HOW TO REMOVE SNAPPED STUDS / BOLTS WITH A WELDER 

Dude, that was an epic example. You proved it efficacy even with the threads being cross threaded.. You were very clear and informative. Thanks for sharing

Best example I've seen yet of this method because it often does not work first go, so good on you for showing how it goes in the real world. On the one that have snapped off flush, maybe putting a washer on the piece would allow you to build up weld on the stud/bolt without catching the surface of the part? (never tried it, ). That one was well stuck, noticed you used the old trick of tightening a tad, everytime I do that, they shout" wrong way" LOL, but it does work sometimes.

I love your work man! I'm kinda digggin' the birds chirpin' in the background too though. Cheers from Tacoma, Wa.

Another great tip I have learned from you. Thank-you!

Your a star. Seeing it not work for gave me to confidence to keep trying. 5 nuts later and and 6 hours it finally began to move

I was fighting some locking lug nuts and couldn’t remember if you needed to let the but cool before trying to remove it or not. You answered my question, thanks man!

Great info Matt, thanks for sharing. Cheers.

It's nice to see a uk welding fad shop keep up the good work

Thanks for sharing that I appreciate the reality of it and the hurdles thank you

Greetings from Canada. I put a washer over the broken stud and weld it on first. You'll get better penetration into the stud. Then weld the nut over that. Let it cool and try it. If it still won't budge, I'll heat the part with the torches and it usually comes out easy. Enjoy watching your vids. Thanks.

That vice in the intro video is a great site, seen in many work shops and garages I've seen throughout my child hood haha

Great upload wish they had youtube when I was a mechanic.

Good informative video for people 👍

I've always had issue with using a nut for it, so once its proud I use a smaller bolt and offset it for a little extra torque. Typically the heat from the welder causes enough differential heating that it breaks free enough so the smaller bolt will not snap.

Just got my first welder and had this prob many times .Great info thanks!

Had a similar problem with a blind hole on my motorbike engine. Bolt corroded in, head broke off but had enough to weld a nut to. Did exactly the same, nut just came off, ended up just building up the end of the broken bolt with weld. The cycling hot/cold did the job. Was able to unscrew with a mole grips then. Almost paid a lot of money for one of those induction heaters to do the same thing, obviously a worthwhile investment if you're doing this a lot.

Great suggestion. Thank you.

Nice demo! I did this for a mate on a dolly sprint when I was a teenager about 35 years ago. He'd started the job himself then snapped the stud. I was well chuffed with myself for coming up with idea. I earnt £100 quid I think. That included putting the engine back together again. For info, you would be better off using penetrating oil rather than WD40.

Thank you, even if it didn't work at first, i'm glad so I wont feel alone when that mother f****** wont move, you showed us what to do if that is the case and that's appreciated :)

Add a bit of white candle wax while still fairly hot. It sucks in like solder and it's a lubricant.

can you use this method on aluminum head ? I have a broken exhaust manifold stud on my honda accord.

Should have heated the housing also where the snapped bolt was

Such great fucking videos gets me hyped every time I type in welding something or the other the best ones I find are your videos new subscriber and new welder 😂doing few practice welds then have to weld my car up 😅😂i wish I was joking. But this has saving me 15 pound ontop of the rest problem like over 300

Btw how I got it out in end. Steel bolt in aluminium wheel hub. Reckon it was glued in. Welding horizontal. Built out a 10mm mount. Nuts were not bonding well enough. I welded old broken wrench onto the weld on bolt stub. Let it cool. Then tapped up down with hammer.

Usually easier when you do it when the part still has some heat from welding

I've done this on broken bleeder screws as well.

Thansk for the video. My stud was so stuck in there, the bolt just kept breaking. I had to drill it out.

Thanks man..!!

This method works better with an oxy acetylene torch. You weld the nut on and the casting gets heated red. Let it coll as you tap tap tap on the head of the nut with a small hammer. The it usually come right out. In an aluminum casting weld it quickly and back it out without tapping or cooling. Real handy on Audi heads.

Is this at high power - low feed settings?

You also have to heat the part that surrounds the threads with a torch to guarantee success.

My first employer taught me this. Not only give s you but but also the heat t helps it break loose

Wy don’t use test the thread by torquing the bolt to the spec on the suspected hole? So you don’t have to put a time sert in there while the part is on the car.

another great video, how about a car rollover jig?????

You should loosen with an impact the hammering actions helps loosen it

What welder did you use and what were the settings

One thing I never do is use a rasterbator. Mostly because I’m 25 and live on the term what doesn’t kill me makes me stronger. But as I’m putting so much hard work in learning to become the best I can be I’m now thinking on making the effort decide to use one. I guess using some kind of face mask be okay as they can get expensive. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.

Kroil! Try it, you'll like it!

Give it a min at the most and then remove it while still hot. Do not let it cool.

also try welding a heavy washer to broken stud/bolt ... then weld a heavy nut to the washer

you could also drill a hole through the stud put a left-hand thread through it insert a bolt and undo.

I got one bolt out of this pin no problem (have done this many times) Currently on my 4th nut on the opposite side. This bolt MUST have been cross threaded in.

Nice. You will find oil is much better than wd40 for tapping. Any kind of oil, even bacon fat. Wd40 is pretty useless as a cutting oil.

quenching is acceptable, especially with PB Blaster

Cool extraction,....... LAG

So I have bad luck welding inside nuts, they always snap too easily (maybe too much slag). It's even impossible when it's under a car and you can't get below to see in the middle what you are welding. So here is a tip for all you guys, get a washer, or drill a thick steel, weld that instead, and now weld the nut to the washer/plate but on the outside, making sure your socket can still get on the nut. Voila, much more secure weld without snapping off. Shit like that makes me want to try 7018 instead of 6013 electrodes to see if it makes a difference in strength.

Duramax?

What type of welding would this be called , ?

Could also drill the thread totally out and put a nut on the other side.

I guess I'm a shit welder. Have a snapped bolt that's sitting just proud of an aluminum head. It is a small stud, and every time I weld a nut to it, it snaps off with very little force. I'm pretty sure I'm just "filling the nut" instead of welding to the stud and tying it in. But it's a small nut and stud on a 10HP engine. Any pointers? High heat? Slow wire speed? Higher wire speed, low heat? any other combo? Try and angle the weld puddle?

What size wire do you use?

Came here looking for ideas and turns out the stud I’m trying to remove Is in exactly the same location on the same turbocharger haha. Must be a common problematic stud

3:38 Always remove things like Wd-40 Gas bottles away from Sparks very dangerous situation to leave them so close.

This method, an Easy-Out, then drill out and re-tap. Always start with the easiest. Good Job. Also, try mixing up some homemade penetrating oil, 50% Acetone - 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid. I've been using it for a few years now and always successful. Must be shaken often but worth the trouble.

WD 40 from below? Why don't twist the part upside down? Put soms WD 40 leave it for a few minutes and agan try to complete the job?

Car key injan ka bolt nikal keeps dikhaoo

Heat does wonders. Can’t believe he’s actually using wd40.

he didn't heat the stud before trying to loosen it.

Mma do the job too fella . ?

Easier to drill it out. Avoids welding splatter on the mating surface. I wouldn't want welding near a cylinder head.

Had you heated the area around the bolt before removing it...it would've come off much easier w/o breaking...or using penetrating oil...NOT WD-40.

lol the biggest problem here is that you're using WD40 as a penetrating lubricant.

Should remove it while hot!!!!!!!!!!