How To Replace Trailer Wheel Bearing (START to FINISH) | How To Set and Repack Wheel Bearings 

Great video..... thanks for posting. I'd like to add a little tidbit that my old high school auto shop teacher taught us as far as the final setting and tightness of the castle nut (RIP Mr. B.). In the video you set the bearing perfectly with three cycles of hard tightening to get it pressed in and then backing off to make the final snugging up. When ready to do the final tightness and set the cotter pin, you want to make sure there is no "wobble" in the wheel. It can sometimes help to temporarily put the tire back on for better grip, but when you grab the wheel at opposite sides (180 deg. apart) and pull side to side, you don't want the wheel to wobble - side to side play in the wheel = BAD. If is has some side to side play, that means that the castle nut is not tight enough. Keep slowly tightening the castle nut and pulling side to side until you take the play out and it no longer wobbles, go a castle position past, set the cotter pin, and then you should be set. Cheers!

Is someone's never replaced the bearing and they came to your video to watch it you didn't replace the raise because you're not actually replacing the bearing so they will be confused about that.

No need to pack the hub, it is just a waste and mess of greese. Also it can cause increased pressure when the hub heats up and could pop your dust cover or worse make your seal pop on your breaks. This is why most shops will frown against using the EZ lube zerks on Dexter axle hubs as this causes a similar problem. You want your castle nut and the rest clean. I would still put a thin layer of greese on the inside of the hub, and the spindle, but mostly just need greese packed in the bearings and raceways. You will save a lot of greese, and make the next repack cleaner. Plus when you open the dust cover if you do have issues it will be more visible.

Need to place clean cardboard under that wheel.

50ft lbs on the castle nut to seat the bearings.

Nice video, thanks for the help!

You have the perfect voice for this video. Great info.

The correct way to set up the bearings i.e. have the correct play is to take a broad flat screwdriver and placing it between the hub bore and the perimeter of the washer behind the caste nut. When rotating the screwdriver the washer must be able to move perpendicular to the shaft under castle nut! The movement must free but not loose! As you say there must be minimal play felt. Do a test drive, shortly stop and feel the hub for temperature level, it should remain cold! Last week I applied this routine, drove 2000km and all was perfect!

Thank you for this video!!

I'd tell my wife to come check this out, then begin akimbo can spraying and barely hit the hub.

Its called a Hub Cap my brother

Yah place it in the dirt and hammer out the bearing, for sure

How to get the hub off of its seized all to hell

I thought my bearings were shot on my tandem axle trailer. The rim had a bit of play when shaking it a bit. Took the rim off. Removed the dust cover.. found the locking nut was more loose than it should have been. Tightened it snug so the hub could still turn freely, and bam. Good to go!

As a fellow RU-vidr I appreciate all the work that goes into these videos. Great vid 👍

there's a crack in that hub.

Great video!

Where are you in Ontario?