Hey mate, awesome video!!!! just wish i could have found it easier! I tried searchin TDCI and 2007 and then found this and its almost identical and gives me SO MUCH INSIGHT that i wouldnt have had without this video. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO MAKE IT!!!
I ordered my master cylinder after discovering a leak from where the clutch pedal meets its pivot point. This is the best video i've found to help replace it, even if it is still pictures and a right hand drive. I'm in the US. But this should be able to guide me for this repair. I might make my own video, we'll see. If I do make a video I'd like to leave a link in these comments for others if they are going through what i'm going through.
Thanks for the video Jim, it gave me the confidence and knowdledge to attempt this job. Don't think you need to remove those scuttles. Maybe it makes access a little easier, but not much. Master cyl; twist to the right to remove (viewed from pipe end). You can see the little ramps which facilitate insertion. I lubed my new one with a bit of fairy liquid which helped it slip in nice and easy :)
You're channel is very helpful source of information, 1 of the best on this utube.....i just did mine and saved me a tone of cash at the mechanic, cheese from Australia down under
Great video Thanks mate! Just about to tackle one at work and was hoping for a quick twist out job lol how wrong I was! At least now a know what must be done. 👍
Great video, everything exactly as described. I just can’t seem to get the pedal out, I’ve tried twisting turning wiggling, just about everything. Is there a certain movement or direction you found worked best?
He was just extremely lucky. Best bet is to just make enough space to get some pump pliers on the cylinder to rotate it and squeeze it out between the bulkhead and pedal box.
i have a 2016 ford focus manual transmission with the 1.0 ltr ecoboost engine,,my clutch pedal doesnt move up,,and the mechanic i brought it to said he has to remove the transmission to replace the master cylinder,,is he right?
Hy. Thanks for the video. It was very usefull. Now i m at the second intervention that was looking good until restart. Now i have 2 errors: tire sensor error+parking aid sensor error and also wont unlock the steering column. Do You have Any idea what i ve done wrong?
hi Jim great info ,Im replacing the master cylinder on my focus but there is additional sensor at the other end of the master cylinder engine side any ideas what this does cheers
If youve drained is soley from sucking it out the clutch feed pipe and left the rest of the brake fluid in the reservoir then no, if youve sucked all the fluid completely out of the reservoir so its bone dry its probably best to even though there will still be fluid in the brake lines. 👍
Thank you for this great video ! Can you confirm that they are 2 clutch pedal sensors/switches ? I think that one of mines not working (no more Start&Stop), so I've checked the first (in your video), easy to remove and working fine, but didn't see the second (top sensor) because it's more difficult to acces.
If your stop start has stopped working you might want to charge your cars battery , stop start will stop working once the battery charge level drops below 70% once its charged test it again, you may need to get it re activated if it doesnt start working after a few engine cycles too. I say all this as most peoples stop start problems I ever have as due to a discharged battery
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thank you for your answer ! I've checked the both sensors, and they're working fine, so It's probably the battery, nearly 8 years old, so it's time to change it.
Did you remove the steering wheel column for this? It is not mentioned as a step so I would suspect not? Why was the connection to the steering rack removed?
No the column wasnt removed, the lower column was disconnected from the rack as shown because otherwise you dont have enough room to pull out the pedal assembly 👍
I changed the complete clutch and flywheel set on Focus MK2 1.4 petrol, but the pedal started to get heavy. We bleeded the liquid, but sometimes the clutch pedal is really hard, other times it is not. Probably the master cylinder needs changing also?
Was it like it before? I had one a couple of months ago where the new slave cylinder that came with a gearbox was faulty and went hard then popped, replaced it under parts warrenty again and was fine after, could just be a dodgy part...
ALL THINGS JIM no. The thing is, when I do a hard acceleration or hard brake, the clutch pedal is soft a few times, after that it hardens. Really weird. I suspect the master or slave cylinder.
@@ALLTHINGSJIM I am not sure. I know that I went back to the shop after the clutch change and they sucked the air out and I was pressing on the clutch at that time, but still the clutch pedal didn't become soft as I would like it to be.
I've got Mark 3 focus 1.6tdci . I have clunking noise when changing gears mainly 2nd and 3rd, 4th. Mechanic said needs new clutch and flywheel which he did. But noise still there and seems worse than before. Also changed the master cylinder as said didn't like the pedal feel. Any ideas why have clunking noise?
Mine squeaks too and after checking it my clutch master cylinder is leaking brake fluid and it runs onto the rubber spring cover causing it to squeak. Dealership price for entire assembly was only 114.00 with tax
@@ALLTHINGSJIM Thank you for the content. Changed my daughter's clutch master cylinder couple days ago, such a tight space to get to. Which made it physically taxing. We got it done though.
I posted this on the focus st forums, i replaced my master cylinder, put everything back together, checked it four times before putting battery back in and my car won’t start when pressing the clutch but does start when pressing the brakes, any clue on how or why this is happening?
Ok, unplug it and if i remember right its a 2 pin plug, get a paperclip and bridge them and press start button, if it starts then your clutch switch is now faulty ( dont leave the paperclip in after this, its a test to diagnose that sensor not ment as a repair)
Or use a test lamp / multimeter if you have the knowlege to use them and see if theres voltage to the wires first before and after pressing the clutch switch
Ive changed this on mine and my car wont rev past 3.5k rpm when stationary so thinking its one of the 3 sensors, what does each sensor do.. 2 inside the car and the sensor on the master cylinder?
Hi Guys, should i put any type of grease anywhere on the shaft or tip? Heard it’s a must in this procedure but haven’t really understood where exactly to grease it
Sameh Saad im not too sure about getting the part for a mazda, but the ford one i use in video is a main dealer part, ford knew it was a problem with them snapping so they modified the arm to a metal one instead of plastic
This causes clutch pedal to stick? Sometimes to the floor!? Ford obviously knew about this which is why they made a metal replacement. Why has there been no recall on this. This is a massive safety issue.
Seriously long and fiddly process that must take alot of time. According to our local garage in Bristol, we have just had a new "slave cylinder" put in for £140. Took a non-Ford pro about two hours. Money well spent and not a ton of cash when the part is sold for about £35 to £45 incl vat. PS: The master cylinder was done 6 months earlier at a cost of around £200 - £240. Small Ford Ka mk 2 cars can give you big head-aches.
This is a pig of a job. If it wasn't for the seal plate integrated into the cylinder, it would undo and come out through the bulkhead in the engine bay. Absolutely the worst design.