Johan, over the years I have given up on teak plywood. For the effort and the end results, damaged teak plywood has only one possible solution and that's to sand and paint it provided its structurally sound. On this boat all the teak plywood has been gotten rid of and replaced with composites. Original solid teak wood trim has been refinished and will be a nice classic accent against a white background.
@@motorcityboatwerks I have a 42ft Grand Banks and most of its interior is varnished teak plywood. The water damaged vaneer would be nice to sand and paint but I fear it will deviate too much from the original look. Perhaps sand, fair and glue a new layer of thin vaneer on top of it is an option. Your restored wood parts looks awesome btw, good job! Great video.
I just bought a 1978 boat with lots and lots of teak. I'm not sure the deck can be saved, but I will try. The rails and trim, for sure thanks for the lesson and supplies!
I have been following you since Andy from Boatworks Today recommended your. I’m rebuilding my Wellcraft V20. Anyway I bought a used teak outdoor patio furniture set that needs repair and refinishing. I did a general Google search and this episode popped up. Just ordered Sikkens. Thank you!!!
Regarding snapped off screws etc: way back in the day my grandfather was a carpenter on the railroad. He taught me to run the screw through my hair to give it a bit of oil. That was when men / boys used Brylcreem hair cream. No hair today but a swipe across a block of bees wax does the job.
This would have helped the crack from the screw into the teak for sure! But i find the density of epoxy challenges even the best lubricants and the stainless often cannot cut the necessary threads
There are several other Sikkens Cetol products for decking and other woods. It’s a brand with many product lines. Check your diy big box stores and online for more information. The product in the video is for teak and marine applications.
Great ideas but I have more a little food for thought maybe drill the screw hole out and fill with Epoxy like you would with fiberglass to seal the hole. You come back and drill again to put the screw in so the screw is screwed to epoxy and then top it off with a bung.
This is a great idea and perhaps a solid solution for fastenings less than 1/2" long. Screwing into epoxy can be challenging with stripped heads, twisted shanks etc. Maybe its just me but I have repeatedly snapped off stainless screws trying to screw into drilled epoxy.
@@motorcityboatwerks oops let me come back around. You drill a large hole and then after it sets up you come back and pre-drill the hole for the screw so your left with just a little bit of lining around the hole of epoxy. those are the things you want to do for fiberglass to keep the water out from penetrating your core
Yes I’ve heard this mantra before. Have you actually tried it? This is like the Don Casey Allen wrench in the drill chuck. I’ve tried this and remain skeptical. 🤨
I get this question a lot. Unfortunately it’s more complicated than just a simple answer. It depends on what the boat is made of, the quality of finish desired, money, time, and the amateurs skill/confidence level. I recommend you become a member of The Werkers, with whom I often discuss their projects one on one via email. 😎
