How to Replace a Leaf Spring Hanger with Shackle | 1995 Ford F150 

Great to hear Mike! I’m glad that trick helped you out.🤙 That’s the kind of mechanic tricks that are lost over time. You are most welcome and thanks for watching!

I had to do something similar on some of the hangers and shackles. It happens. Great to hear! It’s definitely one of those things that’s kind of intimidating but once you know the steps, it’s pretty straightforward. Definitely takes Work to pound those rivets out though.

brian pearsall No problem man! 🤙 Glad o could help ya out! Good year of bronco! How much of a lift? Ever looked into long travel suspension for a bronco?

Nice man! 🤙 Getting rid of rusty hangers makes you feel so good! Anyhow, thanks for watching!

Tony Soly Thanks man! 🤙 Nice! The right tools and safety gear make this project a breeze. Good luck man!

Very good suggestion Nathan! That is exactly where the water sits. I think the other issue is that snow, road salt, and mud sit on top of the spring hanger as well. They are probably the bigger contributors to the hangers rusting.

Manny Hernandez You are welcome man! 🤙 I’m glad I could help ya out!

Thanks Max!🤙 I appreciate it! Yeah a shackle change on any truck is very doable once you know the steps. Take your time, be safe, and enjoy the work.

Thanks man!🤙 Damn! That’s crazy!😳 Yeah relieving the tension is the best method. I’m glad you didn’t blow your head off.

Andrew Hickey Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!

Thank you Abraham! 🤙 I appreciate it. You definitely want to pick up a grinder for this job. My advice is to spend a little extra abs buy Diablo brand cutting and grinding wheels for the grinder. It makes all the difference in how fast this job goes. No problem! Thanks for watching!

@@TheMinuteMasters since you are kind enough to help all us out, I HAVE to replace the passenger side ASAP, since the cradle rusted through, and now I have the shackle busted through my bed, lol. Which rear hangar do I need to order exactly? The rearward one since it's behind the tire? Thanks so much in advance!

@@christytaylor5554 Hi Christy, on raybucks.com there is a leaf spring hanger labeled “1986-2007 Ford F-150/E-150 Van Rear Leaf Spring Hanger Kit”. It’s $36.60. That’s the rearward hanger so behind the wheel for 2wd. ATS truck spring is the other site you can check for hangers.

@@TheMinuteMasters I just ended up ordering from the local dealership, used my supplier discount, lol. But for SOME bizarre reason, they don't carry the shackle bushing, that bolt, or grade 8 bolts and locknuts. What's the length of the frame bolts and what TPI count if you know. Same question for the bushing bolt. This seems like fun though, much easier than replacing the head on on the 300i with a freshly planed iron head, lol. Thanks again! 🥰👍

@@christytaylor5554 Hey, that works too! Really? Well I don’t know that info off the top of my head. Usually guys buy grade 8 bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts to bolt the hangers on. As far as bolt length, I would assume the frame to be 3/16ths and the hanger to be the same. Then figure enough length for the washer and nut. Probably 1” to 1-1/8” length bolts should do the trick. Take the hanger into the hardware store to get the correct diameter. TPI won’t matter much. I would go for fine a thread though. As for the bushing bolts, I don’t know the specific about that either. I would measure the wide of the hanger, outside face to outside face. Add enough length to that measurement to get the length of the bolt you need. Oh yeah! Replacing these hangers is much simpler than engine work. Lol You’re welcome!

Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it! I do try to put my phone on a stand when I can. I’ll make sure to do it more often. Anyhow, thanks for watching!

Daniel Patton Yup! I usual thread the bolt whatever way makes it more convenient to put it on. In this case, I believe the fuel tank was in the way.

Nice!🤙 Good luck with the repair and if you are grinding, watch your eyes.

@@TheMinuteMasters yep ened up using grind wheel for 2 rivets. Other 2 were easy took 1 min...my brkt was busted in 2

@@waltwood4113 Nice! 🤙 Really?

Sara Sauerhage It’s good you ask. It’s a tight squeeze but there was just enough room for me to slip the bolt in behind. I think I might have used a pair of extended needle nose pliers to get the upper bolts in.

It’s not as dangerous as you think. However, it’s definitely worth taking precautions and keeping a fire extinguisher nearby. Sparks from a grinder are pretty harmless after they travel a foot or two. You would also need an active leak from a fuel tank for a spark to ignite anything.

Joe Dirt It’s the duel fuel tanks.

Pancho Villa The hangers usually don’t lower the truck. The drop shackle kits do the most lowering. However, I have heard of custom hangers that have multiple mounting holds for lowering options.

Elijah Rhuems Is it a new shackle? Mine fit snug on the bolt and there wasn’t much room for it to slide. I can check my f150 to see what side to side movement it might have. However, that doesn’t sound right.

Nope that’s a valid concern. The angle grinder sparks should not be a problem as long as you don’t have an active. If you want to go the extra mile, you can put cardboard in between the fuel tank and grinder.

I didn’t replace the bushings because mine are in good condition. If I were to replace them, a ball joint press and a torch would probably help with removal.

Well if you have any questions, let me know.

Good question, I just put it on impact tight. Otherwise, if I was to find out, I usually check for torque specs in a Haynes manual.

They sure can. Lift shackle kits do that.

That’s true. I guess I always use the grinder method.

Absolute best way is to torch them off, but most people don't have a cutting torch unless they're fixing stuff professionally. Drilling out works good if you don't want to be throwing sparks everywhere, *if* you can get a drill in there in the first place.

B H Is the leaf spring hanger rusted out or the actual frame rail? You can replace the hangers and shackles. If the frame rails are rusted through, you need to weld the frame. I’ve heard people drive their trucks like this, but I wouldn’t recommend it. But you got to do what you got to do. Good luck!👍

@@TheMinuteMasters the shackle has disintegrated and the frame where new one would bolt into is rusted out. #alaskaproblemz

B H Damn! Yeah, you need to get some to weld a new plate of steel over that area. Or cut and fit a new plate in. Then you can get a hanger, mark and drill the holes to install it. Otherwise you are stuck. Lol does sound like too much cold and salt!

Erasmo Martinez That’s the original hanger.

Nope, good question! Actually, I was confused at first too because shackle lifts usually are longer than the existing shackle and each hole increases the lift. On these trucks the shackle lifts are shorter than the existing shackles. The holes that are shorter than the existing shackle pull the leaf springs down which lifts the rear. It’s a little backwards thinking but it works. I’m not sure if shackle lifts wear leaf springs out faster. They don’t change the spring geometry.

@@TheMinuteMasters awesome okay.. not that i wasn't going to believe the ad I bought from but I do read about flipped shackles... or hangers? so hopefully they're not intended for like when the hanger has the mounting bolt on top? I mean it doesn't not make sense in a way but i suppose its just pushing down to create leverage or something. more rebound in the spring i guess? but I just looked under my van definitely is the same setup though the shackle might face different. but yeah it is not intuitive lol. Anyway thanks for the though you have been invaluable and super fast response on some suspension queries and I havent even touched a wrench on my stuff yet haha. I'm about to finish my body insulators ( ford factory rubber and even found NOS lower washer nuts) ( including some enlarged rust hole washer technique and in the rear there are holes in the in the body ( i cant remember what they call that channel ) around the insulator.. so I got a 4 foot 1/8th by 4" steel plate im just going to weld from insulator to insulator .. The only thing I don't like about these shackles is POLY.. I do love grease fittings and the idea of having to maintain things .. but I wanted ALL rubber as 1991 intended. Everytime I've been in an Uber its some modern car / SUV that I know is 100% polyurethane with nitro shocks and it feels like a mine cart. I do not understand why every vehicle has to handle like a go kart. Even my body insulators had to be sent the super duty style that dont have those little holes in the rubber as you may have seen.. but still.. even when I got them in on the passenger side I stepped into the back and as my foot touched the step and put weight on I could totally already feel this different sensation.. poly is good for skateboards and roller coasters IMO.. it lasts but still.. I go vintage because I miss floating over the road lol

so i finally got one leaf in! but like do you have an email? I need an opinion. Unless I can just explain it without pictures but ... anyway it took me like all day to finally get the passenger side in ( A LOT OF SAWZALL and realized I had the wrong hanger thankfully i could use the old one ) anyway i noticed before i did the preload jack up to torque the leaf gets really level instead of an arch. and its straight to curved upward toward the shackle i mean i assume thats what it has to do like we mentioned how its "backwards" unless its not meant for an upside down shackle? while the driver side is still arched up ... the passenger side does seem to be .5" higher on the body to tire but I also have new body insulators on that side. hmm. I'm just hoping its not the springs like when I cut the old ones out from hanger to hanger ( had to be done to reach things ) i noticed it had more arch to it than this new dayton piece or stanley spring. ive had it laying around waiting for 2 seasons but I mean its brand new so... anyway that or the old springs were actually perfectly fine haha.. the van in some ways was kind of a cream puff i dont even know if any body or anything rode in the back.

@@DS-mo6md Great! I’m glad to hear you figured it out! 🤙 As for the arch of the springs, that’s a good question. I haven’t experimented with leaf springs yet. Mine are original, and definitely sag and bounce a lot. If both sides have new leaf springs and you have assembled everything like it was from the factory, I wouldn’t worry about it. If you only replaced one side, I would replace the other side too and compare them. As for an email👇 sxtreacy@gmail.com

Nope, they bolt on. Very easy to do at home.

I’m not sure what that oval shape is for. It could be a bad nut or a locking system. Where did you buy your kit?

@@TheMinuteMasters its the Dorman 722-100 stock replacement kit. I got it through Advanced Auto parts. I watched a few different videos and commented this same question. Another guy said that its a locking nut purposely crimped on one end, and that its hard to get the nut started. It just sucks because I wanted to completely do it by myself, but I cant get enough leverage with the right tools to finish the job... So, I'm taking it to our buddies shop to have them put it on for me.

@@SebastianTheodore Gotcha. My kit had regular grade 8 hardware and the nut was I think a nylon locking type. But that sucks, hopefully you’ll get it done soon.

I think I mentioned this in the video, but I jacked up my truck by the frame. Set it on the jack stands and then I used my jack to raise and lower the actually suspension. Raising the suspension took most of the tension out.

The kit came with grade 8 bolts and nuts.

I used a think Carbon fiber cutting wheel.

It’s a 4-1/2” diameter and I think .050 thickness.

Roberto Lopez Ramirez I don’t see why not. I actually haven’t looked. If you couldn’t find the hardware by itself, at least the whole shackle + hardware isn’t expensive.

@@TheMinuteMasters i really apresiate your atention, thank for the answer it make everything easy before make a crazy things.

Roberto Lopez Ramirez No problem man! I know the feeling! Happy to help! Thanks for watching!👍

mike hart Nice! Bright Sapphire Metallic is the color!🤙 I work out of my garage. I’m in Willow Grove, PA.

@@TheMinuteMasters It's a cool color shes got a 95 Flair side.. To bad your way up there i had a leaf spring job for you here in southern indiana..lol

mike hart It is a cool color! Apparently it was only available for 94-95 years. Yeah that’s a hike! Do you need to replace the leaf springs?

@@TheMinuteMasters Both leaf springs are up against the bed mounts are shot on the rear.

mike hart That’s a bad one. Mine almost ended up like that until PA vehicle inspection failed me.

No problem Douglas!🤙

The hanger should curve up like a hook (smiley) and the hollow part of the shackle should face toward the rear of the truck.

@@TheMinuteMasters Hollow part aft. Got it thanks. CK10 79 Scottsdale Stepside.

@@WakeMarine You got it! Very nice!

If your hanger and shackles are in good shape, ie not rust pitting or rust scales, then I would keep them.

@@TheMinuteMasters I mean theyre probably some pitted but ... i mean how easy do those rivets cut? Should probably just do it so I can clean the frame too. I'm used to cutting body insulator nuts about the same size anyway which funny enough when they heat sometimes they back out. Finally got a bernzomatic lol

@@TheMinuteMasters got a 4.5 grinder.. i guess I'll have to test fit

D S They aren’t too bad to cut. Look for my spring tower replacement video. You will see in the video some footage of us cutting one off. Once the head is off, they do pack out easier.

D S Yeah definitely give that a go!

Do you have a back up wrench on the nut on the other side? Or have you taken the nut off and you’re just trying to get the bolt out?

@@TheMinuteMasters yeah the nuts off

@@hansdomke89 Is the nut on the back side? Are you replacing the shackle or the leaf spring hanger as well?

@@TheMinuteMasters I'm replacing the leaf spring. Can't get the bolt off the hanger. I was able to get the nut off but the bolt just spins in place no matter what I do

@@hansdomke89 I see. If you were replacing the hanger in the shackle a lot of times they will give you a new bolt. In that case you could just cut the old bolts. Otherwise I would try to take as much weight of the leafspring as possible and see if you can pry it from the backside. You may end up having to cut that bolt out and getting a new one.

1995 F150

Anish Singh Thanks man!🤙

@@TheMinuteMasters my pleasure dude!👌

Believe it or not, it’s very robust. I made this repair 3 years ago and it’s still going strong. I’ve tow three massively over loaded trailers with the truck bed full. Still functions as new.🤙

Like jack the rear up by the frame and leave the tires on while doing this repair?

@@TheMinuteMasters yeah

@@jaxonmoore9441 I like taking the tire off because it gives me room to work inside the wheel well. I suppose if the truck body/frame is jacket up, I may have enough room.

If you give me a time stamp for when I saw the hole in the frame, I might be able to elaborate on that. Otherwise I probably mean without having a hole in the frame you have to put the nut on the inside and thread bolt from the outside.