If you are only doing one club, or a set of clubs, you can eliminate the welding gloves - just use a kitchen stove mitt. Ditto the heat gun - instead use your kitchen gas burner or a camping stove burner to gradually heat the hosel for a few seconds at a time until the head starts getting loose then pull it off. While the head, shaft and epoxy are warm is a good time to use your brush to clean them. If you let them cool it is more difficult to clean.
2:35, if I may correct you, a torch actually is safe to use on a steel head and less time consuming, you only want to use a heat gun on graphite since its more fragile
This is not true at all. DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN ON A GRAPHITE SHAFT!!! The heat gun will take so long to melt the epoxy that it will weaken the shaft. Resulting in a broken shaft.
I used a propane torch on an old club. The epoxy got so hot it blew out like a rifle and hit my wife 8 ft away and burned her. While a torch has been the heat source of choice for many years I highly discourage it for safety reasons. A heat gun will not get as hot as a torch.
I was a professional for quite a while, and the repair guys I knew all used torches. You've got to be smart when you use it, kind of make passes at the hosel and test it. Take your time, and don't rush. The last thing you want is to put a hole in your wife, for goodness sake! :-)
Use a chop stick to push the glue into the ferrule. Also, check swingweight (at your pro) before removing the old shaft and after as the shaft balance points will be different between graphite and steel shafts. You could fit tip weights to compensate for this difference
Never done this before, but I have a lot of experience with epoxy and steel shafts. Don't waste razor blades on mixing epoxy. Just get some dirt cheap acid brushes. They'll mix it great and help spread it evenly.
1. Put your shaft in a vice when you are hearing it, its much easier. 2. Tape your ferrules In place. 3. Use a dowel rod or piece of wood that goes into the club head easy to spread your epoxy.
Any reason not to roll shaft into glue since that's what I assume is the point of contact in the connection? Never done this before but I'm about to learn everything then try. Also are shafts re usable if cleaned up properly?
@@DIYReid you sir are an idiot no way was it mixed right and the swing weight was what ? And the tip trim instruction was what ? That's right you have no idea do you. Watching amateurs like you keeps us in business
Thanks for the info. I'd be worried that if I did that two weeks later the head would fly off! I would why they don't screw into the hosel and add a bit of resin to stop it working it's way loose?
Very nice video thx so much gor the insights! Question: If you change a shaft from a hybrid, will it damage the head of the club when using the heat from your experience?
The pros spline the shaft meaning they line up the weld on top, so when it bends it will bend correctly and not twist. You have to have a special tool for that. You can get by without it though.
After you sand the ferrule down to the size you want, take a rag with a little bit of acetone on it and do a quick turning motion over the ferrule (like turning a screw with your fingers) and it will melt the sand paper marks out of the ferrule and the ferrule will shine like new.
Found this because I’m trying to reshaft some wedges. This may seem completely out of left-field, but do you get cluster headaches, extremely painful headaches on one side that only last a few hours (or less)?
Soooooo, the heat gun is to get the ferrule loose without lighting it on fire. The torch (that you didn't use) is what you heat the the hosel with. That's why you were heating it for 3 days
OK, now how do you do it without melting the original ferrules? I have a set of matching #s vintage MacGregor M/T irons with rusty shafts which I would like to redo. But I want to preserve the serial numbers which are on the ferrules. Hope you can help.
That 2 set bottle he has there will do a few sets of irons. Its fairly inexpensive to buy those. Just look at like a golf galaxy or an edwin watts, etc.
Because you want the hosel and the shaft hollow to be full of the epoxy as well, the excess will fill the void in the shaft reinforcing the area of the shaft inside the hosel. Putting it just on the shaft will cause the hosel to push the epoxy backwards off the shaft and you'll end up with too little where you need it. You want the squeeze out to fill any irregularities between the shaft and club head.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HqvZnZBIhD0.html It's "Smooth City" by Flat Theory. Download the app "SoundHound" to your smart phone, and it will usually identify most music for you. That is how I found this tune.
You didn't show actually cutting the shaft to length. Should you have done? I have a Titleist 712U utility club, similar to yours. The specification length is 39.5". Is this length achieved without any trimming of tip or butt?
@@DIYReid I've ordered the shafts for the 712U 2 Iron, 3 Iron and 4 Iron. Dynamic Gold SL R300. I'm waiting to see how the lengths come in. The standard lengths of the assembled clubs should be 39.5", 39.0" and 38.5" respectively. If the shafts I've ordered come in uncut then it will be easy to tell. I'll let you know here. The epoxy you are using - is that just a proprietary "Araldite"? You can buy this sort of adhesive in the "Rapid" type or the slower cure type. Which one are you using? Also the wire pipe brush - what size are you using? The smallest I can find at the moment is around 13mm.
@@DIYReid OK - The shafts arrived today. They are different lengths which indicates they are intended for graduated club length. Measuring the existing club (with existing shaft which is too stiff for me) it is standard length, (39.5"). The longest shaft in the delivery is actually approximately 2" too long. I'm guessing the others will be too. So, is it the tip that fits into the hosel that needs trimming or is it the butt where the grip slides on? How do I find this out? How did you buy a shaft that was already the fitted length? Was it a new shaft or a shaft you took out of another club? Because I don't know any supplier of shafts that would cut a shaft to what they think is the right length. Surely some cutting/trimming is necessary, even if it turns out its the butt end. Last question - when fitting a different shaft, did you consider a) overall club weight and b) swing-weight? Both of these factors can affect playability. Offering up a lighter shaft would make a difference. The shafts I am going to fit are TT Dynamic Gold SL R300 which are substantially lighter than the standard Dynamic Gold. Standard DG R300 are quoted at 127 grams. DG SL R300 are quoted at 105 grams. This could make a difference of just over 7 swing-weights.
I don't know what you do as a real job, but your clueless about building clubs...the things you forgot to do (or did not know to do) shaft spine alignment, swing weight, just to mention a few.
@@mickb4691agreed, knowledge IS power. Here is some knowledge for you. It is “ you’re “ which is short for “ you are “. You used “ your “ in your comment, which denotes ownership. Now, your knowledge is complete. Have a nice day.
