Finally! Someone who tells folks like me, what size bolts, sockets ,etc, very well done. I have NEVER subscribed to any other sites on mechanical videos before,until now. Thank you!
I went to a tech school for a year, graduated to of my class, it was a joke, waste of a year, I could've passed without even trying, all we did was hang out a shoot the breeze and read a chapter or two and take a test on it every now and again, and once in a while do some repairs. I used my time wisely though and was studying by myself about driveability diagnostics and electrical, and CPU controlled systems... which is all cars now days... they was in there having us turn rotors and drums on a lathe... shit we will never do in the real world today unless you work at a machine shop...I really did learn allot from RU-vid I ain't gonna lie... more than one year of tech school for sure!! hell when I'm at work and don't have access to service information I'll just whip out my phone and RU-vid something real quick if I've never dealt with it before... it beats b not knowing what your getting into and just winging it and maybe creating more work for yourself. I always thought that if RU-vid keeps going the way it is, theb only reason ppl will need a mechanic is because they don't have all those expensive tools. hopefully I won't even need to get my hands dirty soon if I can work my way up to be the go to guy for diagnostics.
Great video! Thank you! After watching I was able to find the oil leak on my daughter's G6 and then replace the seal in a couple hours - after my mechanic diagnosed it as an intake gasket leak, paying him $1,000 and bringing it back to him 4 times! Not having a socket that large, I used a 1.5" pvc coupling and a piece of 1.5" pvc about 18" long to drive the seal in. I also learned that the pulley bolt is a torque to yield bolt that is supposed to be replaced - about $18 at the dealer.
I've been a ag and heavy truck mechanic for 40 odd years this helps cars are new to me im retired . and your vids help out here's another comment irons iron it's all pretty much the same like beats buying a manual every time
The manual shows special tools to do this job I almost thought I would leave it to a shop but thanks to your video after searching all on the internet for hours it's something you made possible for me to get done
great video.. saw other videos where they want to unbolt the engine and lower it down. They even take the steering out and sway bars and drain the oil pan and use a tool to press the balancer back on.
Hey here it is 2022 and I am replacing the seal again, plus oil pan gasket,,,,,,,,,I saw where Chevy and GM started out sourcing engine parts in 2007. Most of the heads for V6 and V8 engines were out sourced and were not cleaned up or blueprinted prior to install.
Hey @Klowny1969 - Thanks for these videos man. The videos are much appreciated. About to do this job myself (unfortunately), just thought I'd point out that AllData is showing 125Nm(92lb ft) for the Chevy 2011 3.5 for the crank balancer bolt.
@@sicinthemind I'm not that familiar with this internet's stuff thing that's why the question.. Thanks buddy for the quick response.. Greetings from Portugal..
I couldnt tell by watching and i dont think you mentioned it, but you should put sealant in the keyway of the pully before installing. Without sealing the keyway, you could have an oil leak.
Thanks for the good video. I'm getting a sitting '99 Cutlass running and I decided to replace the front seal while I'm doing other similar work. Hopefully I'll be able to find something to hammer it in, maybe I have a cup or something that's the right size.
All good untill the very end. You are never supossed to use the bolt to drive the pulley back onto the crank. Because the bolt will in the beginning only engage on a couple of threads and you can strip them right out of your crank, you really dont wanna do that. Also the bolts are often stretch bolts that are one time use only. And it is never recomended to use an impact to put them back in once again because you really dont wanna strip the threads in your crank.
@@klowny1969 sooner or later youll replace a crankshaft over that. Ive done what you did plenty of times. Ive also seen 3 cranks ruined by others. Luck of the draw. Nothing different between what me, you, or they did. Hes also correct on tty bolts
Thanks for the video. Was helpful. BTW I found it easier to use the 46mm socket in conjunction with a small 1/2" impact rated extension to be able to hit it in the center and apply force evenly to the crank seal.
What about harmonic balancer washer ? I have oil leak from the front seal on my LS3 camaro. Replaced it 2 times already ( How to corrrect install this washer ?
@@klowny1969 Do you know off hand, what size nuts those would be. I would need to get some. Or another method instead of adding nuts and washers to that bolt?
At 6:49 if your balancer lands look like that there's a chance it's going to leak ; due to the seal wearing grooves into the balancer's seal contact surface . Your options are to replace the balancer ($40-$300) , weld the grooves then machine the weldment back down to size ( dont know how much that will cost since I've only done method one and three ) , or use a re-sleeve kit ($40-$50) .
Correct. Those balancers are aluminum and do get grooves. Depending on location of existing grooves, you could set the seal deeper so it rides on new metal. Doesn't the reserve kit come with its own seal sized for the larger diameter?
Great video but I have a question. When pulling the pulley off by using the 3 jaw puller and the crankshaft bolt, I don’t screw the bolt into the crankshaft? Also what size buts were those? 21mm?
Great 👍 job klowny i have a 2007 3.5 also love the 🚗 car but they sure are 🛢 leakers enjoying watching all your 📹 video's very helpful be safe buddy will make it though this crazy time😷🤧🤒🤕
I was also wondering how difficult putting the belt back on was. Any tips? Do you need two people? I don't see how you can hold the tensioner with one hand while trying to route that belt with other(?)
Love the videos. You saved me a ton of time and money. I have a quick question. When you used the crank pulley bolt as a spacer to pop off the pulley, what was the size on the nuts you used? I'd like to follow the procedure you used. Thank you.
What about pulling the crank pulleys of a 3.8 with a super charger? There are two pulleys and not like that one with the wide areas to grab with the claw. Only 3 small holes.
I'm doing this on my 2008 Jeep Liberty, I had to get the bolt out and loosen it by bracing a breaker bar on the frame, my question is how do I retighten it?
Hello I have a 2010 impala I changed my oil pan gasket , valve cover gasket , oil filter gasket , and it’s still leaking I haven’t changed this gasket in this video tho will this make oil go into my exhaust causing it to smoke because smoke comes under my car
3:14 do you really need a puller? I think I've seen people do it without but there seems to be a couple strange methods that I'm not sure I would personally use. And do you really need a spacer for it? I thought it would be just fine on it's own. Thank you so much for making this video. It's the lack of details that make me nervous about a job like this but you make it look very doable. Thank you 😌
I tried wedging a piece af wood between the balancer pulley and another pulley and no luck . The balancer would just turn trying to break the balancer bolt loose . I knew what I needed was impact tools but didn't have the money for impact gear ; Nor did I want to remove the radiator. . So I disabled my fuel injection system and put my breaker bar and socket on the balancer wedging it against the car's frame . Then I turned the motor over with the starter ; broke the bolt loose the first try . When I was ready to put it all back together I tightened the pulley bolt with quick jerky movements on the breaker bar similar actions that an impact would do , which makes me wonder if that's enough torque taking in account that the bolt will self tighten anyway when the engine starts running . Another option was to turn the engine in the reverse direction then quickly tighten it in the righ direction using momentum in my favor but no luck in free spinning the motor in reverse direction ; I did not remove the spark plugs which would have relieved any compression in the cylinders maybe making it easier to free spin the motor . Any comments ?
Bro my 07 impalas RPM is at zero but car is still drivable. It all started at a red light car shut off at idle took a while to start it up once it did RPM stuck at zero and won't go past 20 mph
You think it'll be similar to a 2010 Chevy Equinox V6 front wheel drive? because I see some fluid leakage (not as bad) but I'm thinking it's the seal you replaced in this video. Btw great video!
Lather up!? Lol... Lube up sounds better.... we aren't washing hands until it over!? Thanks for the video! Unfortunately I'm wrkg on a 3.5 liter Chrysler!? The belt sprocket has to come off 1st?! I like the old car set ups better !!! Take the damper off & remove the cover with the front seal on it!?!?!?! Who's ideal was it for timing belt gears & Seals behind sprockets 😤🤔🙄
@@ack0011- RTV is room temperature vulcanizing silicone rubber sealant (cures at room temperature) different colors for different temperatures and different materials you don't want leaking (oil, water/coolant, air)
boa noite eu gostaria de saber se você tem algum diagrama ou algum video que mostre de como colocar os comandos do ford contour no ponto motor duratec ford v6 2.5 ano do carro é um 94 se você poder me ajudar agradeço
What size washer and nut did you put on the bolt im doing this to an 08 impala of mine and trying to mske sure i have everything so i can breeze through it as fast as you thanks in advanced
Not sure how everyone is so easily getting that seal in. Seems to be too tight-one side will go in but not the other. Tried large socket , etc. Any suggestions anyone?
Hey I have a question I have the same problem I put a new seal in do you have to put some kind of glue around the seal for it not to leak or do you just put the seal in the in there
Great video. Does this engine (3.5 gm) have a timing chain gasket that may also be leaking? Or if its leaking from this side of the engine, it is definitely the crankshaft seal. Thank you.
Thank you for the fast reply. If it was the manifold, would it leak not running? It will leak just parked either flat or on ramps. I thought the oil level would be to low to leak from manifold while parked. I am definitely going to do the crankshaft seal tomorrow, just wanted to cover my bases and know what else to look for.
Hey..the 5hgen is a customers car..the 79 is also a customers car, i will be doing a dakota digital dash, fuel injection conversion, and corvette brake setup on it..once its all done i might do a video on it..i really dont like doing non-mechanical videos unless i have to lol thanks for watching and commenting
