Thanks for the awesome content. Incredibly thankful for people like you who post these videos to RU-vid for free to help the rest of us out. Amazes me that there's such quality content out there for doing work on my car which is now over 20 years old. I've watched a few of your videos, and because of them I have been able to change my CV axles, brake pads, fix my central locking... the list goes on. Must have saved myself $1000's, all whilst learning so much about my own vehicle. I don't often comment on RU-vid videos but I just had to say thanks. People all across the world are benefiting from your videos. Love from NEW ZEALAND.
Just did this on both my front tires, after cruising through this video. Helped out alot, thank you. I will mention a few things though, for people planning to do it themselves. 1. If you don't have air wrench equipment, you will need a long (18") handle wrench to get the bolts OFF. 2. I only found the need to remove the inner calipers (outer bolts). The shape of the outer calipers allow for the pucks to be slid out and in without much trouble.
Once again -- thanks for the Advice! Just changed my brake pads today on my 97 accord lx. Besides it taking me a half hour to get the tires off (major rust issues in the midwest), the procedure you documented worked great. I did notice the pads were fairly snug when I installed them. I had to put them in the bracket before I mounted the bracket back. Other than than, it seems like it working great. First the alternator, then the fan blower switch, now this - you are saving me tons of cash!
To properly tell if the pads and rotors were change, you should remove the tire and check to see how much brake pad is left and if there is any major grooves in the rotor. Sign of major wear on either one of those would indicate that they need to be replaced on in your case, not changed.
The front hubs can be changed so regular rotors can be used. I did it on my 97" Accord. You reuse your stock calipers. I used the 4 lug bolt 1998 Acura CL hubs, but that's only because I just bought rims for the car. I really wanted to go 5 lug bolt; more choices when it comes to aftermarket rims.
@GeneralGuanaco You could have multiple problems. The Shaking is usually the brakes. The side to side could be worn tie rods, steering rack, ball joints or suspension bushings.
You can clean the rotors off when you're done with the job. It'll help to take finger prints and grease off of them so that they won't be slippery and break better.
I have a 1999 Honda Accord fortunately you don't have to remove the entire caliper assembly. If memory serves me correct there is only two bolts necessary to unscrew. The caliper sort of just hangs there or pivots downward. Just make sure the hydrolic brake line going to the piston mechanism doesn't stretch too much during this state. Once you've losened the caliper from the rotor you just pop the pads out and put the new ones in. It's not too complicated. I would study it before starting.
great video. i have a 96 accord i take care of although when i got to removing the caliper bolts i almost had a hernia and bend my ratchet trying to get them loose. ended up taking it in after all and spending the money. you should cover stuck bolts in the video. Thanks!
@wolfgang15425 I am pressing the pistion back in to the caliper. You can use a crow bar to pry the caliper toward the outside of the car while it is still mounted.
@aukemist It should, You may need to take off your master cylinder cover. I usually don't because it is not an airtight seal. If your master cylinder is full to the top it could cause pressure buildup and force the piston back out
@mkoujan If it was just your pads then yeah that is steep. The rotors on these cars are a pain, so if they turned or replaced your rotors then I'd say you got a fair deal. If you need info or other parts please visit our youtube channel or website. Thanks!!
If your pads stick in the caliper, they will wear out much faster. You need to clean up the slides, and the rust underneath them so the pads can move back and forth freely. Use an approved lubrication for the pads to slide on those!
I have a 95 civic and my piston won't go back in. I've used the clamp and I've bleed the brakes and no dice. What do you recommend I do, because I'm out of Ideas lol. I'd appreciate the help.
@odom2424 We currently do not have an auto repair video that shows this particular repair on this vehicle. You should be able to apply some of the basics shown in the video.
No! You should inspect the brakes right away and see if something's hanging up on the brakes, or possibly for something that's not tightened down or installed correctly. If the other side of the vehicle is fine, you may want to use it as a reference. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
My Bad! The wheel Lug nuts are 19mm not 18mm. Throughout the video I talk about the size bolts on this car, The sizes of nuts and bolts on your car could be different, please keep that in mind.
normally what happens with that is either the pads were poor quality, rotor was poor quality or the caliper is sticking. The sticking caliper is the cause for most uneven wear on braking systems.
We provide the bolt sizes on the vehicles that we repair to help you. Sometimes manufacturers do use different bolt sizes between years and even different plants in which they were build. Thanks for watching. Have a great day! 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
No need to remove caliper all the way if only replacing pads! Just loosen both caliper bolts and remove bottom bolt pin and slide caliper up with upper pin left in place!
what causes the uneven wear you spoke of? My daughters 97 acura recently. had a full break /rotor replacement. 10k mls, pads on rear pass side very worn/rotor scored. driver side has little& normal wear. live in rust belt. what a bugger getting those rotor retaining screws out. (stupid idea Honda lugs will hold rotor/ not small screw) thanks 4 vid
Yes, one bolt that holds the caliper on has a rubber end on it. Does it matter if it goes in either hole? I'm guessing that it goes in the upper hole. You didn't mention that.
Find the torque specs on these bolts. Always torque the bolts with a properly calibrated torque wrench. Never under any circumstance just use a ratchet or breaker bar and guess how many foot pounds you're torquing it down to. Your brakes are your life! And your tires are your life!
Thanks for the video, but how do you know if the caliper bolts are not pressured on? I tried to remove the front 2 bolts and they were not budging at all... I figured it was due to pressure or just never loosened for a long time.
+Coray Doolin We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a 1996 accord and would like to replace the rotors my self but it seems like a lot of work.. I couldn't find your rotor replacement video for this accord.. Can you make an instructional video on how to replace the front rotors for the accord?
3. The lower outer bolt is a B**** to remove and replace! Both of mine were rusted and different part numbers! D:< When removing the outer bolts I figure i will need a hammer and punch to unseat the suction. Still haven't figured a way to get them back in easily by hand... Anyway, thanks again. You not only showed me how, but gave me the confidence to do it myself! :D
You could have the brake rotors turned. We sell brake pad and rotor kits on our website with free shipping in the lower 48 states. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Did it collapse at all? If you're trying to get the caliper off collapse the piston as far as it will go, and see if you can get the caliper off. On some rear brakes, they do not collapse flush like the front ones. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
No air tools on brakes please. He didn't zip them all the way down but some folks will and it makes the next guys job sketchy as hell if they don't have air or electric assistance.
He did the easy part (pads) but didn't even attempt the difficult part (rotors). This car had a terrible design which made brake jobs a pain in the arse. When you change rotors, you might as well change wheel bearings, ball joints, and heck even the axle. I was happy to get rid of that car.
Normally when brakes are replaced, they squeak slightly when you use aftermarket parts but the noise should go away after a short distance. Doing some braking on the highway should clean up both the pad and rotor.
