How to remove wallpaper the easiest and quickest way 

Hi Steve, i can't remember off hand, but i just googled it and bought it online, because i found it difficult to find in stores or garden centres.... They seemed to just stock the next model down which isn't as durable.... Hope this helps bud

Amazon £43 👍

No, not necessarily because paper had previously been on there which means its already sealed with old paste. I personally don't use pva anyway, I would size with whatever paste I was using to hang the lining paper if it was a porous surface.(but thinned) Saying that, if the surface has been patch repaired, mostly sanded, or deep cleaned...then I would then apply a size to be on the safe side due to the fact filling, sanding can remove the old paste residue and new filled area's always need spot sizing/priming.

Yes all good thank you, hope you are too 👍 Yes you can paint the wall without lining of course, but the condition of the walls dictates this. You have to either remove all paste residue, or seal in the residue using the appropriate product before painting. I usually sand the walls back with an orbital sander and thoroughly clean the area and rinse. Also all imperfections need to be repaired before application for best results. If the walls are patchy caused by historical repairs to the wall, and have different textures ...this results in the wall having different levels of absorption on the surface and can effect the look when painted ect...without lining or reskimming , you may not get the best results.

Lining walls is not a substitute for the preparation of walls, as the preperation is still needed before the application of paper. The ling paper provides a consistent surface for the paint(absorption) and also a consistent colour to paint over if the walls are patchy due to historical repairs using different fillers. Cross lining walls prior to papering minimises the shrinkage of the finish paper after application to stop gaps appearing on the seams(joints)

@@JoeProDecor thanks for the reply Jo, much appreciated!! Do you have a video on cross lining paper, and fitting to eliminate joint etc? I didn't see one of yours sorry...

@@mozaman9005 yes there is a couple of me applying it ....and one pasting and folding .....the one applying it is more of a demo rather than an instructional one

@@JoeProDecor thanks again Jo, will find it and take a look! How is your situation with this lockdown?? Hope it's not too bad mate, wish you all the best and thanks again for all your help, extremely grateful!

Hi , yes this method should be fine on plasterboard as I'm presuming the plasterboard has been skimmed? Or skimmed and painted? Saying that, there is a possibility that the surface can potentially be damaged , but there are many ways to combat that and repair the surface ready for painting or wallpapering. If plasterboard has been installed without skimming , or even based out with an oil based coating prior to wallpapering....this will inevitably damage the plasterboard surface when stripping the wallpaper. Thank you for your comments and take care, Joe

@@JoeProDecor I'm hoping it was skimmed, keeping my fingers crossed! Thanks for the advice, and the videos 👍😁

@@LucieDonut you're welcome 🙂

Have you tried perforating it before soaking? Is it on a curved ceiling? If all else fails then steaming it off is the answer, but a steamer is rarely needed tbh... Other methods usually work without the need for a steamer... Especially if you have already removed the majority

There is, a product called zinsser DIFF that you can apply to the paper that helps the removal easier, but it needs to be left to soak so is often quicker without the need for that.

@@JoeProDecor Thank you Joe for the quick response. No we didn't perforate and the ceiling is not curved. I did pick up the DIFF tonight and was going to try that tomorrow. Do you know how long it should be left on for or should we just follow the bottle instructions?

@@donnagibson3084 not sure because I've never needed it tbh. Regarding the perforating, it makes a big difference if it doesn't come off dry Orby soaking without perforating... In fact it's the perforating which usually enables it without the need for DIFF

I usually try a blade scraper as apposed to a, standard scraper as, well if the paper is tough to remove... They are a, scraper with a large Stanley knife type lade on the end... Which I often use on woodchip, but I don't presume diyer's carry all the necessary tool's obviously

Hi Steve, unfortunately there really isn't a,way of doing it without creating a bit of mess. ..you just have to protect what needs protecting. But....it is always best to remove as much as you can dry first...as its the wet material that makes the mess. The dry top layer you take off can be left on the floor to help absorb some of the water. You could even try a steamer...let it fill the room with steam before attempting to get the paper off, this way is great if all of the layers come off in one go, but without seeing it, it's almost impossible to be clear on the exact way of tackling it tbh Unfortunately, it is a messy job. The best of luck with it

@@JoeProDecor many thanks for getting back to me Joe. I've decided to be a devil and go against what Dad said because he needs dragging into the 21st century kicking and screaming. Plus it's a guest bedroom that I'm renovating so it will be used by many family members visiting in the forthcoming years. We just want it to look modern and fresh. Whoever invented anaglypta truly needs shooting. 😂. I'm going to try the dry scraping first as I've started a portion of the wall above the fitted wardrobes that is the same colour and style of texture as the ceiling. It's very glued on in parts but the rest has stripped off with a bit of welly. Just the backing paper to wet once I've got the majority of the surface off. I'm hoping it was done at the same time as the ceiling so it's the same effort level (as much as it will ache like hell to keep reaching above.). I'm sure my Dad will have a fit if he sees I've started attacking it. The joke is is that he's sat on his ar*e downstairs while I do it all. 😂. If the ceiling turns out to be a nightmare can you recommend any last resort solutions to just having it look clean and smooth. I have considered drywall stuck on but I'd imagine that can be costly??? Love to hear your thoughts on that? Many thanks

Hi Joe, luckily the ceiling was no trouble at all and the majority slid off once I got the scraper underneath. Few spots here and there pretty bonded (to be expected) but it was on overall easier job than the damn walls! Whenever I scrape them dry I can only get small pieces to tear off. The ceiling paper was coming off in huge pieces but the walls, no. I do have a steamer as a last resort. Is that best to just score it all and go for it with the heat? Any advice appreciated!!!

@@stevej4328 if it doesn't come off dry, then its on to the next step to try, soak an area and see if that works, if not, perforate an area and see if that works...if they fail its time to get the steamer out....if the paper doesn't peal.off in strips....I do the other 2 methods at the same time in two different areas not to waste time

@@JoeProDecor many thanks for your reply Joe. I've finally managed to get it all off! It was a steamer job on parts but I took your approach and just used a spray bottle of water on all of the remaining backing paper and it slid off to bare plaster. Can I please ask now I'm at this phase what would be best to make the walls as good as possible? Plasterwork doesn't look too scary (ceiling is immaculate) but should I still clean with sugar soap to get the paste residue off or can I just use a specialist primer to paint on first? I've heard talk of Zinsser 123, or something called Gardz, that is meant to make life much easier. Any help/recommendations on this would be really appreciated!

More of what Alfie?

JoeProDecor will warm water and washing up liquid remove my pattern paper?

@@alfiewhitbread6933 hopefully yes....if it's not too stubborn. All papers are different and may need a different approach. The video should help as it explains the stages on what is needed with a steamer being last tesort

@@alfiewhitbread6933 only a very small amount of washing up liquid as that's just to stop.the water running off so quickly giving it chance to absorb

Hi Mick, these walls were lined before painted. The surface still needed some important preperation prior to lining as follows: Firstly i sanded the whole surface to de-nib and smooth as best as possible. Then i filled any holes/divets ect....and feathered off any visible surface defects before sanding smooth and sizing/sealing ready for lining. The preperation proccess is a bit more complex if the surface is not being lined and usually consists of multiple fills and applying a sealer coat to hold in any remaining paste residue, and even a pigmented primer if the surface is particularly bad as this helps highlight further smaller imperfections after the first fill, when multiple fills are required. Due to the length of time and heavy labour required to repair surfaces like this, it is usually more cost effective for a client to have the surfaces lined. Lining paper creates a consistant , stable substrate for paint, rather than having a wall with many different textures( in this case paint, plaster and filler patches on it...not ideal for applying paint over and achieving a great finish. Reskimming is also a good option. Cheers, Joe

@@JoeProDecor wow thank you so much for taking the time to explain really appreciate it joe.