Great videos on pool light upgrades. My pool is 30 yrs old and has 1 light, not working. We tried to unscrew the underwater fixture, but the screw is frozen. I saw 1 video using an underwater drill...I have a battery op drill. Can this be used underwater without damaging the drill?
Yes, but the pipe goes above ground so the water never spills out. And it is a waterproof cable made for this. And your electrical system should be grounded and have GFCI to shut off power if there is a fault.
Great video! Thank you! Hoping to be able to replace the blower on my 2012 Mastercraft X55 in the next day or two, but don’t know where to look for it and hoping I can get it done. How long do you burn the connections for to make sure they are sealed?
You’re going to have to look around and pull a panel or two to be able to find your blower. This is easier done when the sun is down and it’s not so hot. Just keep that in mind. I burn the connections enough until I see the metal inside start to sizzle and melt. And I know I have a good internal soldering connection. I hope that helps.
Jake, do you happen to know what Pool Light I can purchase to replace my current pool light (it's old, it might be from 1978!) which is a Purex Model 100-3 Forming Shell No. 425? Thanks!
Hi Jake, I cannot find a link to "replacement driver" as you indicated in the video. Where can I buy just the driver component vs. the $1k entire replacement? We have the Pentair Intellibrite that is starting to fail. It'll hold one color for a few hours, then magically start cycling thru other colors. Not always, but most nights. Light is on a daily auto schedule, on a 8pm, off at midnight. Thank you. Andrew.
The sellers keep changing the links on me. Here is one for the color version. If you need the white one, just google the same thing, but ask for white. amzn.to/4cEV3Gc
@@fixitwithjake Thank you, Jake. In your opinion, do you feel a random-ish changing color scenario is indicative of a failing driver, and likely the whole driver board should be replaced? Or is there a possibility it could be a rusting 'ground' or other that I saw in another YT video -- they citing a 'flickering' light, not a color changing condition. Curious what you thought. Of course, it seems to make sense to first remove and inspect the board assy before ordering this [$500+] replacement part, just in case. Thanks again! Andrew.
@MoreauFarm that is a tough one. I’m not sure to be honest with you. It sounds more like programming or remote issue. I would start simple and get more complex as you dig into it. I wish I could tell you more.
I broke my actuator, and i replacing new one using your tutorial... I think i did it correctly, but the "parking brake failure l" didint gone... How to reset it? Rotate clockwise right?
Normally they aren’t halogen but just a high powered 300-500 watt incandescent bulb. Pool guys earn their keep getting the job done while your at work and come home to a finished job.
@@fixitwithjake True. I don't mind paying fair price but honestly all the pool guys overcharge. To replace 3 bulbs, the estimate was $1600 and adding a ScreenLogic as well was $2900 almost. Isn't that too high? Labor is like high
@@fixitwithjake yes. You’re right. It was not halogen but some high wattage incandescent. Took a lot of electricity too. Now I’m getting a new pair with fixtures as well because the guy said it’s corroded and let’s water in. I’m hoping the replacement cost of 2 (with wiring and fixture and color changing led bulb will be $1300 or less)
@fr9714 install the same basic type fixture so you can replaced the color Changing led bulbs yourself. Don’t get one of those integrated style housings and led fixtures inside. They fail sooner and are much much more costly to replace than a $60-80 LED bulb.
we have the pentair intellibright lights in pool and spa. The pool light stays red and will not go to any other color. The spa will still go through the colors. Any idea why its only red in the pool light and what I need to fix it?
Hello JAKE quick question is there a reason why my spa light will turn on from my in-house remote it stays on for about three seconds and then it shuts off any knowledge and why this is happening
This video was excellent. Thank you for sharing with us. I did call U.S. Steel to ask about the lubricant and they don’t recommend you use the Dynatex or any other lubricant. He suggested 50/50 water and Dawn. Cure time with this is 20min
My Pentair Mastertemp 250 was displaying the E05 code. SFS measured 3 ohms on my multireader. Ordered a new one anyway which also read 3 ohms. Replaced. No improvement. Put the old one back in and turned the heater off and on 4 times, immediately turning back on after the E05 warning. On the 4th 'on' it continued to work. That was 2 hours ago.
You download software for the camera brand that will search your network. For example support.amcrest.com/hc/en-us/articles/213227938-IP-Config-Software
I own a saltwater pool and bought a new salt cell last year. The salt level reads 3200 for a 30,000 gallon pool. For the past 2 years, I have been adding 1-2 gallons of liquid shock each week because my pool does not hold free chlorine. I had my water tested at a local pool store and they told me I should be adding 3 gallons of liquid shock each week. I added 3 tubs of conditioner to see if that would help hold free chlorine and by the end of the week, 0. Another local store told me my salt generator is not working and needs replaced. If my salt level reads 3200, I assumed the cell and generator are working. If the generator is not working, does the cell still produce salt?
From what you have told me it sounds like your cell generator is not working. It takes your salty water solution, applies electricity, and creates chlorine. When it’s working properly, you should not have to add any liquid chlorine. Some stores have a way of testing it, but I don’t think it’s an easy process for them. If it’s over five years old, it’s probably time to just replace it. Or you could stop using it and just continue to do what you’re doing. The conditioner you added is critical to keeping the chlorine from burning off. It’s basically sunscreen for the chlorine. But do not overdo it always start smaller because if you put too much stabilizer to drain your pool to get it back out because it does not go away. Always air on the side of not having enough. You have a 30,000 gallon pool so you’ll need something like an icy 40 salt cell which is good up to 40,000 gallons. But you will not run it super strong you’ll run it around 50 to 75% and that way it will last longer. Let me know if you have any follow up questions.
@@fixitwithjake thank you for the prompt response. Can I buy a replacement 🤣Hayward circuit board instead of buying the entire unit? Or could the wires be bad? I bought a new screen last year because I couldn't read anything and the lights kept flickering. The screen works now and lights are not flickering. The first year I had the pool, worked great, past 6 years it's been progressivly worse.
No issues to report still. The kids are in the pool turning the lights on and off currently. They love to play with them. I plan to post as soon as one of the lightbulbs fails so at least we have an idea of how long they last
Can anyone point me to detailed information and/or Rivian owner reviews of what Rivian calls the “Trailer Assist” feature? It’s very hard to find information about it online. The Rivian website only says “Helps with reverse maneuvers while you have a trailer attached”. Thanks.
I’ve been towing an 17 ft camper trailer (Safari Condo Alto F1743) for about 20,000 miles over the past 6 years with a Tesla Model X. It increases my cars energy usage by 50 to 100% depending on my speed and the conditions (weather, elevation change, etc). At 55mph on a level, dry road with no headwind the Tesla uses about 320Wh/mi and when towing it is about 485-520Wh/mi. But it works out fine, I just charge more often and there are so many Tesla Superchargers it’s usually pretty easy. The dramatic decrease in the Rivian R1S towing range described in this video is almost entirely due to the very poor aerodynamics of towing that large boat. The shape of the boat creates a massive amount of aerodynamic drag. The weight of the boat and the additional friction of the trailer tires has very little impact except at speeds below about 35mph. Note: the data shown in the video would have been more useful if Jake had done the towing test at 55mph so one could better compare the energy usage towing vs not towing at the same speed. I do not understand why his average speed during towing was only 40mph; you can’t safely go that speed on a freeway. At that speed when towing I am very surprised that the R1S energy usage was so high.
I changed our pool light bulb and That did not fix our light-The GFI is good-The Breaker is good-I did notice the Small metal Bulb loop stabilizer looking thing in the bulb holder is snapped off Could that be the problem if that is broke?If not how can I tell if the bulb holder is bad?Im not sure what else it could be-Thanks for any help!
Buy some crc contact cleaner and spray the bulb holder. Left it out for a day to dry. Next day reassembled it and then tested for leaks by submerging it in a 5 gallon bucket of pool water and put bricks on it. Left it in the bucket outside the pool and tested it for a day. Next day checked for leaks again then Installed in the niche
Our vacuum is not a robot and we have a port on the side of the pool it Hooks to, no skimmer involved. Very easy not a pain at all. Not sure about the UV stuff, a stabilizer works great to preserve your chlorine. If you have a salt system, the system should tell you how much salt is in the pool and as long as you stay in range you are good. The salt DOES NOT stay in the pool, the salt circulates thru and makes chlorine thru the salt Cell so it can and will evaporate if you don't have the pool stabilized to protect it from the sun, if you have alot of rain or when adding water to the pool. But it's not going to need salt weekly, probably not even monthly. New pools are harder, especially if plaster, PH tends to be high and you have to get that under control with acid for everything else to level out. PH balanced, salt/chlorine sufficient and stable, no phosphates in the water you are good to go! Heat, water, phosphates = algae if the chlorine is getting ate up by the sun.
Use a higher quality battery, not Amazon basics garbage. With a Duracell battery, you’ll get closer to 1 year of usage. Yes- batteries have different levels of quality
I have a flashing green for the Cell indicator which says "Inspect cell" I acid cleaned the blades as I always done, but still is flashing only 3yrs. old.
Generally, yes, IR needs Linus site, but for some reason, this thing is so powerful that it works through walls. For example, it is mounted upstairs, but it beams signals through the ceiling and still controls a fan downstairs and one across multiple walls upstairs. I’m not sure about HomeKit as I don’t use that. I would check their website and they will list compatibility.
Thanks for the great review! This is very helpful. We also have a 65 inch TV. What is the depth of your mantle? I will try to compare it with ours. I see when you tilt the TV it almost tilts its till the very end, which seems perfect for your configuration.
We have the Pentair intelibrite, you’re correct it died 1 months ago after the warranty expired. Are you saying I have to use that same light? I want a new LED system with a bulb instead. Can I do that?
Oh that’s unfortunate. But I have heard that story quite a bit. You have two options. You can open up that intellibrite and replace the “driver” board inside which is the part that goes bad. I have a video on how to do that. They’re about three $400 but it’s gonna fail again potentially. Otherwise what I suggest for people is to replace the entire housing with a more basic version called Amerilite that has the screw in lightbulb that you can change your own led lightbulbs easily. This way they will last a lot longer too. I’m going on three years on that same LED bowl with no issues and it runs every night. I have a video on changing the bulb in the Ameri light table will link below. amzn.to/4e8avf1
I have two bulbs in my pool. The left one does not come on at all. The right on turns on a single red LED only. Do you think it’s a bulb issue or electrical issue? (Best guess)
@HeyStripes secure the power by turning off the breaker. Remove one of the housings and put it on the side of the pool. Figure out what model number you’re dealing with for the housing. Order a new gasket. Open it up and put in a two dollar lightbulb or just steal one from your house. If the basic 120 V lightbulb works and that’s the system that you have then there’s nothing wrong with your housing or your electrical supply. If the lightbulb doesn’t work double check that you have 120V system and not a 12V system. Use a $10 multimeter.
@@fixitwithjake awesome. Thanks for the tip. I just looked at the lights and they are a much smaller size than in this video. The bulb is only about 3” wide
@@fixitwithjake also…dumb question time: with both of my bulbs not turning on, is there such a thing as a waterproof voltage tester? Just to be sure the power is truly off. (Some of the breakers in my house are not yet labeled so it’s a bit of a guessing game which is bad when mixed with pools haha)
