Very good video. Jake: I have a Pentair 78458100 pool lite. I removed the light fixture and replaced the bulb with a new Pentair crystalite white LED. Added new gaskets to the lens and reassembled. On the dunk test, everything was watertight, EXCEPT where the power cord enters the housing at the back, there were very tiny bubbles, like 1/2 mm coming out at the cable gland and i could bend the power cord and make a few come out. without movement, maybe a bubble every 5 seconds, so very slow. Question, with this very tiny leak, is there a way to replace the cable gland with a new water tight model or should I just coat it well with aquarium silicone rubber sealant and retest for leak after curing. I have to have to spend hundreds plus hours on a new fixture for an itty bitty tiny issue.
That is a very good question. First off nice job getting everything replaced. If it were up to me, I would replace the entire housing due to the electrical hazard. If you fix it and it leaks again, you could have stray, electricity connect to the water and cause, potentially deadly consequences. Obviously I hope that you have a GFCI system that will back you up in case this was whoever happened and shut off the power. But you don’t want to lean on such as safety device like that. I highly suggest you don’t use silicone aquarium sealant. It’s just not good enough for the job. Instead, if you need to do this type of repair, I would get something like a water epoxy. If you search that on Amazon, you’ll see there is underwater, marine epoxy that’s made to withstand harsh conditions (chlorine water) for long periods of time. Silicone aquarium sealant may not last in the chlorine water.
@@fixitwithjake I was hoping there was a cable gland I could purchase which would replace the cable gland used by Pentair to make the seal. I can easily remove the wire from the housing, install a new gland (if I knew which one to purchase) and confirm the proper repair. Any ideas?
I don't have a Junction box.It's straight right into the transformer. I just need to know how to pull that Through the condo it and if it's possible, It should be
I changed our pool light bulb and That did not fix our light-The GFI is good-The Breaker is good-I did notice the Small metal Bulb loop stabilizer looking thing in the bulb holder is snapped off Could that be the problem if that is broke?If not how can I tell if the bulb holder is bad?Im not sure what else it could be-Thanks for any help!
Buy some crc contact cleaner and spray the bulb holder. Left it out for a day to dry. Next day reassembled it and then tested for leaks by submerging it in a 5 gallon bucket of pool water and put bricks on it. Left it in the bucket outside the pool and tested it for a day. Next day checked for leaks again then Installed in the niche
That is why I recommend to people to still buy the older style housing that opens up so you can replace the bulb yourself with an LED version. So instead of buying the same thing again, that will fail by an incandescent style light housing and put in a $50 LED bulb that you can swap out every few years. That should save you a lot of money down the road. But sorry that your light failed. If you go to my other RU-vid channel, called ThePoolProfessor, I explained how to open up this style light and how to replace the LED driver, which is also another way to repair your currently system. Check it out. Let me know.
Hello JAKE quick question is there a reason why my spa light will turn on from my in-house remote it stays on for about three seconds and then it shuts off any knowledge and why this is happening
Welcome! I have another video on doing what you want. You don’t need to add a transformer. You can buy a 120V LED that will take your lower draw from 500 watts a bulb down to 45 watts. So no need to go through the step of switching to low voltage and adding a transformer with those bulbs. They have both color and normal white versions. amzn.to/3ODVBRy
Yes, but the pipe goes above ground so the water never spills out. And it is a waterproof cable made for this. And your electrical system should be grounded and have GFCI to shut off power if there is a fault.
we have the pentair intellibrite 12 volt fixture. bulb is dimming off after approx 15 seconds. aftermarket recommendations so we do not have to replace entire fixture?
My control can control Jandy and Pentair lights. Currently the pools has Pentair lights with Pentair niches. Can a jandy WaterColors light attach to the Pentair niche?
Yes. But don’t take my word for it, Jandy specifies that it does in the overview here www.jandy.com/en/products/pool-lights/niched-lighting/watercolors-led-gen-2#:~:text=WaterColors%20LED%20RGBW%20Pool%20and%20Spa%20Lights,-Energy%2Defficient%20pool&text=WaterColors%20are%20ETL%20classified%20and,as%20well%20as%20Jandy%20ProNiches.
Do you have a video where there is a leak where the cord attaches to the pool light and water is getting into the housing and causing the breaker to pop?
That is a failure of the light housing. Consider it broken. You can try using special pool putty first. But if that died t work then you’ll need to replace the light all together and I have a video on that process below. amzn.to/3LzaO5S
Jake, do you happen to know what Pool Light I can purchase to replace my current pool light (it's old, it might be from 1978!) which is a Purex Model 100-3 Forming Shell No. 425? Thanks!
Thank you for correcting me. Most of the 12V lights and transformers for pools are in fact AC and not DC. Be sure to select AC on your meter when measuring the voltages.
Second question and thank you again. After the wire leaves the fixture, it runs through the niche and into the conduit. Is that hole in the niche (that the wire is running through) supposed to be plugged or sealed water tight so pool water doesnt leak through it? Thank you😢 i feel like giving up.
Hi Jake, I cannot find a link to "replacement driver" as you indicated in the video. Where can I buy just the driver component vs. the $1k entire replacement? We have the Pentair Intellibrite that is starting to fail. It'll hold one color for a few hours, then magically start cycling thru other colors. Not always, but most nights. Light is on a daily auto schedule, on a 8pm, off at midnight. Thank you. Andrew.
The sellers keep changing the links on me. Here is one for the color version. If you need the white one, just google the same thing, but ask for white. amzn.to/4cEV3Gc
@@fixitwithjake Thank you, Jake. In your opinion, do you feel a random-ish changing color scenario is indicative of a failing driver, and likely the whole driver board should be replaced? Or is there a possibility it could be a rusting 'ground' or other that I saw in another YT video -- they citing a 'flickering' light, not a color changing condition. Curious what you thought. Of course, it seems to make sense to first remove and inspect the board assy before ordering this [$500+] replacement part, just in case. Thanks again! Andrew.
@MoreauFarm that is a tough one. I’m not sure to be honest with you. It sounds more like programming or remote issue. I would start simple and get more complex as you dig into it. I wish I could tell you more.
First question and thank you ahead of time. Behind the light fixture is a compression nut that screws over a plastic threaded tube that the wire runs through. My tube is moving within the metal housing because the nut was over tightened. Can water get in there and cause the gfci to trip? (It is tripping because the gasket failed and the inside housing filled with water) I cant loosen the nut because the tube is turning with it within the metal housing. How can that be sealed? Im sure theres water in there and they didnt leave me enough wire to get the light on the deck. I have to have someone hold the light over the water level to change the bulb. Ugh!
More than likely the GFCI‘s tripping because the gasket failed, and the water can touch live electricity from the metal wires and lightbulbs outlet. It is doing its job to protect you. Now, if the nut is broken, and water is leaving the niche and entering the conduit in the ground, it’s not the end of the world. Because that large plastic cable is designed to be watertight. Think about it after 20 years that conduit is going to have a few cracks and leakage is Doodoo tree roots, etc. and eventually water will probably enter the conduit at some point. So that cable is decided to be watertight. Now is it ideal? That pool water is sitting in there with a wire? No. But I’m not sure I would Work too hard to stop all of that unless it is causing the GFCI’s to trip after you replace the gasket and now it’s working properly. I think the only way it would be tripping the GFCI is if the water take cable had a break in it, and electricity was touching the water. To repair the leak on the back of the niche the best patch would be to use for designed underwater putty which you push and cover the leakage area and it will hold tight and hard and overtime. It’s specifically designed for this. I will send you a link to an example.
Hi Jake! My Intellibrite 619820 (white) bulb stopped working. I unplugged and took it out to inspect...but don't notice any signs of overheating. It "looks" good as new. Can I use my multimeter to test it?
Do you know if it’s getting electricity from the transformer? Use multimeter to check that you’re getting powered to the light fixture. And if it’s not, then I would trace backwards towards switches or a GFCI that may be tripped. Or breaker. But if it is getting then LED fixture.
we have the pentair intellibright lights in pool and spa. The pool light stays red and will not go to any other color. The spa will still go through the colors. Any idea why its only red in the pool light and what I need to fix it?
WHAT WAS THAT COIL LOOKING THING IN THE BACK OF THAT LIGHT HOUSING?? I DON'T HAVE ONE ON MY HAYWARD ASTROLITE..... ALSO WHAT TYPE OF LED BULB DO YOU RECOMMEND, I'M TIRED OF PAYING OVER $300 EACH TIME MINE DIES....
I did a video on all the different bulbs. I’ll put a link here. I’m not sure if that metal thing is it has something to do maybe with grounding the housing or reducing heat not sure. Bulbs here: LED Pool Bulb Review. How much do they cost $ to run every night? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BsaGqDi5htk.html
We have the Pentair intelibrite, you’re correct it died 1 months ago after the warranty expired. Are you saying I have to use that same light? I want a new LED system with a bulb instead. Can I do that?
Oh that’s unfortunate. But I have heard that story quite a bit. You have two options. You can open up that intellibrite and replace the “driver” board inside which is the part that goes bad. I have a video on how to do that. They’re about three $400 but it’s gonna fail again potentially. Otherwise what I suggest for people is to replace the entire housing with a more basic version called Amerilite that has the screw in lightbulb that you can change your own led lightbulbs easily. This way they will last a lot longer too. I’m going on three years on that same LED bowl with no issues and it runs every night. I have a video on changing the bulb in the Ameri light table will link below. amzn.to/4e8avf1
While rare, there could be a number of reasons. You need to make sure you change the gasket every time you replace the bulb and so if you reuse the old gasket or if there was an issue with the new gasket water could leak back in and short it out. First question did it tripped the GFCI breaker? Or did it just go out? You could also have a defective bulb if you didn’t buy a quality one and there was just a defect in the manufacturing process. But I would start on those two things. Let me know what happens.
@@fixitwithjake GFCI did not trip and the bulb I bought was from the pool store. The last bulb didn't last even a year after the pool was built but it was dry when I opened it up.
@shery2146 well those are all good signs. So it must just be the bulbs are failing on you. Summer made pretty cheaply and there’s no way to cool them off inside the housing if they don’t have their own internal fan. One of the bulbs I recommend in the video is the one with the active cooling little electric fan inside of it. So you might want to try that one if you haven’t already done so. Otherwise the good news is you know how to replace it and it’s not that difficult and once a year 50 $60 is not the end of the world. Other people are spending $800-$1000 every three or four years for their LED Pentair and Hayward housings. I.
No, you do not need to drain the pool for any of this. If there’s no longer wire there, you would use a tool called a wire snake and you push that through all the way you tie the cable to the end and you pull it back, whereyou fished the Snake. amzn.to/4bkWfhh
