We had an axle bearing surface failure after 82k miles of hard use. In this video you will see how it got replaced in full detail and what tools were used.
Good catch. This job does NOT require the backing plate to removed and I should have clarified why I was doing that in the video. I did that because of my limited tools selection at the home garage. I wanted to chisel the seal out separately from taking the bearing out as I didn't have a proper seal puller on hand and my whimpy slide hammer was not powerful enough to yank the bearing and seal out at the same time. If you have a full size slide hammer (which I do now) you should be able to rip the bearing and seal out together and leave the backing plate in place! Thanks for pointing this out.
I've done a couple of these, rear wheel sensor's get in the way of taking the c clips out. Gotten lucky I didn't have the hardening issues with the axle's. Love my crown vic's.
@@PNW_Car_Mods Oh I bet there was. I Would change that fluid a couple time's make sure. OEM Mustang 8.8 diff cover works great on these, but the top of the cover has a hole that needs plugged. I change my diff fluid every couple year's so a drain plug is awesome.
@summerforever6736 I've had both an 03 and still have an 07. Both needed to be done. Same thing each time both seals blew. I also made sure my axle vent tubes weren't plugged up. The 03 was around 160k, 07 was around 107k. Used international brand and haven't had an issue on the 07 for over 80k miles.
I used a hacksaw blade and cut the bearing at 6:00 and 12:00 to almost touching and then use the chisel to finish it off and then of course I had to grind any marks I put on the housing down before I put the new bearing back in
Well Done. I like the improvised slide hammer tool! How are the rear control arm bushings and watts link holding up with the 5 speed? Mine were already a bit noisy and loose before my swap but I just sent it anyways till I sold it.
So far all is well. Don't really envision much change in power delivery to the rear axle as you can't really beat on these transmissions like they owe you the world. It is a big heavy car.
How did you get the c clip out? I was olny able to get mine out by removing the abs sensor and that meant I had to replace the abs sensor. I didn't have enough play with the senosr in to get the clip out.
Man, that it wane of those scenarios where I would like to have been there to see what you had going on. I just recently did this again on a Ford Ranger 8.8 with a trac lok diff. No problems. I just push it off the end of the axle with a screwdriver and let it fall off into the bottom of the housing and fish it out later.
Any idea what is acceptable or normal play for the axle sliding horizontally. Example wheel off and i pull on axle i get about maybe an eight to 3/16ths play in and out. Excellent video by the way
I think that is going to depend heavily on miles on the car and wear and tear. This car has 82k miles on it and I would say there is exactly 1/16 inch in and out play each side.
If you are talking about the sharp side vs the rounded side of the C clip and which way to face it? I wouldn't worry about it. It will be totally fine to retain the axle.
I can't say for sure and I don't want to send you down the wrong path. Any good autoparts store should be able to get you the right seal by make, model, and year.
Negative. We got this car with only 62k miles on it. I can assure you this car got beat to shit on it's daily duties in the SPD. All prior to the defund the police movement. These cars also have somewhat of a notorious problem with this. That being said, she's still trucking along almost daily no further problems.
AC Delco tools power ratchets. I think it was 150 bucks for the pair (3/8s & 1//4 drive) with a charger and two batteries. They work freakin awesome. They have been just as good as all my Milwaukee stuff.
It will be exactly the same. Also if you have a proper seal puller you don't have to take the brake backing plate off like I did in this video. So that will save about 5-10 minutes.
That's an open diff right? I just watched this cause I swapped a limited slip rear end off my old 2011 Vic onto my newer to me open diff'd Vic. I swapped the entire rear end. But I noticed the axles on my newer Vic appear to be in much nicer condition than the ones off my old rear end. Kind of want to swap the axles over. Do you know if the process will be extensively different for a limited slip diff?
This is an open diff yes. The process is the same for the traction lok diff. I should have mentioned that in the video. You may have to manipulate the S spring around to get the c clips to come out but you should not have to remove the S spring. Only reason to remove the S spring is to physically rebuild the clutch packs in the diff. That thing is a bugger to work with as well.
Replace the bearing and still three or four months ago and it's already leaking again the last time there was no trouble getting the c-clip out now there is 😭
@@PNW_Car_Modsif that were the case it seems like it would have leaked immediately by some miracle finally get the clip out Axle is still jammed up I've already pulled the other axle to inspect everything was perfect on the driver's side hell might as well run a 4 ft pipe down the hole and hammer from the inside
@@Manmadecontent while not impossibly it is more likely gear from the axle or bearing going bad. If you want to know for sure, smell it. Gear oil stinks really bad. Brake fluid doesn't really small at all and definitely nothing like gear oil.
