Many people can fix cars well. Many people can make good instructional videos. But not many people can make good, accurate, complete, yet not-too-lengthy videos on how to perform car repair. I appreciate your dedicated work.
Hey for what it's worth.. just did this job on my '03 Element - using a similar ball joint/bearing press tool - and you can remove the end of the threaded 'pusher' part - so it becomes a 'sleeve' over the end of the lower part of the ball joint. In any event, thank you Eric for the content you put out.. has saved me thousands in repair work .. being empowered to do it myself.. Cheers from Wisconsin !
Eric - this video was exactly what I needed. The lower ball joint of my '03 Element was shot and buying a $270 knuckle from the dealer wasn't going to happen. Thankfully Pepboys had the Moog ball joint and I rented their ball joint tool. Took some work, had to weld the old ball joint stub in place so it wouldn't wobble but it all worked out!
"a few taps here will do the trick" *proceeds to full on smash the arm with a sledge* funny how i've been ignoring the bad lower ball joints on my crv then you post this. i was not looking forward to buying a whole new knuckle, good to know i can just press this in without much headache. great video
The ball joint on my 05 Accord have failed at 370k. After replacing them at about 200k I was looking for a possible way to do the job more efficiently than before. The first time I did them the new ones failed in a few months and one actually came loose in the knuckle. The after market ball joints I installed had no snap retainers. I installed new ones with snap rings. Now, as I collected parts for the current replacement I discovered new after market knuckles with ball joint installed for about 88.00 per side. I got new hubs and bearings for 60.00 a wheel. If everything look good I'll save time and money. New Honda knuckles are about 400.00 a side, without hubs or bearings.
I borrowed a press from Advanced the first time. The second time I needed a press, I purchased one from ebay for $39. I've since used it not only on ball joints but u-joints as well. It's nice having it on hand. Excellent video!
I have the same kit, but can't seem to get the top cup centered around the top of the ball joint to get it out. There's a lip where the axle connected that is in the way. Thoughts?
Great video Eric. Always useful to those of us trying to keep a Honda of that generation on the road. Those sensors are an absolute PITA. While changing out the bearings I had the bolt heads snap right off both front sensors. I've completely given up removing them while doing work and even went as far as notching out a press plate so I could press out the remaining two rear bearings with the sensor staying in place.
Eric brilliant video, told to go and buy a complete control arm by my garage only to see your video showing that the ball joint is attached to the hub casting assy,you saved me a few quid there, you are very clear and great communication thro the video,thanks bud, Chris, worcestershire uk.
Thanks, Eric! I don’t have a vice, so I bolted the knuckle to the brake rotor and stepped on it. Ball joint was out and new one installed in like 5 min.
Did the ball joint job in my one car garage yesterday. Couple of tips to add to the great video: 1. If you don't have a lift, you have to get the car up really high on the jack-stands, in order to get the ball joint press to fit between the steering knuckle and floor of the garage (don't plan on getting an impact under there, you will have to wrench it and I recommend a large cresent wrench for a perfect fit on the press' rod). 2. I couldn't get the castle nut on balljoint rod approach to work in order to remove the old ball joint. It kept slipping. Nor did the air-hammer approach work (by-itself, I did have success starting with a press and punching out with the air-hammer). Instead I put an deep impact socket over the ball-joint rod at the bottom. It was just barely long enough to hold the ball joint threaded rod also also fit onto the balljoint housing to push. With the shallow a-symmetrical receiving cup from the press kit I was able to get both ball-joints out on the first try. 3. Putting the new ball joint in was straight forward as Eric shows. However keep in mind when you're not using an impact, you have to wrench this thing. And it takes hundreds of pounds of force on the wrench even when you have the press setup to apply equal pressure. In my one car garage- I was able to brace my back against a wall, put a foot against the hub to hold it steady, and pull as hard as I could. I don't know how I could have done it otherwise. 4. Lastly, you have to press the balljoint in and turn that wrench until it literally will not turn anymore, even with a helper pipe on the end of the wrench, that's how you know its fully seated and the snap-ring will fit in its place.
Super helpful video. My ball joint wouldn't budge, even using that remover tool from the auto store. I ended up (very carefully) beating it out with a hammer. One of the very few times where brute force did the trick.
Thank you Eric as always your videos are the best on RU-vid you are a professional in film and mechanics . I don't even own this model or vintage Honda but I'm watching this video to learn about replacing ball joints.
This video was very helpful as I am having to replace the lower control arm, the strut assembly and some other things after my mother crashed her car into a curb. The axle nut is 36mm, and I got lucky and had no problem getting the abs sensor out of the knuckle. One issue that I had is that I did not "Unstake" the axle nut before I hit it with the impact wrench. It came off fine, but it must have buggered the axle threads, cause I didn't smash the crap out of the end of the axle while removing it from the knuckle. I was very careful to not pound away on the axle but the old axle nut (Which I would replace anyway), does not wanna go back on and I am not going to force it or cross thread it. I have no problem replacing the cv axle if need be and I am going to try and clean up the axle threads I have before I do go that route. The only thing that could gave buggered the threads is the "Unstaked" axle nut. Just an FYI for those that have to do this work.
God bless you, Eric, very helpful. Got brave enough after watching your videos and did my CR-V ball joint today. Rented the tool from Advanced auto, but had to buy impact wrench from Harbor Freight - spinning it with breaker bar was not working for me . My 5 gallon compressor is good enough to make it run for 20 sec, and it was all what was needed! Thank you very much, Sir.
very informative! l have used the press tool, it is a life changer, but l also have compressed air, you actually helped me decide whether to get electric or air tools when l started my tool buying. Electric is hoseless, but you cant compare the power (if you on a budget). sure go spend 500 on a snap on or milwalkee electric impact, but i got a 300$ craftsman air compressor kit and it came with a crap gun, so l bought a aircat, and havent had a nut it could not remove!
The only issue you might run into is when running a grinder. Otherwise, you're good to go. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7Zz9SKSHxFg.html
thank you so much for this video! it couldn't have come at a better time, i have a 2003 Honda CR-V and it needs both of these parts replaced, now i'm not going into the repair hoping there is no technical details that i don't know of that will make this near impossible to do. In other words thanks for the confidence boost!
Thanks, Eric!!! I've been meaning to replace these and I was praying that someday you'd snap out of your Fairmont malaise and shoot a video. You are so so great!
Top notch video Eric! I have 2006 Honda CR-V and a 2001 Civic, they both use identical ball joints, so I purchase genuine Honda ball joints for the Civic and use them on the CRV, since they are not sold as individual parts for the CRV. Thanks for the links to the tool.
Excellent repair video. I don't know if I missed it, but don't forget to lubricate the thread of the C-clamp press! Especially when using an impact gun.
I need to do the to my 2004 Element. Dealer wants $646 for both sides. You are absolutely right they don’t sell the ball joints by themselves. You need to buy the steering knuckle. Which do recommend for ball joints or should I just let the dealer install them. Local mechanic will charge me $75 per side and I supply the ball joints. Thanks
Hey thanks for showing the proper method for getting the tapered shaft out of the lower A arm and tie rod ends. Ive used that method for 50 years without one failure. Viewed another vid by another "car guy" just before yours, won't name him but if you see it you'll get a real good laugh as did I. He used a pickle fork, beat the holey hell out of it to no avail 😂 had to use another method, finally did get it. Showed us all how having that pickle fork since he was 17 made him stupid.😅 The only thing I'd suggest for you is to use the pry bar to put a bit of tension pulling the parts away from one another while whacking, using this method results in having to only whack once or twice. Also use a Ford hammer (3 pounder.) Note too, that using Dot 3 brake fluid works well as penetrant and can be washed off with water if it's being used around items as brake shoes or pads being reused.
At one point you mention 7/8" is a 19mm. 7/8" is actually a 22mm for anyone trying to do this at home. 19mm is a 3/4". Running in for wrenches can be a pain. Keep up the good videos though. Informative.
rented that exact set from advance for ball joints on an explorer. it worked and no major complaints even though it was missing parts but having used both, if i were to buy a kit, it would definitely be OTC. just my $.02
Hey! Is the movement in the Tie Rod ends at 2:20 abnormal? My car is tracking like hell on the freeway and im able to wiggle my tie rod by hand, just like 2:20 in the video.
I replaced both the control arms, Stabilizer links and ball joints as well as the outer and inner tie rods on my son’s 2005 Element after he slid sideways into a curb and bent the control arm on the passenger side. After all this work the passenger side has positive camber and the driver side is spot on. I was able to align the car using the string method. What do you think is causing this? I tightened the control arm with the arm fully loaded.
Eric what I do I cut the ball joint thread flat with ball joint and I press it it won’t move and you can done this in the car and it shorter plus saving time now you don’t have to put deep receiver Try it thanks
More element videos please. I have an 03 will under 100k, but its been through some life. I think it was at the jersey shore for a bit... the nuts under the fuel door have rust. Couldn't get a bolt out for rear shocks, battery nuts were all dickered up. This summer I'll be doing the stuff in your previous videos for the major service. And there is a high pitched rattle when I start it. I am guessing its exhaust related. All kinds of fun stuff. Oh and it gets used well up here in the high desert. I can't afford blizzaks, yet, but its still gone through some serious snow. Managed to high center it a few times. And it's had some off road desert adventures. Love this car. It's awkward, and kind of out of date, but its great. I transported almost a full pallet of soil for a farmer friend without taking the seats out. Do that with anything else. And its a road trip beast, just keep it under 70 or fuel economy is crap if you drive in to a wind. Its a fun car, especially in my area.
LOL I was watching RCR channel where is forester need a low control arm replacement and this was the second video recommended by RU-vid I guess the algorithms are working today
My son bought a Honda Accord. They have a part they call a resistor that fits in the A/C - heater system. It's there to set the temperature so that the A/C and heater are not fighting each other. They charge $130 for this part. It's a heat sink with a Mosfet and a sand fuse stuck to it. You can rebuild these for about $4 . You have to buy enough parts to repair 5 though. The mosfet is from the 1970's Honda Trail 90 and can be found on Ebay. The sand fuse can also be easily found. Don't buy new ones just rebuild the old ones. Collect the dead ones for rebuilding. If I could get enough of them I rebuild them and sell them. I have tested this rebuild and it works.
Reminds me of my Saab, a common fault is the info display and/or AC display dropping pixels from their LCDs, now you can still by new units for $300-500 or you can buy a $10-15 ribbon cable which 99% of the time will fix the problem. Mine was so bad the LCD displayed nothing at all, took 30 min to repair (and that was me learning how to do it), 15 months later and it still works flawlessly.
Great job Eric I myself just picked up a 2005 CRV ex That had a blown motor for $400 and it up putting a JDM KA 24And that and other than that I have been driving it but I haven’t for bid I either got to do swaybar and links strike plates are bearing plates or whatever the hell you want to call them or ball joints... And the last always fun I’m just waiting for to warm up a little bit so I don’t have to sit in crawl around on the garage floor even though the garage is heated the floor is still freezing
Halfway through one side and my control arms just wouldn’t separate from the ball joint. Was replacing them anyway but made separating the ball joint all that more difficult. Trying some things out in the morning but 4 and a half hours in rn and hoping the other side can go better. Currently in phase of repressing the ball joint in
This is great thank you. One of my ball joints on crv is realy bad. Haynes manual says cant be replaced you have to buy complete unit! They must have done a deal with honda.
I'm glad I have a gen 1 CR-V. Working on the knuckle and ball joints is more straight forward, but the damn thing ways a lot more. Removing the old ball joint could be done using an impact socket that fits to edge of the ball joint and hammer it out from the fastener direction, while clamped in a vice.
Great video! Just wondering-why didn’t you change the inner tie rod as well? I’m having this dilemma with my 06 civic. The outer tie rods are shot, but I’m not confident to tackle the inners.
I found that the best way is to pre-lubricate all nuts for a day or two BEFORE you start your work if you are at the house doing the work. Spray that penetrating oil liberally on each one sand let it sit. By day two it will come off without too much problem. Even those axle nuts that the last idiot tightened to 180 Ft. Lbs. I've rebuilt the front end suspension twice in the last 10 years on my Crown Vic using this pre-soak method at home on a carport. I utilized sockets and wrenches varying from 1/4" to 3/4" drive to do my work and a big heavy duty C-clamp for removing sand installing the ball joint. JD
what kind or size of c clamp do you have???? It is funny that you said: "the last idiot tightened to 180 Ft. Lbs." In reality he is not idiot since my honda crv calls for 181 ft lb LOL
An air tool actually saves you hours of work. It's a must tool for a mechanic. I would say it's also worth buying even if you're only working on your own car. Space is the only issue tho.
did this same job on my 04 honda crv also yes you can do it without impact as long as you got a braker bar you'll be fine also for me i rented the remover tool from o'reillys
Glad to have you back in full gear. I know these were from the collection you've had but still relevant. If the inner rod has play (I can pull it slightly and push it back in), do I have to replace the entire rack & pinion or can I just fix the inner rod?
Question from a lees educated mechanic...:1) can I take of the ball joint with a simple but strong C clamp? 2) I also have a leaking shock. Thought of using a full assembly like Gabriel Ultraready mount. Any advice ? Thank you all. And thank you for such high quality videos.
Would you recommend adding more grease to the non serviceable ball joint before you replace the boot and what type of grease would you recommend using?
works on a 02 civic too. I removed knuckle & clamped into a vice as well. Eric, we bought this car new & I have always used (just a tiny bit ) anit seize on ball joint and outer tie rods trends. Good Idea or not ?
In a word... Yes. In more words... Hell Yes! For anything that requires you to be under the car it gives you so much more working room compared to ~2 feet you usually get from having the car on stands, even things like suspension and brake work is easier as you can work at a standing height rather than sitting/squatting.
Hey Eric what were the symptoms that lead to changing out the part? Always enjoy all your videos. If I have a rubbing sound in the front end when I turn left at a 45° angle will greasing any fitting help? Ever think of moving to San Diego? 🙂 great video 👍
Ha! I second this comment! I have a loud one-time popping noise on turning or going over some bumps. Wondering if this is kinda what was happening with your element and lead to this repair. Cheers!
Is there any way to screw up a ball joint install? If it’s seated correctly in the control arm and then you got bolt on and cotter pin in? Just wondering I did my first ball joint and I’m worrying for no reason. Just looking for peace of mind haha. It is pulling to the side I changed the ball joint on but I’m assuming an alignment is all it needs now? Replaced both front struts and left lower ball joint. Dodge Caliber 2007
I appricate this video but I have a question. I have a 2006 CRV and when I follow the link for the ball joint and the tie rod end Amazon is saying that this part does not fit you car. Now the 2004 and 2006 CRV are exactly the same so do you think I should just buy these parts?
Eric, great video, as always, what is your opinnion on adjustable rear upper control arm for the crv/element, to correct the camber in look /problem. Will it wear the rear tires out faster because of the changes to factory spec ? Please do a video on that, thanks
Hey Eric! I’m doing this on my 02 CRV and I can’t figure out why but the ball joint sticks out of the control arm too far. The threads don’t do long enough to tighten the ball joints down. The castle nut doesn’t even touch the LCA. I’m lost
Hi thanks for the information, i'm wondering if astro Kit #7897 will install ball joint for Honda CRV 2006, i know Hondas will require special adapter for ball joints removal, does the astro 7897 set have the adapter? Thanks
***Off topic question *** what is the proper name of the High side A-C tube, the one with the service port on it? on a 2002 civic ex I can not find it in Haynes's manual or on any Honda site. As always I do thank you for you time.
Helpful video as ever. Thanks Eric! I thought the new one you installed is a "sealed" (non-greaseable) type, but the rubber cover is not completely sealed to the bolt, right?
Thank you for the video eric! The ball joint you used is a MOOG K500004 Ball Joint(03-11 element), Rockauto has MOOG K80223 for the 02-06 CRV/03-05 Element. I want to use the k500004 for my 2005 CRV as it as the snap ring. Would this work on a 2005 Honda CRV 4wd?
Hey Eric, I just installed some new upper control arms with new ball joints on my 2009 Ford Crown Vic. Once I put the ball joints into the knuckle and then tightened them down with the nut. I noticed that the boot of the ball joint kind of spun in a tightening motion as I was tightening it down, is that normal or OK
Great vid!!! I add some grease too tie rod/ball joint before install its kind of like adding air to a bicycle tube to keep from pinching the tube or boot in this instance.
Quick question I’ve been looking for upper and lower ball joints for my 2009 Ford Taurus but I can’t seem to find any anywhere is there any other ball joints that’ll fit
Hey I have the same Honda element mines is a all-wheel-drive my struts are very shot so I went ahead and stead of replacing the street I replace the whole entire thing with the spring shock and all would I be able to put those on easy without compressing them
Hey Eric i got a ? for you i changed my 06 Honda Cr-v with a Moog ball joint do they have a snap ring? Because i didn't take one off or did the new come with one to put on?
Isnt there a special tool for pressing out the ball joint from teh wishbone in the hub grappler kit that does it without damaging it? Wher eI work we us something called a hockey stick to pry it for uncentering it from the knuckle.
Smashing job :-D, Ready for alignment to be done. ' The right tools do make the job better, your early years were a struggle. I'm chuffed that you have great tools now, but the old hammer still works well lol.
Hey Eric, since you worked on dismounting the axle from the hub. Would you say that by removing the passenger side axle would be the easier way to replace the starter on these Elements? I've seen your video on it and noticed you still went thru a bit of trouble.
Great video, I noticed You don’t torque any bolts to specific ft/lb. This is one of the the things i am always afraid of when i take my car to mechanics they just use the fancy air tools and over torque all the bolts.
