GOLF CLUB BUILD - How to reshaft your irons Step by Step 

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.

I've done this a long time, and it still feels great to look down at a club that you put together!

Congrats. Glad to hear the videos were helpful.

Ummm. I hope so too.

Great! If you have any questions, post it here. I try to respond asap.

@@EFGMC it was fun! I reshafted two 6-irons to try the graphite shafts, and I have to say- it was much more straight forward than I thought it would be. I really enjoyed doing the work on my own clubs. Thanks!

@@joebeagle1009 Fantastic. Of course you realize now no club in your bag is safe! The tinkering flood gates are open.

Thanks for the support!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Sometimes I just need something different to look at in the golf bag. Also a convenient excuse for bad play!

Depending on what heads you are using, you might want to watch this video also. Some Callaway hosels require a bit more work to get a good fit. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eSdutT5NU40.html

@@EFGMC Thanks for the link appreciate it. A few years ago I built a set of Callaway X and your correct the shafts can be a little fiddley.

Thanks for watching!

Love hearing that. It gets easier and faster as you get more used to the process and any little variations that can come up with different brands.

Yeah, I feel your pain. Those were 10g weights I used in about half the heads. I like the KBS Tour shaft but it's a PIA when it comes to swing weight. Just went with Nippon with my new build b/c I knew they are tip heavy by comparison.

@@EFGMC modus?

@@dcloder Sorry, yes Modus3 115 though the 120 and 125 are also more neutral. Stay away from the older NS Pro as they are more butt weighted again.

Thanks for watching. I don't believe that aligning the shaft in specific orientations is of any discernible benefit so I don't do it. But if you have the means to identify and feel it's a benefit, then I say go for it. I just would never pay for it.

I've seen that trick from a Mizuno video I believe. I think McGolf also uses it for frequency matching. For me in the time it takes to get the fishing line cut and lined up, I can have already weighed out 3 clubs, but if you're worried about dropping a pristine new head on the ground, I can see the appeal.

If they are steel shafts, usually easier to torch it, then twist the head to break the epoxy bond.

Here is the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wpVbsmVshyw.html

Yeah, I always default to simple when it comes to aesthetics. Logos down, plain black ferrules, single sight line putters. Boring stuff but less distracting for me.

Thanks for watching.

The one in this video is from Golfworks. It's the smaller option and although I liked a lot about it, I would not recommend it. I've had two of them fail (bad motors). Ungraded to the larger 1/2 HP version now and it seems like the better choice. Hopefully it continues to be!

Good Questions. If you put a 5I shaft into a 6I it will play stronger or a 6I shaft into a 5I will play softer. I install the grip on to the shaft prior to swing weighting the head to account for grip and tape weight. Epoxy is about point 1 SW.

I do. It's just over 1 inch, call it 1 and 1/16 to 1 and 1/8. Are you trying to figure out final length with some used shafts?

@@EFGMC Thanks! I'll probably keep the same shafts (C-Taper Lite S) but at the moment I'm just playing with a couple swing weight and MOI calculators to see how they flow into my wedges (Glide Forged with KBS Tour S). I've got the wedges taken apart here but the irons are in FL. Using your head weights as placeholders, but I know I'll have to actually take them apart eventually to get them accurate. Thanks again.

Thanks for watching and subscribing

All golfers can hit every flex. But I believe the flex they can control direction the best, in their chosen head, weight and length. Thus optimizes the fit.

@@johnknobbe8247 My point is that far too many people get too wrapped up in the idea of flex or hitting exact CPM numbers, and from my experience it's just not that important. Yes it has value, and my comment about hitting a flex vs. x flex was a bit tongue and cheek but still holds. See people going back and forth in there heads between 2 flexes all the time and it just doesn't seem to matter much. And I would argue whatever fitting differences you observe will very often be negated or a least flattened out after more time with the clubs.

Start with this video. I do the entire build using very basic tools. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rwKquntylmM.html

I would use the level on your phone to make sure the face is perfectly up and down before putting the grip on.

I use the slit grip method sometimes, just have to be careful that the shaft doesn't start cutting into the grip cap and throw off the weight. SW on these came out to D3. These heads were all quite light to start with. Thanks for watching. Sorry for the slow reply. These youtube comments don't always alert me when they show up.

Some people agree with you. I have done sets using MOI matching and personally never found a benefit from it for myself but I know others who like that feel. The simple way to do it is progressively SW the set going .6 SWP (swing weight points) per iron going heavier from long iron to short.

Tip weighting basic rule is 2 grams per 1 swing weight point change. I like to weigh all the heads first and check if they have a constant 7g change. That gives a good indication of how much weight I might need to add to get everything in line. If you are talking about the graphics on the shaft, you can align them however you choose. I always default to logo down. If you are talking about shaft band stickers, they usually go an inch or so below the grip.

I used cut grips for a long time but then was told it can lead to inconsistent shaft depth and length since the steel shafts start to cut into the rubber over time. Also it just gives an approximation of the weight, which can be off spec by a gram or more besides just stock weights all being slightly different. My way, at least I know the weight is right on. Though honestly, either method probably gets the same result within 1 SWP so I say do whatever you prefer. Won't get into the spining.😁 If it works for you and as long as you aren't paying someone $30 per shaft to do it, I have no problems with it. Thanks for watching!

@@EFGMC I do the spining myself :) so its cheap.

RU-vid_isn't_letting_spacebar_work.??_You_will_need_new_ferrule_if_the_old_one_is_deformed.Just_use_little_more_heat_to_get_it_off.

It can be hard to find exact specs and the OEM websites will not have them but you can usually find some different charts online or look at some component club brands (like Maltby who shows the head weights) to get an idea where the weight should be for a blade style or GI iron.

@@EFGMC Thanks. It can be overwhelming searching the net for club specs, only to find yourself chasing your tail. Thanks for the info, Jon

I haven't done any Sims. M5 is the most recent I've done. No issues there. Have not heard of any weirdness with the Sim. Would recommend just pulling one iron head for inspection before getting into the whole set. If you see anything odd, let me know.

Thank you so much for not only the reply, but a fast one!! Some of the online bigger golf stores should take notice of excellent customer service like this.

Sorry, A ps.... love your work setup and very envious!!

If you cut the shafts to playing length before assembly. If you have a SW scale, you can then rubber band the grip onto the end of the club where it would sit and take the measurement with the head just on the shaft but not epoxied. Just be careful that you don't drop the head when moving things. You could also go ahead and grip the shafts beforehand to make the measuring easier. You can also place a piece of fishing line over the shaft tip and them insert it into the hosel to temporarily hold the head on without epoxy. If you do the fishing line and preinstalled grip, you can also use an online swing weight calculator if you don't have a real one.

Thanks for watching. There are various viewpoints on Spine, FLO, PURE etc. My take (and I am planning some videos on the subject) is it does not matter if a shaft is oriented or not. Two main reasons. First, the shaft is bending not in a single plane, but in countless planes as it rotates during the swing so trying to align a shaft in any one orientation disregards all the other ways it bends during the swing. Second, if a shaft is "round" and bends the same around it's circumference, alignment is not going to benefit you. If a shaft is out of round to a point where say logo up produces a stiff equivalent flex but logo 90 degrees from there produces an R flex, that shaft is junk and should never have made it out of the factory. All that being said, if you are doing it yourself and not paying for it, then I say go for it if it gives you more confidence. As far as which direction to install if you do, some people will say with spine pointing on target line and some will say at 12 o clock position. I think more people lean towards the 12 o clock method but again I don't believe in it myself so don't have a dog in that fight.

@@EFGMC Thank you very much for the response. So, I guess I'll go for it. I'll try to match swing weights and see how well, or not so well, it works. Again, thank you. I look forward to seeing more of your videos on this subject.

To answer your question about Spine and FLO aligning the shaft, I would have to say after 17 years of doing both on ALL of my clubs and any I build for customers, I would NEVER think to play a club that I did not do the Spine and FLO alignment work on the shafts. Does it make a difference? YES IT DOES. To prove my statement, let me tell you a story of when I was looking to buy a used driver to re-build for myself. I found two drivers, exact same make and model, same factory shaft, same flex. Only difference was one driver the head looked like new, the other the head had a number of clips broken off the paint on the crown of the head. Well used to say the least. I decided to hit both on a launch monitor to see how they felt and performed. The driver with the like new head was terrible. EVERY ball I hit I hit a big fat SLICE with it. The driver with the well worn head, I hit it DEAD STRAIGHT and long. Same drivers remember. The worn driver was $20 cheaper that the like new one, but the worn one performed well and the pretty one was terrible. Maybe that's why the pretty one was still pretty, it never to use because it didn't perform. So I decided to buy both to see what I could do with the pretty one to get it to perform like the ugly one. I pulled the shaft from the pretty one, did a Spine and FLO alignment job on it and then re-installed it in the head and put the grip back on. Went back to the store and re-tested the pretty one on the monitor and this time I could hit it just fine. NO SLICE this time, just nice straight and long drives like the ugly one I tested. Bottom line here. SAME shaft, Spine and FLO aligned, it the same head, same grip, went from a nasty SLICE to a nice straight and long drive. Does Spine and FLO alignment make a difference. I'LL LET YOU DECIDE. IF you would like more prove, I can give you lots of cases where doing the Spine and FLO alignment work did wonders for the performance of the clubs.

@@donfisher6659 I'm definitely interested in learning more about this before I start this build. I'd like to speak with you about it, if possible. If you're on FB, my profile is under my name and the profile pic is of my business Reaper Arsenal-South. I look forward to hearing from you.

@@jasoncampbell501 I'd be happy to talk to you about how important Spine and FLO alignment of the shaft is to how the club will perform when it is assembled. I looked on FB and found LOTS of Jason Campbells but not you as far as I could tell. I do have a FB account and you can find me under Don Fisher. I'm in Aurora, Colorado. I'm NOT a big user of FB and have only used it once or twice since I signed up to make a friend happy. Maybe YOU can find me on FB and get it touch with me so we can talk.

Those are tip weights you buy separately. They come in different sizes, weights, and versions for steel and graphite shafts.

I'm not sure. Got them used, however they were standard length to start with which makes me think they were just the standard weight heads, not the over length light ones. They had the Modus3 120s in them and I switched into KBS Tour so that is where the main weight "issue" came from. Modus being tip heavy and KBS being more counter balanced. You can add as much weight as you want to the heads. I have 10g in some of the heads and the shafts don't feel loose in the slightest to me at least. Thanks for your support!

That was just grip solvent, but I have also used mineral spirits when I run out of solvent. That step really isn't even necessary if you can brush on the acetone lightly enough and have the ferrule very smooth to start with (using extra fine sand paper).

@@EFGMC you can use another belt on your cutter/belt sander, to turn down ferrules, simple and easy, then just aceone in a cloth and turn it fast once or twice, job done :)

@@sving8530 All true. But as many people don't have a belt sander at home but almost everyone has some sandpaper, I use that method in the vids.

Yes to the shims. If you are concerned about the swing weight, you can dry fit the club together before epoxying and use an online SW calculator or app to get a very good idea what the SW will be. Just make sure you measure accurately and the calculator will be very good.

@@EFGMC Thank you!

It takes 4-5 grams of butt end weight to change the SW 1pt so I don't worry about it. SW is really about consistency through the set of irons so the important thing is that you are doing the same thing to every iron in the set. As for layering, 2 layers you could reverse or just double up. Most shafts will be wide enough after the first layer that the second does not end up overlapping with itself. Anything over 2 layers I do alternate direction mainly so they can't all peel off if you get a little solvent on them before you're ready to install the grips. (This is especially important if doing grips in the cold, where the adhesive does not stick as well to the shaft).

@@EFGMC Makes perfect sense! Thanks for replying.

Yes always clean out the heads while they are still hot and the epoxy is soft. Otherwise you will have a tough time removing it. Rust can just be removed with a wire brush or sand paper dowel on a drill. Follow that with a q tip dipped in acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove any last bits or oils. Never use WD40 is my view.

All the OEMs say they do, and usually they are pretty close to spec. On occasion you will find some random club out of spec but it's rare. Some people believe in frequency matching but I do not. I think flex overall is overrated in it's influence. I do think it's important to have similar feel through the bag for all the clubs so having similar flexing is important but I would never bother trying to hit exact cpm numbers believing that would make a true difference. I do believe however that weight is very important and that is where I always focus my attention. Consistent weight and weight progression are a bigger deal for me, and since weight has such a strong influence on the flex in a shaft, taking care of it, usually gets the other about where it should be.

@@EFGMC thanks for the detailed response sir. I am considering my first new set in over 20 years and have been trialling Mizuno, Ping, Callaway. If they all match swing weight then which weight would they work to or can the customer specify at the time of ordering?

@@JettyBuilder If you are ordering, they can match a requested swing weight assuming you don't ask for something wild like C5 and the clubs are 1 inch over standard.

I always do a side step when installing grips for just that reason. Also try and go smooth with it to lower the pressure so it doesn't spray out like a fire hose.

That heavier shaft will add swing weight so the brass weights are likely not necessary. You might need different weights to ensure all the irons SW out similar but will need smaller weight ones for that.

Thanks AJ, I think I will let him hit one first and then if need be, I will have to take the heads all off again :-(. Although I think SW is a matter of feel, definitely the overall mass has increased with the heavier shaft. Cheers@@EFGMC

The most important thing in regards to swing weight is ensuring all the irons have a similar feel to them. The actual number isn't as important. Really just making sure your 6 iron isn't drastically heavier than your 7 iron etc. Weighing all your component pieces before you begin is an easy way to ensure more consistent SW. 7-8g between each head will give you a good uniform SW progression. This assumes you are building with a standard length progression (1/2 inch per club).

Graphite tip weights have narrow stems to fit inside the graphite vent hole. However some shafts have very narrow vent holes and will need to be drilled a bit more.

The 7g rule is based off the assumption you are stepping in 1/2 inch intervals through the set. I think the balance point is pretty consistent in the AMT even with the weight changes.

Never think you need a collared ferrule. Get whatever design you want regardless of collar. Epoxy will fill in that gap during assembly and perform the same task as a plastic collar.

@@EFGMC thanks a lot for the quick reply! Love the channel. Really informative stuff.

Came from Golfworks. They have a few different versions.

I don't have a full list of what I use though I do cover it in some videos. Might try this one where I did the build with only basic everyday tools. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rwKquntylmM.html

38.5 is the playing length so you would measure from the base of the club head hosel up the back of the shaft to 38.25 inches. The grip will give you the final .25 inches.

If you don't want to save the old shaft, you can simply heat the tip and twist it apart. The shaft will be compromised but should come out in one piece. If it frays a little and leaves carbon fibers in the adapter, a wire brush or drill can remove those pretty simply when the epoxy is warm. If you want to save the shaft, you will need some sort of extractor to pull the shaft without twisting.

I would look at Golfworks. Lots of shafts, also have a table that tells you the recommended replacement shafts for most any irons. This includes giving you the specs including whether the heads are .370 or .355 Pretty sure yours are .370

@@EFGMC thanks 🙏 a lot for taking the time to respond to my questions and for the great tips

The ones I used were 6g here.

Yes they can be reshafted. You can send me a message if you want a price quote.

Because these are .355 tip shafts to go into the Mizuno's, the manufacturer has constructed the shaft to bend appropriately for the give iron head it matches with. If you were using .370 shafts in something like Callaway Big Bertha irons, you would usually need to cut the tip amount a certain length to play correctly in the iron head. After that, you would just be butt cutting to the final desired length and that would be the same regardless of tip size (.355 or .370).

Any big box store will be a roll of the dice as to what you will get. Might get someone good, might not. I can tell you that they don't pay attention to SW. They are only going to just glue and go. If you want it done right you need to find an independent club builder or you can ship them to me! If you are interested in that, just email me. aj@smartstake.com

@@EFGMC sent email!

Sometimes but it takes a lot of extra care to not damage them during the breakdown phase. Also if they are on graphite shafts, then no. Personally it's almost never worth the effort to save them unless you have no other option.

Grip solvent, which is a mineral spirits based product.

I think that if a shaft needed alignment you probably shouldn't be using that shaft. I've done a number of videos testing between PURE or Spine or FLO vs not and have yet to see any results that proves it's value.

The SW scale is from Golfsmith which is no longer in business. The shaft puller and cutter are from Golfworks. Can also find SW scales there. Rulers, drills, sand paper, etc, good old Home Depot. Loft Lie machine is also from Golfworks.

I didn't. It's highly unlikely that you are going to have a steel shaft outside of weight tolerances. And I bought these as a set from an eBay seller, so if one was off, it would have been a hassle to get it replaced at best.

Yes, the correct size shaft should touch the bottom of the hosel. Usually it's around an inch to 1 1/4 deep. If the shaft is getting stuck and not bottoming out, you might have the wrong diameter shaft, need to further clean out the hosel to remove debris, or ream out the hosel to enlarge the opening (last resort).

Yes, you could swap those two setups. Everything would fit without issue. The Pings are tricky to deal with compared to the Srixon heads, but other than that.

Those just have a couple extra steps. I don't have a set available to do a demo on. The main differences are you will need to sand down the shaft tips a bit because the hosels taper in at the bottom a little. Hand sand them until they just pass though the hole in the sole. Obviously one side of the shaft will be sticking further through because of the angle. Just make sure that the shaft is at least even with the sole on the short side. Epoxy as with any club remembering to wipe off the sole in addition to the hosel. Once dry, sand down the graphite tip until it's flush with the sole. Next you need to buy some graphite shaft pins. You will need to epoxy these into the hole in the shaft as a separate step. Once dry you can cut off the excess with clippers or a hack saw. Again sand it down and then some light finishing sand paper and acetone wipe like you would with a ferrule. That's it.

Thanks for the support. It's actually not fixed. It's just a gate strap hinge from the hardware store epoxied to the ruler so it moves and can be adjusted to match the lie angle. I know the USGA now likes to use the 60 degree rule, but I still think using the matching lie angle to the club makes more sense. And it's really only an issue if you are building a 48in driver where you could go over the limit for tournament play. Otherwise the differences are so small you will likely have more variation based on inexact shaft cutting or grip cap size. Not to mention all the OEMs have their own measuring methods and preferences.

@@EFGMC Thank you for your response and info. I’ve been building clubs for years and appreciate seeing creative ways to achieve accurate measurements. I’ll pick up a gate strap hinge. Easier than using the Hireko ruler and standing up every club at the proper lie angle prior to measurement and cutting. I also liked seeing how your did dry fitting. How did you deal with your 4 & 5 irons being the same head weight? I’m building a set of Cobra cb/mb irons and the 4i is 252 grams while the 5i is 255 grams. I’m hoping I can remove a weight port from the 4i, or I may add tip weights to the remaining irons to achieve a straight 7 gram weight progression. Any ideas?

@@mylesberg5731 If you have a swing weight scale I would dry fit a 6 or 7 iron and see where it sits. If you prefer lighter feel, you can drill out the 4 iron 2-3 grams from the hosel. If the test club seems too light, then I would just add weight to everything else and keep the 4 iron as is. Will depend largely on the shaft length and balance point of shaft you are using.

@@EFGMC That's a good point - thanks. If desired, can I drill 3 grams from the bottom of the hosel by hand (no drill press)?

@@mylesberg5731 Don't need a press. Do need a vise though. Then just use a 1/4 bit or similar and pay attention to stay away from the hosel walls. You can tape the upper section of the drill bit to act as a buffer if worried about the walls.

Depending on the heads, some will have a very loose hosel. Callaway, Ping, PXG all have this. You ideally need to fill that gap either with brass shims or drywall mesh tape in order to center the shaft.

Will come down to the condition of the heads and if you are happy with the lofts on them. Also are you doing the work vs having the work done?

Personal preference. If you have a caliper, you can measure the hosel outer diameter and try and match up a ferrule with a similar outer diameter.

I would stay below the striping during the sanding. To be honest I have never worked with any super elaborate ferrules with design all the way down, so I am not sure how they would react to sanding and acetone. If you have ferrules like that, I would sacrifice one and just see what happens from sanding and finishing acetone on a shaft without head attached.

@@EFGMC really appreciate the response. I enjoyed your club building techniques. Clean and thorough! Be well, sir!

Yes, grip solvent for both. I however no longer use grip solvent with the ferrule turning. Just use texture free rag or paper towel and extremely light strokes and the results are better and faster than what I show in this video.

This one only gets up to around 750-850F. Have the torch if I need faster. 1100F will be more than enough.

Thank you so much for replying, I have another question tough, I will be building my next set of clubs myself using your videos. But what happens if I don't use shaft weights? Or what do you recommend? Currently I have a regular flex Cobra F7 One Length set with stock shafts weighting 107 grams and D1 speed setting, I'm changing shafts to KBS 90... Thanks and keep making such amazing videos

@@sergioalonso9222 One length clubs are going to be a different animal from standard iron reshafts. Are you using .370 shafts? Ideally you should trim all of them the same amount because all the heads are the same weight. However you could also do a modified trimming with the shorter irons getting more tip trimming and the longer irons less, to help with trajectory. If you are trying to figure out the swing weights and match them up, I would look at an online swing weight calculator. Here is the video I just did. As long as you are pretty accurate with measurements, the results were very good. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sJALUBr51jI.html

@@EFGMC according to Cobra customer service, they told me the F7 are dual bore so I went and bought .355 shafts (7 iron length shafts - 7 in total for all my set and I will be cutting them 1/2") if that doesn't affect the weight and as you mention the heads are equal I don't see a reason to add any weight..again I appreciate your response

@@sergioalonso9222 Ok. Assuming the heads are all the same weight to start with and you are happy with the SW you get from that shaft at that length, you won't need any additional weight.

Most epoxy has a glass transition state around 200F so you should be able to remove it around that temp. That being said, some older epoxies require a good bit more heat. If it's a newer club, 350 should do it, if older, may need hotter or torch. Anything under 5% for beads is fine. You can eyeball it. I usually use them because they are in my shop but I don't know that I would buy them if they weren't. Wrap a wet paper towel around the ferrule before applying heat. That will give you a better chance of not melting it.

@@EFGMC Thx a lot for replying and for the incredible video help!

The Idea CB2 should take a .370 tip shaft. Of course it's always a good idea to pull the old shaft and measure just to make sure in case I am referencing the wrong model. Idea CB2 was only one I could find. You could buy pulls, but might be hard to just find two shafts that you need. Yes you could buy longer clubs and tip them more, but that will require you knowing how much they were already tipped first go around. Probably would have to buy a whole set in most cases so the cost would not make sense unless you were planning on shafting other irons. Brand new they cost around $30, so not much cost especially if you do the work yourself. Personally with the lighter KBS stuff like the 90, I would buy new as they have historically had some issues with the lighter stuff bending from use. Might want to inspect the rest of the set and check for bends also. You will need to tip trim to flex, and then butt trim the length if you buy new shafts.

@@EFGMC well I have a Adams wedge with the matching kbs 90 shafts. The 9 iron is supposed to be 36" total and the wedge is 35.5". Can I just pull the shaft from that wedge and add a 1/2" extension? That wedge is pretty dead anyways. Trying to be the cheapest cheapskate in cheaperville

@@screamwinter No reason you can't. Especially with the short irons any slight variations will be difficult to notice so go ahead. Only tip I would give is to epoxy the head and extension separately. I always like to turn the club head up when doing extensions so epoxy doesn't run down inside shaft. Likewise I always have the club sitting head down with a reshaft for the same reason.

I would probably suggest putting one club together first (6,7, or 8 iron). Guessing you are planning on cutting an inch or so for that 5ft size. Let them swing and hit with that one club at whatever SW it sits at. Don't think it will be too heavy and I personally like a heavier head with junior clubs. As far as being too light, see how it feels for them and how consistent the strike pattern is. Play around with a bit of lead tape need be until you hit that point that feels right and is most consistent for them. Then you can pre weight the rest of the club if they are too light for a cleaner look or just go with the lead tape for the rest.

@@EFGMC Thank you and Merry Christmas 🎄.

@@kgil35 No problem. Let me know how they work out. Merry Christmas!

@@EFGMC Will do and also you don't think the shims will cause a problem? I think my PSIs are a ..37 in the recoil shafts I have are 0.355.

@@EFGMC I've heard mixed reviews regarding the use of shims but again for a JR golfer that has a 75 mph swing speed I don't think it'd be that big of a deal.

Yes. Only time I don't is sometimes with PXG irons as they have an extremely deep bore that I don't always fully bottom depending on the situation. Any other brand though, I do.