95% of the time hanging the calliper won’t damage the flex line but since Toyota are rocket scientist engineers they put a small piece of hard line between the flex and calliper and depending on year/climate/road salt you don’t want to hang up grab a wire or anything to hang the calliper off the upper control arm or strut spring, hitting the nut to save the shaft thread is good but that way can damage the nut and it won’t thread on best bet is to put the nut on just so a little thread shows and hammer away this way if any damage the nit will rethread the shaft as it comes off...great video just adding some (just incase tips)
Thanks for the video. I needed the warm and fuzzy feeling that the axle would just pop out of the differential carrier. Why did you disassemble the brake though? The lower ball joint separates from the steering knuckle with just 4 bolts.
Those freedom off-road adjustable shocks are the reason they needed new CV axle same reason I do. Factory size axles just get pulled onto much by suspension on sequoias. I ordered trakmotive slip axles for this job
those are chinese axles. nothing beats oem. get oem reman or new, and reboot with ors inner boot if need.or reboot yoyr existing. nothing special about trak vs say napa chinese (regular, extreme,extended travel).
@@joshcapecod6098 Josh do you own a sequoia or tundra? Have you ever lifted the front end of one? It's very common for people that have CV trouble any real mechanic knows this. The axle needs more travel. I appreciate that you're a fan of the OEM parts(many of which are already Chinese); but how does a fixed-length OEM axles all this issue? And the paranoia about Chinese parts is pretty funny considering most everything in your house is made abroad.
ah the personal insulting begins. @@brentsanada6589 yeah i have a 16 tundra, yeah its lifted OME in fact, properly done no junk spacers. yeah i am about to replace my passenger cv axle and reboot the inner actually. if can find the 100$ reman oem will do and add the ors red inner boot. i did not buy a japanese truck built in texas to replace with sub par chinese metal. you can reboot with a 85$ ors inner boot and be done. check around any tundra forum, ask, see what others have learned before embarking, and find out about those xtnd travel axles.its well known the oem cv axles are far stronger than any aftermarket. is that cast metal? alloy? toyota is steel. and whats home appliances got to do with oh the specifics of cv axle build?
Good video man ! I just did the front CV axles on my 01 Sequoia today and followed your steps. However, upon completion I went to take the vehicle for a test drive and the traction control light is blinking and it won't go over 2mph for some reason. I try to accelerate and it will not let me. Any suggestions as to what went wrong or what I may have done ?? Any help would be greatly appreciated because I really don't want to back track all of my steps be removing the axles. Also I was driving the truck in 2wd/Rwd and it still wouldn't allow me to accelerate even though I replaced the front axles. TIA
@@automotivetech-vet I unplugged the speed sensors when doing the install and then plugged them back in once I had the axles in. Could they be faulty now that they were tampered with ?
I doubt it if u were careful, maybe disconnect the battery and touch the two terminals together to bleed down any stored energy in the modules to do a hard reset
@@automotivetech-vet I mean I was just doing the work at a normal pace I guess. Don't think I damaged anything but couldn't say for sure. So touch the 2 battery terminal wires together ?
Or slip axles... the problem with the lifted toyotas is there will be strain on the cv's or if diff drop is used the strain is put on front drive shaft operating at unusual angles causing it to need premature replacement.... a more difficult and expensive job then just putting in slip axles for lifted vehicles. I just got tracmotive slip axles for lifted sequoia same suspension as in this video freedom off-road
First gen Sequoia/Tundra: There's a 10mm hex plug on the front side of the differential and one on the bottom. Take out the front one first, just in case you can't (you don't want to drain your fluid only to find out the fill plug is rusted on and you have no way of refilling). After the front plug is out, remove the lower plug. Once the fluid has drained out, replace the lower plug. Put 75w-90 gear oil in the front plug until it starts to come out of the fill hole. Replace the fill plug. Done.
