Step by step guide on how to remove and replace a cv axle/joint on a front wheel drive vehicle. Long Reversible Ratcheting Wrenches: amzn.to/2aRlJa6 1/2" Impact Driver: amzn.to/2aRlzzs Craftsman Jack Stands: amzn.to/2aRvMil
This video saved me almost $1000. The dealership wanted over $500 for each side, I spent about $60 for each cv axle and followed this video. Took me about 3 hours both side, with 10 years of stubborn rust and running back and forth for various tools (used a self-help garage bay that rents their bays/lifts for about 4$/hr and all the free tools for use they have - just limited on the number you can have at a time) and ZERO experience. This video made it easy to follow step by step :)
A bit late of a response but i've learned how to replace a lot of things on my car just because of how ridiculous dealership part/labor costs are. Replaced these, my brakes, turbocharger, etc in my chevy cruze. was simple. Not sure why these are multi hour jobs for trained professionals :P
I ended up replacing the cv axle and it solved the shaking problem, now I dont know if it was because the weight wasnt put on there properly or if the loose weight had damaged the axle but funny enough the new cv joint didnt have one...just glad I dont have to drive through and earthquake everytime I do 65mph..lol
@@LuisPerez-bk3cmI went to Autozone n got both of my 2011 Elantra CV AXLE. I have today replace lower control arm n driver side axle . I did not replace the seal . I have two new ones but the seal in car now didn’t leak . Tomorrow I got do rest new rotors n brakes n tork . N go do driver sides
Can you possibly answer some questions for me? #1. If the CV boot is torn up do I need to replace the axle? #2. If I replace axle do I need to replace wheel bearings ? #3. After replacement of axle cvboots and new rotors and brakes should the wheel make noise ? Does that noise mean the wheel bearings are bad ?
Did you replace the hub bearing assembly before considering the Axle? In case of similar vibration, I would think to check wheel balance first, and then hub/bearing, and the axles last..
jackslater230011 there are groves on the CV joint that slide right into you're transmission Very important to make sure it matches you're old one before installing,once the shaft of the CV slide into the transmission just push it hard to set the C,C clamp does not matter how it's facing
The swapping of your CV joints did not cure your front end shimmy. So the problem was not the axles. Maybe someone when they put your front tires on during a tire rotation overtightened the lug nuts and warped the rotors. A shimmy that goes away when you step on the brakes is a good sign of warped rotors. The newer cars with their thinner rotors and luminum wheels are touchy about the torque on the lug nuts.
Unfortunately the problem is still there, I dont think you can see it in the video but when you move the weight around its fairly obvious where it needs to be secured...oh and the torque spec for the axle nut is 170 ft/lbs. Tx for your comment and thanks for watching.
This is the best video regarding cv axle replacement I ever saw. Most authentic and easiest way. You gave me confidence and courage to change my cv axle by myself and save money. Thank you!
@@myRatchets I wush I'd seen your video before I started. Already removed the caliper. Had to, try to, put it back for a minute because I'd not brought anything to support it up top. It sucks. At least I know for the other side. Thanks.
Shame he never mentioned to remove the brake fluid cap and check fluid doesn't overspill before compressing the caliper and piston, also be wary of using a pry bar against the face of your disc, unless you want to risk damaging it.
FYI pry bar method does not always work for all applications. I tried this on my Jeep Commander today. All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
u make that look so easy bro/i would be under there for a whole day probably with spanners that dont fit banging my head and cutting my hands to pieces lol.
Great video but I'm surprised that you were so focused on every torque specification EXCEPT the axle nut! If anything, that's the one I'd be worried about the most man.
Super helpful! I am going to take my car to get the CV joint fixed but I love actually knowing what will be done to the car. Thanks for explaining everything and getting the camera close to the tight spots so we could actually see what was happening.
That's a good tip. Always use Hyundai's transmission fluid. There is a reason for this. Hyundai transmissions have a weakness (at least in older Hyundai Accents from the early to mid 2000's and probably Elantras like your's too) and if you don't use their fluid, say goodbye to your transmission in under 500 miles. Their fluid is special and makes up for this weakness. It's a known issue I discovered in Hyundai forums online. If you use aftermarket fluid, it does not have the special additives, so ALWAYS use their fluid. I have heard that Hondas and Toyotas recommend this too and it's obviously for good reason. You can use aftermarket fluid on domestics without issues, but some of these imports need special fluid and it's worth the little bit extra for the manufacturer's fluid. Another good tip you didn't mention (cause you were just repairing the old axle and not replacing it, which makes sense why you didn't mention this) is if you are replacing the axle, always check the new spline length and number of splines on the new axle against the old one. Some vehicles, like my Accent have two spline lengths for two different transmissions used in these vehicles. Different number of splines and sometimes different length. Use the wrong one and again, kiss your transmission goodbye on under 500 miles. Great video and your tips should help me with my first axle replacement job. Wish me luck. Never done it before. As others mentioned, your camera work and camera angles were fantastic.
I just came across this video. Informative for the axle removal. It looked the clamps used were hose clamps. The worm part of the clamp could cause off balance condition during high speed rotation. The factory clamps do not have those extra weights. If the clamps were to be replaced, why the whole axle had to come out. Unless you wanted to show how to remove axle. Another cause of vibration could be bad motor mounts. Regards.
By far all cv joint repair replacement vids the these camera angles were pointed with clear imagery and at the actual time when he worked on each of the step super awesome ! I'm not even working on my car because I dont know the prop feet per to tighten bolts back but I watched like 5 vids of CV joints just cuz my is cv joint bearings are goners but it's interesting af
I learned a lot from this vlog sir. Thank you so much. I want to let you know that the unit for torque is not foot per pound (ft/lb) but foot-pound (ft-lb) because it is the product of the force (in pounds) applied at the point on the tool handle or lever and the length of the handle/lever from the point of force application on the handle/lever to the center of the nut/bolt to be tightened.
Thank you for the GREAT video. I think that I have the same problem on my toyota Venza. It too has the axle weight on the shaft. Now the question is why these weight exists? If it is for balance the spin, then put two clamps will unbalance the axle. Can I just take it off without weight on the axle? If it can do without, I may be able to take it out without pulling the axle out. Need your opinion. Thanks.
Well, I broke into the wheel well and got most of it unplugged but the axle nut. Mine has a bent piece instead of a cotter pin so I think I’ll use a torch to bend that piece up before removing the axle nut. I will likely also use a piece of pipe with pry bar after heating and lubricating the outside axle nut. It looks like I was pretty close! Quick question: Was there any steps to popping the axle out from the transmission? Any seal, nuts or anything like that?
Should it be ONE click or TWO clicks? I've read one comment for 1A Auto film, it was Mazda, and he said it should be TWO clicks. I don't know, maybe it depends on model of the car. I need to do CV Axle replacement on 2001 Saturn SL2. Do you happen know, is it hard to find and replace the Seals for the CV Axle - to -Transmission connection. If it is not hard it would be good to replace it if you are there anyway. Thank you for a great film.
Someone charged my aunt $450 just for the part & $300 for labor just to replace the driver side axel of a gmc Envoy XL 2004 & this wasn’t even a garage it was someone my boyfriend knew I thought I’d save her $$ because she is struggling & I didn’t think he would do that because he is always working on cars in the lot at my house he has many customers he used to work in a car garage but left due to his wife going blind I get paying somebody for their time & work but to up the price of the part by $300 I’m so angry I’m looking up the part it’s only like $49-$79 for the parts she probably would of paid the same at a garage & at least the work would of been covered she used to always get her husband & brother to do her car repairs but they passed a few years ago
@Ratchet and Wrenches when you compress the pistons like you did, is it necessary to bleed the brakes after you replace the Caliper/brakes? Also, will doing that push air or dirty oil into the brake line? Thanks for your time brother.
great video you are awesome I love how you don't mind getting your hands dirty. one more question did anchoring those weights down fix your driving problem?
Mine is 2011 Elantra vibrations at right side 60/70 mph . Am nit sure how to add transmission fluid to my car . No dip sticks shown . I have to replace my right side cv joint soon. N front rotors n lads
Hey all I had to redo this job because because the CV axle wasn’t properly seated. Any advice on how to make sure the CV axle is properly seated after you feel the click. My CV axle always has about a millimeter or two of cOf clearancelOf clearance where it connects to the of clearance where it connects to the transmission,I gave it a couple wax today to try to set it further in and and now I am able to loosen the axle by hand...
On my 2005 elantra I had the same issue with the steering wheel vibrating at high speeds, it was a bent rim. It wasn't bent much at all but it made a big difference. But thanks for this video! I have a rip in my driver side cv boot so I'll have to change it out soon!
Vibration is a sign of a bad wheel bearing. Jack up the front end and shake the tire. If there is play or wiggle, it is probably the wheel bearing. Check for grinding when you spin the wheel and or cyclical noise while driving. These are the signs of a bad wheel bearing
Excellent video as always! I just replaced a cv axle and I took the strut off instead of removing the brakes. Some cars are tighter than others. Once I removed the strut it was a really easy job. I used Milwaukee cordless tools. Milwaukee 3/8”, Milwaukee 1/2”. I also used a tie rod separator tool from Harbor Freight. There’s many ways to do these jobs and it’s good to know the different ways. I’ve tried it every way that’s out there. I’m just leaving this tip because sometimes you have to approach a job from a different angle. You always make excellent videos! Thanks for everything you’re doing.
If you don't have a air gun and need to remove the nut, then you can put a bar between the studs so it jams on the ground stopping the disc from spinning, then use a breaker bar to remove the nut. Good idea to put the nuts on when doing this so you don't damage the thread.
What the differences between PB plaster and WD 40. Would WD40 penetrate into the nut and help with loosening the the axle nuts as PB plaster? We do not need to put any grease on the groove of the axle before putting it back to the hub at 10:53? Thank a lot for the video mate
I also wonder about the warning of oil on the thread. WD40 is actually short for 'Water Displacement'. It protects and lubricates but really do not penetrate that good. The recipe below, 50% transmission oil and 50% Acetone, should be better than any brands. But be aware that if a penetrant is really needed it will need time to have effect and more than a few minutes.
Peter's answer is right and the formula for PB Blaster is similar to what he mentioned. It's lubricant mixed with a solvent. The solvent helps to penetrate rust and gets the lubricant in. WD-40 is basically garbage, however it has it's uses. One of it's greatest advantages is what Peter mentioned, water displacement. If you have old spark plug wires that are letting moisture in and causing poor starts or no starts due to moisture, you can spray the wires with good old WD-40 and it will push the water out and make better spark and start the vehicle. This is a sign you need new spark plug wires.
Sean Tu Viscosity it's the difference, the ability to penetrate more. Kroil is better than WD and PB. RU-vid Chrisfix and watch his coffee on home-made penetrating oil
Excellent video. Very clear. What I'd like to know more about is the part about replacing just the clamps rather than replacing the whole axle. I'm getting shaking at 60mph, same as you did. I had assumed I would need the whole unit.
That's a good step by step description. I'm interested in how the counterweights shifted. Presumably they have offcenter weights, and it must have been hard to reposition it at the right axial angle. Did the problem go away after securing the weights? Did you ever get the torque spec for the axle nut? Some of those have very narrow tolerance, and others not.
Thank you for your video I have click in my passenger side so is that mean drive shaft or bearing and this stated from 2 month and I still drive and go many places ,,so hope get your advice,,evan
I never had a problem with my 2006 Elantra's CV joint but I definitely did with my 1992 Integra. I'm not mechanic, but your video is a great resource for working on CV joints in general.
BRILLIANT!!! I now have absolute confidence, that i can save hundreds of dollars doing this myself. Well done. Keep the great vids coming. Subscribe?? Absolutely.
I am really not sure, I think I will try and take a closer look at the transmission mount and also see if I can get an alignment in the next few days and go from there. Have a feeling the old lady that owned this had a few fights with the curbs and what not lol
Amee Hassa if you don't want to spend $500-$700 on a snap on (what I use as a professional mechanic) and you want something to use at home, out live techs use harbor freight and seems to have good luck with them. $85.
when my dad was drive my car and whenever he brakes, there a dink. it keeps on make the noise unit the car stops and it can be loud, on the passenger side near the transmission.and it not the brakes. could it be the cv axle??
Jerry is right. As long as everything remains the same as you started, no alignment needed. The only time an alignment is needed usually is when replacing struts, or possibly tie rods or steering components. I've never seen, nor heard of axle jobs needing an alignment.
He removed the strut to spindle bolts that's where camber alignment is adjusted you can possibly get away with out having an alignment done by putting the bolts over the marks if it's out so will toe.
Funny how all these diy repair videos from 2013 2014 starts with a low voice hey guys like it's not a big deal at all, now in 2022 the intro is so hyped and the ads and the loud voice and excitement makes it like he's the only one in the world who's ever done that.
Were trying to replace a cv joint on my dads 2004 ram 1500 but we cant get it back onto the transmission. We didn't take off tie rods or anything like you did because a different video from 1A the guy left it all on. Do you think if we take them off the cv joint will fit in better?
@@xVSxTerminator ...maybe a good idea is to *totally* drain the trans fluid.....do the axle change out.....and refill the trans with the same fluid. You drain it into a clean container before-hand.
Got to ask 2 things. 1st: why was it neccessary to take the whole axle shaft off, just to slide/readjust/replace the balancing weight? 2nd: Why was it neccesasary to take the tie rod off and the spindle-to-strut bolts off when you could have, with the same success, taken off the lower ball joint and remove the axle that way?
Hi, 1. it wasn't, I just did it to show the procedure for the video. 2. It is more often than not easier to take the outer tie rod end and knuckle to strut bolts off than the lower ball joint. But for an even easier way watch my latest video on CV axle replacement here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ddwxYJCZ4yY.html cheers
Sadly I was able to do everything except remove the axle from the transmission. On the driver's side on my Volvo XC60 it just wont budge no matter what. Several mechanics have also tried and not been able to get it out. Is there some kind of trick to this or am I just screwed?
@@corruptedcornbread856 Sadly yes. After the intial attempts with prying tools failed, one of the mechanics tried a rotary hammer tool and it still would not budge. There is absolutely no play in it.
I have a question, not relevant to this subject, how wheel stops when we fully turns the steering wheel to either side, is there any stopper rubber etc that stop the wheel to turn further for Toyota Camry 2009. Thanks for your great vedios.
thanks very much for your video, i am looking to replace my cv's (not paying someone else to do it) your video has given me excellent insight on the process and i have confidence i can do it. thanks mate!
Hi Ratchets And Wrenches, on the seal on the transmission, you say to wet it with some transmission fluid. How about some axle grease. Would that be better or would axle grease dry the seal out?
The weight on the axle has to be in the rite position like a tire or it wont work and you can't guess the location, also the weight of the screw mechanism on clamps can cause additional balance issue.
BRILLIANT!!!. Cool vid keep up great work - were do you locate the weights on the shaft (centered?) if they become loose - I think I have same issues.... 2004 Honda accord EX. Springfield,VA
Thanks man for the video I have to do the same thing on my 06 elantra because I'm having the same problems you said your car was having. I'm planning on just replacing the axle and why I have it torn apart I'm replacing the wheel bearing and hub also.
I need to know where the transmission fluid goes in a 2003 Saturn Ion after replacing the CV axle on the driver side. Cuz when I took out the old one transmission
If the wheel is stuck on there after you take the nuts off, give the bottom of the wheel a small kick towards the engine and it will usually come right off :)
