Dave I have tank panels with decals on that I’m repainting. They’re pin strips should I replace with new decals or just paint pin stripes on for a more quality finish?
Depends if you want a flat finish in the clear. The decals will give a raised line. Painted lines can be sanded smooth and re cleared. More work but a better finish. Hope this helps.
You send something off to get painted and you know its going to look nice when you get it back. But to open the box and see how amazing that turned out would be like Christmas morning. Always a good thing to wake up and see a CSM video.
Dave, I have been watching your videos since the early days, and man, they just keep getting better! This project came out bloody awesome man! Can't wait for the next video 🤙
Ive been going nuts trying to avoid that flash rust after drying. Im glad to see even you got the flash rust. I think ill just concentrate on drying it, ignore that flash rust, and go for the liner.
Looks absolutely amazing!! One question: Isn‘t it necessary to sand the dried base coat before applying the next Color or the clear? I just want to understand..thanks in advance!
Looks awesome. Why did you cover the entire tank in gold paint for that single 1/4 inch line? I have a 1/8th inch gold line that divides the two other colors (on a 60's Triumph tank). This is my first attempt at painting... I figured I'd spray some gold where the 5 inch line is going to be then put tape over it and paint the rest of the tank After watching this I'm wondering if I need to do a base coat of gold like you did.
Amazing job!! Did you use degreaser after put on the tape before the next coat? How Does that work with te tape on it? Thanks for this very helpfull video!
I was stoked to see you using 3D products. Even more so surprised to see you with them in Australia. I love their compounds. Following your preparation, painting and post-painting techniques (esp with the detailing component included) gives me confidence I can do the same with my own automotive project. Cheers.
As I said on Dan's channel - that looks absolutely stunning - like it's made out of glass. Bloody amazing work. It would be interesting to know how many hours this took in total?
Hey friend, would you please consinder making a video of you testning out, the "car-rep 2k clear" in an aerosol can. I have heard it should be able to achieve similar results as an ordinary 2k clear in a aerosol can, but without the need of activating it in the bottom, and therefore also giving it almost unlimited shelf life. I know it is a bit unrelated to this video, but hope thats okay.😅 Best regards Rasmus 😄
I love that you are as particular as I am. This is exactly how I work. I love the extra tips, seriously, thanks! I also needed this video for both of my scooters that were previously painted with 1k,(not by me), then dinged and hit by cars while parked.
I have just discovered your channel coming from his video , all i got to say is the amount of skill and detail in this video is just remarkable i'll def be referring back to it on my own projects , awesome work 👌
Heya Darren, Thanks for doing all these great videos mate! Can you clarify the 2 pack and 1 pack painting systems and mixing. I'm a little confused, so hoping you can clarify my confusion. 1. Base coat, is this simply normal automotive acrylic paint mixed with thinners or a special automotive paint that is formulated just for 2 pack clear? 2. Do we sand after applying base coats before clear? 3. So after applying the basecoat (and sanding if its done), you apply a top coat, 2 pack clear right? and this is mixed with a hardener, is that the case? 4. Is colour sanding and buffing absolutely necessary for that super factory or better shine or can be finished off the gun? Cheers Darren, any help greatly appreciated Mate, keep up the great work, If O was on your side of the country I would definitely buy a course from you.
Hello everything you say is correct. Except don’t sand the basecoat at all. Only if you have defects in it. Then you would need to spray another coat of base over it.