Almost 7 years later and this video is still great. I had the marina change my cable so I can't speak for the entire process, but when I got it back it did not shift correctly. So I watched this video and it showed how to adjust the cables after installation. I followed these directions and now it shifts perfect. I should tell the marina to show this video to their kids working on boats.
Thank you. Im a new boater and my mechanical experience is pretty good. With the details of your video I was able to do this without calling a service tech saving me thousand of dollars. Thanks again.
This video saved me hundreds if not over $1,000 installing this myself. It takes some elbow grease, but can be done by anyone without any mechanical knowledge!
I know this videos old (and so is my boat) but this is great. Very through and explains everything clearly without being overwhelming. I just fixed my shift cables in a few minutes and saved a trip to the mechanic. Thanks so much!
Without a doubt, the most instructive and easiest to follow video for this tricky job. Thank you so much SEI, I'll be ordering my parts from you in the very near future. Regards, HDP, owner of a 1987 Larson with 4.3l Mercruiser, Japan Sea, Kyoto, Japan.
I came here to try and understand how the cutout switch works as well as the various cables. My engine was stalling when I shifted into forward and I didn't know why. Thanks so much for the detailed walkthrough of all steps, turns out my cable to the outdrive needed lubrication, your video showed me where it was and how to remove the end so that I could just spray lube (WD-40) into it. I put the end back on and worked the cable back and forth many times and now it's moving freely. Turns out a stuck or hard to slide cable will cause the cut-out switch to engage, killing the engine. I'm back on the water now and the boat is shifting perfectly. Many, many thanks!!!
Very helpful! I purchased our replacement cable from SEI due to this video, and will look to them for our future parts needs as well. Glastron 249 with Mercruiser 5.7.
Awesome video! The only thing worth mentioning is the protective wrap on the old cable should be removed before attempting to remove the sheath or it will never fit through the opening in the bell housing.
Thanks for a great video! A couple of additional notes: At 1:37 in you undo the two set screws on the plastic cable end inside the boat to slide the cable end guide off. The small cylindrical metal insert in the cable end guide could spin inside the plastic cable end if a lot of torque were applied to only one set screw at a time, and this could kink the cable. So if those don't come loose quite easily you really need to use two wrenches, one on each set screw simultaneously. (Also on re-installation the same idea applies. Your video shows the insert I'm talking about clearly in the re-installation part. ) Also be careful not to drop that little metal insert into the bilge when you draw the cable core out of the plastic end. After 3:10 when you remove the shift bellows clamp and before 3:35 when you draw the cable jacket out you left out an important setp: You must remove the curly-cue cable sheath before you try to pull out the cable jacket. To see the sheath I am talking about go to 6:57 in the video where you show re-installing it. It is the sheath that keeps the cable jacket from being damaged by the exhaust. If one fails to take this step you can get pretty jambed up trying to get the cable jacket out of the boat. Otherwise thanks so much for a great how-to video.
this will help me on my 1st sterndrive boat as I get one I will use the videos as reference on fixin my 1st sterndrive thanks for the good vids I will learn a lot over time on sterndrive care as im gettin my 1st sterndrive boat soon as im an old salty I knew what to do on this stuff on sterndrives as I will learn fast in fixing the sterndrives thanks guys for making this videos for us old salts like me this will help a lot thanks guys
*HINT* first thank you SEI. Bought your shift cable on Amazon, then looked up a video. Didn't even know I got your shift cable until after I watched this video. *HINT* have some be your third hand and to sit in boat. Will help alot!! Last well made product, will be buying more.
This fixed my shifting issues. Hy boat would stall going into reverse. Didn’t even replace my shift cable. Just followed the adjustments you made after the new one was installed and boom. Shifts smooth now. Thank you!!!!
This is a great video. The string line trick really helped installation. But FYI... this video skips about 10 hours of work between 4:39 and 4:40 - trying to get the damn cable through the boot, lol :)
I just tried it, and when I try to screw in the shift cable, it wants to bind, it won't rotate all the cable. I wish I would of screwed it on the bell house first the feed it through the transom.
Great video and straight forward instructional process. I just bought a used boat and the bellows need replacing (torn). Your video helped me immensely.
How do I know if it's a standard rotation Drive or not? The standard rotation, clockwise or counter clockwise? That would be really useful information to put in here, thank you.
Great video, but I had a few things to add that may not be as obvious to the first timers. First, make sure the stern drive is centered before trying to remove the lower unit (duh). Had a heck of a time getting the cable guide routed thru on a 5.7L merc. (Tried the advised method but it wouldn't feed thru the cable guide?) Had to use a wire fish (carefully) to get it routed correctly. The new cable end was more rigid than the original which caused some routing issues as well. Lastly, I inadvertently knocked out the little plastic inside sleeve which, when missing, eventually if not immediately results in a leak. No way to get to it short of pulling the engine. So I took a piece of garden hose which was a little more rigid and smaller outer diameter than the average hose. Slipped the sleeve with a little silicone around the lip and pushed it into place with the piece of hose. Also, if you have one of those cheap remote inspection camera's, it helped a lot....
This is an excellent video, but I just removed the sterndrive and the gimbal pins. Yes, it was an extra procedure, but I found it less aggravating. Working in that tight space in the gimbal is difficult for me, since I'm a klutz. Oh, and I would like to add that a 9/16 sparkplug socket in another 5/8 deep well socket worked in place of the extended deep well socket that was used in this video.
Ive tried to adjust my cable exactly like you show woth the 6 inches and everything and it makes it so far out of whack that the neutral shutoff kicks in when i try to shift into forward or reverse.
The neutral is triggered by too much tension between the two cables. Potentially your shift cable is rusty (can try shooting rust penetrant down the sheath from the top side and cycle it a bunch), or your creating too much tension in the step where he is taking up the slack. Either would cause the shutoff to trigger.
Shift bellows hole leaking in water. USING A SPARK PLUG SOCKET IS A BAD IDEA. I tied to unscrew the shift cable with a spark plug wrench and it slipped around. Warning: This is a soft brass nut. Easy to strip out. My spark plug socket appears to be a little larger then the shift cable. Also it had some lock tight on it. I wanted to reuse the shift cable and just replace the shift bellows. So I ordered the SHIFT CABLE REMOVEAL TOOL (just a socket but must be metric or something, a 19mm fits the back side or it), the shift cable bellow, and a gasket set. Great service by SEI, ordered Sunday night, got today Thursday from Florida to Texas. Tip: The entire shift cable jacket has to turn when loosing the shift cable nut. This requires removing it at the engine and pulling it out straight so it can turn. I also had to remove the shift bellow by cutting it off. The shift cable tools worked great and did not slip even though the nut was rounded some. I had a lot of trouble getting the brass end of the shift cable through the shift bellow small end. You must stick the shift cable through the housing and through the shift bellow and on through the transom to the engine before tightening the nut.Tip: I took the part removed from the shift cable at the engine and stuck it into the bellow and screwed it into the shift cable. I then had something to pull with to pull the cable through the rubber bellow. Be careful and don't bend it. I greased it but it took a lot of effort to do this. When it got pass the brass end piece and to the rubber part it pulled easily. DON'T THINK YOU CAN JUST STICK IT THROUGH THE NEW BELLOWS. CAN'T BE DONE WITHOUT A LOT OF EFFORT. I finally got it all done and the cable is ready to attach back to the engine. I've spend $61 so far and not $600 as quoted. Good so far. Good video but not just that easy.
Spark plug wrench is 5/8" cable end is 9/16". Yes it can round off the brass nut. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a set of go through sockets and ratchet and use the correct size. Somewhere along the line you will use them again.
@@chuckroast5735 I took an old, deep, 9/16", 3/8" drive socket and braised a black iron 1/2" pipe nipple to it to make it longer. Grabbed it with a pipe wrench to un-screw the old cable. Waiting on the new cable from UPS now.
I unhook my shift cable to change the bellows , I hook the shift back after replacing the bellows, I check the 6" from the barrel to the center of the nut. in forward. now it will not kill the motor before going in gear. check the kill switch it will kill the motor. the shift plate is not moving enough to move the kill switch, I have clean everything check for anything that might keep the shift plate from moving, It moves easy left and right by hand and kills the motor. but not went shifting . I have been working on this for 3 days help
I can only get 5 inches on the shift lincage and the barrel at 9:09 do I have a wrong part or is it put in wrong it looks the same as the one in the video
One more question is the 6 Inch lower cable adjustment the same for a Gen 1 as a Gen 2? Not sure what Alpha generation you are working on if there is a difference. Mines a A1G1.
@@justinwebb8408 Thanks, 6 inches one the lower cable leaves me with no locking in reverse. Any idea about my red upper remote cable with no barrel. It's a US marine controller.
I don't have a barrel in the upper cable to turn. The cable also is a red plastic not black . Looks like where the barrel would be I have a clip with 3 positions??? My problem is after installing a replacement out drive I'm not fully locking in forward.
This is great video. Do you think you could do one from pre alpha with the cable on the other side. Too this kit, this video sure did help after I figured the housing difference. Thanks
Hey man I have a problem . When I go into forward or reverse my shift interrupt isn't moving either direction and it isn't bound up I can easily move the interrupt
I have a 1986 Mercruiser Alpha one Gen one. Purchased the SEI lower shift cable from Amazon. I'm having a problem (Per this Video) running the inner cable thru the threaded side of the shift slider. The nob or nut on the end will not go into the slider so that I can put the screw in and then hook up the safety wire. What am I doing wrong?? Has anyone else had this problem? Thanks so much!! Mel
I just tried the install, when I tried to screw in the shift cable, it wants to bind. It won't rotate all through the cable. I don't know if this happened to others, but I wished I would of screw it in before passing it through the transom. Even better if the bell house is removed when changing the bellows. What do you guy think? Thoughts SEI
I had the same issue. I was removing my existing shift cable (intending to re-use it) and it bound up so much it tisted the cable which is now forcing me to buy a new one. My concern is it binding as you're saying during reinstallation and ruining yet another cable.
@@ryangriffith2774 there is a video, someone removed the shift cable by just slightly bending it along. But, I decided to remove the bell housing and paint everything. I did screw it first, feed the cable and then reinstall housing. But the parts dealer will call you back to give their advise. They said to have someone twist the other cable end as you screw it in.
Hello i would like to know how do you get the shift cable to turn as you screw it back in i have a 86 mercruiser and the cable does not spin around some help please thank
i replaced my cable with sei kit and my 03 bayliner 3.0 mercury has the lower cable on the top and the helm cable on the bottom.. upon checking for play in the cable it.has about 1 and 1/12 inches of play? is that to.much ? and after i adjusted it it only goes into foward gear and if i try reverse its really hard and engine cuts off ?? im worried if that shift lever came out of place when i reinstalled the drive back on ? or if i twisted or damaged the inner cable when running through the outer jacket ? im hoping its just an adjustinmet thingy
So, new lower shift cable AND remote shift cable. All adjustments done per spec. With the lower shift cable adjusted to 6" from brass barrel to the cable end, pin on the shift plate set all the way down, shifter in forward, I don't get engagement on the prop turning ccw. I get a "clack clack clack clack". If I adjust the lower shift cable barrel out another 1/4 inch or so, then I get good a good solid lock CCW on the prop in forward gear, free spinning prop in neutral, and good solid lock on the prop CW in reverse. Do I have something out of kilter in the outdrive, could the lower shift cable be faulty? Perhaps some problem with the shift plate? Basic question is, should I run it that way?
+Joe Tipton I have run it this year with cable set as I indicated, adjusted slightly out of spec. It shifts easily and cleanly i fwd and reverse. The only thing I need to watch is that when I put it in neutral from fwd , I can't half-ass it. It's got to be all the way against the shifter lock.
@@johnhiggs325 I couldnt either..notice the video was edited at that point :) ... so I brought the cable over to the grinder...beveled the leading edge...it still wasnt easiy , but the hardest part is getting it started...which that little trick did. still had no trouble locking it down with the jam nut ...plenty of meat left a I just took off a mm or less
It's unlikely the cable would be the wrong one. They are all the same from 1972 to today for the alpha style drives. Is the drive on the boat while trying to get 6 inches? Can you manually shift the drive into forward and reverse just by pushing in and out on the cable? If not, that would suggest when the drive was put on the roller slipped out of the shift slide. That would be my first guess.
I pulled the bellhousing off of my bravo 3 and I am totally baffled by how the shift cable is inserted into it. It appears at least to me that the shift cable housing is pressed into the bellhousing from the back. Can anyone confirm this?
@@justinwebb8408 I just used an inspection camera to view behind my motor looking at the transom gimbal mount on the inside of the engine cavity. Not looking good.
This repair can be done without removing the lower unit and for the cost of the shift boot/bellows adhesive. Made this repair on my Mercruiser shift boot today. Takes two people less than an hour to complete the job. Estimate I saved roughly $1500 in labor and I'll be on the water tomorrow vs. weeks waiting for an open spot at the repair yard. Can provide instructions if anyone needs assistance.
Hello, I am having more than a few problems with this topic. I have watched several of the Mercruiser Shift Cable adjustment/instillation and can't get it right. One video shows the guy go over to the remote and put it in forward. In another it dosen't. Here is my problem: I changed the sterndrive cable, and everything went fine. I also changed some vinyl by the remote, so I took it apart and it was no good. I took one from my other boat, cutting the four wires. It seems to work well now, not jammed anymore. I have tried to adjust the cables probable 2 dozen times and it either goes into forward or reverse. Not both. My cables are actually showing in the wrong place, meaning that what you are calling the lower cable is on top, and vice a versa. Could I have forgotten to put the remote back together completely, or correctly? Can anyone help?
James Foster Please email tech@sterndrive.cc and ask for the shift adjustment document. That will describe how to check the control for the proper output and slop as well as any other shifting issues.
I thought that Standard rotation means, with control in Fwd. The prop moves CW...you are showing just the opposite in 12:38...this is confusing as hell! I'm trying to install a SEI lower right now and am having lots of problems.
I installed and adjusting the shift cable. It locks in fwd at the prop( counter rotation). Turns freely in neutral. But the prop doesn't lock in reverse. Does anyone have any ideal what is wrong?
Tammy Eich The problem with the metal clamp is that no retail customers have the right tool to install it and it can easily be crushed and destroyed with the wrong tool. The nylon tie is actually used as a fuel line clamp on outboards and has a rounded head so it it makes contact all the way around.
Hi , when I try to tighten the brass cable nut it does not want to turn from the tension from the cable , and the cable is not turning either , there is no binding any where, you seem to tighten the nut with ease, whats the trick , the nut keeps springing back as the cable is not turning, i dont want to damage the cable. thanks
I usually pull on the cable from in the boat to get it initially started in the threads as far as i can, then i leave it as straight as i can inside the boat and then tighten it from outside. If you have a helper they can rotate the cable inside the boat as you tighten it.
thanks, i will try that , the only issue i see if i leave the cable straight as i can , it will be difficult to re route via the y pipe after the nut is fully tightened no ? i did have a helper he was useless :) will have to find someone else
I figured out what you said , I went ahead and just straightened the cable and rotated in a circular motion and it seems to turn now , i just need another helper, will keep you posted, thanks
no problem. but to answer your question just that first corner is difficult, so you have to let it make the first corner then you can have the cable straightish and pointing towards the starboard side. The rest of the routing is easy.
Hi... Do you need to drain the lower unit gear oil before starting this job and taking off the outdrive? Also, my merc has been slamming into forward gear pretty hard. I know alot of people say its supposed to, but i feel like mine is pretty jarring (excessively... it makes the whole boat jolt). The RPM's are normal. Do you think changing this lower gear shift cable would really make shifting into forward/reverse gear smoother? Sorry for so many questions, this video has seemed to be the best yet and its been tough to get a straight answer. I plan on buying the lower gear shift cable anyway, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
