Can you please explain the 2 tools you use to remove the seal...some type of pliers along with the other one that allows for leverage? Thanks so much for the video, huge help.
I'm glad you found the video helpful. Here are the list of tools: Dust cap pliers- amzn.to/32ABDQZ Seal puller-amzn.to/3c4fjT5 Bearing Packer- amzn.to/2EcDqT4
I wish the people that give thumbs down were forced to provide an explanation. I think is a terrific, easily understood and very informative video. Thank you, great job!
I guess one possibility is they may be working on the same axle on a boat trailer in which case you would want to actually use that bearing buddy in this situation you’re simply using it for a cap which is perfect for a trailer that doesn’t go in the water! Great job just looking at your hands tells you have some idea of what the hell you’re doing! Experience is the best teacher
I did provide an explanation. This is a driveway mechanic version of doing the job properly. If you are going to go the the trouble to repack the bearings the very least you can do is replace the seals and not reuse the old ones. You also need to pack the hub full of grease. If the only grease in the hub is in the bearings and race it will quickly thin out and move to the center of the hub and then the bearings have inadequate lubrication. That is the beauty of the spindles with a grease zerk on the end that pushes the grease from behind the back bearing out to the front, effectively packing both bearings each time you grease them PROPERLY.
@@crappieslinger yeah I’ve only done this job once before.. it only cost about $15 per side for the bearings and new caps.. may as well just use all new parts and grease it up
Until now, I completely unaware that using my bearing buddy was resulting in an incomplete and potentially hazardous situation. Greatly appreciate your no-nonsense approach as well. Thank you!
From eTrailer: Bearing Buddy pumps grease into the center of the hub all the way back to the grease seal. A double lip seal should be used to prevent grease from blowing out the seal when added. When the hub and seals and bearings are first assembled, they should be packed. After a period of time and when you want to maintain the grease on the bearings, the grease would travel from the zerk fitting on the Bearing buddy through the outer bearing. It would then fill the cavity inside the hub and continue to the inner bearing. You will want to use caution when using bearing protectors and make sure you do not overfill the hub with grease because too much grease can blow out through the grease seal.
I really like the fact that you explained the reasons why bearing buddies are not fail safe. Sometimes the old fashioned way of doing things is the best way.
I'm still going to have a pro do the work for me, but I like seeing what's involved. Your video was well done. Straight to the tutorial and no fluff or other useless BS. Nicely done and very informative.
Thank you so much! I am just starting to repack into a Casita travel trailer and did not know any procedures to follow. Now I feel much more competent and know what to look for.
Your welcome Bill! If your trailer has small tires, they bearings will need serviced more frequently because the tires will make more revolutions per mile than trailer with larger tires.
Great, I'm not the only one who didn't do this! Now I will... lesson learned! I have a small utility trailer that I use to haul kayaks around. Still need to maintain it well.
You should never loosen the spindle nut to line up the hole for the cotter pin. Always tighten to next castelation. Backing it of will allow more play then needed and can damage the bearings , Also if too tight will damage the bearings by overheating. But one castelation will not . just the right amount of preload. I work on airplanes and the manufacturer gives us a certain torque to tighten the nut and then back it off to zero and re-tighten to a lower torque spec then go to next castelation to line up the cotter pin hole. never back off.
I don't agree. I was taught by old timers. Finger tight after seating, back off to fit pin. A full castle nut lug tighter and you're too tight,. Too tight is worst, as more heat is generated, Degrading your grease and destroying the bearings prematurely. Hub Should not move laterally but spin freely. If movement repeat process. That's how I was taught. Never lost any bearings yet.
Tapered bearings do better loose than tight. I know you work on airplanes. You do understand that airplane wheels don't just spin for hours and hours right? Slightly tight probably won't hurt for heading down the taxiway or taking off. But a 10 hour trip down the highway at 60+.....probably not so well.
As cheap as most seals etc are I always go ahead and repack, replace and clean everything up before I button it all back down.. You end up with a fully serviced hub good for years ... vs not doing it all and having to do it more often as well as end up with bad parts screwing up good parts/// Thanks It is always nice to see someone do their own work.. I try to and so far I haven't paid a mechanic or a service hand in over 40 years... I'm retired so.. yeah I think it's all been worth.. it !
Was going to say this as well. I just did mine and both inner bearings were corroded and rusty due to the seals being hard and I guess worn - cleaned them up and they dont look worn but the rubber was all hard and brittle. then i read while purchasing a bearing kit that mfr recommends REPLACE THE SEALS EVERY TIME YOU REPACK - they are a wear item and can save your bearings from early death. former owner said he repacked previous year and i believe him, but he obviously re-used the seals for years...now i gotta buy a whole kit to replace bearings and seals. Good on you for using a new cotter pin tho! never reuse those either. not worth it.
Thanks Roger. That's the problem with bearing-buddy's b/c they give a false sense bearing lubrication. When I fished tournaments, several fellow boat owners had burned their bearings b/c the bearings were NOT well lubed. They said they put lube in the bearing buddy's and that's when they realized the grease did not go through to the rear bearings. They pumped grease into a salt-water filled race (ouch). Excellent job, Roger. Full-watch.
How are you doing? I had not seen you around in a while. You do fishing tournaments? My uncle was looking at trailers for his jon boat years ago. One of the selling points on the trailer he got was bearing buddys. Thanks for watching!
Hey back at ya, Roger. Yep, I fished bass tournaments back in the early 80's up until late 80's. Since we were on the east coast, we fished branches that were brackish. What a nightmare that proved to be for trailer bodies, axles, and anything that was metal. Sorry, not many videos made this year but I'll get some out. Good talking to ya. Have a fine week.
People need to understand that even with a set of bearing buddies or the easy lube hub you still have to take them apart clean them and check them and reinstall them once a year, or you’re just asking for five hours along side the busiest highway in the country!
@@theusconstitution1776 You're definitely right on the money, Pete. Along side a very busy road with a very heavy load on the trailer at that. Thanks for the courtesy reminder b/c you're spot-on. Have a fine upcoming week. 👍🏽🙂
That blue grease packer is dope and so is that gasket puller. You're one of those dudes that buys the correct tools for the job. Respect. Imma just sit here with my palm and small flathead and a wish lmao
I'm a mechanic, so I have to have the right tools for a job like this. Since I am a mechanic it has taught me to have that having the right tools for a jobs is faster, and gives better results. On a job like this, you will be fine packing the bearings by hand.
This was a great video...very detailed and straight to the point. Thank you for posting. I will be greasing my bearings today on a trailer I am selling..I thought you simply remove the cap and slap some grease in there..end of story....
helpful video, thanks! For my trailer, I'm thinking about getting some new cotter pins, 'cause mine are really old... It's way overdue for repacking the wheel bearings.
Great video! I learned my lesson about Bearing Buddies the hard way, lost my left trailer wheel on the freeway because the bearings apparently were gone over time even though I greased through the Bearing Buddies periodically; I had to have my axle rebuilt with 2 new wheel hubs and the most important advice I was given when I picked it up was "DON'T USE THE BEARING BUDDIES... grease the old school way and hand pack them or use a bearing packer! ... if you use the Bearing Buddies's, you'll force grease out of the seals and crack them because you're introducing new grease and there's no room to hold both old and new grease, old stuff has to go somewhere and it will be forced out through the seals." This video is a valuable lesson!! It repeats what my trailer guy told me. Thanx for sharing!!
I think a lot of people don't know that bearing buddies are spring loaded so that the hub is pressurized for a longer period of time. I usually grease them just before I back my boat trailer into the water. You can see the grease zero move out and will stay there if there is no bad seal. As far as the worry you might over grease the bearing buddy pushing the seal out of the hub you should know that the design of the bearing buddy has a bleed hole that lets the grease out of the same area as the zerk is installed on.
I agree. I have E-Z Lube axels on my tailor. I still repack my bearings every two years and/or replace them every four. I use my E-Z Lube once or twice a year after the trailer has been sitting in the off-season. Or if I use it more than usual during the season, I'll give the axle a couple of squirts once in a while. Other than that, they still need to be repacked and the old grease cleaned out regularly.
I've not packed wheel bearings in nearly 20 years so I wanted a refresher. Very well done, I would say however please wear gloves, your hands are a sponge and you absorb the toxins in grease, oil, etc. Again, thank you.
Very well done video i noticed there was no B.S. of fluff....just on point and to the point...Thank you this will help me a lot when I tackle this job.
Great video. Question. I’m currently renovating a single axle and want to change the bearings. If my axle doesn’t have a number to identify it is there another way to determine what type of bearings I need?
I'm a rv mechanic of 20 years, and I agree with everything you said except I always recommend new grease seals, there cheaper than a pack of gum and the rubber and spring wear making them more likely to release grease on to brakes, and my personal opinion bearing buddies have no place on axels with brakes, but great video.
Great video much appreciated I do have one question though I followed the video to t But when I put everything together including the lug nuts spun the tire when it was finished and it still sounds rough? Does that mean maybe the castle nut is too tight?
No brakes Maybe the castle nut is just a little too tight? I did notice that with the bearing that there was a bit of play between the outer and inner rings Everything was cleaned and everything was smooth
Goes straight into video,no extra chit chat,gets straight to the point and well educates. You “how to” guys need to take notes. I want to know how to do what I looked up, not giggle about your side story or 20k subs.
You can remove the hub and look at the seal. There should be a number on it. You can also measure the seal. There should be a tag on the axle to tell you what it is so you can find it by application. You probably have a 2k axle.
Great video. I was expecting to hear an air gun wrench sound during the time lapse nut removal. I think I would wear gloves while handling the grease. And the biggy - a couple of bad camera angles where the right arm blocks the camera from seeing the part and related action. Otherwise, the learning is all there. Are there different sizes of trailer bearings? How easy to obtain the special tool you used to remove the seal?
Nice work. Forget the bearing buddy. It allows debris and water into the bearings. It looks good on paper, but I've not had very good luck with them. Just use a dust seal.
From what I understand bearing buddy's are for Marine application. There not ment to grease the bearing. There ment to slightly pressure the seals to prevent water from getting in. My dad always make me give them a pump before backing the boat in the water.
We picked up a pop up camper and on the way home we noticed smoking and the hub cap was gone. Only one wheel at first. We’ll be doing this today,hoping this is it!
Thanx To Point Out To Every-one the mixing of clean vs dirty grease aka just makes the clean grease last less longer! Bravo To save the seal, doesnt work that easy for Me :) . 2 axle brakes is excellent idea especially if you live in mountain or hilly areas of travel. People Good idea to take rim off hub for saving the wheel seal latr.
Hi Roger. I'm about to go through the Bearings and the Electric Brakes on an older enclosed trailer I bought earlier this year. The Hub Nut needs to simply be finger tight (after backing off)? I don't need to apply a certain amount of torque to preload the Bearing? Will defo look out for your Brake how-to video....thanks.
I tighten the nut down some with the tool I used in the video, so it is not super tight. Then I loosen the nut, and re-tighten til there is no play. If you trailer has dexter axles, here is the manul for them. www.dexteraxle.com/docs/default-source/dexteraxle/product-documentation/manuals/600-8k_complete_service_manual.pdf?sfvrsn=cfe1e328_42 Here is the trailer brake video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZrLZcvIGR48.html
