How to Replace a Car's A/C Port Schrader Valve the Right Way. 

Thank you!!!! This was how a "How to" video should be! I knew I needed to vacuum out the lines, but other tutorials are very unhelpful in that aspect. You explained everything about the vacuum pump and how to use it in a very understandable and easy to follow manner. I honestly thought my cheap gauges had the open and closed arrows backwards, but your explanation of that makes perfect sense and now I'm actually pulling a vacuum on my system, instead of just in the gauge hoses. I just started the vacuum process about 15 minutes ago, but so far everything is going exactly as your video indicates it should. Thank you again for taking the time to create and upload this video!

I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video. Like everybody else has commented, I found the details to be straight forward and easy to do myself just watching the video and getting the pump kit and schrader valve! Your video saved me from spending time and money on trying to figure out how to get my air conditioner to work on my 2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD. Thanks again and keep up the great videos! Farmers helping farmers😀

Farm Dad, I enjoyed the video. I wasn't looking for it, but I'm glad that I happened to see it listed. I just now finishing up on the rebuild of the a/c system on my 93 F-150. Want to say thanks for your efforts, I'm sure that you've helped out a lot of people, including me. Oh, yeah. You've earned a new subscriber, I'm looking forward to checking out your other videos.

12:13 Purging air from yellow hose is extremely important. Good job demonstrating this.

Best video I've seen on RU-vid about automobile AC repair and charging the system. Subscribed!!!😊😊

THERE IS A TOOL MADE TO CHANGE THE VALVES THAT DOES NOT REQUIRE EMPTYING THE SYSTEM LOOK IT UP.

This is a great video, anyone learning how to do this, should watch this video, am a backyard mechanic and, done everything, besides ac systems, this really helped in depth

Very great information! Much appreciated

Nice work dad ! Straight forward and easy to understand... I would have zero hesitation to do this myself now ! Thank you, and all the very best wished for you and your family !

You helped me when you mentioned the high side used a different valve. I had already ordered 2 of the low sides. Thanks !

Very good information

Thanks for this information. Will need to do this soon as I know my valve is leaking.

Excellent Video, subscribed and thanks! You da man!

nice job on removing the refrigerant from the system. DA

Thank You, doing this to my wife's car. Just changed compressor amd Schroeder valve, I felt if I'm going to do it I should do it right. The auto store had the tools brand new never used. Some people don't know you can rent them.

Very informative. Thanks.

With my 2014 Range Rover Sport with a R1234-yf system, the shop manual makes a big point of not leaving a vacuum to sit before filling. Not sure why, but I did what they said with my compressor, condenser and drier replacement. So check it’s ok with your system before letting it sit with a vacuum.

The Appion core tool and its clones allows you to change a Schrader valve without losing any refrigerant. The valve core is unscrewed inside of the tool, pulled up, and a valve is shut, then the top can be unscrewed and a new core installed. Unfortunately for R134a fittings on vehicles, I have not seen a loss-less core replacement tool. If you’re working on an old vehicle that uses R12, one of these would come in very handy if you haven’t lost that much refrigerant yet and don’t want to retrofit 134.

If you find yourself having to replace the Hi Side service port like I do, look for a new port that has the schrader valve built in. Part # “Dorman 800-955” and this is GM specific. The cheap spring loaded rubber ball installed by GM will fail in time, so with this new part, you’ll be able to R&R that schrader if it fails in the future without losing your Freon and having to do the vacuum down part of this repair. Cheers

Thank you

Awesome video. Thank you, easy steps to follow. Also, I noticed that your truck is similar to my Chevy. Would you consider doing a video on adding a second battery?

Thank you...gracias.

Hi there, great video. In the event where there was still a charge to the system, do you need to hook up a container to collect the freon that is evacuated?

Does vacuuming the system down also remove the moisture from the receiver drier or does it need to be replaced?

I like to line up blue painters tape with gauge needle to have a visual line to vacuum level.

Great video sir

replaced my shraeder valve using this same kit and discovered it's leaking again although it's been almost 2 years ago. Useful to mention that most cars tell you how much refrigerant to put in the system on a sticker. That way you know how many cans to have and when you are close to being full.

Nice video learned to use the gauge now. If I had to ding anything it would be when you pull the vacuum where does the oil in the system go and you didn’t show putting oil back in just showing adding the can of Freon.

Thanks

Theres different sizes theres long theres shorts. Pretty sure i saw black ring on rhat shrader?? Was it a shorty?

A top tip. Get a container with water a bit warmer that room temp. Put the can of 134 in the container of water, it keeps the can from getting frost on it, the 134 goes in more quickly. This what I do each, and the can empties more quickly.

Any videos on how to DIY evacuate the refrigerant from the system prior to working?

I have a question I have seen a lot of videos that say never open the high pressure when doing a vacuum

This video is very helpful. I only went here to learn about replacing the schrader valve but I learned the whole process 😊. I and my husband recently bought an old car and our AC keeps getting hot only weeks after getting charged. Since we don't know how to troubleshoot the system, the shop only keeps letting us charge the AC. We even got the condenser replaced because they saw some leak when they did the bubble test. They didn't even bother checking if the schrader valve had leaks. I had to check videos online on where AC leaks may be other than what we already knew and I was shocked to see our car's schrader valve on low is very oily and dripping with what I assume may be the refrigerant. Another thing is I asked my husband if they do the same thing you did on the video and he said that they only installed the manifold gauges and recharge the system soon after that. Sad thing is, there are only very few car AC technicians in the area and both had already disappointed us so we're now relying on learning this ourselves so we can do it ourselves and not get scammed again 😅.

Do you also need to do a vacuum of the system when changing the low and high pressure switches?

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but both Low and High ports are fitted on the same line in this truck??

Do you need to add compressor pag oil when changing valve ??

Not available on Amazon

Dude that pump looks identical to my Robinair

So, you dont ad oil for the compressor?

so will a bad schrader valve prevent from being able to refill the system ??

link that amazon extreme thing?

I've been watching various videos of this repair... My only question, Does oil not need to be added? I've seen some say yes, some say no. This is only for evacuation and recharge, not replacing anything. Thanks for the help!

Are the cars AC schraeder valves the 1/4" size or the 5/16" size?

Only thing i would recommend is to go off how many pounds of refrigerant should go in your car and not just the pressure. Only went by the pressure after spending months fixing leaks on my 1999 jeep cherokee sport and when i was recharging it the psi stayed at about 25psi when it needed to be around 45 and i finished a second can when i should’ve only used about 3/4 of it and caused a new leak. To say i am upset with myself would be an understatement lol. Great video though

The Freon leaked out, should I be concerned about the pag oil?

Someone make a video replacing the poppet ball type

I didn’t see at the end did you open the high pressure when you where applying the refrigerant?

What is the Fee to subscribe to Farm Dad website I don't see it told anywhere I looked.

You do not have to evacuate the system to change shrader valves they have a tool just for this and you can change them without having to remove anything the charge stays in the system.

The ac can going to the tic aluminum tube, or the tiny one???

Do I have to evacuate my system before putting the valve on

That new walmart can on the left, is the right can to buy. Only buy pure R-134A. NEVER get that leak stop crap. Never....... Stay far away from it. Pure R-134A. Now dye is okay in SMALL dosages. Doesn't take hardly a full ounce of dye. Stuff goes all over the place LOL.

good vid,maybe could have showed more end result of gauge reading while completing charge.

Ok, so a few things, did u empty the system/ evacuate, before doing all this, i know ZERO so thats why im asking,i see so many people totally skipping that part, i can do the gauge thing and vacuum, but i feel lost reading something about the yellow line🤷

Let's go 🙂😄

Product not as described. I bought the vacuum system and it didn't come with the fitting for the new type of refrigerant. I got a new fitting from local parts store... it didn't thread into the vacuum system at all... ended up getting another low system adapter for new canisters ...

Open your high side first and verify that it pulls the low side down before you drack the blue handle on the guage - the longer you vacuum the better

0:33 - 1:12 How does soapy water affect a closed refrigerant circuit (maybe you used compressed air to remove the soapy water off camera.)

I went to get my ac unit checked and they claim the schrader valve is bad. Should i try to tighten them if loose then spray some water to see if bubbling occurs. They want $205 to recharge and replace valves. Hopefully they run the vaccum pump long enough when I have redo it.

I've used that xtreme power kit. The case is nice but the rest isn't. The pump is unreliable, the manifold gauges are just ok, the can tap is left hand threaded and they don't provide an adapter to connect it to the yellow line.

If the system holds less than 5 lbs of refrigerant it's considered "de minimus" and it was allowed by the EPA to be vented. Don't know if they have changed that rule in the last 20 years

Mine would not come out and I'm afraid the port is damaged

I had that valve replaced twice and it still leaks

What happens while you are filling it up through the low pressure valve you open the high pressure valve until the refrigerant starts to come out. It would also wipe out the air, wouldn't it?

Hey Dad looks like its time for a garage sale.

you look totally different i have question the guy at tire shop emptied all my freon do i need to vacuum it out still

The best part about buying the kit from Amazon is returning it! 😂 that way it’s really just a rental. 🤣🤣 I’m just kidding. Don’t do that!

I thought he was going to point out how everybody was replacing Schrader valves the wrong way

I didn't see you replace the high side valve. The high side valve is a one- time use item. If you don't replace it, it WILL develop a leak. Use Dorman part 800-955 which is the same design as the low side and won't develop a leak.

Like where your head is at but a better evac is 2 hours or ALL NIGHT.

The mechanic said mine got stuck because it's an old car, and they tried to unscrew the entire thing, and it didn't budge, now they said they have to pick apart the car to pull out the pipes, sounds like it's gonna cost me, wtf

wanna sell that olympic bar on the floor?

Never going to reach 30 in mg. Also every 1k above sea level will drop your vacuum gauge reading. What you DO need is a micro gauge. Look them up.

Shade tree mechanic pro tip… Don’t order the vacuum pump, just hook up your can of refrigerant and start pumping it into the system while slightly pushing the high side valve down for a few seconds until you get air coming out and then oil and refrigerant will start coming out, at which point you would then release the valve. NO MORE AIR IN THE SYSTEM!!!

Want a better way? Try R-152A or canned computer duster. Ozone safer than R-134A and cheaper to find. Walmart, OfficeMax, Office Depot and Staples.....

You must be a troll making it harder than it is. I vote no thanks.

Wrong wrong wrong. All these videos are WRONG! Air doesn’t hurt an ac system. Moisture doesn’t hurt an ac system. Taking out and replacing a shrader valve doesn’t cause damage to other parts of the ac system. All ac’s have a desiccant material in them. Accumulator/dryer metal can which has the desiccant, or Toyota system where there is no accumulator/dryer but a desiccant tube sock. THAT ABSORBS MOISTURE. If you need to replace a major component of an ac, a tire stem, or “shrader valve” is not a major replacement so no need to worry, you change the desiccant as well. No vacuum needed. The new desiccant accumulator/dryer absorbs the moisture. Your fine, your ac will last with no rust build up over 20 years. Refrigerant NATURALLY drains. Leaks through the rubber VERY SLOWLY in car ac systems. ALWAYS just try adding freon first. Cheapest and easiest thing to do. Just look for pure refrigerant though. The leak seal stuff added in common r134a cans can be an issue down the road perhaps. And as far as leaking refrigerant to replace a part, don’t worry about it. It can’t be proven and it’s a nice scam to get you to pay more than you need to. Noticeably more to. Leak it baby. It isn’t doing as much damage as the amount of co2 is supposedly doing. But why let the boomers take away another thing from us because they did it and feel bad about their lack of self control collectively and narcissistically think they have the right to compel us not to do the same things. Fuckin fake hippie boomers. If they stuck to the anti war and peace and love beliefs maybe things would be a little better for us AND we wouldn’t despise the generation known as boomers.