A couple of machining hints for you: when you turn the dowel down, don’t have so much material protruding past the chuck. This create more deflection in your work and a far less accurate runout on the material. You might also consider investing in some instruments to measure the runout at the chuck and the tailstock. Your tailstock is very sloppy in its clamping, and when you drilled the core, I guarantee you the hole was not concentric to the shaft. This causes your ferrule to not be concentric, then alignment of the shaft is effected. Might seem like small measurements, but 1mm of difference over 40” is a lot of angular deflection. I recognize you’re just get going, but all these habits will make your work top notch!
Thanks for the input. I do have a dial indicator that mounts to the cross slide that I use all the time. Also there was only deflection on the first pass for the dowel, I took much less material on the last few passes since for accuracy. I do not love my tailstock I am going to reach out to cueman to see if he has any better options. (Deluxe lathe is 6 months out) I have been boring with a micro boring bar more times than not now. This shaft did turn out fantastic for how badly split the end of the shaft was. Thanks again for the comment
Hey fella. When doing LD laminated shafts like predator, jacoby, OB ect I would suggest using a deep cleaner instead of going so rough on the sandpaper. I've learned over 22 years fixing and building the least amount of sanding you can get away with is always better.
Yeah thanks, I almost never sand. But this on had a separation in between a laminated piece that I ran some thin penetrating ca into. So I had to sand on this one unfortunately. This was just a “strength” repair to use as a bar box break shaft.
Not a bad job at all, you could not do much about adding weight to the tip. Just remember adding or removing weight at the tip is changing the characteristics of the cue greatly. Try to keep the changing of weight at the tip to the smallest amount you can. As for the shaft sealer, I stopped that many years ago so that I never make it impossible to properly remove dents. To properly remove dents you make the dented wood grow back to original position using steam etc. If you seal the shaft you stop the heated steam from impregnating the shaft wood and raising the dent. Keep up the good work.
Thanks! Since this was so split, I had no choice but to add as much strength as possible. Plus he is just using it as a break shaft or spare. That’s a good point about the sealer, I know how to remove dents but didn’t realize sealer would stop that. I’ve always been able to raise the grain, but could have been due to the shaft being sanded down a good bit since it was new.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 Just trying to help. I no longer seal or use wax etc. just polished raw wood above the little bit of finish at the bottom.
Nice video! I have some questions: Which shaft is that? (314-2?). What material are you using for the ferrule? How did you match the ferrule wall thickness and weight of the original ferrule? Also, the maple tenon you made...does that match the weight of the original? My concern with repairs like this is altering the deflection characteristics of the shaft. Fractions of a gram can make a noticeable difference. Also, you decided on an uncapped ferrule? As a tip installer for 20 years, I hate uncapped ferrules. They are adequate for playing cues, but horrible for break cues. Just curious how you address these types of concerns. Thanks for the great video!
This was a 314-2 that was in a really really bad state. Had a long split down the one splice. So I strictly went for strength on this repair with a maple tenon going past the crack, as a back up shaft. I play with a 314-2 and I hit balls with this cue and it definitely added about 5-7% deflection. Which I told him would happen. I have repaired 314’s with a cored tenon and a actual predator capped ferrule, but didn’t have a channel then unfortunately lol. Thanks for the comment too.
@@mulhollenbilliardschannel654 oh ok gotcha. I’m super sensitive to deflection. Unfortunately my juiced up 314-3 is so low that I really can’t use anything else lol. Played with a 12.4 Revo for a while and just couldn’t adapt the the big *increase* in deflection!
@@boyraksdelpu just from hitting balls. Been playing at a very high level with a low deflection shaft since the Precat came out. I’ve used every low deflection shaft predator has ever released as well. Thanks for the comment and let me know if you have any other questions! 👍🏼
Yeah with the large split at the end of the shaft I didn’t want to core the tenon and fill with foam. Was mainly worried about strength. However it only added about 5-7% deflection at the most. Played great honestly.
I appreciate the vid but you leave a lot of details out. You went from making the dowel to facing off the ferrel. What happened in between? What was in that paint can you opened? Share your secret sauce bro. 😊 Nice work though.
Hello sir nice video will be a great help for me if you can tell me the name of the product you used to make the shaft looking shine like you did the bottom part i live in Central America and I do my own work on my cues learning because here everyone do manual no lathe I had to buy one to get it done right I appreciate if you can help me on that great video !!!
It depends on how bad the damage is and what tip you want. But it’d range from $80-$110. You can check out my Facebook to get my address and stuff like that. Thanks! Facebook below DMIII custom cues and pro shop
Hi, how can I contact you I have a question about my old cue stick, it's a 3 part cue, but all the same size... I discover that now 3 piece cue means a regular 2 parts + a short heavy butt for jumping
dude , you ruined the LD tech in the shaft . there is a better way to do it . makke the inner dowel shorter .drill it to get hollow again after assembly . then lower the shoulder to have the tennon of both wood parts . install a capped ferrule . there you go a LD again 😎
I stated in the video description that this had a long split in between 2 of the laminated shaft pieces. Hence why the dowel was so big and the reason I didn’t use a called ferrule is he is using it as a low deflection break shaft for bar box 8 ball. If not I would have used a different core material along with some foam. Then used a capped ferrule to keep it lower deflection, but that would have worked with how bad the shaft was damaged. I also sanded it so much cause I used penetrating CA on the shaft cracks.
Won’t subscribe with not learning and showing your products for the talent you show. Should have been a lot better in my opinion if you wanted me to be a supporter.
As I stated in the video description, this was supposed to be a cheap repair as the shaft was being used on a break cue, it also had a large split in the laminate. This shaft is still going strong as a break shaft, so this repair worked exactly as it was intended. I also state in the description and comments that the proper fix is to core it out and use foam if being used as a playing shaft.
