For more helpful videos like this please consider supporting my channel by either subscribing to it or giving a Super Thanks. Your support helps to enable me to both create more content and improve the quality of it, via the acquisition of new camera equipment, editing software and purchasing subscriptions to quality royalty-free music.
Fell headfirst into my buddy's living room wall last night and went clean thru two pieces of drywall and into his kitchen. This video saved my friendship
Use a utility knife to square up the hole. Then buy a length of 1"x3" lumber and some drywall screws. Cut small lengths of 1x3 lumber pieces. Slide a piece of cut 1x3 into the hole so that half of it is hidden by the drywall and the othe half is exposed. Use one hand to hold it firmly while you screw drywalls screws through the drywall and into the 1x3. Repeat this process on all 4 sides of the hole. Now you have a lip to attach a piece of drywall to.
I'm glad to know as he mentions to measure the drywall width. Another thing he mentions is it will make it easier to find another stud to secure the drywall instead of screwing a wood piece into the drywall. I'm try me best. Thank you for your help.
Fantastic video! Love how you fully explained each step. Bought a house with a few holes in the walls, and thanks to your video i can fix them myself rather than hire someone! 👍👍👍
Excellent video. I'll be rewiring my house soon and repairing the drywall around the old outlet holes. This gives me the know-how in order to get it done.
This video was amazing! I have watched a few videos on how to repair walls but, your video is by far the BEST. It is so detailed and I like how explain everything so well. It was so helpful and helped me to get the job done! Thank you.
Thanks so much. I have to repair a large hole that was made right next to my electrical panel. I was nervous about how to cut out the drywall (so that I could replace it) as there are many heavy duty wires behind it. Your video showed me the exact way to do it. Very informative and very easy. Thanks again!
Yes, the techinques in this video will work for what you need to do. My only concern is that there could be mold behind the drywall much larger than the soft spots. You should do some sample test holes in a few other places besides the soft spots to see if you have a mold issue. If you do, then you will to need to remove all of the drywall.
Thank you for the video. Second day of January 2021. I have to remove two windows next week end repair the drywall. Hopefully your video has taught me well
Good video. You didn't need to make the hole that big... could have made it 1/4 to 1/3 the size and put a piece of drywall in with the paper edges only on the edge and then mud it in place and then sand it down after it has dried. Did this about 9 months ago when I pushed the hand rail into the drywall before fixing it by putting into the stud. Also should use tuct tape (red tape) to tape up the vaporu barrier and not duct tape but that will do.
I ended up kicking a hole in the wall by the computer, and my siblings have made it bigger. It's gotten to the point where my dad had to cover it with a poster... It looks simple enough to do it and I'm sure he can help me out of need be. Thanks for posting this, it's super easy to follow!
You can cut the hole to a large enough size to slide in 2 to 4 1"x3" material (furring strips) behind it. Then fasten the furring strips to the existing drywall edges, so that there is surface area to install a new piece of dryall into the hole area. Then use drywall screws to fasten the dyrwall patch to the 1x3s.
The beveled edge is for allowing the dyrwall tape to sit a bit recessed with the surrounding wall. This way by the time you add the mud layers it is flush with the surrounding wall area.
I have plaster walls a squar hole 5x5 I will use a 2x9 piece of wood place behind center of the hole in wall then counter sink screws into place then cut a 5x5 piece of plywood with quarter inch holes drilled into it so plaster patch will fill & grab into the drilled holes then attach board then fill with plaster no drywall tape is needed tbough better that if wood or the drywall board replacement piece is thinner than original so sits deeper then can not tell area was worked on.
@anutypenterntainment - If you are getting bubbles it is most likely you don't have enough joint compound behind the tape, or your squeezing it out as you fasten the tape on the wall.
Okay I'm confused. The screws don't go into anything but the piece of wall you just put on, how are they holding the drywall piece onto anything? What purpose are they serving? ...
The screws are going into the wall studs. That is why I removed about 0.75 inches of drywall over the studs, so the new piece could sit on top of half the width of the wall studs.
My Fiance' and i just bought our first home. It was a foreclosure and there is probably 5 good size holes in the dry way throughout the house! Thanks to this video ill be able to get them all patched up this weekend! =)
@jjlwis No, I cut the paper side and I installed the paper side outwards. It may seem that I did the opposite, but that is only because the new piece of drywall was not painted and had a darker appearance.
If the pipe is close up to a wall, e.g. baseboard heating element pipe, then just notch the very edge of the drywall. The notch won't be seen once there is a heating element cover over it. If it is in the middle of a wall, then you don't have much of a choice. You will need to splice around it.
Thanks for this great video. One question - do you allow the joint compound to dry after the second coat and before applying the skim coat? It doesn't look like it in the video, but that part might just not have been included. Thanks again.
Over the years I have had to cut openings to access interior walls. I gave up cutting to the center of a joist. You don't mention it, but doing that can be a bad experience. You will run into drywall nails or screws with your knife/saw and will butcher the straight cut edging. If the opening will be big, then I will follow the edge of the joist, and in repair, will insert a 1"X2" board along the side of the joist. Obviously not here because of the vapor barrier.
Did you meant stud, instead of joist? In the video he was cutting to the center of the vertical studs. I guess that would still involve nails or screws though. And do you add this other board on both sides when two studs frame the opening?
This is nearly the exact repair I have in front of me, the only difference is mine will be at an inside corner. Should I remove and replace the corner tape?
Good video! I was wondering if this would help if my basement drywall has gone soft and I was thinking of making a hole just to the soft spots out. I had flooding issues before and the root cause of the flood has been dealt with (i hope). If not, can you direct me to a link in your video archive which would show me how to fix it?
You should wait until the joint compound is totally white, which should take about 24 hours, depending upon temperature, humidity, and how thick you applied the joint compound.
Hi, I have an orange peel textured wall, and I was wondering if cutting the wall would actually help because it cracks easily. It looks like there's a thin wall of orange peel texture over dry wall. If I were to paint over the plaster, would it look weird? I have a feeling it might look too smooth for the orange peel texture.
You completely missed the step I'm looking for, the step where you insert the drywall screws. Do you drill a hole through the drywall before you insert the screw, or did you just screw right into the drywall carefully? Thank you in advance if you answer this before I screw it up lol.
You screw directly into the new drywall piece, and the new drywall piece sits on a 0/75 inch lip on the studs. I cut back the opening such that half the stud widths are exposed.
@KCTseng1 You can either do the same process if you've already cut out the drywall or you can make a smaller square or rectangular hole and place furring strip pieces behind the hole edges. The furring strip pieces are installed so that you create a lip to attach the new piece of patch drywall to.
does it matter what side you cut... i noticed you cut the face of the drywall... NON Brown side. also.. you inserted the drywall Brown side OUT... is this normal, or does it matter?
my family just moved into a new apartment and today my sister body hit a wall by mistake now there a big hole in the wall. theres nothing behind the dry wall no wood or insillation ( probably why it broke so easily) it's like they just proped the dry wall up and painted it, but anyway the hole is really big how would i fix a dry wall hole like this that has nothing behind it to srew the dry wall into?
thanks freind i accidently broke a huge hole of dry wall in my closet its so fragile that a little bit of pressure punctured it and now im covering it with a poster away from my mom i dont know wen im going to fix it
i kicked a giant hole in my wall, i measured how big it is and how big of a square i need to make to cut it to acess the studs, it is really high up and your video is a whole on the ground, should i just use the same teqnique as you, the whole is about 19 inches by 12 inches
I had a leak in my roof. Had to cut out a 2' x 2' square. My question is how to you create a recessed perimeter so that the tape sits in this recess and allow you to have perfectly flush finish. Every job I have done and seen like this you can always still see the perimeter bumped out. Can you cut and remove the drywall paper, exposing just the chalk then mud that, then apply a perimeter of tape? Or perhaps I could try and compress the perimeter of the hole the width of drywall tape so that my tape sits in the recess? Maybe use a metal roller of some sort? Am I trying to reinvent the wheel here?
how do I repair a wall in which is a thick wall of plaster and drywall together, and holes been cut out for electrical work but there's no studs for support.
@clghitis1 Glad to hear it went well. If you get a chance go to HomeAdditionPlus website and give the site a thumbs up with the Facebook "Like" Button on the top right of any page on the site!
Bitofinger, Sign Up for my HomeAdditionPlus.com newsletter and get helpful home remodeling and home improvement tips from me every month. Sign up here: www.homeadditionplus.com/Subscribe-to-Newsletter.htm
Then you'll have to try and match it. You might be able to use a slightly loosened amount of joint compound. Look up skip troweling. If there is sand in your texture you could add some sand to the joint compound before spreading it over the patch with a trowel/taping knife.
how do you recommend retexturing a wall that was damaged in a large area that had texturing. I don't know the style of texturing exactly but is evenly flat but raised plateau looking affairs(lack terminology on this) not the kind that is lumpy or sharp. The housing here in Oklahoma often have textured white sheetrock not smooth. my home was built in 1970 but has been redone with walls that are textured by previous owner I cannot contact him on the style he used. he moved out 6 years ago.