you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know of a tool to log back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
Thank you so much for sharing this video. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the vital information here. An strategic procedure was to disassemble the mount to take it out and to get the new one in. That made an important difference.
Man I just did the driver side in mine. It was much harder. To get the bolts started than you made it look like. Then again. I was trying to manage with just a swivel, and no one prying the engine over made the motor mount feel like putting 10 gallons in a 5 gallon bucket.
great video. only question I have is the torque for the lugnuts for the wheels. I thought the torque should be 100 ft-lbs. I have replaced brakes on my 2013 Yukon Denali myself and torqued my lugnuts to 100 ft-lbs based off information I got from a wheel and tire website. Again, great video. Definitely did not look like that was your first set of motor mounts on these trucks/SUV's that you have replaced. You make it look fairly easy.
If you did the mounts individually, so that the driver side mount was installed when you removed the passenger side, would this rotate the engine over enough to provide room for removing the passenger side mount without taking it apart?
Just did this job if you’re doing driver side, take off steering shaft, then break lose the 3 bolts on passenger side mount but don’t take them all the way out the extra slack let’s you slide driver side mount right in once engine is jacked up all the way
I'm tellin you, if you are going to do this on a FWD no matter if it's Caddy, Chevy, GMC, it is a royal pain. You must use the heat shield if you want the mount to last. Lazy mechanics replaced mine, not installing the shield and after a trip on the road it was shot. Another tip, jack on the oil pan, with a piece wood, not the exhaust to get the clearance needed.
I used to be a mechanic, so I am no novice, but this job, done on the ground is a Pain. I did the driver’s side and had to remove the stearin link. I attempted the passenger side (2009 Silverado), and the only way I can think to get it out is by removing the exhaust manifold. I just put it back after taking the bolts out. Maybe you have a trick. I did remove the heat shield. It looks like you do both at the same time leaving the engine jacked up. Also how long should this take?
There's one VERY important thing not mentioned in this video. It is - this job tests every facet of human patience - it is NOT for the novice backyard mechanic. If you do not have many special tools, DO NOT attempt it! This video makes it look MUCH easier than it actually is.
Hi I just replace my motor mounts on my 2005 silverado since my passanger side was Broke. The 3 bolts I pulled out were 15 mm x 2" long there were a little bent from it being broke. So I went to the chevy dealership and they have me 15mm bolts by 1 1/2" I showed him my old bolts that I pulled out and he showed me the computer that calls for the 1 1/2 bolts to the mount to frame. Should I use what they gave me or go find the 2 " bolts? Thanks
Odd that we went from removing one to installing one back to removing another one (same driver side) with another set of directions. Guessing this was done on two vehicles?
Yes and no. I would HIGHLY recommend replacing your old gel filled OEM mounts with the solid rubber mounts used in the PPV (police Tahoes and in the Hummer H3). While it may sound counterintuitive, you will actually be using two passenger side mounts for any 2007 or newer Yukon/Escalade/Avalanche/Tahoe - p/n 25847739. There are plenty of write-ups, posts, forum discussions about this specific mount. Between the heat of the engine/exhaust and the force exerted from the engine each time you increase the RPM’s the gel filled OEM mounts are not designed to withstand the daily “abuse”, whereas the solid rubber H3/Police PPV mounts will. Buy the mount (part number listed above) so you can save yourself the headache and expense of having to replace your engine mounts for a second or maybe even a third time for others.
I have the same truck and i need to do same job to my truck can u guys tell me how much should i pay for the labor only to get this 2 mounts replaced i live in California?
A professional shop quoted me 1100 for both here in California. Parts included. And a somewhat professional quoted me 550 for both. Parts not included. Napa has them for 90 bucks each. I ended up replacing the driver side myself. Good luck. Its about a 4 hour job
Hey @TRQ! Just curious. I’ve replaced my motor mounts back in August & have the clunking happening again just suddenly. I’ve noticed you have the manifold shields & was just curious if they help prevent heat from hitting mounts or?
The exhaust shield won't affect the motor mounts, it's for the wiring around the motor. Check the bolt that goes through the rubber on the mount. It sits going front-to-back. You can see it from below looking up. I've seen those back out and feel like the mount is shot.
My Silverado was clunking, and it was the driver’s side motor mount. The exhaust was hitting the frame as seen by my GoPro. I was told that it was driveshaft, etc. The mounts are a PIA.
+@chrisurfer83 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
