I also appreciate your video. I'm going to check my thermostat real soon to see if that little thing is popped up. Darn it's always something going wrong. Thanks Keith
Good video ,Testing for 120-230 Volt AC at Heater disconnect connector with defrost timer in manual is a good final test to determine the heater ohm /continuity test is correct, As often these videos are for DIY people and caution required when doing 120-240 v tests . If a correct voltage is found at the female side of the disconnect connector and the heater is then plugged back in it should feel warm /hot to touch ,Cold and heater is definitely shot
For those out there with a three wire defrost thermostat. In my case a Maytag that is discontinued, and a very expensive aftermarket stat $70. One wire that comes out of the stat off to itself is for a fan delay. You can eliminate this by cutting that wire and wire nut it sealed with silicone. Then buy a cheap two wire thermostat, and splice your plugs to these two wires, one to the wall plug, and the other to the heater plug, with wirenuts and silicone, and it will work like a charm. At least mine did. Between the cost of the thermostat and a cheap $15 timer I saved over a hundred dollars. You can even reverse the stat wires, although I made sure I put mine back in order, because this stat is nothing but a circuit breaker. When cold you get continuity through the stat for a circuit to the heater. But there is no circuit until the timer cycles into defrost mode as these two parts work together. Then there is full circuit and the heater gets juice and heats to defrost until the thermostat gets warm and looses circuit, so heater does not overheat. Thereafter the timer goes out of defrost mode and even though the stat gets cold there is no circuit so heater does not continuously run. I bought a cheap thermostat for $7 and a cheap timer for $15 and saved over a hundred dollars on parts. If your heater is overheating it is probably because the stat is defective-stuck getting continuity all the time the timer is in defrost mode. It can also be defective never getting continuity either hot or cold so no defrosting ever.
Good video. Very well done. In my case I replaced the thermostat but after about 4 days the fridge gets warm and eventually I need to turn it off and manually defrost the freezer back wall. What do you think I need to replace next ? The heater core ? Please help thanks
Hi Thanks for being here :). I just put in a defrost heater. It read 26 ohms before I put it in. When it came on the the defrost cycle. I could see through the vents it was glowing red. Then a few minutes later it turned off. Should I expect to see a "Glow". Thank you
ALOHA JOHNATHAN, I HAVE AN LG LSC 26945 TT FRIDGE AND THE COILS ON THE LEFT SIDE OF THE FRENCH DOORS ARE FROZEN SOLID. IS IT THE ENTIRE COIL SECTION THAT NEEDS TO BE REPLACED? THANKS FOR WHATEVER HELP YOU CAN PROVIDE. THANK YOU
1 of three components is not working correctly. The defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, or defrost timer. You will have to follow the testing in this video to and others online if mine is not helpful enough to determine which part is bad. When all parts are operating correctly then the ice should never form to block your air flow.
GE upright freezer not defrosting. Manually defrosted it. got nice and cold didn't seem to go into defrost mode. Advanced the timer manually into defrost mode. Freezer defrosted but after 45 min. still had not gone back to cool mode. Does that mean the timer is shot or could one of the temp. sensors be causing this?? thanks any one
I had Ice all around those thermostat wires and even that bronze pipe or whatever that is and when i tried removing all that Ice I then started hearing some sort of hissing noise that sounded like air was being released, is this a bad sign of something? It wont stop making that noise and its been about 10mins. Please help!
Yeah, I currently have this issue. As I’m new to this, I’ve replaced the fresh food compartment door gasket and the defrost timer. Those solutions didn’t work for me so, since I’m busy and will only do this stuff during the weekend, I’ve ordered a new defrost thermostat and defrost heater. The thermostat has arrived and I’m hoping the defrost heater arrives by Saturday. Meanwhile, I’ve stuck a Quirky Spotter in the fresh food compartment, with a cord coming out of there to have it plugged in and that lets me know on my iPhone when the temperature is rising and I have to defrost evaporator using a hair dryer for 15-30 minutes.
I defrosted the freezer with a heat gun, then replaced the defrost heater, then advanced the timer to defrost mode. The heater did not come on. Is this because there was no ice and the defrost thermostat would not call for the heater to come on?
My refridgerator keep dropping temperature,no matter how much I use a blowdryer to melt the built up ice on the core it only cool for 3 day then it start dropping temperture again
I bet you could make some good videos. If you took the time to write it out. So you know what your going to say. Then shoot the video in a more controled enviroment. All things considered you did good.
i have a question how the defrost timer gets power to work or when the timer must work because i have change to a new defrost timer still its not working thank
Probably have a defective thermostat as the thermostat makes a circuit to the heater when the timer goes into defrost mode. If it does not, it will not defrost. It could also be the heater. This video shows you how to check them. if any doubt about heater testing just unplug the heater wire end plugs one that goes to stat plug and other at other end of evaporator and connect a meter wire to each end. If you have continuity through this wire the heater should be good. Then the only other culprit is likely the stat which you can see how to check with this video.
i have a question for my Samsung ref, that its evaporator fan does not working. i replaced it w/new but still not working. can anybody give good suggestion?
My interests I had that problem to an older fridge. The drain pan was blocked up with too much ice so it over flow through the air vent that blows the cool air in the veggies compartment. Just turn you fridge off over night and turn it on around noon should help .
What model is depicted in this video? I ask because I am visiting my vacation home soon where the "owner's fridge" is not working and I am trying to be as prepared as possible for troubleshooting it. I don't know the model, but the controls depicted in this video look just like what mine has.
