I'm about to need to do the same thing on a 2000 Chevy Express 1500 with a 5.7l. Do you have a step by step video that shows the process from start to finish? What all do I need to remove to slide the transmission back?
wish he woulda answered this. I think mine went on my 2001 express 5.7. what did it sound like when it went? Mine sounds like a bunch of tocks in a tin can
I have a 91 f150 4x4 with a 4.9l mated to a e40d transmission. Gears grind sometimes when starting so I decided to take a look and unfortunately both my starter and flex plate are mangled up, after 30 years of abuse it appears I will have to replace both. I don't really want to go to a mechanic because I don't trust them and I know it will be expensive. So I am going to attempt this on my own. My HOPE is that I can slide the transmission back just enough to change the flex plate without having to remove the cross member and lowering the whole transmission. WISH ME LUCK.
Remember remove the drive line and carefully make sure to not let the u joint come apart. Use tape to hold it together. And use the cross member on the back of the transmission to hold it up remove the two lower bolts first and the starter all the way out. Put the longer bolts in the bottom then remove the top bolts on the bell housing. You will need like 4 feet of 1/2 drive extensions with a wobbly socket. I think your truck will need the exhaust out as well.
Hello @Mr. Aldrich this work on a 400 cu in that i have on my Blazer K5 1979? Have flexplate gear wear so the starter spins without engaging.... Did you have to dislocate the transmision to do this? Help!
Read all my comments. There is some more explanation. To the process. Take one bolt out at a time and put in some 6-8 bolts in there place in the bell housing at first then just unbolt everything and support the back and slide. You'll get it.
O'reilly auto parts. And it would work on a Isuzu rodeo. Just un bolt both drive shafts. If it 4wd. It might be harder to push back If I remember a Isuzu rodeo dose not have a lot of room and if it's a stick you will have to pull the gear selector out make sure you line the metal rods in the hole back up when putting the stick back in.
Yes. And I used 6" long bolts in the bell housing. Take the u-joint out and secure it with tape. Drop the carrier barring as well. I did disconnect the linkages as well. Make sure you don't pull the converter off the transmission pump when you pull it apart.
Not that I'm the worlds best mechanic. But I can figure out ANY mechanical situation before I can figure out Pelosi. Or any other democrat for that matter.
Did you figure out closet Linda Graham or republicans tapping their feet under bathroom stalls or the closeted Illinois republican who painted his office like Downton Abbey and resigned. This is a forum for cars but you can't help yourself for wanting to inject hate, politics and divisiveness. That's the problem you can't figure out.
Funny thing is i have 3 employees that i have them driving around in toyota prius as work vehicles to save on. Gas. And yes i do own a couple 6.2L LSX. One on a stand one in my own work truck.
The turbo 400 has a split bottom that gives more room. Most bell-housing are one piece which you can still do this without pulling still. I have another video with a 4L80E which is a full one piece bell-housing.
I've got a metallic clank in my suburban. Already replaced cat. converters cause they clanky rattle oly happens when the engine is cold. Could my flexplate be damaged? Also saw where starter could be hitting flexplate...but would that happen when it's cold & on acceleration? It doesn't rattle when I've drove around for a while.
My 5.3 in my Savana van is doing the exact same thing, what did you end up finding wrong with your vehicle? Did you find the flexplate to be bad and did you fix it?
Did you Disconnect the drive shaft ? Did you disconnect the transmission mount ? I understand that you can move transmission back and replace the flexplate what I wanted to know is what did you have to disconnect and what didn't you have to disconnect in order to move it back 3 4 5 6 in ?
Anyone want to help me with a step-by-step instruction? I might end up with a rust bucket '88 F150 soon, and I gotta know how to replace the flywheel before I can actually drive it.
@@juancano1908 in not sure on that one, I've done swaps on many of those transmissions and I personally have never seen a single spacer used. I've done several 350 builds and have never had to space any of them when installed. However I've never put one on a 4.3 The 4.3 is essentially a 350 with 2 cylinders lopped off. I would imagine it's probably the same
Trans shops that don't replace that part tend to be cheap. That part is not that expensive but parts add up on a job. Its hard to find a good transmission shop.
Hi. I've got a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder, 164,000 miles, 3.3L V6, 5 speed automatic transmission. When it's first started it knocks or rattles for 3 seconds. Then it stops. Once warm it will only do the startup rattle about 50% of the time. Exact same noise returns from about 1,800 to 3,200 RPM and then stops. If I'm going up a hill it won't do it 50% of the time unless I press the gas pedal and cause RPMs to sharply raise. The noise increases with RPMs increasing. The main bearings and rod bearings were changed. Looked good. No rod or crank shaft slop was noted. Oil/filter is new and full. Same with transmission fluid. I've narrowed it down to 4 things based on its part time occurrence: 1. Flex plate? 2. Timing belt tensioner failing (unknown when last changed)? 3. Torque converter? 4. Hydraulic lifters? I have two short videos I recorded it and can share. Thanks!
I have Infiniti qx4 2000 and i had the same issue , my situation were oil lifters and gas filter and , here is more common nissan problems if you are having a bad gas milge or a evap light , evap purge valve and canister And if you are hearing knocking noise when changing between r&d change the u joint front & back , If you are having a wobble death change the taling arms lower & upper
So my bad oil filter can't make the oil last to 5000 miles as the oil shoud so i have to change it every 3000 or 2500 miles and you will hear it but not loud at all if it is falling then you have yo replace them , this could be your problem
Some people call the flxplate a flywheel. But a flywheel is used for a manual transmission and a flxplate is used for a automatic transmission. But both parts are in the exact see place on a car.
Question, how long were the bolts you used to slide back the trans, AND did you have to take the cross member out or did the trans slide back enough. Thanks
Cross member had to be un-bolted yes i used it to hold the back end. Driveline has to come out to shift link as well the bolts i used were 6 inches long. I have another video showing more.
Next week i can make a video showing how to. But basically remove the driveline, remove the transmission cross bracket, undo bolts on Torque converter to flex plate, undo the shifter, undo the starter. put longer bolts into the bell-housing using a jack try to push the transmission back. Make sure you have at least 4 long bolts in the bell-housing. (*Make sure*) the converter is still on the pump or you will brake the pump.
