The water seems to be leaking out of the 'packing' nut of that valve. You can simply tighten the packing nut and that usually stops the leak. If that doesn't, then take the packing nut off and replace the old packing with new packing material. And if that is too much work then just take the old compression valve off and insert a new one, using the old compression ferrule and compression nut that is already on the pipe, it usually works fine with the new valve.
The issue of pushing the angle valve into the wall plate how are you going to remove the valve when you need to replace it due to a leak (push on release at the base of the valve)? you should have used a small hack saw to get closer to the valve.
I’m a compression , screw on person ( commercial electrical mechanic ) push on fittings seems like the way to go but I’m with you if you have to replace it 😮 , now I’m in the same boat, I’ve got to replace that fitting and debating on what to use 🤔
Hi, question. I had to replace my shutoff valve. When I took of the old compression sleeve, new one didn't fit because the old ring made the pipe a bit thinner. So I googled and found Sharkbite shutoff valve and installed. My question is, after installed, if I leave it just as is then it's no problem, no leak. But if I grab it and twist then water is coming out. Is this normal?
Do you wanna cut the pipe clean behind any bend or twist it, and make sure it’s straight and then sand it really good before you install the shark bite
Yep that is the scary part. Pushing it on if you’re worried that you’re gonna crack a fitting somewhere down the line. Good luck on your install. Thanks for watching.
That looks like a compression nut connection was already in place. I think you could have simply unscrewed the old compression nut, preserving the full length of the stub out. No need to cut anything..
This should be , 'how not to replace a water shutoff' you should use a hacksaw to get as close as possible to the old shutoff, then use the pipe cutter to square off 1cm.
I don't believe the 3/8 supply connection on the stop angle is national pipe thread, that is to say, a compression thread. Rather it is just plain strait mechanical thread, and not for sealing the connection. The water tight seal is made by a rubber gasket in the top of the nut. So the 'plumbers tape' really isn't necessary.
Good video and good job.. Second option is call a professional Plumber, and stand in the doorway as you watch the plumber complete the job while smoking a cigarette and drinking a cold glass of sweet tea, Then call it a day.
I'll be changing my shut offs under my downstairs bathroom sink from sweated to compression in a few days. My plumber said push ons are not "code"? sigh... Compression are pretty easy too...
Tom, my project didn't turn out well. The shut off valves under the sink are not a standard size so I am unable to connect ANY kind of shut off valve. I found this out after my water was shut off to the house. Now I am waiting for a plumber to come over and re pipe the copper pipes so I can have a valve without solder...we will be without water through Easter. 😟 this, though an inconvenience, is the first plumbing failure for me as a "do it yourselfer"
I wish I could put these on my toilets! I just don’t have any extra pipe. I think I’m gonna spray the nuts of the old compression fittings with PB blaster, let it soak, and possibly hit it with a torch to heat it up and see if I can get them off, so I’ll have more pipe to work with.
I know you definitely have to have a little bit of pipe to work with. Sometimes you have to cut out the drywall to get to that pipe and in some cases you’ve got concrete walls and older building so it is a little bit of a pain, but good luck on your install.
You might be able to use a new compression fitting with the old ferrule and nut by putting a little pipe sealant on the old ferrule. Then sock it up tight to the new compression valve. They also sell compression ferrule removal tools for about $25.00 US.
