HOW TO REMOVE & REPLACE FLEXPLATE AND REAR MAIN SEAL 5.7L HEMI

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Quick how to on removing the flex plate off a 5.7l hemi and installing a new rear main seal with retainer. Hopefully this walk through help sheds some light on how to do it your self as well as clean up screws, block and parts. Changing the rear main seal and flex plate is easy when done out side of the vehicle.

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27 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 25

@roadrash8334 2 года назад

man im so thankful for you. im doing a rebuild on a 06 5.7l hemi and im going to just do what you did step by step. when i use you videos i have to do such little research and book work to do these builds. on my third dodge motor that im building. just did a dakota and a 1500 from second and third gen. has been a ton of fun but hours of researchh insued to make sure i was doing everything exactly the right way. so now im doing the chrger and i found your channel and im stoked. pulled heads the valves dropped. few pistons need swappewd out. going to do ther same things you did with the 6.4 conversion and mds delete. pullibg the motor with a buddy as we speak. going to be a late night tonight. i u se your video on a steo by step play pause basis haha!

@ghostlyrich 2 года назад

Oh man had more than a few of those nights myself, good luck and have fun lol just sort your bolts well and label containers haha.

@paulcini6084 6 месяцев назад

This is the worst info to follow.....

@TristynRusselo Год назад

The white plastic piece that comes in the seal is an alignment tool. DO NOT REMOVE THE PLASTIC. you let the crank push the plastic out of the seal. this prevents the inner seal from folding over.

@ellanorberg5555 Год назад

What part needs to be greased? I’m doing my first trans swap and decided to replace the rear main seal at the same time. Any advice would be great!

@TristynRusselo Год назад

@@ellanorberg5555 no grease. my mistake.

@TristynRusselo Год назад

@@ellanorberg5555 this is a good vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-STTajd3BV9Q.html

@christopherwells4253 11 месяцев назад

@@TristynRusselo LoL I Vaseline the p!ss out of all the rubber things that slide before I slap it on. Figured it works great for hydraulics, why not other movey thingies?! (Sorry for using so much "technical speak")

@casualobserver620 2 года назад

Removing the crankshaft bolts that secure the flex-plate......IMPACT GUN......AND DONE

@ricardocorsa9077 Год назад

What would the easiest procedure? Dropping the transmission or taking the motor out? Thanks great video ,specially all the cleaning

@DL101ca Год назад

Do you have a lift ? Taking tranny out is easier. No lift ? Use a crane and take motor out. Obviously tranny would be the fastest route as there's less to disassemble and unplug, but you need bottom access and a tranny jack.

@PengGarage 5 месяцев назад

Thank you for the great video. What year was the engine from?

@ghostlyrich 5 месяцев назад

2014 hemi

@bobbyyoung2831 Год назад

Curius...why did you replace the flywheel??

@ghostlyrich Год назад

Was attaching to a different transmission as i shoved this engine in a jeep wrangler :)

@mitchjackson7814 Год назад

You forgot gasket maker

@beebacheeba Год назад

Yup I seal everything that way as well. I have learned by experience that using it as a dressing is the ONLY way to truly seal anything or minor leaks will ALWAYS start up down the road.

@ghostlyrich Год назад

I was dropping the oil pan thats why i mentioned to do it but did not apply it myself :)

@ghernandez2097 2 года назад

I just bought a 2012 srt8 Chrysler and my rear main seal cracked and leaked all my oil and my exhaust and engine started smoking and my engine got a light ticking sound only drove it like 4 hours tops you think it’s worth even trying to get them to fix it

@ghostlyrich 2 года назад

I would. If the motor is still turning over I would redo rear main, drop oil pan and inspect and clean up all residue then replace oil pan gasket. If everything looks good there the ticking is probably your lifters since they were run dry there’s a chance once the oil gets in them the ticking stops but more than likely you would need replace lifters. Need to replace head gasket well your in there. The cam should be fine as long as you haven’t run it for to long with the tick. ( the tick is a bearing in the lifter that’s gone and the blown bearing can wear the cam lobe) Basically your looking a minor engine rebuild, you should be able to do it with the engine still in the

@beebacheeba Год назад

Sometimes the tick is burned oil reducing flow significantly enough to semi starve lifters and such. Just do the repairs that are required and then focus on detergents and thinning agents to clean the engine. Don't use any additive that thickens, those can make a healthy engine tick.

@paulcini6084 6 месяцев назад

Everything about this ...... basically whatever he did don't do. And then you should do a gew more things he didnt do.... wow you tube sucks

@ghostlyrich 6 месяцев назад

Works fine, no leaks. I tried swapping out the flex plate without an impact I figured most people in their garage wouldn’t have one, but I should’ve just done it with the impact but other than that motor is working fine without leaks.. everyone has their own tricks and way of doing things. This is of course just one way to get the job done.

@paulcini6084 6 месяцев назад

@ghostlyrich I'm not trying to knock you down you did fine. But for teaching someone else you should be trying to give them alittle more ...like maybe read the instructions for your rear main seal... haha you absolutely need oil resistant rtv in the corners. Sorry to say but I'd give it a year and your gonna start leaking from that point exactly. Also not using the alignment cup not a deal breaker but if your gonna teach probably should ..it came with it ...for free haha. But all in all your not dumb you have a good understanding of what your doing just need rhe finer points