I don't even own an Accord but I know someone who does. I was surprised that Honda designed these brakes a lot more complex than needed. This guy put up a very clear video on how to replace those rotors. Great job, great video! Just noticed the name of the channel. Hilarious!
First time I took the wheel off to do a brake job on my old 94 accord from back in the day. Rage! Why! As I cried to the heavens. How is this better? What where they thinking!
Thank you for your informative video 👍 Just what I needed to replace my rotors on my 97 Accord SE 😁 She’s my daily commuter with over 280K on the clock.
great job big man! It's very interesting how HONDA made the disc on accord, it's a bit of a hassle to change, but i guess they had a reason to do it like that. Thank you for video, I was scared I might need to use a hydraulic press for the bearing.
You still working on accords ? I stopped by your shop about 3 years ago for some work just about the best guy I know when it comes to accords , keep it up bro
I want to said is the same size or thinner just to bang the rotor out. Or get the same ones but longer and one's you tight them it will push the rotor out. Hope it makes sense. But I will try it on my accord. Still want to know what bolts he use . 👍
The 94-97 Service manual states that the four flange bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm thread and the torque spec is 44 N-m (= 33 lbf-ft [foot pounds]) when tightening them back up when done. I don't know how long they are.
Great vid. Thanks for the info! Kind of a noob here without air impact. Is there a way to get that axle nut and 4 bolts off of the rotor without air tools?
same issue here, the bolts for tires and upper suspension arm (I think it's called) we tied them up together very tight so its turning. then get a breaker bar to turn them lose.
Pretty much need a air or power tool. I have a dewalt impact driver that worked fine, trust me a breaker bar won't work unless you have 2 breaker bars and 2 people that are both really strong
Went to go do my brakes like any other car and tried to pull rotor off and was like wtf. So now im here and who the fuck has a 36mm on hand like bro?? F u honda for this shitty design but i still love it
I’m sure this is a dumb question but what keeps the caliper in the bracket? The threads are on the actual caliper which is on the outside of the bracket, so like how does it stay on?
The 94-97 Service manual states that the four flange bolts are 10 x 1.25 mm thread and the torque spec is 44 N-m (= 33 lbf-ft [foot pounds]) when tightening them back up when done. I don't know how long they are.
I need those 4 bolts that go behind of rotor connectong to knuckle! Any idea what size/thread style they are? I damaged 2 removving rotor with the hammer trick and dont want to go to junk yard a 3rd time!
@@Carflip I went to 2 junk yards and was only able to get 1 and traveled 30miles to a honda to get one. It's the removing all the other parts to get them and the constant freezing. Worst design ever
Get a propane/map torch and heat up the area around the bolt, don't get it red hot but evenly heat it for about 10-15 seconds, hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't break it loose repeat the process just make sure not to catch your car on fire
We have a 97 Accord and the axle nut was a little bit loose. I noticed there's no cotter pin. A shop replaced brake pads. What is the torque setting for that 36 mm axle nut? And do i make a indentation in the thin part of nut at the axle gap?
The factory service manual says MORE than 95 foot pounds (almost twice that). It says "245 N-m (25 kgf-m, 181 lbf-ft [foot pounds])." It states that "after tightening, use a drift [punch] to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft."
If anyone was curious the bolts are 10x1.25x60 I could only find 50mm long which worked fine. If it dosnt seem to work switch to the other 2 holes I had to switch back and forth cause driver side was stuck.
Would have been nice to know there is a snap ring in between the lower ball joint and lower assembly. I wasted a hole day hammering and messed up the ball joint thread and now I need a new one. :'-(
@@lostmy10mm80 Its not your fault. I eventually had to use a pickling fork to separate the ball joint. None of the videos I watched used that tool. Makes it so much easier than constantly hammering. Also I know you don't have to remove the entire knuckle, but in my experience it made the job way easier. Its only removing the 3 castle nuts and cotter pins. Then hammering out the rotor is a breeze with the long 10x1.25 bolts screwed in the bearing. Just a few extra steps.
