Not a smart thing to do if it melted the switch what makes you think it will not melt the wire splice you just made it will catch on fire for sure. Just take it back to store and report it to be investigated, You never know you could save some lives.
Thank you for this video, sir. Hopefully I'll be able to fix my portable heater with the method you've demonstrated. Also, I feel like you and Ron Swanson would be BFFs. :D
thanks for the awesome video, I've managed to fix a space heater with a faulty safety switch (overturning protection) based on it, it kept turning off randomly for a few seconds even on perfectly level ground. took out the safety switch, spliced and soldered the wires together, bit of insulation, it works perfectly now... even when held upside down :D
Thank you. I do a lot of repairs myself. I didn't know the fuse would be in the "brain" of a unit like the one you demonstrated on. I thought they would put them always in the plug but I guess not. I would like to see a video on checking fuses if you have time. THANK YOU!
Bottom line: don't ever, ever, EVER leave one of these heaters running if no one is going to be at home (or wherever it's used). Not to knock China, but some of the appliances from there seem to have these issues; I had a similar problem with a Patton® PHR11 heater--no heat, just cool air blowing...opened it up and discovered a wire that had burned. Used a jumper wire to bridge the gap; coils heated up...replaced burned section with 16 gauge wire, blew all dust away and it is working properly, but it will NEVER be left unattended.
Exactly. I counsel people to unplug any portable heating device that is not actually in use and supervised, including space heaters, toasters, coffee brewers, toaster ovens, boot/mitten dryers, hair blowers, curling irons, etc. Why trust you home/life/family to a 38-cent switch made by slave children in some nameless town and probably never tested?
its funny and sad how naive people can be. Theyre all like "but we have regulations to protect us in manufacturing it safely and they cant sell an unsafe heater" BULLSHIT, theres no safety regulations when purchasing items from china! Most chinese electronics dont have a ground, and when they do have a grounded cord, its not even connected inside the unit!
Firsrt off, great video. Informative and thanks for the warning with the base of possible fire risk. Never know whats lurking inside these things. Your video was the first among the search of portable heaters blowing cold air. And I havent diagnosed mine yet so not sure if it is a fuse...but before I do any idea why it might be blowing cold air? It has two switches one for fan/speed control the other for heat/cold which seems to have no effect.
i cringe every time i see someone drive screws back in with a power tool especially into plastic. it cuts a new thread into the bore and wears it out making it fail / fall apart faster. use a manual screwdriver and not a power driver and make sure to turn the screw counter clockwise with light downward pressure until you feel the threads 'bump' on the thread path in the bore, then drive the screw back in on the same thread it came out from.
I thought the same thing, having watched people strip the holes (or the cheap aluminum screws) and wonder how that happened. The reverse until "bump", then righty-tighty is also a good hint.
They do “cheaply parts” on purpose. My father is an electrician and he always finds some incredibly low quality part in whatever he repairs that does not go with the rest of the product. These are designed so the products don’t last too long or barely pass the warranty time lol
Buy a heavy duty switch at the hardware store! Do the same for the fuse! Clean the fan and any filter you may find (if any). Twist and solder the wires together, do not use wire nuts as they can loosen over time due to vibration and use heat shrink insulating tubes to be safe. Disclaimer follows: I am not responsible for your mistakes or the manufacturer's stupidity.
I'm pretty sure I have the same heater as the one shown in this video and it has a sticker stating that it shouldn't be opened. Should I still try and work on it?
I just recently opened up a box with the comfort zone tower heater which looks exactly like the heater that you're demonstrating. The heater lasted from January 1st to January 15th and this is straight out the box. I took the back off. The fuse was soldered to the unit housing. It looked intact as I attempted to take the screws off from the bottom as you did the check the off and on circuitry. The screws are really soft and started to give I was only able to get two screws off. The way the fuse is soldered it's unreplaceable and I can't get the screws off from the bottom to even check the circuitry it's just another cheap piece of Chinese crap
Great vid, my trouble is the fan on my small red stone ceramic heater isnt turning. It's the 2nd one that the fan isnt turning. The heater element heats up. Makes a buzzing noise but the fan doesnt turn on bother heaters. I love this red stone ceramic heater but both fans stopped turning, any suggestions? Thank you.
I recently have my Lasko Ceramic heater, purchased 2004. The power button melted AND the oscillating stopped. The oscillating was a simple 60 Hertz motor that seized up and pulled enough current to destroy the power switch (stayed OFF). I took it apart after drilling out the keyed screw.. The switch was too far gone to replace. I have had two Lasko FANS that failed the oscillator motor. Lasko will not sell that motor.
I have a soleil ceramic heater and one of the prongs seems to have overheated and plastic melted at the base. Heater no longer works. Any fixing solutions?
***CORRECTION TO MY PREVIOUS COMMENT*** The problem that I had occurred with a Patton® PRH8 heater--NOT the PHR11 as mentioned earlier. Refer to my video under PRH8 repair for details...
I appreciate the help. I have a Vornado Air and I believe it is the power switch and High power switch. As you mentioned the metal glass part, I see the two parts are burnt on mine. Can I use the Ohms meter without cutting it off or do I need to cut it off to read it?
My bet is that most such heaters have no internal fuse at all. They are designed to blow the breaker on the branch circuit if something shorts inside. Unless the UL standard requires a fuse or other "overcurrent" protection, the vendors save money by leaving it out. Of course, nothing prevents them from exceeding the legally required minimum safety requirements.
Looking to replace the thermal switch/cutoff switch on a space heater. What would be the most common cutoff temperature for that replacement thermal switch?
This style space heater does NOT have a glass fuse like the one you show towards the end. It's a ceramic style fuse, and there is no way to remove it that I can see. It has one small wire that comes out each end and is soldered into the top board. I do not understand why Kenmore produces such crap, oh wait, forgive me, I do. They WANT IT TO BREAK the moment the warranty is up so your FORCED to buy a new one. Wish they would learn is that all they do is piss off people like myself so that we will NEVER purchase ANYTHING made by Kenmore. Oh and I see they have had other space heaters that were on the market that had similar FIRE HAZARD issues, and had to recall them. Just plain JUNK.
Just because the "warranty is up" doesn't mean they can't be asked to repair, replace or refund your money. In theory, it was defective the day they sold it, meaning it "failed" during the warranty period. Let them try to prove otherwise, if that's their defense.
How do i turn off the thermostat cut off on a electric space heater, i know it has contact switch can see it but how can i just make it stay on with out cutting off and on? I hate that when it cuts off and on
The whole purpose of a thermostat is to "cut off" a heating element's power when it gets hot enough to satisfy the requested temperature. They are designed with a MAXIMUM safe temperature for your safety. If the thermostat fails in the "on" condition (or is foolishly bypassed), there may still be a 38-cent safety switch to prevent the unit from exploding with flaming oil and burning down your house. You trust your house (and life) to a 38-cent switch that may have never been tested and might not actually work as required?
Coudl you please tell me what is that part that looks like a little pen cap (in the middle, connecting 2 wires). They all melt in my heaters. At minute 2.5 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ULmS3Kp29LI.htmlm50s
In the state of Massachusetts, the warranty on consumer products is a minimum of 6 years, i.e., you (or the AG's office of Consumer Protection) can sue them for selling you a defective product unless they repair, replace or refund.
There will ALWAYS be a "safety issue" if you open a hatch that says "WARNING: No user serviceable parts inside." Bypassing a switch means, at the very least, that the "disconnecting means" for safety defaults to the cord and plug attachment to the receptacle. Pulling or inserting the plug on a device running at 13.5 amps could produce sparks and reduce the life of the receptacle.
Dunno, I think I'd have tossed that unit. The main problem with these is that they're made in China - most of those are a fire waiting to happen. I personally use older heaters made here in the USA. Often all they need is a good cleaning, the fan motor gets oiled and the electrical components are inspected (and replaced if needed). These older units are also all metal - which won't burn like this plastic garbage.
+D Burr78g10 I agree with you about plastic space-heaters, no way. Metal, if properly built/maintained, is safer. Unfortunately, a lot of the metal space-heaters come with a 2-prong plug/ungrounded.....another safety hazard.
The best tactic is to ADD a 3-prong plug to any metal-device that does not have one. If you have a GFCI and plug a 2-pronged plug into it, the GFCI will be tripped when YOU become the path to earth, not good......best to trip that GFCI as soon as a ground-fault is present.
@@tickyul Yes, that's the whole point. If there is a ground-fault before YOU become the ground-fault, then the GFCI trips, rather than you getting a ride in an ambulance. A GFCI device needs no "ground" of its own and is a recommended upgrade when replacing any two-prong receptacle that lacks a ground.
Hi there GuruBrew, I have a electric portable heater or space heater that has one of those built in thermostats to it and a sensor or whatever there made of but have not had good luck buying these products. recently the last portable electric heater or space heater i bought i needed to use for my bedroom for Fall and Winter and want to keep my bedroom at least 60 degrees F so i bought one of those electric or portable electric space heaters trusting that if i set the temp to 60 degrees for the thermostat on that heater that it will only turn on when the temp goes anywhere below 60 degrees F and then when it turned on it worked fine the first day but then after that the heater turned on and kept running and running and never turned off and made my bedroom to hot to the point that i had to get up in the middle of the night to nights in a row to turn that darn thing off. I have seen some youtube videos on another channel people saying you can buy one of those regular fernis thermostats that goes on your house wall and re wire a portable electric heater or space heater and wire one of these type of thermostats to any portable electric heater or space heater. Do you know how to do that or what i will need to do so? those type of thermostats are a lot more trust worthy and won't ;let me down. I need to have something that i can fully trust that won't all the sudden fail or fault somehow and let me down. that heater is to also protect the pipes in my bedroom sealing from freezing as well and from my bedroom getting any colder than 60 degrees F.
You can't just rewire it with a regular thermostat you might be able to use a thermostat for a baseboard heater inline on the power cord in a handy box or use regular thermostat combined with a relay rated for the proper voltage and ampes.
