
No! Put nothing on the axle. In fact make sure it is clean and dry. You an even use some solvent to make sure there is no grease on the axle or in the crank openings. The cranks are pressed on and held by friction.
I just pulled the cranks off my bike for the first time...it shouldn't be super difficult. MAKE SURE THE END OF THE CRANK PULLER IS SMALLER THAN THE SQUARE OPENING. I had a cheap nashbar kit - there was a removable dome on the puller tool, and it only worked with that removed. Otherwise, you're just going to deform the lip of the taper.
Thanks for the correction! I should've been more specific. Thanks a lot for the videos too - I tore my bike completely apart and got it back together this weekend, thanks to you!
Bike friend, one of my crank arms is damaged and needs to be replaced, can i salvage them from any other bike or will it be a pain to find the one my bike need?
What do you mean by reassemble the crank? Other than what I did in the video? They are a standard size with rare exceptions of a couple older cranksets (Stronglight and TA).
I have no clue what you are asking? I remove and install the crank in this video. If you want to install a new one, just install it the same way? Did you watch the video?
I have a cheap thruster fixed bike I got at Walmart. Well the cross threaded the pedal and the left crank arm is stripped. Cannibalism buy just the one side and do you have any idea what size I would need? Are they pretty standard?
Chris McQuade Crank arms come in different lengths. 170-175mm are common lengths on adult bikes. If you take the crank arm to a bike shop, they might be able to drill out the pedal threads and install a bushing insert thing with new threads.
I tried this on an old road bike and just destroyed the aluminum threads, guess the crank arm was stuck too hard. What should i do now? Quit and give up?
Either the threads were damaged, the tool was not screwed in far enough, the tool didn't fit properly, or some other reason. Next step: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrpIoXxVyTs.html
Thanks for the video. I've just tried to remove the pedal arm from my bike, without success! The trouble is that the inner plunger of the extractor tool is NOT pushing against the end of the bottom bracket, ITS BEING FORCED INTO THE HOLE THAT THE BOLT CAME OUT OF! Since the end of the bottom bracket is square, why on earth isn't the end of the plunger square?? And why, when you do it, don't you have the same problem? From what I could see of it, your extractor also has a circular plunger that is only slightly bigger than the bolt hole. Just how much of the plunger is pressing on the end of the bottom bracket? Because, it cant be much. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Take care.
I really recommend you buy/use a proper crank puller tool which can be found on ebay for like $5. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jrpIoXxVyTs.html
RJ I have a Salsa Voodoo MTB which has the self-removing type of crank arms. I have successfully removed the non drive side arm, but the drive side will not budge. Everything I see on youtube says that it should just fall right out with a little pressure or at most whacking it with a mallet (which I have done) but nothing. Am I doing something wrong? Is the spindle of this arm stuck in the BB? If so is there some trick to getting it loose? Please help me. Thanks in advance.
Done. When ever you have a chance to take a look I'd greatly appreciate your feedback as I have had no luck finding information on this problem online.
I had a situTion where I could not get square taper crank to pull off. The threads were good, and I had the Park puller, but it just would not budge. I tried penetrating oil and time, letting it sit with the puller tightened, but that did not work. Finally, I realized I had to let my chemistry knowledge work. Aluminum, the crank, has higher thermal expansion than steel, the axle. I tightened the puller, then boiled a big tea kettle of water. Poured the hot water over the hub area of the crank and turned the puller. Off it came!
My pedal came off and while trying to put it back on, I totally ruined the threads for both the crank and the pedal. I wish there was something I could put into the crank just so that I could carry on with the bike.
thanks for the prompt reply. i took it to one and he goes it will cost u 90 pounds altogether. i bought the bike for that much. but when u say "drill it out" what exactly r u referring to?
For 90 pounds, you might be able to buy a new crank set. What I meant was they can drill out the hole where the pedal screws into with a larger hole. They tap threads into that hole. They screw in a metal insert into that has a smaller hole threaded for the pedal.
I readjusted the tip and BOOM! out came the cranks. Thank you! Now all I need is a new crank set because I tried re-threading before taking the crankset off, thus threading unevenly. But awesome, easy-to-find tutorial you shared here.
Got a thread repair kit, specifically the helicoil thread repair kit; it comes with a tap and several metal coils. Picked up a tap handle for the tap that came with the kit; tapped the stripped threads where the pedal goes. I didn't stabilize the crank-set, so when I was tapping I tore more metal than I should have. I went through 3 different tap handles. The Park Tool tap handle for 8-9/16 taps didn't fit the 9/16 tap that came with the kit. A local bike shop told me they experienced the same thing, to which they directed me to a hardware store. I didn't find that out until after I ordered and received a second Park Tool tap handle, as the 1st one had been stolen; the package was found torn open with only the order form inside.
I usually just go at it with a hammer from the other side. A little persuasion and they come off. I guess I should just spend the 10 bucks and get the tool off ebay.
