Just finished replacing--video was just great. Both passenger and driver side camshaft sensors are removed and installed standing on passenger side. I got the sensors from Amazon $149.88 total straight from Hitachi. Rockauto has them as well, nice selection of parts at great prices. Old sensors had same part numbers except a revision number (guessing) from L20 to L40 HITACHI CPS0008 OEM Crankshaft (right side passenger) HITACHI CPS0005 OEM Crankshaft (left side driver angled) HITACHI CPS0006 OEM Crankshaft (bottom)
You removed both cam sensors standing on the passenger side? How'd you reach it? I figured I'd have to remove the intake pipe to get underneath it on the passenger side.
This may be too late, but there is enough room by the firewall to put your arm there with a deep socket and ratchet. There’s a youtube video showing how they do that
Thnx I have had a problem for a year and a half and taken my car to several mechanics.... and had to do a manual reset everytime before I start the car just for me to figure out it was a position sensor... I would like to give you a huge thanks😁
FYI, Hitachi makes the camshaft and crankshaft sensors for the 350Z, they are: Hitachi p/n CPS0005 angled sensor = Nissan 23731-AL61A driver side intake and passenger side exhaust (angled sensor) + Hitachi p/n CPS0008 straight sensor = Nissan 23731-6J90B driver side exhaust and passenger side intake (straight sensor). They're less than $50 each.
FYI to everyone the OEM sensors are made by Hitachi Hitachi p/n CPS0005 angled sensor = Nissan 23731-AL61A driver side intake and passenger side exhaust (angled sensor) Hitachi p/n CPS0008 straight sensor = Nissan 23731-6J90B driver side exhaust and passenger side intake (straight sensor) I purchased them from carid/toolsid for $55ea for those of you with a quality digital multimeter like a FLUKE model 87 these are the measurements for a new sensor(they are all the same electrically) + meter - PIN 1-2 = 90K these are readings for new sensors 2-1 = 96K 1-3 = 90K 3-1 = 95K 2-3 = 1.2k 3-2 = 1.2k and here is a link to Hitachi's sensor catalog @t It has many of the sensors and is arranged by vehicle
@@BongoisaPyro The meter should be set to OHMs. All of my measurements were taken with a high quality multimeter(mine is a Fluke 87) If you use a meter that doesn't have a high enough OHM scale your meter may interpret anything over range as an open when it just may be that your meter isn't sensitive enough. Also, the wire harness must be disconnected to make the measurements which is why I took all the measurements after removing the bad cam sensor from the engine and measured the new sensor before I installed it.
@@billcekala3542 that's weird cause I bought a brand new Z1 motorsports camshaft position sensor driver side and I used a everlast multimeter it read 1.233 ohms set at 2k and I hit the 2-3 prongs on the sensor itself but it didn't work on my car as it wouldnt start up. I then removed the "brand new" sensor and put back the old one and what do you know? It started right up..
@@BongoisaPyro I don't know who makes the Z1sensor but there are a lot of posts that talk about aftermarket sensors not lasting or not working at all. I can only say that I never used anything but the Hitachi sensors. I assume you meant 1.233K ohms because 1.2 ohms would be a short. What about the measurements for pins 1-2, 2-1, 3-1, 1-3 were they around 90-95K ohms? I know the Z1 motorsports website says it's an OEM replacement but the Hitachi brand logo information is missing from the photo they show on their website. Maybe it is a Hitachi but I would think that Z1 would want to show the Hitachi logo.
@@billcekala3542 well I saw from another post that you deem the sensor bad by checking for any resistance reading if it doesn't show a reading at all then it's toast done no bueno because it's a open circuit. I tested them on the highest setting 200k ohms I touched the positive and negative sides to the 1-2 prongs with no reading then 2-1 same result no reading then 1-3 did read something like 1.0 but it's not oem and not close to it because my g35 would not even turn over with it installed. I removed it and put my old hitachi sensor on and boom it started right up but with issue being that it needs replacing
This may have been mentioned already, but it's best to use hitachi sensors for your Z these motors are picky when it comes to aftermarket sensors..unless you like redoing failed sensor work I recommend hitachi oem parts 😉
This just happened to me literally lastnight while driving home....car kicked down, service engine soon light comes on along with vdc off and slip. Code was Po345---Cam Pos Sensor. Went on Rockauto, ordered both Cam and Crank for $128. Should arrive Monday. Btw i need a deal on a Motordyne Tdx2 exhaust...any info
Did you also have to replace that as well, my. At three p0327 knock sen. B1 . And p0345 cam shaft position sen. I bought the cam shaft sen. Hope it works
Good video guys! HUGE help.....BUT.....I wish you would have showed you removing the 10 on the drivers side......Did you use a wrench or a small socket?
You have multiple sensors on the HR, in the front and possibly rear. I think they may be located on the valve covers themselves. Sorry it's been a minute since I've had an HR z
@@fullthrottleperformance hey if you replace both camshaft position sensors but dont clear the check engine light code with obd2 scanner will car still run rough?
In my experience, autozone sensors were garbage. Had to buy them straight from nissan, and heard of other people having to do the same thing. Just a heads up
@@ewaldo24 I got one sensor from Beck/Arnley. Sensor lasted all of 2 and a half months. If you want them to last seems like the best place to get them now is from rockauto. The OEM sensor is Hitachi. You can source Hitachi sensors from autozone but they are about half the price using rockauto for the same Hitachi sensors.
@@raiya1114 I've got the Hitachi ones in my car. The original one I pulled out and the Hitachi one I put in looks exactly the same. The back arnley and Dorman units are diff. Just whatever you do don't get a cheaper dorman or beck arnley one from rockauto or autozone I've had bad luck with those. Go hitachi and you will have no issues .
yup..my turn..350z was sometimes had hiccups when driving.. it seemes like the transmission was missing for a fracktion of sec..then, it stalled a couple of times after i did a coolant change.. but scan tool sez cam positon sensor Bank2.. and today.. 3 stalls when picking up dinner..that's it. p035x i think.. whatever.. rockauto .. $35..
Mine all went out within 6 weeks of each other. Might as well do all 3 at once. I also reccomend the upgraded OEM Hitachi sensors. My Duralast ones only lasted 3 weeks and went bad again.
Great video! What codes was the car throwing? Why change all of them? Aftermarket sensors are getting alot of failures in a short time....Most reviewers end up re buying OEM sensors to permanently fix their problems...
P0340 / P0345 It was a customer vehicle, I just replace with what they can afford. I always recommend OEM, but I can't force someone to buy the OEM ones. If the AM one's go bad, they'll come back and I'll have to charge again, so I can't complain when someone doesn't take my advice lol
Quick question I have white smoke comming out of the passenger side engine bay behind the engine. I haven't lifted up the car and de greased the headers only replaced valve cover gaskets. Could the cam /crank sensor be one of the reasos why smoke comes out??its white in color and happens only after I park and turn off the car
Good info, but on my 2003 g35 coupe, the hard part is actually removing the 10mm screws from the canshaft sensors. its very tight back there. My ratchet won"t fit and my open / box wrench is too short.... Frustrating
hey , i’m a g35 owner and my car recently got a check engine light , and due to the snow i didn’t pay it no mind because i barley drive it . but when i drove it for a cruise one night shortly after the engine warmed up , the car shut off on me . and when i started it back it it cut off again. of the top of your head would you think that he senors would have anything to do with that problem. j asked people ina groups chat about it, they told me if my codes reads for the senors that would be the problem a
My car stalled out on the highway under high speeds i tried starting it but it just kept turning over like it wanted to start after the car cooled for a bit it started but was sputtering and just died after trying to give it gas. I scanned it and p1167 and p1147 came up for 02 sensor i just installed test pipes couple weeks ago but i also suspected the fuel pump was acting up would a fuel pump thats going out cause this? I added 2 gallons of gas suspecting that was the problem (gas level sensor doesn't work)and the car started up but i doubt it was empty when it stalled out the sound from the fuel pump was faint when i would turn the key after putting the gas and priming it a couple times the sound from the pump came back. i usually reset the clock after every fill up and at around 200 miles is when I'm close to empty, ive driven well past that 200 mark car never ran out of gas..i narrowed it down to fuel pump or mabey crank sensor even though the code says 02 sensor not sure the 02 would cause a stall and no start..
I replaced my camshaft and crankshaft sensors, (I had code p0345) but the code is still on, (i replaced it 10 mins ago) how long do i give it before it goes away, I also erased it on my code reader but it comes back on after I start it
@@fullthrottleperformance so at first I bought the camshaft sensors from AA1 auto and the crankshaft from Orileys, the ones from AA1 did NOT work so I got a refund from them, then I bought 1 sensor (drivers side) from Z1 motorsports and the codes went away with that one after resetting the ECU, since then the code hasn't come back
Hi, I got a P0335 warning last week. Is it safe to continue driving or should I replace the crankshaft sensor? My car stalled when driving very slowly before the warning. Can sensors applicable for latest Nissan models be used for the 350Z? Thanks in advance
My G35 does the same thing I just got my sensors in the mail today hopefully that solves the issue I got all 3 for $ 28 it was over $80 for 1 at Autozone
I'd replace them as soon as you can, I'm not like 100% sure, but I think if the position sensors for major internal parts is bad, that could result in major damage to the motor. And some stuff is interchangeable, but a lot of sensors will not have the same plug. (i.e. the new Maxima has a VQ35DE, but a lot of that stuff will not interchange into the Z)
Can someone please explain to me why my drivers side camshaft sensor (the L shaped looking one) fits into the hole but my wiring harness does not want to slip onto the sensor, i have an 06 350z. is there a difference in camshaft sensors for DE's and HR's
OpticMC if it’s an auto, it’s not the revup. Passenger side should be a straight sensor and the driver side should be the L shape. The rev up uses 2 of each so 4 in total
Thanks man,appreciate it,ur videos on you tube are precise and you are honest and when you fall back,you move fast forward!I support 100%, Happy Holidays and thankyou.Sincerely,Steve Francischetti
I was thinking the issue with my car was the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors but my issues just getting weird. First started with after driving on the highway then getting off my abs traction and slip lights came on causing my brakes to make a terrible grinding noise. And then I was just about to head out to discount tire before I went 15 ft then my slip light started blinking repeatedly and I couldn’t accelerate at all. Honestly I’m just stuck and have no clue
Does the car shutoff with bad sensors? Or is that because my 03 z idles really low when just in park or stopped. It has an aftermarket throttle body and cold air intake (not tuned). I bought it like that. I also got a code for a bad pedal position sensor which I’m replacing but that’s the only code I get. I hope it’s just that if not I’m putting the stock intake and throttle body so it idles normal (hopefully) but I’ve read that these cam and crank sensors could cause the z to idles low and shutoff too. This car is a POS (kinda) but it’s fun to drive.
Is my check engine light supposed to go away as soon as I turn on the car or after 50 miles because I just changed the driver and passenger camshaft position sensor and it’s still reading the code and my light is still on
you have a few options. reset your ecu, unplug your negative terminal and then pump your breaks, or drive the car normal for a couple full heat/cool cycles and it should go away. ecu reset is most effective because if the code comes back then it shows your issue more immediately. whereas driving to clear, may not ever clear and leaves you wondering if its actually faulty or not
Why when I changed my sensor it’s still doing the thing it sounds weird and I don’t get my full power after just changing is there something I should after I don’t get it
Ever fixed this issue? It's weird that the original sensor didn't have an opening ring, and once I installed the new OEM one with the o-ring I don't have all my power
So I ran some amazon camshaft position sensors and my car hated them they literally worked for a day and I had long cranks again... I took the dive and bought hitachi oem sensors now it fires right up
Hello sir a have problem on my Z I check my fuses all good and i change my crank and camshaft sensor, and start then slowly die ? And there no code or engine light, need help please??
Question is that bank 1 sensor the same as the sensor under the car? I change my bank 1 sensor and my g35 is still taking about 10 seconds to start and still got the codes popped up. Code: p0335
To be honest I've never had an issue after doing the idle re-learn and cleaning the mass air flow sensor. I wouldn't say it's associated with the DTCs for the sensors
@@fullthrottleperformance ok cool thank u for the reply! Your content has been very helpful for me by the way! Even after 3 years haha thank u for your service!
Yes, the engine will stall intermittently and then be hard to start. Once the engine cools off, it'll start normally. Eventually, the check engine light will come on, along with the SLIP and TCS lights.
It is very hard sometime's. If you send a request to follow me on Instagram right now, and send a message I can send you a video, while I'm still here at my shop. My IG is @justdriftcharlie
I've got an 06 g35 and I'm hearing a clicking sound on the drivers side (at least that's were it sounds like) on acceleration. Almost sounds like the ac compressor engagement if that makes sense. With the ac off it still makes the sound too. Could this be a abs sensor ? It clicks and then goes away until I stop and then accelerate again. Also, does anyone have suggestions on adjustable upper control arms? I'm tired of wearing the inner tires on the front.
I love my Z but fuck the engine bays are annoying because of how tight they are, I’ve got to change my cam sensors but that one on the right of the engine bay looks like a bitch to get to
You got the de rev up engine most likely so you got two cam sensors in the front by the timing chain sprockets. This videos covers the two rear cam sensors and the crank sensor being the third in this video. Your other two sensors are really easy to get too up front
Hello, i buy on ebay a model A29-640 C23 and the original that has my Z is A29-640 C20 just see the diff of gasket and the screw dont want to fit, its says on ebay is oem 6j90b why the diff??
Sorry for the super delayed response, It all depends on model/engine. If you bought one for a DE rev-up, there's multiple on the back of them. The regular DE has one on each head. It all depends on your engine
Sorry for the super late response. No, I get to it from the passenger side, it's kinda a bitch to get to but you can. I try to not remove the throttle body whenever possible.
@@fullthrottleperformance i know its late but can you fill me in on this?? Ive been dealing with this for over a month and cant get my throttle body off due to stripped screws and dont want to take the whole manifold off if i dont have to.
@@jarrettmcgowan3663 I reach over from the passenger side, feel for the 10mm bolt, and put a small 3/8" socket wrench with a deep 10mm and remove it that way.
2006 Nissan 350Z . I have some issues with the rpms as well , but my rpm are high around 1200 rpm and is constant the don't move from there , gets annoying because is very loud inside the car. also some times when I rapidly accelerate the car to high speed the car in 5 gear lose power or don't accelerate , so I have to go 1 shift down and goes back to normal , but I keep doing it, so I have to wait until the engine cools off and everything goes to normal. I did change the crankshaft sensor the one under the car driver side , but did not fix the issue, do you have any idea ?? also I did clean the throttle body yesterday to see if that help some, but now is worst, the RPM now is at 2000 and jumping up and down . my car is all stock with manual trans. an of course check engine is on with some P codes I don't remember the #
I have a 2005 g35 sedan 6mt and lately its taking 20 second and 2 to 3 sets for my car to crank on. I have a brand new optima battery, the alternator and starter were tested and normal. I have a cel p0455 i believe vapor canister vent solenoid. What could be causing this long start issues. The cranking sounds strong its been doing this for two weeks. Please someone help me
It sounds like your cam and crank sensors honestly. But it could be a variety of factors, I can't say anything definitively because I can't diagnose your car without looking at it
@@fullthrottleperformance i appreciate that. When are you going to drop a new video? I watch all your videos and I've done all my upgrades and maintenance myself. Slims fans, aluminum radiator, Akebono brakes, ball joints. Where are you located?
Is it one of the cam ones, or the crank one? Sometimes you might have to buy a new pigtail and force it off. If it breaks, make sure the wires are labeled, and re-wire it to another pig tail
