SEATTLE WASHINGTON PAINTING COMPANY, INTEGRITY FINISHING, INC. "NEAT, CLEAN & COMPLETE SINCE 1986" Your full service painting contractor. BOAT TEAK REPAIR
Just wanted to let you know, I have refinished the exterior teak on my sailboat using your technique and the products you recommend. The results are flawless! Thank you so much!
Great Video! Got out of boating for 10 years. New boat needs the teak refinished as well as a section that needs replaced from sitting for years. Thanks!
Great video! Thank you for the thorough explanation of what you were doing. The final product looks great. If you do another video, I hope you'll slow down the movement of the camera.
I have one word for you my friend FESTOOL worth every penny in you line of work 95 percent dustles. His niebors might be upset with you sanding all day but hey it looks great
Here is how I do epic bright work in three days start to finish: 1. Apply 3 coats of West system epoxy with 207 hardener. 207 has UV inhibitors and is engineered as a clear base coat in high UV environments. All three coats can be done in one day without sanding in between. Lightly sand the last coat with 320 and wipe down with acetone. You are now ready to varnish. 2. Apply three coats of Epifanes gloss varnish allowing 24 hours between coats. Sand with 320 between coats. Epifanes clear gloss varnish has been around about 100 years using the same formula. This will give you the material thickness of about 8 coats of varnish in a lot less time. I am a recreational boater and have achieved outstanding results doing this. Try it on boat accessories like wooden oars. The toughness and abrasion resistance is amazing. For boats that are stored outside in the weather, canvas hand rail / hatch / toe rail covers do an incredible job of preserving varnished surfaces. Maintenance will be reduced dramatically. The covers are easily removed when it's time to go cruising or just entertaining dockside. Your preparation was meticulous but I was surprised that you did not pop out the screws holding the trim pieces at the transom corners. Always better to do this to varnish underneath easily removed hardware. Cetol is good option, but tends to go orange and get muddy looking after a while.
I don’t like brushes when working with wood finish, it leaves behind brush stroke impressions. I use paint sponges, it looks like a bowling alley floor. Very detailed instructions and informative video, well done.
David, great job Sir!!! Outstanding actually, she really looks great! I've never heard of the Chroma clear!! Looks very nice, what's the wear time on CC vs varnish, can you sand and re-coat every so often?? I am going to try to find more info on the product!! I'm restoring a 1981 Falmouth Cutter 31 lots and lots of trim, after using varnish on some parts happy with it but the work load is in real.. sh had been setting out in the weather for years when I found her and I've been restoring her since November 2019, finally got most all of the black stains out of good part of the wood and had a trillion hair line crack in the deck, got all of that done per west systems guide.... Bout to start the main stripping and sanding of the side the trim!! Anyway I'm not complaining, I love the project, thank God for RU-vid and professionals as yourself!! I appreciate all your help, going to subscribe to your channel, I need all the help I can get lol! Fair winds, Doug
Beautiful work. I have a few questions before I attempt this same job on my boat. Did you remove all of the stainless rails forward before refinishing.? How did you clean between coats of clear coat? What kind of brush did you use for applying the clear coat? Thanks!!!
What did you use for the stripper? I'm getting ready to re-do the exterior and interior teak on my new (to me) boat, a 1973 Tartan. The exterior teak is pretty rough. The interior teak is ok, but will get stripped, sanded and re-finished, hopefully using this technique (unless there's something else for interior teak). I was told this weekend not to sand my exterior teak (no varnish left at all - all grey) but to use a pumice stone. Every hear of this? Do you agree? How should I prepare teak that's completely grey and devoid of any varnish?
Great work, wish you were on the East Coast, I would be calling you for my boat. Can you tell me what is your typical drying time of the teak stain? Also, what is the drying time between your stripping process? Lastly, overall, is this something I could do in one day or do I need multiple days to assure for no wet wood at onset of the project? Not too much teak on my boat, about the same amount in your video. Thanks - Capt. Dave
Nice video. Are you still using the chromaclear. Its been a couple years since this video. I have a boat and it has teak swim steps. I'm going to finish them. They constantly get wet. Any recommendations?
Hi David. Thanks for the very detailed video. I’m still on the stripping step. I’m up to trying to do the stripper 6 times and I still have lots of varnish remaining. I’m using the brand you recommended and have even sanded between steps with 80 grit but still lots of original varnish remains. Any thoughts? Another brand? Thanks for your reply.
Under cover. It lasted 5 years. Hard finishes fail because the teak fails the coating, wood moves. Open up Fishers in the film, water gets in and lifts the finish, if you want a easy protection finish. Strip, sand,brighten, apply 3 coats of teak oil, condition as needed by a light sand, then apply teak oil again
Depends on storage conditions, full exposure is about as good the others, the wood fails the coating, wood moves, cracks the top coat, water smells the wood. Full exposure a soft finish like teak oil is best because its easy to maintain.
