Okay so anyone reading this, you need to finish cleaning the tank with phosphoric acid, which is used in "rust converter" and auto body self etching primer, or Royal Jelly. You can use Muratic acid concrete cleaning acid which is hydrochloric acid. But dillute it some with water. And then don't leave it in very long because hydrochloric acid dissolves iron and steel. But the key is to rinse it out with water. Then do the same cleaning with phosphoric acid. If the rust isn't that bad you can start with phosphoric acid only. The phosphoric acid doesn't eat the clean good metal, it only removes the iron oxide (rust). The phosphoric acid turns the free iron on the surface of the steel into a hard rust resistant form of iron which is dark grey. Similar to when you blue a firearm. It's called passivation. The surface becomes more resistant to oxidation. After the phosphoric acid you'll not need to worry about it rusting unless you didn't clean the rust fully. Open non treated rust must be removed for the phosphoric acid to properly seal the metal. Hydrochloric acid does seem to remove rust very quickly although it's very aggressive and you'll want to start with a very weak solution first. Too strong of HCL acid and you'll burn through your good metal if you leave it sit too long. HCL is the same as stomach acid and our stomach acid can dissolve solid steel.
@@joelominator7752 I have been using 10% double strength vinegar for rust removal, it works well as a soak, but its too thin to spray onto stuff for rust removal. Then I discovered that adding enough detergent to the vinegar causes it to turn into a foam when sprayed on it sticks to surfaces. I used an 'earth friendly' toilet cleaner which contains 10% citric acid, oxidants and detergents as the detergent, it worked very well and increased the aggressiveness of the acid. I would be extremely careful to ensure you're only adding acid and detergent though, many people don't realize that accidentally adding even small amounts of bleach to vinegar can produce lethal concentration of chlorine gas.
When diluting acid with water, you should ADD ACID AFTER the water. Acid is more dense than water and mixing water with acid is exothermic (generates heat) and it has potential to boil off violently if water is added to a concentrated strong acid. The risk of a dramatic reaction is pretty low, especially with dilute weaker acids. However, it is a good habit to add the acid to the water, not the water to the acid.
Before you add the Oil to the tank to preserve it, dry the tank completly with a hair drier. This way the tank will be completly dry when the oil is added.
Then it will already be flash-rusted. Much like using isopropyl alcohol on water-logged electronics, the acetone they suggest will help evaporate the water and leave the oil.
Hey guys thanks for this video! Just used this method on the tank for a 2012 Honda Shadow that sat for about 7 years. Worked great and I couldn’t believe how much rust came out! I put in an inline filter as part of the project and now she’s running great with no hesitations or lurching. Thanks!
This worked like a charm! I did one to one and left it over night. Cleaned it with a pressure washer the next day. I had to go to lowes to get the works. Used a plastic bobber to plug the hole on the bottom of the tank.
If you're not using too much Marvel Mystery Oil with acetone, you can actually fill up the tank with fuel and use that to clean the rest of your fuel system. I've done that several times with motorcycles
@@russelldevane5434 Where in my comment did I mention clothing? I really don't give a shit what you wear, my comment referred to background music being too loud and why is it there on a supposedly instructional video.
Always clean lightly rusted metal with phosphoric acid. This is what they put in self etching primer and rust converter gel. You can clean and seal steel by cleaning it with phosphoric acid. Hydrochloric acid does remove rust but it also opens up the metal to rapid flash rusting and basically ruins the integrity of the metal permanently unless you polish the metal or wash it with phosphoric acid. The phosphoric acid closes the pores of the metal. The hydrochloric acid opens the metal. This isn't scientifically accurate but it's basically how it works. Phosphoric acid converts the free iron into hard rust proof metal which is less prone to oxidation.
@@yokakeshinowakane if it’s not completely out and you neglect to get gas tank liner... kiss your gas tank goodbye. If I were in your shoes again I would spend the extra $5 and get the right sealer
It's not a long term fix. It'll rust again if you don't constantly ride with full tank of gas. One thing I did to make it lasts longer was coat the inside of the tank with ceramic coating. No more rust again
@@wanderingengineer6168 Just pour the thing in the tank and drizzle the tank by spinning it, shaking it. The tank must be dry and free of grease before application
Better use phosphoric acid like the bike manufaturers. This will leave a inactive protective layer on the metal which prevents it from rusting. Thats the grey layer you see when you look into the tank of a new bike. I wouldnt coat the tank. This stuff will flake off causing you trouble later on.
I stripped the inside of my tank many years ago using a similar method. I just pour a cap full of two stroke oil in at each fill up (or when I get home). The oil coats the tank and helps prevent rust. My tank is still rust free!
well if you have not addressed the tank yet you may want to check this out. www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/vintage-motorcyle-info/143692-oxalic-acid-new-life-rusted-tanks.html
took me less than 30 seconds to find out the main ingredient in this stuff is hydrochloric (muractic) acid, WHICH IS EVEN CHEAPER. Also this stuff contains CHLORINE, whichc is an OXIDIZER, as in iron oxide, RUST! So not only are you using a more expensive version of something, you are also using something that is doing (making rust) the exact thing you are trying to clean, because the chlorine causes rust. So i have to say this is not the best method.
How I did it: Remove tank. Remove petcock, and tape closed. Partially fill the tank with small gravel and sand. Shake a lot. Pour out sand. wash out tank. DONE! What happened... the gravel and sand essentially "sanded" the inside of the tank while you shook it.
What was the ratio for the acetone and MMO. How long did you leave it to soak and did rust Start to come back. And can you leave some of that mixture in there and mix with the gasoline. I'm trying to do this to my truck gas tank
I have a CB 77 tank that I currently am working with,. Time is on my side so I am going with white distilled vinegar,. I started with the nuts and bolts to shake out some rust. Unfortunately we are staying home with the pandemic and my wife can’t go shopping . That means I can’t sneak an hour with the dryer to tumble the tanks with bolts and nuts so I did it by hand. The vinegar has been soaking for four days and I could still see rust on the sides of the tank through the full tank of vinegar. Then came a stroke of genius. I got an old U shaped grill brush. and cut one side of the wire off and straightened the brush out which made it twice as long. There is no part of the inside of the tank that I can’t reach and scrub down. I can already see the rust gone. I am going to let the tank soak for three more days and continue to scrub with the modified grill brush. Then I am going to clean out with Arm and Hammer washing powder to clean the tank and neutralize the acid. I will then evaluate to decide ifI will need a tank liner or not. If not I will use a little kerosine to soak into the tank to stop rust . For safety I will use a couple of external fuel filters before cranking up the bike. I have rebuilt the carbs and petcock so I want to be careful.
So I did everything you said so far leaving it overnight after I dumpnout the cleaner and rinse it out do I put the baking soda in first then the oil or do I put the oil in then the baking soda? And do I leave the baking soda in and oil on or do I rinse it out like how does that work?
Not really helpful would have like to see more so on the inside of the tank before and after… too much Blah Blah Blah on this video and not enough substance value
I mixed hot water and boiling water 50:50 with rad cleaner crystals to speed up the reaction. Also, after neutralizing and flushing out the tank with water, use alcohol to get rid of the water in the tank.
Yes it does it's called flash rusting and it's reaction can be super fast, its the same deal with a sand blasted finish ! You need to be on the ready with an airline (if you have one) & plenty of paper towel to dry it as quick as possible, use a hairdryer to help evaporate the water you can't get to, immediately smother it with a light oil to protect it from further flashrusting until you're ready to use the tank. Also a good idea to keep your fuel tank full as much as possible.
So between this and the Apple Cider and Gas Combo The Apple Cider Combo got my vote and they did it on a 80s never been cleaned tank. What do you guys think.
wont this just flash rust if you dont seal it after? the works has hydrocloric acid in it. which takes iron oxide and converts it into ferric chloride and water. then it attacks the pure iron. it leaves it exposed to flash rust. I doubt any of the other chemicals in works have any protective effect on bare iron. I've used hydrocloric acid to remove rust in tanks before. you need to seal it with Red Kote. wash out the acid with water, drain water rinse with a little bit of acetone, drain and pour in Red Kote. its acetone bases so any remaining acetone only delays drying by a little bit.
i just tried this tonight, i used 2 bottles and the rest water on a 4.5 gallon tank (2000 gsxr600) hopefully i used enough to make a difference. ill know tomorrow.
@@RoseAnvil it didnt "work" so well, trying it again with six 6 bottles and the rest water tonight. letting it sit for till tomorrow. ill report back back tomorrow
Cool video. I’m guessing muratic acid might work quicker and more efficient. Just a thought. Might also be cheaper since you would dilute the muratic acid
I've been using muriatic acid acid for cleaning tanks for years... Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. I also wear a respirator when working with it, pretty nasty stuff.
No, well technically yes, but... Any decent filter will have plenty of flow, don't get something from the $1 store or made for RC cars. You have a lot of excess capacity in that part of the system. Go ride as hard as you can and see how long it takes to use a gallon or gas. Now unhook the last part of your fuel delivery line and time it draining into a bucket or can.
Asalamalakem.wow no towel wrapped on top and ur dressed even shoes.didnt recognize u two .what a make over n well job a steping up.that and finnalyy a shower.great job u two.be hearing from u soon ,don't forget prayer rug.the guy up top.ALLAH...
I tried vinegar and did not rinse and coat with oil so I had a light coat of rust appear. I rinsed the tank before following this video and the rust came off easy. I did pour half a container of the works and it really did take off all of the rust with ease. Hope this helps.
Worked wonders! I used a Lysol toilet cleaner. The ingredients are different but the main one - the hydrochloric acid was the same. For some reason the Works was like $13 so I got the Lysol for a couple bucks per bottle.
I had used muriatic acid, left for a day, cleaned out, and then used a fuel liner( year ago). Don't use a fuel liner, I'm now cleaning out the tank again, and have to replace the fuel pump and fuel cap due to clumps of the liner and rust. 05 r6. May try this method. Also you didn't say how much of the marvel oil and acetone to use.
I dont know jack about chemistry but i do know that if you own a older car or a bike DON'T put ethanol in your ride, not asking you a impossibility,i dont live in a big city like New York on Chicago and there are like 20 gas stations that sell real gas where i live,Ethanol sucks ass, i wouldn't even use it to clean parts with,one of my older cars about 10 years ago was running rough,i decided to do my whole fuel system,once i peered into the tank i almost had a fucking heart attack. The inside of the tank looked like it was retrieved from the Titanic, the sending unit was a ball of rust along with the pump,the injectors filter baskets were full of something that looked like mud (you will normally after a few years have some dirt but nothing that resembles mud),a total mess,800 dollars later including a gas tank sourced from Canada and things have been copacetic. Here is the proof,after about 5 years of using nothing but real gas i started having a small leak from the gasket that goes from the tank to the filler neck,this is a common maintenance every 10 years or so in this kinda car etc,its like15 bucks,the gasket dries up and leaks, sometimes they can go for 20 years, all depends,anyhow i took advantage i had that gasket out and peered inside the tank,looked like Aquafina in there it was so nice and clear, no more ethanol for me.
Apple cider vinegar works better and a safer (for humans and metals) than other chemicals. If you have a bare tank (no paint) i would also use electrolysis. My two favorite ways to treat/remove/reverse rust.
Did you use distilled water and baking soda to flush/neutralize the tank? I am going to try with white vinegar. Looks like the "works" did a good job. So if you leave the" works" sit longer it should do a good job if there is a lot of rust? If the vinegar does not work then I will try the "works"Good video very informative.Cheers
@@RoseAnvil Dont use white vinegar, apple cider vinegar works far better, trust me on that one. However, electrolysis is even better. Get an old sears battery charger (manual) 6amps and youll be amazed on the quick results. Vinegar takes too long and isnt good on all metals (aluminum).
Will rubber work as gasket when blocking petcock hole with metal? I'll use 50% Works with distilled H20, will check after 4 hours, but may leave overnight. Don't want to lose solution, will save for another tank.
If you are trying to REMOVE A TANK LINER i just posted a video on how to do that! Link - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6Q0WwfL_1F0.html
@@oscarschott7047 I think so! The 1983 750ES is the only year of that bike. I started working on it just to get it out of the garage, but in doing so I've fallen in love with it! It's such a cool machine! An icon of the era!
I tried it on some rusty nuts and bolts just to see if it took the rust away. Left it over night the rust got worse. Worst then what it was. Without diluting with water.
FYI folks the main active ingredient in most toilet bowl cleaners is hydrochloric acid. If there's any chance the rust situation in your tank is severe enough that the metal could be thin you may want to start with vinegar or a milder acid.
I got my hands on a 1986 honda shadow 700 for $350.. tank is in pretty sorry shape. it has a couple of small holes, which i intend to weld shut after i remove the rust.
@@lorenblaine5275 do I rinse the baking soda out after then let the tank dry then apply the oil or wd-40 and do I let the oil stay in im assuming yes but wouldn't that do something to my gas its a 4 stroke engine on a mini bike get back to me soon please
For about $30-$40, you can use the much more proper product like KREEM to clean and then coat the gas tank so it won't rust again. Google "kreem products fuel tank liner combo-pak 1210". Alternative is to use Evapo-Rust to remove the rust, then use KREEM or RED-KOTE to coat inside the tank to make it rust-proof. If the part in question is something external, then once you got the rust removed, you can use a rag and some ACF-50 anti-corrosion to coat the metal to make it rust-resistant.
@@RoseAnvil Yup, I love the fact that it is bio-degradable and also doesn't harm skin or any sensitive parts like rubber/plastic or even paint. Trick is to make sure the part being de-rusted is as grime/grease/dirt-free as possible. One caveat to anyone interested or planning on getting inside their gas tank coated with this type of chemical (I found out the ugly way): If you are going to get the gas tank powder-coated (assuming it is metal), then you must get it powder-coated first, then get the inside of the gas tank anti-rust coated afterwards. Powder-coating process heats up to 400+ F and if you have the insides already coated, the chemical is likely to bleed thru the metal and ruin the color or cause spots.
I have a Kawasaki Vulcan, which needs this treatment, but the problem is the fuel pump is mounted on the bottom of the tank, and removing it before treating the tank is going to leave a big opening. Just turn the tank over! Yeah, only they you've got the acid eating into the gas cap's rubber seal. Short of removing the pump and cap and submerging the tank in a 30 gallon storage container full of bowl cleaner, can you recommend anything? Thanks.
Must to close all holes on gas tank and than add 3-4 litres of toilet cleaner is enough. Shake it about half of hour and rise by water and immediately dry by hairdryer.
