He has taught me so many things over the years of me owning my own home improvement company,,my hat is truly off to you sir thank you for the education over the years Tom...
As a 40 year old Hack DIY'er who bought a house that was built in 1915, I was so happy to see this video because whlie not broken into thirds, my Double muttoned??? Window in my basement is so similar. I've broken 3 windows in my basement and I'm set on fixing them. I'm def heading to the HAADWAA Store to get the goods!!! Thanks Tom!!!
Man I just found this RU-vid account and it brings back memories. When I was younger like 6 or something my dad would always watch this old house on TV. Good times. I’m 20 now and forgot this show existed
I am grateful for y'all! I just moved into a old house with windows constructed this way. I noticed as I was spraying around the house and cleaning the windows that the glazing is cracked, crumbling and the paint is bleeding off so this was the perfect information for me! Now to get to refinishing them and reglazing!
I've been a new Yankee Workshop and This Old House Fan for 30 years plus and you guys still are the best there is! I really appreciate your videos that still has the same old Flavours of This Old House thank you
I did this kind of work for almost 30 years. NEVER once did I wear a mask to cut out or heat out the putty. I don't think it's needed at all. Funny but great at the same time. Thanks for sharing...
I think they are being extra careful as some of the glazing compounds made before about 1960 had asbestos in them. Also, older paints had lead. Neither do you want to breathe in.
It is a pleasure seeing you do tasks even a child can do hrm hrm hrm! Lol it's funny the way the other guy describes the job Tommy did. Tommy does a great job explaining btw
I love how they said make sure you use a mask and a hepa vacuum to remove the glazing, that like likely due to it containing asbestos or lead if it is an old home.
Only Lead was used in paint and only on exterior, so yes it most likely would’ve contained lead paint, but the glazing itself is a linseed oil putty. So they were protecting themselves from lead contamination.
Damn Tom I'm a glazier and I wanted to see what your Technique was for putty, Not the smart guy technique with the DAP Alex haha Please do more windows I like watching you guys do what I do.
I wish the window manufactures made the windows so that the double paned windows were also easy to replace. It seems easily doable. I get the three paned windows are a different story though.
Hi This Old House Fans! Please give this comment a like if you find it useful! Often times the putty is still very firm and cannot be removed with just a utility knife as shown in the video. If you run into this problem, use a heat gun on low setting to soften the putty up. It will turn very soft and can then be removed easily. Be careful to warm only the putty on the pane of glass you are replacing.
Yes, regular putty tends to be oil-based. If you use it on bare wood, the oils in the putty will be absorbed by the wood, which can lead to some issues with the integrity of the wood and the putty. Prime, bead the rabbet, place your glass, putty around the sash/muttons, wait for it to dry, prime the now dry putty and paint your window.
Any suggestions on how to remove the muntins/mullions from a vinyl double paned, insulated window without replacing the whole insert? I worry about resealing the pane of glass so it doesn't get condensation. Is this even possible for a DIY?
I needed this a year ago! Now I need one on removing and replacing a wood window that has a zinc track/flashing. I tried this on my windows a year ago and the flashing would not budge and I had to bend it, I don't know If I should replace it with new flashing/track or use the existing...I even thought of going without...
Does it work the same way if I can't take the sash down? I broke a pane in my bathroom window trying to open it while stuck. It's a second story window and I would have to do it from the inside. No way I could climb a ladder to do it from the outside. Do I need to apply glazing to outside as well?
I have a double pane window with seals that have loosened and are sagging in between. I would rather buy a replacement section but there are no manufacturer markings. Any ideas to help This Old House?
sometimes it's not glazing compound, it's actual wood. replacing that is never fun, I'm sure. some of those windows you won't find names on. so good luck trying to find that window.... sometimes pulling them out of the opening is it's own task and built into, rather than meant to be taken out...insane
I make Aluminium Windows for a living. Its nice to see how other types of windows work. Although this looks like an old style. Also, Imperial measurements are the worst lol.
I come from a metric background (EU) and I can tell you that while it was intimidating to get into inches and fractions instead of meters and decimals, today I am of the opinion that if you know what you're doing it's actually no difference what you measure with. It feels like second nature to me already. and if you wear size 11 shoes, it's your foot measure right there..if you have normal sized thumbs - there's your inch... Everything seems easier this way, there is somewhat of an expectation for a leeway when measuring with imperials which is great too - in EU often it has to be 73,3cm - here it's just "Yeah two feet five and a half... " it'll fit
old guy techniques application of which proved to last 40 years and more a putty scraper knife to pry off the old glazing,and embedded points,careful not to gauge the sash track,get most of the putty out,sand the rabbet,lightly feather the top sash edge till a bit rounded and smooth,daub on boiled linseed oil,otherwise the bare wood will suck off the oil in the putty,and dry out prematurely,see that the rabbet corners are clean too, clean glass you intend to cut with pumice,warm water,wipe once, clean off with the clean cotton rag till you feel and hear it squeak,another dusting with pumice ( blue windex type cleaner does not remove this grit,applied at the factory to prevent breakage in shipment on pallets) blow off the residue,use some sandpaper to take the sharp of all glass edges before cutting,this make handling safer,,,use a red devil or embee glass cutter used only to cut one thickness of glass store the tip in oil,,use an accurate wooden t square to measure for cut,use enough pressure to score the glass, snap off with the scored glass at the edge of the table,, measure to check the sizes again,sand the edges w sandpaper,knock off corners till they are rounded,,sand them too. bead in a small amount of putty into the sash rabbet,, press the glass in till all sides seat the glass a 16th of an inch from direct contact with the lip surface,,these measures will protect and insulate the glass and sash from kid slams for years, when glass is seated snug and evenly,install points,either the old triangles or the more common push in points at the big box stores, about 2 pts every 6 to 8 inches,,use the side of a cold chisel for the triangle points,,the chisel ought to have a semi dull edge useful for scraping old putty out from sash reglaze jobs,oil base putty lasts longer than the latex,these guys above are more mechanics than window trades guys,,,they can whip in double glaze vinyl glass and plastic windows quick and done one hour a window opening,,,,reglazing as they do the job my bet is in 15 years it will have to be redone,,, sarco is decent to work with ,sarco oil based replaced NUPUTTY formerly of desplaines Il,,,,this stuff lasted 30 years stored in small cans,occasionally I poured a bit of lemon oil and used a drill mixer to keep it pliant and serviceable time will tell how well the sarco holds up,,,,,,no store close to me or within city limits among big or small box stores carried sarco oil based stuff,I had to order it, final step is to apply putty to the tacked in glass and edge of the wood,press in a bead with thumb,,,, falling gobs of putty mean it is too oily,needs to be a bit drier.use a 3/4 in curved embee knife to evenly press in,never use the putty knife for scraping,make corner angles 45 degrees lined toward the center,your putty line and edge should not be over or visible from the inside ought to look smooth, when done use the blue windex cleaner with a rag piece to carefully clean the glass of oil and finger marks,windows done like this will last 40 to 50 years,assuming we have good working casement parts like the weights, rollers and smooth casement sides.The finished window will make it quieter from outside noise,stay warmer in cold and dry when it rains for days
Mo_Val_Monster no...it’s the potential of having lead paint on the glazing that he’s scraping off. You don’t want to breathe in any lead paint particles that become airborne.
5:26 Not sure why Tommy is calling it a "mutton." I've always thought it was called a "mullion," and the online dictionaries confirm this. Perhaps a narrow regional usage on his part.
Depending on the window, I know sometimes they use special techniques. Something about sucking the air out between the 2 glasses of double pane windows for moisture purposes. I would probably take it to a hardware store. Could be expensive. But like I said, it depends on the window.
You'll need to talk to a glazier, but you won't necessarily need a whole new window like Tom said. I brought the sash to the glazier's shop and they put a new sealed two-pane glass module in my old frame.
so, you have changed the glass but when you put the window back together it got stuck on the jamb? I'd suggest getting a razor knife and trying to run it around the opening, feeling for a tight spot. You can always try prying it out and hen sanding the jamb or sash for a better fit.
With a hose obviously that old you have to figure lead paint and possibly asbsetos fibers if not on the materials on the window then in the first on the window. TOH and Ask TOH bring a business they are required to file certain guidelines. Being that the window was as small as it was they were able to get by with the hepa-vac and respirators. If it was just a home owner and the square feet of work under a certain size, the home owner can do lead based paint abatement themselves, in some areas in some states. Over a certain size, friending on area, a home owner may be required to use s licensed abatement company. If working outside, where wind out sir currents could affect neighbors or adjacent properties then the rules are a little different and tighter. That's why, in my area, while working on my 1910 Neo Greek Classical Revival I'm doing most of the work myself. Being Hazemat and Asbestos trained, I can be safe and get the work done a lot cheaper than hitting a contractor with all of their EPA requirements. Even though I'll be a lot slower, adding into the requisite that I'm now 65, but still a good deal for me. JS. Didn't mean to be so verbose.
@@kman-mi7su Really? I'm being serious. I live in a 1962 Windsor mobile home 10 x 50 that probably should have been in a shredder 20 years ago. I bought it for $500. I planned on moving after a year but I had a cardiac issue now I can't move. Mobile homes are built with toothpicks and aluminum foil.
kman 4443. LOL. I thought it was funny! Serious, but funny! I was gonna say it would be a hit in the South and I'm from Georgia! You and the other guy are right. It is serious and there does need to be, it could be a mobile home/trailer version. There are a lot of mobile homes that could be salvaged and up graded to make great affordable housing and starter homes, not to mention continuing as vacation homes or hunting camps. And it could make sure lot of them a lot safer and maybe prevent deaths. Something to consider.
The Joke is on all of y'all I live in Ohio, Northeast Ohio. It wouldn't be just the South. 99% of the contractors are good people like in This Old House, but those same 99% like in This Old House are too good and proud to work on a mobile home. I can never find a contractor who has the balls to fix an old trailer.
