I just did this on my wife's 2015 Corolla S, two days ago, for the second time. Note the depth of the old seal when before you remove it. Mine was on the driver's side and you can actually install the seal too deep. If you 'drive it home', there's a good chance the new seal will leak too. That's why I was doing this a second time. Great video Sir!
So I did the seal on mine and was being careful not to drive it home and mine is still leaking!! I'm going to try to put another new one in tomorrow!!! It's kinda hard there's not alot of room to get it in there
Mr. Toyota Maintenance is a Master Mechanic!!!! He makes every job he performs look so easy. This is a sign of a really talented mechanic. Plus, he knows many "tricks" to make jobs more easy. He reminds me of a Guitar Instructor I had way back in my youth. He would always teach the "proper" instruction first, then he would introduce me to "short cuts" that made the same note or sound and was more easy to transfer to the next note or chord. Both of these men are Master's of their trade!!!!
That o-ring issue that Peter mentioned is incredibly important! 25 years ago, a mechanic (at a dealer) did not do it correctly and it cost me over $1000 for repairs because the splines got ruined when the shaft came out. I had the work done at a dealership at the other end of the country and they refused to take responsibility for their mistake -- so, no recourse. That was with a Nissan. They lost a potential lifetime customer due to that. Never again, Nissan. From there, it was, "hello Toyota."
I really appreciate the care you take with those vehicles sir, as well as how good of a job you do in explaining things to us. You just earned a faithful subscriber!
Outstanding video sir. I especially appreciate how you do this repair without any "special" tools. However, if I may be so bold, an important step when draining any fluid is to make sure that you are able to access fill port. I changed an axle out in my dad's 1991 cadillac brougham. You have to open rear differential to do this. Afterwards, I had a heck of a time opening filler port. Someone had stripped the original fastener and I had to weld a piece of square stock and then welded a nut to the end of square stock to access it.
Thank you for your professional instructions. I've never done this before, now I've got confidence to go ahead. Just bought a used vehicle for my self 😊
@Toyota Maintenance - Thank you for the tip to install the new seal suing the old one. I struggled for two days, as I could not find the right seal driver for my front cv joint. Watched your video, and 30 minutes later, my new seal is installed and flushed. For the CV-joint, after wrestling for 20 minutes, I then used the steering knuckled as leverage and press it against the axle nut side, and it drove the cv-joint in straight. I liked your video for the tips.
Length is perfect to capture all the detail. Much appreciated. Looks ro be exact issue i have on my 07 yaris, so I'll be attempting this at home. Great vid! Subbed That seal idea is the same i used to replace my fork seals last year. I used old seal to take impact, and used a length of pvc pipe to tap it home evenly. Thanks for your time and consideration for the the viewers, your angles really help understand this whole process
The man has experience, and knows how to do it right, with zero damage. Toyota axle oil seals are different than others, they have a opposing rubber flanges, such that you can't use a regular flat seal driver. A 48mm socket as a driver will work on this, but I have a '16 highlander and would require a 65mm socket (no such thing exists, maybe an SAE equivalent). But using the old seal as driving tool is great. I use a wooden dowel or a 1" square pc of lumber to drive around the edge.
Thank you this was fantastic. Not something I need to do, and maybe a little advanced for me anyway, but I was always curious how the wheels were connected underneath. Great job showing how everything fits together - it must be very time consuming to change the camera and lighting all the time as you proceed. Cheerio!!
Still not sure if the exact same procedure applies identically for the 2010 Corolla but I will jump over my CV axles based on your GREAT GREAT video, you Rock Mr. Toyota Maintenance!!!
Great instructional video thanks for sharing And replacing all the gear oil great job 👍Here in Canada 🇨🇦where it’s cold we use a little dialectic grease to help it slide in the seal and keep the rubber soft
You are such a lifesaver! Dealing with the same issue on our 99 Corolla today. I know if it's a video that you did, it's going to be good. Bravo and thank you for every helpful video 👏
Hey brother thank so much for the awesome video you shared. The only additional step I took was to smooth out the inside of the shaft seal on the engine side. Using very fine sand paper to enough to make it smooth! Thank you so much again, your video is helping many home mechanics like myself. God bless you brother 👍🏻
I did this a couple weeks ago on my 04 highlander... I ruined a seal hitting it too hard in the wrong spot. I really could have used your old seal trick then. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the insightful video. Do you have any tips on how to properly remove/install the set-ring on the end of the CV axel and Intermediate shaft?
I’ve owned many Hondas starting with an Accord in 1982, so given that I’ve owned about a dozen of them, I’m very familiar with Honda. I’ve never owned a Toyota but have been considering giving them a try. The information in your videos is very helpful and causes me to believe that Toyotas are in some ways better than Honda.
Honda Lost me to Toyota completely when they would not stand behind their 02' Accord's transmission problems, and they very much knew it was their fault. Costed me about 2 grand. Left them completely, have never been dissatisfied with any of my Toyotas, or the Toyota company.
Hello man ! Great video but for people that want to do it a bit faster I recommend removing the strut bolts instead of the lower ball joint… it’s faster if you are in a rush
What can cause the seal to wear? Is it usually something regarding the axle or trans? Do the inner axle cv joints get loose/worn and cause a pushing down on that seal?
Hi! Thank you for all of your videos! I'm changing my driver's side CV axle, and its stuck, and I can't get it to seat. Nor can I remove it to try again. Any ideas?
Great video! And I have a question. What if the new seal still leaks? I had replaced that seal on my 2002 Lexus ES and it still leaks. I used a new CV Axle and a new seal. What can be cause for that?
Can we tight the last nut by only long socket wrench or do we have to torque it. Will it be ok to use long socket wrench to tight it. Most of us don’t have torque wrench.
I just put a new one in and I made sure it was all flush but now it has a small leak. Should it be all the way pushed in as much as it can? Or slightly protruding?
