I appreciate the video. Very informative and entertaining. I’m going into this blind never doing this before and you took all the guess work out of it. Keep up the great work!
Just did this repair, I am pretty sure this part is a specialty part because I only found it at NAPA as well. Thank you for the fun, casual, and clear directions on this fix.
AWESOME!! Never thought in my life that I would tackle this project. In the middle of replacing bad oil cooler on my 2013 Ram 1500.(I'm taking a beer break). I didn't even know what an oil cooler was or where it was located until a few days ago. Your video gave me the confidence to do it myself and save myself $1,500 at least . Thank you so much I just found your site and will continue to go to it for future repairs. I really appreciate you guys!!
@@seatime674I went with OEM (plastic) to ensure best fit. The dealer supplies two different size O-rings for the cooler oil tube that fits into the block. The O-ring used for prior to 2014 is 17.5mm; later years use 18.3mm. The aftermarket does not support this design change and uses only one size. Not sure how critical the O-ring is, but the manufacturer thought it significant to issue a Technician Service Bulletin and provide two different O-rings. I also read on Amazon some manufacturing problems with the metal part. Holes not drilled or tapped and rough unfinished edges. I used a 1/4 inch torque wrench and repeated the pattern four times using graduated values until reaching the specified torque for both lower manifold and intake manifold. Job is not difficult, just requires patience.
@@marccrotty8447 Yup my sentiments exactly all Oem.., I have the '18 Pacifica 3rd Gen motor requires the new one that is rare with the aftermarket, I also heard those same issues with aluminum and also has smaller passeges and some aren't machined flat and leak.. Some things just need to be Oem with important vital parts that mix coolant and water.. Yes 2014-2021 takes the replacement red 0ring and 2022 and up just leave the black 0ring on...👍👍
This was an excellent video tutorial and much appreciated. You showed all the major disassembly/reassembly well, you hit all the important points and you explained the finer points very well. Took all the mystery out of this repair. Thank you!
Thanks man I’m 19 just bought my charger and I’m replacing my oil cooler my quote was a whopping 1300 this seems pretty simple but will take my time thanks so much for video didn’t know what I was going to do without this video god bless!
Bro u the business frfr, you have know idea how much your videos has helped me. It's definitely true honest mechanics out there that don't mind share the gift and knowledge God gave them. Your blessing is coming
As someone else mentioned, Dorman's Aluminum replacement part is a work of art. American designed and MADE believe it or not. Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Just found your channel, Alex. It's clear you have a great crew that is detail oriented and passionate about working on the machines we love. Hard to find people like you. I'm redoing all this work that I paid someone to do two years ago on my Jeep with the same engine (finding that they cut corners and apparently didn't know what a torque wrench is...). Tackling the valve cover gaskets again too.
Thanks buddy. I might stock up on the Dorman oil cooler just so my customers won’t ever have that problem again.you are right it’s a lot of so call mechanic that don’t no what a torque wrench is, it’s a shame really out here missing up people stuff. I love my crew it’s hard to find good help out here. Happy wrenching buddy.
@@AlexTheCarDoctor Good idea to keep a couple in stock. Lifetime warranty through dorman depending on who you purchase through. Also, the kit comes with upper and lower intake manifold gaskets as well so if your customer isn't lucky enough to have a set of fresh Felpro's like the one on this video, you'll have some ready for them ask well.
@@mcbeanin You don't need to drain the oil or coolant. Use a coolant hose clamp on the hose that feeds coolant to the cooler before separating the housing from the block. Torque spec for the upper and lower intake plenums aren't much. Especially upper to lower. That torque spec is printed on the top of the upper intake in NM. It's only like 4-9ft lbs. If you go more you will strip the holes on the lower intake. So don't use an impact or electric ratchet to tighten.
Great video, it helped me figure out the problem with my 2016 Chrysler T&C. As Info, I had my mechanic fix it which cost $1213 (oil cooler and manifold gaskets = $469, labor = $450, new spark plugs = $173, oil change = $61, tax = $58). He indicated that it was a problem with the gaskets/seals, not a cracked housing. He said he has more metal coolers come back under warranty than the plastic ones because the metal ones are 2 pieces with more gaskets which is more to fail. He said he does this oil cooler replacement on Chryslers about once or twice a week. I hope I said this right, I know nothing about fixing cars.
The only thing i would suggest is to blow the intake area off with compressed air before removing the intakes. you dont want any rodent seeds or anything falling in after removal.
Solid video on this process, just had to do this adventure to my jeep, for anyone wondering Mishimoto has an all aluminum oil filter housing upgrade instead of the guaranteed to fail all plastic, spend the money and be done.
Excellent video. This cleared up some confusion I had concerning my oil cooler leaking coolant and where it's located. I could do it but don't have the tools or the time. Will let my mechanic do it at the same time he's repairing the lifter/rocker clicking. I hope to replace all the lifters and rockers.
This video helped me so much. I have been trying to make sure I have all the parts go get my Dodge Journey's Oil filter housing replace as well. I have less anxiety now. Thanks
This video is super old lol I recommend the aluminum oil coolers as well. On my newer videos you’ll see that I only replace with the aluminum oil coolers now.
Brotha thank you for showing me this video I literally did my wife’s Chrysler 200s and replaced the oil cooling system with the Dorman all aluminum one and it work great now, I also replaced the thermostat with an all aluminum too.
"A failed oil cooler is common on these 3.6 Pentastar Engines due to their plastic design, It can cause an oil leak or a coolant leak" boy i must be either real lucky, or im very proud on how i maintain mine. 200,000 miles with mine and havent messed with that
What all have you had to replace at 200,000? I’m goin to look at a 2012 charger se today 😂🤦🏻♂️ 92,000 miles and I’m tryna see the reliability I’ll get out of it
@@dylanhenry4329 only thing I replaced so far is radiator because I had a leak there. But I also went ahead and replaced the thermostat and water pump just because
@@AlexTheCarDoctor well it finally happened, i had to replace the cooler but im glad i ran into this video when i did because i knew it would come in handy.
Just found your channel. currently have a 2018 Wrangler getting the lifters and rockers replaced, along with spark plugs. 105k miles on original plugs! Thanks for the videos!
Hey man I really appreciate you dropping these for us 3.6 owners.. I am currently having to change my thermostat, and I’m gonna replace the OEM oil cooler for the aluminum while I’m there.. i know I’ll have to change the oil, but do you have a video on how to flush the coolant.?
A company called dorman makes a cast aluminum replacement it’s not supposed to break or crake or leak, idk why there’s not a recall on the factory unit lots of people are having problems with it
Reported leaks with the dorman also and speculation is because of used oil cooler not sitting totally flush because may be slight warp due to coming off imperfect plastic. Some units sold complete so better odds.
Hey Alex what can I say thank you for sharing this wonderful information cheers from El Salvador 🇸🇻 (Central America )man I apréciate the video God Bless you and your family 🙏🙏🙌🙌🙌
Don't you think it would have been a good idea to have removed them leaves and pine straw while the vehicle was outdoors? Especially since you're exposing the internals (opening the chest cavity so to say) of the engine. Maybe that's just me.
Maybe a long shot of getting answered , but I have a dodger Durango 5.7 L v8 Hemi. Today white smoke was doing from under the hood. I’m not sure what it could be but I had a friend come and recommended I try putting antifreeze /coolant . It was fine for maybe 30 minutes and the smoke continued. The noise sounded a little like A tire was losing air.
Hey buddy, Not a long shot I try to answer all my RU-vid fans. My guess will be a busted coolant hose or radiator. Do this, make sure the engine is cold top the coolant off then start the engine and let it sit for about 20 minutes then look around the engine for any signs of coolant/water spraying out while keeping a safe distance of course don’t want to burnt let me know what you see hit me up on Instagram to send pictures of your findings and I will help the best I can
This engine sucks! My Jeep Grand Cherokee has the same problem, you may be able to purchase the replacement rings from the dealer, but I think buying the whole part new is the way to go, this is a very critical part of the engine, you don't want it to fail. Now why would you use mostly plastic for this part, well ...no comment! Thanks for the upload Alex!
What are some symptoms of it failing ? My 2013 charger oil pressure switch continue to go out. And it connected to it. Would replacing this unit solve my 99psi oil pressure problem ? I changed the oil pressure switch with out putting the red and green gasket in the connector. And I think it causes the replacement oil pressure sensor to go bad. But I’m still not sure if it’s the sensor or the the entire oil cooler housing. Has anybody experienced an oil pressure switch that continues to god bad? I started having issues after a burnout on a rainy day that left my car in limp mode. Finally got it to shift and changed two oil pressure switches just for CEL to come back on. HELP
Anyone doing this job, replace it witht he aluminum unit. Its a bit more money but it will last longer. I did my not to long ago on a 2012 wrangler. There was no clear findings from others as to why these leak. Just speculation on cracking that no one ever seems to find. My issue was in 2 spots. 1. Was leaking from the cooler to housing gaskets. 2. From the oil return port for the oil filter. That port was warped from the imtense heat and caused the gasket to lift of the engine block enough it spewed out fairly badly. The plastic housing does not last against the heat. I bought this vehicle used and i could tell that someone has already replaced it before from the missing red clips on several different electrical plugs. There is a reason classic cars last. They were built to last. Modern cars are cheap and built for planned obsolescence.
Done about 20 of these now you would think this would be a redesign already but ….. denso makes an all aluminum cooler now don’t know how much better it is but time will tell
You mean Dorman and it is not universal for the Pentastar engines. It requires transfer of the cooler component from a '14 and up OEM assembly and it is not compatible with engines with cooled EGR. So it's not quite salvation. See "Motorcitymechanic" for the specifics.
Why replace the failed part with the same plastic part that is going to fail again ? Dorman has come up with a aluminum part that might be better than the cheap plastic OEM part that is junk
This is old but replacing with the plastic part now because mine went bad at 214k miles,that being said my truck probably won’t get another 214k miles out of it so it won’t matter it’s just about how much money you want to spend.
I have a 2015 dodge charger sxt and I’m noticing my temperature hand flickering in the middle going from around 215 on up to 230 and it’ll come back down to the middle. I change my thermostat and I noticed it look milky in my reservoir jug but my oil still looks good. Do you think I my need a Oil Cooler as well or my heads done messed up?
Who changed oil? Could it be possible someone accidentally put the oil in the wrong place? It happens. Also, you could have cooling fan issues, if the aren’t working, the car will try to over heat at a standstill and cool back down once moving.
I just put mine in with no experience. I put the updated full aluminum version instead of the plastic one that came out. I used your video along with another guy that has 2 parts. Currently 3 days no leaks.
Hey there I’m my experience it’s best to replace it think about this it’s plastic and it’s located in a place where it gets very hot, so to be on the safe side replace it
I got contamination from when I replaced the oil cooler. Oil got into the coolant reservoir tank on my Dodge Charger. It’s at the top above the antifreeze
Great Video my guy! I have one question i have a coolant leak from back of engine and draining down the oil pan. Would this part cause a coolant leak and engine? overheating
I'm going to be doing this on my Van, questions: do you need to drain the oil or Coolant first? What cleaner spray are you using? (nvm, just heard its brake parts cleaner)
The vid was dope in helping me understand the whole thing. So I replaced it and assembled everything, but I had trouble starting my charger for the next 30 mins after the install, and then the engine turned I started hearing a loud tick like something is moving or tapping in the manifold (toward the coolant reservoir), and still having the coolant leak. I changed all the gaskets and cleaned the surfaces as well. could my leak be the hose leading into the cooler causing the leak down there. And what could cause my engine from starting and making a ticking sound?
@@AlexTheCarDoctor coo. No vac and no outlet near. Thanks. What if a rat dropping fell into the intake? Im not sure but I do have rags covering the openings
@@anthonyhenderson2641 The droppings are fine.what I would do just to take extra measures if you think small debris has gotten down in the intake ports take out the spark plugs and crank the engine over couple of times that will blow any debris out the cylinders
While torquing the oil cooler bolt to 106 lbs the front right bolt head broke. The bolts were already very loose. I'm wondering if I should just use the original bolts. The new ones may be weak. Any suggestions for taking the rest of the bolt out? Maybe I can get away with the front right bolt missing?
I'm afraid to get a Ram with this engine. I read it was a reliable motor but can have a couple of issues. How often does this part fail that everyone is always talking about it?
The 2014 version is the update better part and it will work with no issues on your 2011-2013 engines only thing u need to not somewhere under the hood or on core support is you have to always use a 2014 oil filter from there on.. the 2014 model is also cheaper $$ wise from dealer / store ..
Seen prodigy replace the oil cooler with some special -AN fittings just don’t know what size would be better seal and better cooling for both coolant and oil plus you can upgrade your oil filter
Hey Alex! New to the channel and around here! Saw the video and will re watch it again to make shire i understood everything. I have a 300 v6 and on the oil part unfortunely i didnt catched that warlier i just replaced the oil with a week ago. It will be ok if i go and just refill what i miss while doing the process or just re-change it still? Kinda running on a budget since i dont have few tools like the torque wrench for this and the vacuum. Also, any suggestions for a substitution of the torque wrench if i cant afford one?
Great Channel and great information! I am in need of some information from a good mechanic that works on 3.6l pentastars. Seems like you do a lot of these. I have questions on fitment of 3.6l long blocks. Particularly, I'm looking at a motor to replace mine. The current year/model is a 2014 Chrysler 300 3.6l. I found a low mileage Jeep 3.6l, also 2014. I know I'll have to change a few things; oil pan, pickup, etc., but want to make sure the blocks, heads, and hard parts are the same. Can you help?
Thank you so much for share this work. I took my 2013 durango to the dealer and they want me to paid $1100+ for the job, they told me it was the oil cooler housing. Do you you recommend to do a blood test first??? The car was overheating and my wife said she stopped as soon she saw it was hot.
Hello Alex....I changed the oil filter housing and installed what you recommended a year ago and now is liquing oil...at least is a pool of oil all around and running down... Do you think the housing is going bad, is aluminum, o could be the O ring or gasket???. Like always thank you for your help
Hey there you will see oil in 2 places in the engine valley that’s where the oil cooler set’s and it will look like the rear main seal is leaking that’s between the engine and transmission