I have a 2007 and my rotors are different. My rotors come with the bearing and a new axle nut and with the studs already attached every other video I see is like this one couldn’t find one my trucks style but still super helpful
Thanks for the video, this got me though my first time changing out my rotors. One thing I would suggest however is adding to the description that this video only pertains to 4WDs. I found this out when I got to the point where I needed to remove the rotors and everything was different on my '05 than the '05 in the video. After researching online, I discovered that the rotors for a 2WD is a one piece rotor and hub assembly rather than a separate rotor as in the video.
Yup, I had a '07 2WD F150 with rotors that had hub on it. You would have to remove the 36mm spindle nut to get the whole thing off. Spindle nut is non-usable after being removed as recommended by ford.
Great instructional video. I really like that you give a "tools needed" list, and break it down step by step. It's also a big help giving the torque specifications for each bolt. Great job. My only problem was reading the comments after the install, and seeing that the new rotor was supposed to be cleaned prior to installation. I guess tomorrow I will pull the wheel again, and clean the new rotor with brake cleaner before we bleed the system and road test. I also had trouble getting the "optional" pad clips to stay in the pads . They kept popping out no matter what I tried. I ended up holding them in place with one hand while sliding the caliper over them to keep them secure. Maybe you guys can edit the video description to add in the important step of cleaning the new rotor so others don't have to take everything apart again like I do. Otherwise it's a great tutorial.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +HoaxWhoreHunter
thanks, this video help me tremendously last weekend, just wish I had known that my front wheel drive 2008 had bearings included in the rotor assembly before I spent 30 mins trying to beat it off.
Just a helpful tip, do not manipulate the hardware. There is a tensile strength necessary to reduce vibrations. When you bend the clip, it allows free movement. Noise =comebacks and unhappy customers
Be sure to verify the torque specs quoted in the video. My 2006 F150 4X4 had very different torque specs (higher....) than what were quoted. For instance - the lug nuts (14mm studs) should be torqued to 150 ft lbs, not 110. Still a great video and thanks for putting it together!
Great Video, when I replaced my rotors followed every step and was able to do this myself. The only differences with my 2005 F150 4x4 was the caliper bolt size was 12mm not 13mm. Also the boots on the caliper bolts were attached to the caliper housing, so I was unable to separate them. My truck build date was 10/04. Thanks for saving me some money!!
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I watched the video again to confirm I followed all the steps and yep. I did not miss any of the little details. I only wish I didn't waste my time getting the rotors turned. They took forever, and the results were less than perfect because they were badly scraped.
+John e Thanks for the kind words. For anyone looking to replace their rotors and pads, 1A Auto offers them here: www.1aauto.com/brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00644?RU-vid&CTA%20Comment&ATony
It looks like your "mechanic" overlooked a very nasty gash in the right front drive axle's constant velocity boot. You can see that it's been throwing grease for a while.
They also forgot to mention to spray the new rotors off with brake cleaner, there are oils on the new rotors that have to be removed prior to installing them
Thanks just got a 06 f150 super low miles but after 2 weeks needs brakes and rotors. This helped a lot but I don't see any castle nuts or bearings involved.....why?
I have the same model truck, 2wd. I replaced brake rotors, brake pads, and brake fluid. I put the correct lube on the guide pins and anti seize where the ears slide on the caliper. It rides butter smooth, but when I first start driving, and I slowly let off the brake or let back on slowly, it makes a deep squeaking noise. But doesn't do it when I have driven around and warmed the brakes up. Its not the dust shield touching, but I don't know what else it could be!
The video is outstanding! However, could you please correct the incorrect torque values in the video? The caliper mounting bracket bolts should be 148 ft-lbs, the guide pin bolts should be 55 ft-lbs and the lug nuts should be 150 ft-lbs.
You do not necessarily need to replace the rotor. You can have it turned at most parts stores. Unless it is really messed up i use the old one to save money
I have a 2005 f150 van. I have been watching your video for installing the pad slides . However, my stainless clips are different lengths and I don't know if the longer clip goes on the left side the caliper or ?
I don't think the brake pad clips are optional on the 2005 4x4 model . They are what keep the pads at the right distance from the rotor while they sit in the brake pad clips. I could be wrong, but the directions that came with the new pads mentioned this also. Still an excellent video.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +HoaxWhoreHunter
I have a 2004 heritage with a 4.2 L engine and they keep trying to give me the brake calipers and rotors you have there. The heritage was basically an old body style as you know but how can I get the right hardware.
+Rick James Here's a link the all of the brake rotors and pads that we carry for your heritage 2004 F150. Hope this helps you out www.1aauto.com/2004-ford-f150-heritage-truck-brake-pad-and-rotor-kits/y-mo-c/2004-1931-127#RU-vid&YTC&CTA%20Comment
+Grace Street Church of God Thanks for watching! You will typically need to take off the cap if you are pushing back pistons in multiple calipers! 1aauto.com
I did just as the video said, but it feels like I'm driving with the emergency brake on now. I went for a short drive and when I got back both front rotors were smoking and we're extremely hot. Did I do anything wrong?
+Bradd Finch We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
+Jrom T You do not have to. As long as you follow our video you should be fine. We carry the replacement brake rotors and pads shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/brake-pad-and-rotor-kit-front/i/1abfs00644?RU-vid&CTA+Comment&CGxLkyfWk
+littleRastaman We're always cycling through cars filming hundreds of common repairs for common vehicles every month. We'll add this to our list of repairs to film. Check back again and hopefully we'll have it soon.
Thanks for the video. It has been a while since I swapped out rotors in pads, and it was on a Chevy Silverado, so I appreciate the tips. Question for you : After finishing the job, I found a small rubber sleeve on the ground. I realized that it came out of one of the stud/bolts that goes into the calipers. The ones that you showed being cleaned and greased. I only was able to guess this because I remembered seeing a pattern in the grease on one of the studs. It was the same pattern as this small rubber sleeve. is that sleeve critical? Do I need to pull alllllll that crap off again to slide that rubber sleeve in?
My 2004 front rotors have a nut on a spindle and are a hub/rotor combination with the studs connected. Do you have a replacement video for my type of rotors?
Anybody else have issues with the brake pads sticking due to the bracket rusting and swelling where the brake pads slide? This happens to mine almost every year and i have to grind them back down or my pads drag and get super hot!
Some mechanics crack the bleeder screw when using the C clamp to avoid flushing the brake fluid that’s in the caliper back into the ABS hydraulic control unit. Then do a quick bleed of each caliper and top off the master cylinder with fresh brake fluid after the job is done.
2 things,, unless I missed the part ,(1) shouldn't you take your brake fluid cap off when pressing back the caliper pistons ? and# 2 when pressing back the pistons shouldn't you open up the bleeder screw ? Here's a quote on why ""There are two schools of thought on preventing �debris from being flushed into the anti-lock braking and master cylinder assemblies when the piston is seated in the caliper bore. The first �school� opens the bleeder screw to relieve pressure as the caliper piston is seated. The second �school� clamps the brake hose closed with a pair of hose-clamping pliers to prevent debris from back-flushing into the master cylinder. The first-school method is the most commonly accepted because there�s less chance of inadvertently damaging the hose.""
Nobody gonna talk about how he pushed all that dirty brake fluid back up into the lines when pushing the pistons back, rather then cracking open the bleeder valve ? 🫣🤔🤔
+CoolMan Caravan We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
+Fred N. Smith, Jr. Here are a few videos that we have that will show you how to bleed the brakes. Hope this helps you out. ru-vid.comsearch?query=bleed+brakes