This video is exceptional; I gained more information about the ford 2 valve cam setup from this video than I've been able to find anywhere else on the internet. This guy is a heck of an engineer too with the rocker tool he designed.
Excellent video! It really helped me understand the whole process and you did a great job of explaining the problem with popping them in and out with a screwdriver. You have a talent for making concepts easy to understand. I would like to see more videos from you.
You're the man! I recently broke a valve spring and was dreading pulling the cam. I'm going to tackle it this weekend thanks for the awesome tip. Youve gained a new follower.
This was very helpful. I like the fact the you give so much detail and it is easy to follow. Detail is very important because you leave no room for error. I now feel more confident in replacing all 24 of my car rocker arms. I think it’s brilliant that you built your own tool. I would if I could. But I’m actually about to go online and buy my own tool similar to your. I guess there is something online. Thanks so much.
Ford recommends a valve spring spacer tool to prevent you from over-compressing the spring. T91P-6565-AH is the part number. I think that it's designed to keep you from compressing so far that you damage the valve stem seal, or push the valve into the piston. It looks like you can get by without it, as long as you don't go full 900lb gorilla when you're compressing the valve.
I would think the valve spring spacer tool, would only make it more likely to over compress the spring. I am not aware of that tool, but I am sure their are countless speciality tools that I have never heard of. However over compressing the spring is not really an issue or a concern, since you only need to compress the valve just enough to remove the rocker arm.. furthermore since you will be removing the rocker arms when they are in contact with the lowest point on the lobe the amount you have depress the valve is minimized. Hence it would seem to me the reason ford recommends that tool is too adress the same concern I had. When you are using a regular valve spring compressor there is a risk that the keepers could fall out. My tool sits on top of the keepers, so that can't happen. Perhaps the valve spring spacer does so as well.
Excellent video......very thourgh and consice spoken slowly and clear. Video also work is superb so many guys have the camera flicking and jumping around its un watchable. Just now working on my night-mare Triton 3V in my F150. Watched all the vids and just can't believe how ridiculous the recomended valve tool is for just removing the roller rockers. As you said its more suited to replace seals and springs. It a 3V I'd die of nervous exhaustion before I got all 24 out and then back in. I'm looking at thinking why not a simple leverage tool? Then this morning I find your video. So many thanks I can fab a tool this morning....better than spending hours laying on top of that demon in my truck.
Top dead center on his engine the keyway on the crank is at 11:00, if you move the key way to 12:00 all of the Pistons are below the head deck therefore you do not have to worry about bending a lifter against a piston when you put them in....
This tool is available on Amazon for 20 bucks, and there's no reason to not get it! I don't don't know for sure if I need to replace these parts but I got the tool first in case I find that out
If you take a small wood block and stick in the back side then you can take a screw driver and pry between the block of wood and the roller and pop it on. Did mine all sixteen in about twenty five minutes. But you do have a good point and thanks for the video. I just could not afford the tool.
Warning to help avoid the number one issue I found with these heads which is blown spark plugs. First let engine completely cool down before removing spark plugs use a ratchet not an impact. When reinstalling spark plugs put anti-seize on the threads and torque to 11 to 12 lb no more no less this will give you the best odds of retaining the spark plug in the head. I have installed at least 50 solid thread inserts to address spark plugs blowing out of the head and taking a coil pack with it. Most of this work came straight from the dealership because they're only solution was to sell you a new cylinder head along with the labor to install it. I have yet to hear Ford take care of a single customer with this issue. I heard of a class action lawsuit years ago not sure what became of it but Ford refuses to acknowledge it's a design issue despite them releasing a new P. I. "Power improved" casting that has like 2 more threads for the spark plug. They redesigned the combustion chamber as well as the valves themselves but I've seen the spark plug issue on the new castings as well! NOTE the 3 valve head has the opposite problem. The bottom portion of the plug gets stuck from carbon build up and breaks leaving the portion below the hex in the head. You can rent the extraction kit for the broken spark plugs from AutoZone I believe. You have to thread tap the inside of the spark plug, screw in the threaded tool and extract it using a sleeve and nut method. Ive repaired both the 2v and 3v in the vehicle not fun but can usually be done by just removing the air cleaner. Plugs back by the brake booster the worst but can be done.
Why on earth would you only torque the plugs to 11 or 12 pounds if ford calls for 18ft pounds and that's what caused the issue of blowing the sparkplug out.? I owned a 99 F-150 4x4 5.4 liter with a Windsor plant engine and I never had a plug shoot out of its hole! I would say that I removed the sparkplugs no less than five times during the time I owned the truck and never had that issue! I never torqued the plugs to check the amount of pressure I used but I would guess about 28-30ft pounds of torque, although I did snap one of 7mm bolts that hold the coil down so I just put a wine bottle cork on top of the coil and wedged it under the fuel rail and never experienced any problems! And using anti seize is not a good idea from what I have heard because it will short across it because of the metal in it. And if you ask me, I would have to say that the trucks made in Canada were probably better built then the ones made in USA! Home of the hang belly worker who could give two shits whether or not the plugs or any other parts were coming off the engine as soon as it got to the end of the assembly line! 😉
on my 07 mustang with 45K miles i sprayed deep creep into the spark plug hole and let it sit about an hour and then took out each spark plug one by one by hand with a ratchet moving it back and forth until it finally came out,,,replaced all the 2 piece design plugs with the new 1 piece design and didnt break one...obviously the more miles you have on the plugs the harder the carbon build up,,so if you have a ton of miles let the deep creep soak over night might help.Also i only hand tighten the new ones in with anti sieze because i didnt have a torgue wrench,,,5K miles so far with no issues
you do a killer job on this. interesting @10:15 thru 10:20-:21 you just forgot wtf you were doing......I find myself wondering wtf im doing, usually after meds. just making an observation. i like the information you shared.
A heads up should somebody need an align bore and want to onvest in the equipment durabond sells standard cutters as well as oversized along with bearing half shells. You have to hand file the Babbitt flanges in the head and cap. They make a jig for end milling the flanges but doesn't work well. It's easier to place the bearing in and scribe where the flange is then hand file to fit. These engines 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L will often get a stuck lifter(in this case a hydraulic valve lash compensator) that will cause a tick in the top end. If I'm removing the followers I always pull the lifters soak them in carburetor cleaner overnight then bleed them in a vise half to three quarters of the full travel. Then I soak them in marvel mystery oil before reinstalling them. With the lifter slightly bled the followers easily pop in by hand.
Awesome Fab work brother. By the way, I have to say, I don't know if anyone else noticed but you sound almost exactly like Detective Columbo and thats freakin cool LOL😎👍👍
Thank You very much! I'm gonna make me one to replace my rocker arms because i got 130.000 miles on my ford f150 I'm sure could use new one's. Thanks again👍👌
You mentioned in the video needing 2 cam holding tools when setting the timing. and that is because the spring pressure exerted on the cam timing gears wants to keep the gears moving and never staying still. You can avoid not buying the cam holding tools simply by not installing the rocker arms until after the timing gears and chains are set .. without the pressure of the springs exerted onto the cam via the rocker arms all of the valves are closed during timing procedure and after verification timing is set simply install all the rocker arms .. extra effort sure but less money spent on tools you will possibly only ever use 1 time.
You made a tool out of necessity the fact that your tool you forgot to make room to remove the keepers ? make another or buy one stop pushing that maybe you did it that way on purpose when in reality you did not know it was an issue until you tried to remove the keepers to change the springs and encountered an oh fuck moment
Sorry for the misunderstanding, but I never changed the springs, and if I had needed to change the springs, I would have made two interchangeable feet for the tool: One that sat on top of the keepers (For removing/installing the rocker arms) And one was notched to sit only on the spring retainer (for removing the keepers). I made the tool for the sole purpose of installing/removing the rocker arms, and I purposely made the foot so it would prevent the keepers from accidently falling out, because I know that is an issue. I didn't bother to make another foot that would allow access to the keepers, because I had no need to remove the keepers at the time. However, if I ever need to remove the keepers in the future, I will do pretty much what you said "make another one or buy one" I believe I said the same thing in the video, but I explained I would only need to make another foot that allowed access to remove the keepers.
good video my brother ,,i got 2004 maruader 112,000 miles on it..eventually im gonna have do my engine it has that rattle sound only when u frist start it up for about few seconds then it goes away..maybe timming chain tensioner latting the chain slap to the oil fill them or hydraullio cylinder in the tensionerare alittle worn
Judging from the symptoms you describe I agree the problem is probably in your hydraulic timing chain tensioners. The tensioners do not have a check valve. The check valve is in the oil filter, so the first thing you should do is replace your oil filter. If this solves your problem great, if not pay attention that the rattle does indeed go away after a few seconds. If the rattle lasts for consecutively longer durations, it will call for immediate action. The action you should take is to confirm that the rattle is coming from the timing chain. You can do this by holding a 1/4" id hose near your ear and placing the other end on the valve covers and timing chain covers. if the noise is more pronounced at the timing chain covers it is the tensioners. if the noise is more pronounced at the valve covers it is valve train issues (most likely bad lifters/followers) both things are bad but defective tensioners are worse, because they can lead to catastrophic failure. The timing chain guides are only plastic without any steel backing. excessive periods of timing chain slap will cause them to break especially since at around 60,000 miles they become brittle (and your engine is way beyond that mark). If the timing chain guides break the pieces are likely to clog the oil pickup tube and cause oil starvation and bearing failure or the chain might skip a few teeth on the sprockets causing bent valves and/or chain breakage. All that said once you have determined you have defective tensioners you should replace them immediately and make sure you determine the root cause, (which in many cases is simply a neglected oil filter) Bear in mind the damage to timing chain guides from timing chain slack is cumulative, so timing chain slap should be corrected immediately whenever it becomes apparent, and often is as simple as changing the oil filter. The best preventative measure against timing chain slap is to change your oil filter regularly and pay attention immediately after changing a filter (in the case of a new filter with a defective check valve).
Also hes right about the bearing caps. My caps are scored up and have to replace a cam and the machine shop told me to get a new head they wont even machine them for the bearing kits
Hello, I found you while researching my engine . I was told the tapping noises I'm hearing is exactly what you're changing . My question, can you tell which one is causing the noise visually or some other way ? Sorry, I'm a carpenter lol . But I like to learn and fix what I can (with help from a back yard mechanic friend ) . 2003 f150 V8 4.6L 343,600 miles. No engine lights on . No overheating. Oil pressure good . I have noticed a slight loss of power on gradual inclines mostly at about 25-35mph ,assuming 2nd gear, roughly 1500-2000 rpm . Thanks for the video!
If you are not sure which head the sunken lifter/cam follower is in, you can use a mechanics stethoscope, or a length of 3/8" ID tubing; hold one end at your ear and glide the other end along the valve cover, when the end of the tubing/stethoscope is closest to the noisy lifter the tapping should be the loudest. When you take the valve cover off it will be quite easy to tell which lifter is bad. simply look for a lifter that is not making contact with the base of the cam lobe (when the highest point of the lobe is pointing straight up)
Torquing down isn't a problem. Yes the springs will make the torque number higher until the caps seat, after that the spring is no longer in the equation in terms of what torque you measure on the fastener. As long as the torque needed on the fastener isn't reached before the cap seats then you're fine. Knowing that the cap is seated is done by experience and feel, which I'm sure you have.
The springs don't drop out of the equation when the mating surfaces meet. In actuality according to hooks law, the force they exert increases as they are compressed. I suppose you could accurately torque the the cam down with the lifters in place, if you ran the bolts down with a torque wrench and noted the torque of each set of bolts on each journal cap just before the mating surfaces came in to contact. You would then take the torque you noted (minus the coefficient of free running torque) and add it to the factory specified torque for that particular set of bolts on that particular journal cap. All that said, in a way you may be right, the truth is that a threaded fastener has a significant mechanical advantage and the clamping force imparted by tightening a bolt is far greater than the torque required to turn it. Hence the tension of the springs might be negligible, but that would become evident if you followed the procedure I just described. However, without any conjecturing, or tedious torque checks, the fastest way to accurately torque the camshaft journal caps, is to do so without the cam followers installed.
@@robertbabich1154 yes that is what I'm describing. You'll find that with the springs in place the torque ramps up until the surfaces meet, without the springs in place the torque is nearly zero until the surfaces meet. Once the surfaces meet the torque in both scenarios will be equal. As long as your final torque is higher than the torque needed to compress the springs then the final torque reading will be accurate. That is why the method is acceptable by the cam manufacturers. 👍
@@seijirou302 Just rotate the cam around and keep checking torque on all the cam caps until you make a complete revolution. At one point in a full rotation the final torque will override the adjacent pressure on cam lobe.
Lol I do not endorse this but I’m gonna use the screwdriver method good video you explain stuff great watched as I did the cam and rocker arms on my 4.6
Hello again Robert my new friend! You really have done a good thing here pal. I truly mean that. Just to be clear about one thing before I start my car, when replacing any lifters it's simply just lifting up and out the bad one(s) and dropping in the new, right? And the keeper is on the spring side, correct? I know I have alot to learn but you have given me confidence. God Bless you man.
its not that simple cuz he said u have to be at top dead center becaase it is an interence engine meaning u could bent or drop a valve if u drop a valve ya short cut just been cut short everything has to be torn down
Awesome video and explanation of what to do and not to do on these 2v motors. So would the only way to get proper torque across the camshaft plates be by having all the rocker arms out of the heads when you torque them?
Actually, I think I more or less said that in the video, but I was wrong. I was only considering the torque, and not the clamping force achieved by the torque. The threads of a bolt are basically a spiral lever, so a few pounds of applied torque will be magnified to a few hundred pounds of clamping force. The clamping force achieved by even the modest torque of the camshaft bearing bolts is so great in comparison to the counterforce of the valve springs that it will render the counter force of the springs insignificant. All that to say you can get accurate torque on the cam bearing caps with or without the rocker arms installed. The only drawback to having the rocker arms preinstalled, is that you will have to gradually tighten the bolts in a cross-torque pattern to keep the camshaft from flexing due to the uneven force of the valve springs.
Hey Robert, excellent video!! Can you send me a link to the valve spring tool? Or make me one? I’ve been looking at these tools and can’t find one that goes over the keepers as well as the spring. I’m afraid that if I get one for just the spring it’ll possibly cause an issue and I could drop a valve into the cylinder. Is this possible? Please give me your input. Thank You!!
sir I Installed the spring compressed it and put the keepers back on and lifter but now when I go to installed the rocker it just sit there on top of the spring and lifter there’s nothing keeping it place ? Am I suppose to adjust the rocker by spinning the cams I did spin the cams and at one point the rocker arm looked snug has I kept spinning the rocker got loose again? How am suppose to get my rocker arm adjusted into her
Sir what if my spring broke .. I looked into my valve cover and rocker and spring were off cylinder 1 how do I install the spring and then my rocker arm would I have to buy that tool?
I've got the 4.6L in my '01 Crown Victoria. Can a bad valve lash adjuster (lifter) cause a burnt valve? I've got low cylinder pressure on #8, 90psi instead of 140psi (other cylinders) and a miss at low rpm. I'm wondering if possibly that excessive valve lash can cause a valve to "float" and not allow the valve to open and close properly and burn it. I may be wrong.
You put the screw driver in between the spring and pull it up to lock it in place with out scratching the cam lobe its harder on a mustang a 4.6 crown vic its easier
Thank you for the info it’s truly saving me Im having the same issues but one of mines is a 3v 05 gt is the tool different for my year when I looked online it said till 2004 is there another route to obtain the tool outside of making one ??
The tool would have to be different than the one for a 2V engine, because the lobes would have to be thinner in order to get the extra valve in the same size head. If you type "2005 mustang GT 4.6 3V valve spring compressor" in Google, you should find vendors that sell the tool online. I would recommend Summit Racing, as they have the tool you need at a reasonable price with quick shipping and are far more reliable than eBay.
Yes, you can, however the bearing cap clusters get in the way. The workaround for this is to: 1) Remove all the rocker arms. 2) rotate the engine so both lobes of the cam are pointing up on the cylinder you will be working on. 3) Remove the bearing cap cluster that's in the way (leave the other one on) 4) Install a mock single bearing cap on the journal closest to the cylinder you're working on. 5) replace the seals for the intake and exhaust valves of that cylinder. 6) remove the mock single bearing cap. 7) Rotatate the engine so the next cylinder you will be working on is at TDC (both lobes of the cam pointing up) 8) Reinstall the mock bearing cap and repeat steps 5 through 8 until all valve seals have been replaced on the cylinders that were blocked by the bearing cap cluster. 9) reinstall the bearing cap cluster 10) repeat steps 1 through 9 for the other bearing cap cluster. Note: You can make up a mock single journal bearing cap out of hardwood (it doesn't have to be anything fancy, just a strip of oak the width of the journal with 2 holes spaced to match the bearing cap holes). Secondary note: You can do the job without a mock bearing cap, and you probably won't bend the cams, but the keyword here is PROBABLY.
Robert do you know if i'd be ok using this tool for a 4.6 DOHC Ford? I purchased the oemtools 24434 tool thats very similar to yours but it has a different angle to what the websites and other images show. the part number is stamped correctly on the tool but it may have been re-designed or something? I don't know but i'm gonna try regardless. Thank you man.
I like how he called them both lifters and lash adjusters and cam followers or rocker arms bevause i just ordered 24 lash adjusters and 24 cam followers for my 5.4 3 valve and the idiots at Ford looked at me like I had 3 eyes when I called them that even though that is the technical term and I get the ford oem parts and they say lifters and rocker arms. Like wow even ford parts department don't know what to call them in the correct terminology
Thanks for watching the video, Removing and replacing the Rocker Arms is fairly easy. As I stated and demonstrated in the video, it's even easy to do with just a screwdriver, it's just easier (and you avoid any chance of bending the valve stems) if you use a valve spring compressor. The hard part of the job is accessing the rocker arms. To access the rocker arms, you obviously need to remove the valve covers and that entails removing all the plumbing, cables and wiring that are mounted to them or in the way. Additionally, when you reinstall the valve covers, you will need to thoroughly clean the mating surfaces for the valve covers and apply silicone RTV at the mating joints between the cylinder heads and timing chain cover and replace the gaskets with new, to insure no oil leaks.
P0700 indicates a fault in your transaxle, so it is not directly related to emissions. However most states will atomatically fail a car if your check engine light is on due to any code.
As I have said a P0700 code indicates a fault in your transmission. However it does not indicate what the specific problem is in your transmission. Usually a P0700 code is followed by another code that is more targeted. If you only have a P0700 code it is likely to be something minor like that the tyranny is low in fluid or the sensor is bad. That being said if all that is wrong with your car is that it has a p0700 code stored in the ECM and there are no other codes and your check engine light is off and your car has no other issues it will pass the test in any state.
Hmm, if you are referring to the specific Valve spring compressor I used in this video, you will not be able to find it anywhere online or anywhere else for that matter, except for in this video since I fabricated it myself (as I stated in this video). However, if you are looking for a Valve spring compressor that is specifically designed to work with a Ford 4.6 L 2V modular engine here is a link from Amazon: www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24434-Valve-Spring-Compressor/dp/B015NIQOXK?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Note you can find valve spring compressors for less than 1/2 the price of this one on Amazon and elsewhere and they should be adequate to do the job, Just be sure that it is designed for a Ford 4-6L 2V modular Engine and is made of steel (not just metal) the reason I selected the OEM Tools brand is because it meets all that criteria and OEM tool is a somewhat reputable manufacturer of specialty automotive tools.
It looks like the opening width on the foot is too wide compared to yours. Don’t want the keys, etc and possibly valve to drop. Any thoughts? Thank you for a great video.
Even if you meant to offend, I wouldn't be offended. I realize I can't please everyone. What you deem to be B.S others may view as helpful details. Fortunately for you, I am sure I am not the only guy who has a made a video on this topic, so there is a good chance you can find another video that is more to your liking.