THANK YOU THANK YOU. I am NOT a mechanic but I followed your video and succeeded in realigning my 2011 Ford Explorer timing chain, which had a code "P0017 crankshaft position camshaft position correlation Bank 1 Sensor B" after replacing my water pump. To clear the code, I tried changing my sensors without success, so I opened the vehicle again and realigned the timing chain following your instructions. I was a tooth off. My Ford drives like new now. You saved me a lot of money, thank you thank you.
im right there with you on this i just got my 2015 explorer back together from pump replacment and didnt get the back cam right 1 notch off. opening it back up
I did my first timing chain job on a 3.5 explorer and the chain was slapping. Your video reassured me that it’s okay to do without oil. You’re the best man
Nice demo, I've never done one in a fusion, but the explorer and Taurus take me 6 hours give or take doing it in the vehicle. Evac the a/c and remove the big suction hose across the front of the motor makes it easier, just do a couple trial runs with the cover before putting on the rtv, you can also just put the rtv on the engine instead of the cover.
did that and thought i covered everything but the darned thing is leaking. i need to pull it out like this video- no idea how to do that. will have to study it...
Nice work, Mike! Wow - the engineering on this one is mind-blowing! One 6 foot chain and two 18" chains to run a pair of cams! Note to self: NEVER take a Ford 3.5 for free! 😂
@@SmittySmithsonite yea, but they're not that expensive used, but I've never had a bad ford though, I've had a lot, mine,my familys, and friends, all were sold of traded in for.smethjng different with well over 200k, but I maintained most of them, and im religious about maintanance
@@richsweeney1115 Sure, built before 2007. I’ve got an ‘86 Grand Marquis that has 299,000 miles on the original driveline, and original fuel pump. Still runs like a top! You won’t get that kind of mileage out of anything newer than a ‘15 without major engine work, I can guarantee.
Good job Mike. Lotta work just to change the water pump. My Wife's 06 (timing belt)Kia, and my 06 (timing chains) Nissan both have the water pump "under the covers."
Thanks for another great video Mike! A job well done! Such a stupid design as to the engineers that would put a water pump full of coolant inside the timing cover like that. I remember doing a balance shaft chain special policy TSB on the newer GM 2.4 ECOTEC engine. I think it was a 2011 Buick Regal. I remember those timing marks would never line up no matter how many times you rotate the engine. I shortly found out that you have to make your own timing marks and go by that. As long as the cams and the crank are lined up then you are good to go. I feel the same as you do as some of these GM and other engines don't give me the confidence in my work because the stuff don't line up as they should. The warranty times on those were horrendous and only paid 4.8 hours to do including the high pressure fuel pump. Needless to say after I finished that job the engine ran great and had no more problems.
I never removed engine yet on the 3.5 ford for water pump. Or yet on 3.6 gm timing chain job yet. Always do them in vehicle working on them. Usually can’t tie up a lift that’s why don’t usually pull them out. Thanks Mike as always.
Hey Chad, thanks for watching! Are you beating the book on those jobs doing them in the car? My biggest concern with in the car is the lack of clearance causing smugged RTV resulting in a leak after the fact. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
in the 2012 taurus (what I'm stuck with) I've now learned you HAVE to remove it. i thought i did a great job, but the unibody gets in the way and apparently i didn't put the black rv sealant on right. 3 weeks later it's leaking badly all over.
You made my day thanks for the video it took my 16hrs to do the job on jacks Stands on my ford flex I spend $300 on parts … my dealer wanted to charge me $4500 … but thank you and god I did it godbless 🙏
Absolutely awesome presentation and explanation and instructions on this Job. We own a 2016 explorer and will probably be getting this job done soon since it has 111000 thousand miles on it.
Awesome job Mike! I am presently in the middle of this task on a 2014 Explorer Sport. I opted not to drop the subframe. Is the 3.5 that you have pulled in the video from the Taurus Limited? Do you have a video on the small chain replacement?
My question is our 2014 ford edge has 188k miles should we have this done? I'm just worried about it happening to my wife on the road. I don't lose much coolant but it does go down slightly in time no leaks but the tell tale is the oil filter or air conditioner compressor has coolant residue that's all I have had all these years.. Maybe it's seapage from the weep hole? we bought the edge 2 years old with 59,000 and now at 188,000 it's been a good vehicle I do oil changes myself at 3000-4000 miles no oil loss or burning.. Thank you for making the video well done
Hey Mich5 A, the weep hole for the waterpump is near the alternator and If i remember correctly, it will drip on the AC compressor. If you are leaking coolant out there, i'd highly suggest getting it changed before the problem gets worse.
Everything is beautiful shown. Isn't it worth measuring the valve clearance? How's so much work done? glasses pushers can be replaced. Maybe a few pieces do not have good play, but it requires unscrewing the shaft.
PROBABLY THE WORST IDEA FORD EVER CAME UP WITH TO PLACE THE WATER PUMP INTERNALLY. I HEAR THEY ARE ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE TO BUY. THEN IF THE CUSTOMER DOES NOT CATCH IT IN TIME THE BEARINGS GET WIPED OUT IN THE ENGINE. AND TO TOP IT OFF A DIRECT INJECTED ENGINE. SORRY BUT IN MY OPINION A TROUBLE MAKER THE LONGER IT IS ON THE ROAD.
Yeh, you aren't wrong. A failure of the component can cause major issues. Unfortunately, like Sammy said, they are all doing it now. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@Helicopter Dad! I am not familiar with a 3.5 in a fusion, but the newer Taurus/explorer I have never dropped the power train for just a water pump. I can bang them out in about 4 hours.
How different is the 2014 ecoboost job? I only have 1 vct on each side and a mechanism over the phaser on each side? Is that the only difference you think?
I would always replace the guides. Wear isn't the only issue to be concerned with. From many heat cycles the plastic becomes brittle over time and will break up and delaminate and then clog the oil pump screen. I would also oil the guides and chains prior to re-assembly.
My friend had this issue recently and dealer scared them into getting a new engine, vs replacing water pump and chain. How soon was this issue caught, once the coolant started going into the crankcase? Do you have a concern of secondary damage? I am trying to figure out at which point in time you gotta give up on the engine vs rebuild it?
thx for video! very helpful! mine is seized now from standing.. will try to turn it over by hand.. will see if i can save it now.. and then maybe strip it and change old water pump.. darn ford explorer mk5.. btw there is two types of water pumps with two rows of teeth are those for different version of engine ?
Very informative video. Is there another way to verify you are on the compression stroke when you are timing the engine than solely relying on the three timing marks?
Sure, you could look at the position of the piston and the position of the cam lobes. The top dead center of compression will have the piston at the top of the cylinder and both valves closed. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
@@GoTechTraining I’ve been doing research on this particular engine on how to time it before disassembly and I understand about cam lobes but not quite sure on where exactly the nose and base of the lobe should be in relation to the tappet underneath the lobe. Some videos I see both noses are facing 180 degrees from the tappet, then other videos I see they are facing all the way down touching the tappet or lifter. Sorry for the length of this response. I do appreciate any feedback. Thank you.
i seen guys do these in 7-8 hours sometimes 6 without pulling the engine these are fairly simple i like taking my time when doing these we get almost 14 hours for these
@@scottmitchellrose1732 I have no knowledge of a video. I am a Ford technician and have done this several times,it isn’t difficult. Keep this in mind, this vehicle was designed for easy assembly and the power train assembly is a plug and play. The wire harness and the battery cables will stay with the engine assembly, disconnect from fuse box/ battery. AC will need to be evacuated but compressor remains on engine along with the lines on the compressor, follow them to the connections and remove. Two heater hoses and radiator hoses above the trans at back of engine plus the two hoses at coolant bottle. Exhaust Y-pipe stays on engine, disconnects just past the frame assembly if not rusted to badly. Don’t be afraid to give yourself room to work, remove the cooling fans and radiators if needed. Remove the trans cooler lines at the transmission. Fuel line and vapor lines at the right side bulkhead area, disconnect them. Remove the vacuum line at brake booster. Of course the chassis parts will need to be disconnected, remove the struts from the top at the body, take them with the power train, remove the calipers but hang them from the body don’t separate the lines. You will need to disconnect the upper control arms from the knuckle. Tips… when lowering power train, do it slowly looking for anything that was forgotten or got hung up. Be aware, when the spring/shocks disengage the body they will tip outward, this can cause the inner axle/CV joints to pull apart. To stop this, tie the steering knuckle to the lower control are, wire or bungee cord will work. Don’t cheap out, use a Motorcraft pump, Mahle valve cover gaskets are the factory parts and fit better than Fel-Pro. A timing chain and tension is strongly recommended, the guides seldom need replacement unless broken. Rock Auto has these parts. Good luck. The steering shaft will need to be disconnected from the gear. If hydraulic steering, there is a cooler line on the left front corner that connects the area of radiator. If electronic steering the power& ground is connected around the fuse box/ battery area, network wires are on the forward part of the frame that you’ll be removing disconnect these, leaving the steering gear bolted on the frame.
Hello goTech I have a 2009 ford Taurus with a 3.5 liter v6 engine like this one you working on.i lately was hearing a strange sound coming from the to part by the front valve cover left side where the timing assembly joins.so I could continue driving my car like that and it conk out on me on the road.later I try to start but it wouldn’t only the compressor pully turns I thought maybe my serpentine belt broke but it doesn’t look like it as the compressor pully spins around.do you think my timing change jump and mis align with the top camshaft gears?the car only has 58,000 original miles.i find rather strange my timing belt would go so quick.the other thing I was going to ask you where is the starter located? And is the starter that turns the crankshaft?
Thanks for the wonderful installation video. It sure sucks to have to drop the engine just to replace a water pump which is a fairly common replacement for most cars.
I also have another VERY important question: Are the cam bolt torque specs different on the non turbo 3.5L DOHC VCT SMPI Vs. the Ti-VCT? The manual says 3 stages: 30ft lbs, loosen 1 full turn, tighten 89ft lbs then 90 degree tighten. I followed another video's recommendations for my 3.5l. tighten to 30ft lb, loosen a full turn, then 18ft lbs and 180 tighten. Did I over-tighten? Do I need to grab 4 new bolts and do it over?
Hey Jeremy, what engine do you have and whats it in? I can get you the exact specs. The *30ft lbs, -1 turn, 89 INCH POUNDS, +90°* if for the 11 fusion 3.5 NON turbo. An 11 F150 3.5 turbo has a different spec, different phaser, etc. ~Mike
There stretch bolts. The only thing you done was stretch them a bit more than they were designed for.. The threads won’t be hurt in the cams. Sadly if you was to look up the part numbers more than likely both the none turbo & turbo probably use the same bolts. I know all the bolts from the none 3.5 & 3.7 are all the same. And are a direct swap. Only difference is bore size. Same cams and everything else..
Good job on this video. I "liked" and subscribed because you're very informative and easy to follow. (I'd like to know who the rocket scientist was that designed this engine and put the water pump where it is! What a royal PITA!). I haven't bought one of these cars yet, but, because of this, I think I'm going to go with a 2010 or later and the 3.0L engine. Thanks again!
I've done these and I've never had to take the engine out or the frame or anything you can do it from the top and it's not hard at all save a lot of time and a lot of money
I didn't realize the marks wouldn't line back up after spinning so I turned the motor over a bunch of times hoping they would line back up to double check myself, like I used to do back in the day on my old small block Chevy's, but none of them line up but there exactly 4 links off on all 3 gears when the crank was in the 4 o'clock position and the cam tool fits on, so am I alright even those I turned the motor over a bunch of times by hand
PRODIGY Go Tech Mike Becker My teacher Loved it From the start to finish tutorial 👌 thank you very much for sharing it Please when can you carryout Voltage Drop testing on vehicles Please Take care and have a great Evening 👍 Happy Wrenching Go Tech Mike Becker From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Hey Nick, thanks for watching bud! I'm still trying to find a good car to show some good voltage drop testing on. Don't worry, we haven't forgot about it ;) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Na I work at GM and do those they are gravy. 20 hours labour get it done in like 6. There is certain model or 2 where you really have to remove the engine but most you dont. Removing the engine is like an hour anyway.
Hey guys, to each their own. I prefer to pull them. I get the powertrain down quickly and feel better about the work I perform with all of the room to work on it that I need. Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
A friend of mine did not remove it on a 15 chrysler 300. Easiest job as you only need to remove the lower pan to across the timing cover bolts to completely remove it.
Yes Sir. The water pump is driven by the timing chain. This engine is 1 of the top 10 most reliable ford engines have ever produced. Yep sucks when water pump fails. But other then that mist everything is pretty easy to deal with.
I’m about finished with my Ford Explorer water pump, timing chain, vvt solenoid, alternator, spark plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, fan belt, fan belt tensioner change out, whew…not bad for 167,000 miles but yeah the dumbest design for a water pump placement. Just wait till Ford places the battery inside the fuel tank design on newer models 😂
Another A+ PROFESSIONAL video, Mike! Thanks a million for your efforts! PS- any way that I can purchase a shirt or two to help support the channel? - Dave
Hey Dave, thanks for watching! Not at this exact moment. Hopefully we will have something soon that you can buy to show your support. At this time, watching and commenting is great :) Mike Becker, Senior Instructor
Wow Ford has a habit of making common jobs like alternators and water pumps be extremely labor-intensive for no reason at all...would never own a Ford V6 personally just for this reason!! :)
@@GoTechTraining I read it in service info somewhere. It was my first TSFI job and I was very paranoid cause I have read how finicky these engines are. Took a few minutes but it all worked out.
Why is it necessary to remove the spark plugs in order to turn the crankshaft?? Can please explain I’m working on my explorer as I’m watching this 👁️👄👁️
Thanks Mike! I'm looking at options for lift jacks when removing engines in my shop, tired of setting them on jack stands when lifting the body off. What was the jack you used to set the cradle on?
Hey Josh, This is actually a homemade wooden platform with caster wheels on it. The jack stands sit on the platform, so the cradle and engine assembly can be moved around. Thanks for reaching out ~Ryan Wilsing
I had a 2011 Taurus 3.5 and bought the 100k mile extended warranty. The water pump went out at 104k miles. Coolant flooded the lube system and ruined the engine. Shame on me, I traded it for a 2015 Taurus 3.5 and the same happened at 115k mi. Both had religious service at the dealership.
I'm trying to rotate the engine after I did all this and feels like the lifters are coming into contact with the valves everything is on time properly on all 3 chains
Hello Alfredo, The bucket lifters sit on top of the valves and are driven by the cam lobes to open the valves. Do you mean it feels like the valves are contacting the pistons? I would try and remove the spark plugs, the resistance you feel could just be the cylinders building compression on the compression stroke. Removing the spark plugs should rule this out. I hope this helps! ~Ryan Wilsing
@@GoTechTraining I've removed them already set the timing with tool I've looked inside the cylinder and don't see any contact of the cylinders. Using on demand for my info. Seeing if anyone else had similar issue this is the first.
