1 full coil cut off the front springs. It is right around 3 inches of drop with the extra 350 lbs or so from the extra weight of the engine and transmission.
That short angle iron welded on the HF that might be there to hole the tire while breaking the bead. Cut it off. It just scratches aluminum rims. It's not needed.
3 times drain and fill os for transmission thst hasn't had any service for a long long time, like 100K miles. If you keep the service 30K miles intervals it should be fine. That applies to all cars. My brother's 2004 needed 3 and it's still wasn't really enough, but it had 300K miles and almost never had a service in 10 years
It's hard to say without further diagnosis. It could also easily be a bad pinion or carrier bearing in the differential. Usually with those you will get roar and possibly some gear whine. In our case there was no noise it just started leaking badly out of the axle seal.
According to google the Max Tow Gladiator still exists but I can't say that for sure. Max Tow was a sport or S gladiator with Rubicon axle housings and 4.11 gears. Tow Capacity was 7650 pounds. NO Diesel. V6 gas only.
You need the parking brake off. That is totally separate from this emergency neutral strap. In other words, if you pull this orange strap and yet leave the parking brake on, you ain't going nowhere.
If you would have used tire paste, you wouldn't even need the duckbill. I used a Harbor Freight manual tire changer & used tire paste. I installed the tire on in 2 minutes. It couldn't get easier than that. So I don't understand why people use the duck bill if they use a bead clamp, a dewalt wood clamp to hold the tire from spinning, and the HF supplied black bar.
If you want to turn it into a race, I can put that style tire on a steel wheel in 30 seconds with no tire machine and just two tire levers using soap. When you are working with steel wheels and big floppy tires no tire machine is needed. Same with aluminum if you don't mind the potential of a few scuffs. Once you start getting into low profile stuff things change though.
@@nitrocar Usé la misma manguera de combustible de PTFE de energía maligna y accesorios AN que usé en el sistema de combustible. Esa manguera tiene una capacidad nominal de 3000 PSI. No hay fugas en el sistema de dirección asistida con esa manguera. Si sigue esta ruta, necesitará un adaptador AN que se atornille a la cremallera de dirección fabricada por Range Industries.
@36:35 put a handle on the lower portion of that pin - wood or plastic or even a garden hose - that'll make it bottom heavy and it'll stay more vertical. Drill a correct sized hole down the middle of a short piece of dowel or something similar and drive it onto the lower portion. Use a neodynium magnet to hold the handle of the bead breaker up in place.
I ended up hose clamping a 1lb lead ingot on the pin. GAME CHANGER. so much easier to get a wheel on and off of that pin lol. I do need to find one of those magnets. I'm going shopping now! Thanks Gerry.
First to time I shot my crossbow, a couple decades ago, the 2nd shot recked the first one. I have never shot at the same target twice again. They are too easy to get a bull. Point and click. Even my wife nails it every time. That was a 20 dollar mistake.
Just curious, my 2011 P71 doesn’t have the S Clip in the Pinon Housing. I noticed yours doesn’t either. Is that standard for that setup because everyone else’s I’ve seen still has the S Clip. I worried the shop who touched my rear differential the day before it crapped out, wasn’t competent enough to feed the C clips through the S and simply left it out. They messed up so many things I’m hoping they didn’t just take that part as it’s like $60 from what I’ve seen. Are you able to have the axles in when you take the S Clip out? Or just take one axle out then be able to remove it? They said no play but my axle was ate up just as bad as yours after a rear passenger seal leak, bearing was disintegrated and ate up the axle housing a little.. then the next day I hear the bearing shatter/grind and have to get it towed home. I trust no one to touch her now 😕
The S spring if you have it is for the Trac Lok diff. If you have an OPEN differential (one wheeler peeler) then you won't have an S spring. The crown vic in this video has an open differential so no S spring will be there.
That’s a cool hot rod! When I watch videos like this, an inner voice urges me to buy a welder 😂. I used to have a gate shifter and stuck a chrome skull with red glass eyes on it. I had a mint in this Chevelle, yet the kids always commented about that shifter knob, lol.
@@PNW_Car_ModsWe’re fortunate here! A lot of tree debris, palm fronds, but cleaned up in a few hours. Power went out for about 14 hours, so I got to use my generator! Woo hoo!
@@PNW_Car_Mods. How difficult is it to weld the headers/exhaust, considering it’s stainless? The Vette shop wants $1500 for complete installation 😅😅😅. I could get it all installed and clamped together, probably, but welding the v-bands etc, might be a cluster…
@@bat5917 I wish you didn't live 3k miles away lol. For 1500 hundred it better be show quality! I mig weld all my stainless exhausts. It's not the right way to do it as basically your welds dumb down the exhaust system to regular steel at the joints. Now that being said, I have never ever had a mig jointed weld fail on any stainless exhaust I've ever welded up. I'm sure somebody in your area can do it for cheaper but you just have to find the right shop.
I did the same on my 98 but it back fires computer is already tuned maybe i have a wire mixed in was wondering if u can send me ur schematics if still have so i can compare with the ones i have ur help Is really appreciated
It depends on how dry or green the wood is. If the wood is really dry it will suck this up and be dry to the touch within a day or two. Usually within a week or so you can lay on it and not get any transfer to your clothes.
OEM rear are still in place. I have threatened to remove the rears and install something smaller, lighter, louder, back there but at the end of the day I know it will likely get really loud and probably induce quite a bit of drone. I have also contemplated making some inserts or sleeves to slide into the rear OEM mufflers to essentially straight pipe them as a non permanent thing but I have yet to try it.
@@PNW_Car_Mods thanks for your return . more loud will be exessive for me so the way how you did that is perfect for me too . an x pipe clean and sober with an aggressive sound as desired without it being unpleasant. I'm going to do the same thing on my GC hemi 5.7 , thank you for your video , from France
If you can find an ebay seller that will ship to Brazil it should be easy. There are lots of wrecking yards and other mustang parts shops that sell these parts as a package on ebay. Calipers, rotors, brackets, dust shields. All you would have to do is find suitable tubing to make the spacers for the emergency brake cables.
Once absorbed after a day or two it is completely dry. Within a week or so you can lay on it and not get any transfer. This will all vary dependent on how dry the wood is.
Great video Sir! Very well done and it's viewing is definitely going to save me a bunch of time in figuring things out as I do this job for my father-in-law in the next couple of days. As a pilot, I noticed lots of single engine aircraft going over. I assume you are on or near final. It must be fun to watch them all come and go :-) Thanks Again!
Thank you. Hope it all goes well! We are on the downwind leg to runway 35 Pierce County. I'm a former career long EMS helicopter mechanic and have been around aviation all my life.
You could make your own custom spacer, that will go between the machine and the rim. depending on the spacing between the tire changer and the cone, with hole saws you could use either a 1"x6"-8" or a 2"x6"-8". To prevent possible slippage or scratches to rims/wheels. You can glue a piece of rubber to your spacer block.
The wiring is presentable but far from ideal. What you get when using a universal china standalone harness. I would like to get a custom harness done now that the proof of concept is done on this and it is proven itself. Cleaning with nothing more than a full power gas powered pressure washer and starting with a lot of NEW and already clean parts. Thanks for checking it out!
MAF and MAP are two seperate things. I am not running a MAF sensor on this car. It is tuned without it in speed density closed loop. MAP is hooked up like stock with an extension harness from c5 connector to connector on LSA map sensor. Go watch some of the build videos on this. It is all there.
it is using the OEM 3650 reverse light switch using a new pigtail harness merged into the auto wiring harness. It's in the video somewhere. If you go to part 4 I believe I show full blown wiring diagrams.
Nothing that isn't normal with a cam of this nature. It's all in the tune. If your tune sucks it is going to drive crappy or be annoying to drive. I am coming up on 10k miles of daily driving this thing no problem. Sounds great, and makes good usable power.
Yup. Check out part two. My son convinced me to put the engine and transmission in the truck bolted together with the hood on. IT WORKED and it was even easier lol. Got almost 10k miles on this swap already.
I professionally restore headlights and you don’t need to use that many grades of paper . 600, 1000, 2500 then polish then clear and only 1 heavy coat. 2 coats makes it foggy . Anyways Good luck
Do I look like a joke to you? WTF? People that need links in a description on something that can EASILY be searched are helpless and I have no use for you.
@@PNW_Car_Mods The vast majority of people on RU-vid who make a video about a specific product do the cordial thing of including a link to said product and you know this. I obviously looked it up. And you must have a use for me or you wouldn't be making videos in hopes of views. Thumbs down pal.
@@oldowl4290 Thumb down me all you want. People that know me know I don't do youtube for any kind of gain. Nobody is holding a gun to your head. You didn't have to watch. I don't promote this channel, I don't beg people to watch, I don't beg people to subscribe, I don't beg people to share, and I don't care if you like it or not. Just do it for the fun of it.
No you should not need an alignment. Even after we did the 1.5 inch on the front I left the alignment alone from factory. When we traded this in it had 33k miles on the tires and they looked perfect. That being said if you don't get an alignment you need to be good at watching your tires for the first several thousand miles and if you see any odd wear take it in straight away and get it aligned.
I definitely need to try this! that being said I've been using a bungee cord with good success. You just have to take it off when you are done with the bead breaking process.
This is the generally accepted practice, yes. In my case though it is of no concern because even if I had a stuck fill plug I am GOING to get it unstuck or fix it on the spot. You are right it should have been pointed out in the video.
Your sons just pretending he's doing something 😂 while your doing the real work. He's lucky to have a dad like you willing to help him out. Don't take him for granted man life's short enjoy all the time you can with your dad. Later ✌️
Glad to watch thanks so much bro... No bored at all. Awesome work. I want to watch every single video in regards this build, I got something very similar going on, thanks for all the tips brother 👍
Not at this time. The AC is still not done and likely won't be for quite some time. Heater is all ford ranger including the little vacuum heat control valve which fully functions. Heater works 100% as it should like factory.
