How to replace front wheel bearings hubs for a 2002-2013 MINI Cooper. Nearly identical procedure for rear hubs & for Clubman / Countryman! Get the hubs here: 2002-2006 front: Good brand: amzn.to/23is8Pq (single) OK brand: amzn.to/23isaa8 (pair) 2002-2006 rear: Good brand: amzn.to/1WzVjcn (single) OK brand: amzn.to/1QoYzGS (pair Axle nut: amzn.to/23iu1Mf Note: 2006 and later cars have M14 wheel bolts. Verify bolt hole size before purchasing. Most first generation parts will have M12 size holes. Or, use this as opportunity to upgrade to M14 wheel bolts! Manual Impact driver: amzn.to/1QoYnHw Torque values (2002-2006): Bearing hub to steering knuckle 41ft lb Brake caliper bracket to steering knuckle 81ft lb Break disk hold down bolt (T50) 20 ftlb Drive axle nut 134ft lb Wheel bolts 89 ft lb +- 7ftlb
Just went ahead and did this in my car, and your video was immensely useful. Got it done in less than two hours. I just had to get a 32 mm socket and an impact drill. Bonus is that now I see it’s very easy to do my brakes!
Massive thanks to you from me for this video - I've done this hub change this morning. Your video unlike others shows the sequence if no air tools are available. Worked a treat! Thanks again.
job well done again mod.doing my wifes r53 i had no idea how easy this was one was bad so i decided to do both...5 stars for you man you are my on line mechanic..keep up the awesome work.my wife loves her mini and knowing someone like you to take time to showing how to do the job right,has saved us thousands of dollars.just to say they wanted 600 for the right side to replace hub.i bought two hubs for 280.savings of 320 dollars...once again thank you so much for the time you put to show us how to do the job right.
I can't say thank you enough. I will be making the change tomorrow as my front drivers side wheel hub is bad. Your videos have helped me numerous times.
My big Ingersoll Rand rattle gun wouldn't rattle loose the spindle nut (it doesn't often lose such battles...). Because of that, I had a couple questions, commenting here in case it helps someone else with similar questions. The nut is normal or right-hand thread (not left-hand thread) - the video shows this fact, but I wanted to state it clearly in case you question due to it not coming loose. If it is stuck (which ours was extremely tight....), adding heat to the nut with a torch got us through (and a 3' cheater bar, and a helper standing hard on the brake to keep it from turning...). The advice is loosen the spindle nut before removing the brakes - there is no reason not to - and you may need those brakes in the fight.... Our bearing and seal had fallen apart, which ruined the speed sensor, so might watch out for that. This video helped us on our first mini project and was consulted prior to owning our mini. Prior to buying the car, we recognized it had a bad wheel bearing and unsure what we were getting into (shop fees were a bit scary...). This video helped us understand the complexity, from which my daughter bought her first car - a Cooper S. She then fixed it - a big thank you for making this video!
Thanks for the great video! I just replaced the front wheel bearings on my 2002. Could not have done it without your videos. Replaced my brakes a couple weeks ago with the help of your video on that job as well. Boy, those 4 bearing bolts were tough on one side. Not too easy to get to. And the droning noise is gone now! Thanks again
I just so happened to find out I needed my front hub bearings replaced for my 05 mini coop, great job as I plan on doing the work myself but didn't really know where to begin. Outstanding work as well as attention to detail for each step and what to be careful with. Looking forward to more videos in the future!
Right after replacing the fuel pump and filter on my '06 MCS (using your video tutorial--TY!) BF says let's take if for a spin. "Hmm, what's that noise?' he asks... "I don't know, it's been doing it for a while. Seems like it's gotten a bit louder lately" I reply... Next up on the honey-do list, left rear wheel bearing assembly. Awesome videos. I feel safer with you showing us how it's done. Thanks much!
Thanks for this great video. I just got a 2012 that has a jacked lug hole, too jacked to fix, so I'll be doing a new hub soon and this video really set me at ease on the process. And thanks for the part and torque information, super helpful!!
I do so appreciate your videos. This is at least my third repair where your instruction has saved my skin. Thanks for the thoughtful way you assemble these. Motor on!
Always enjoy the video quality, lighting and density of information in your productions including links in the description. Thank you for helping your fellow mini owner.
Thanks for this video - enabled me to get the job done on both sides on my daughters mini after it developed the classic drone/rumble. Hub bolts can be tough if corroded - had to hammer on a slightly smaller socket in the end but got them off. Took me 90 mins each side. Thanks again.
Thanks so much for your instructional video. Changed both front on my wife's '05 Cooper S. Only thing I had to borrow was a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducer for my 1/2" drive impact wrench for the Torx T50.
This is a great video, thank you so much! I will reference it when replacing the bearings in my 06 R53. For my 09 R55 however, there is a slight difference in the procedure. To access the nuts holding on the wheel hub, you have to disconnect the lower ball joint and sway bar linkage, and the steering arm, so that you can swing the strut off and away from, the CV joint. Then you can access the bolts. Or at least, this is how it was in my case last night. It's amazing you can do yours in 6 minutes; mine took 4 hours!
Awesome, I ordered my set of fronts a few weeks back, been waiting to installing them because I haven't estimated the time and effort it took to replace. Then you delivered and saved the day, thank you. I have a very bad wobbling (+ some whining) sound when I drive and it increases by 500% when turning. I am thinking bearings or CV joint, I also have a grinding/rubbing noise on take-off but it may be unrelated issue.
+Birkir Guðjónsson Not very hard to replace. Noise when turning may be CV, especially if you only hear the noise (or it is much louder) when turning in one direction, but not the other. Perfect time to replace the axles.
Yet again you save my ass on maintaining my JCW. Just did a sprintex blower install and the instructions were dogshit, but your videos make maintenance on my car so easy. This job is next.
+BigSteveRealtor This is probably a one time change in format - I'd love to keep nice stable video, but it's just too hard to work around the camera and still be productive. I may switch to adding the audio after instead of inline narration - we'll see.
My R53 was made in June of 2006 but April was the 12mm to 14mm conversion date. My mini had not been converted to 14mm prior to buying it used. Please check this before installing to save a possible headache.
SIMPLY AWESOME!! your video gave me all the info and visuals I needed and I was able to do one side in about an hour and 15 minutes, relaxing and taking my time. Thanks so much:)
thank you so much haha crazy that you already had a video planned out, perfect timing for me this help out way more than you know so thanks! ( im in florida so yeah everything is rusted and grimed all together
my 2003 mcs making noise in low speed, I thought something is lose in the suspension, but after I saw this video, I will consider check the wheel hub too.
I just replaced my hubs, outer ball joints, and lower steering column. The car started up fine, but the next time I tried to start it I had no luck. I bump started it down my driveway and got the ESC, ABS, and Tire Lights, but pulled no faults. The car still won't start. What do you think happened? Thanks for your time and all your good videos!
Questions Would it be possible to fit a 2nd gen Clubman wheel hub that has 5 lugs to a 1st gen Mini that has 4 lugs ? Or What would be a good way to convert a 1st gen Mini 4 lugs to 5 lug bolt pattern ? Thank you Highly appreciate any information...From the very beginning your videos have been a great help for all Mini owners. BMW Mini should know this without your videos a lot of Mini owners would have been gone a long time ago. Just saying
And I should add: the links to parts and inclusion of fastener torques are the icing on the cake, sometimes I don't want to dig through my Bentley manual, thank you
I’m going to retrace my steps... go back and check everything that I recently replaced. Power steering pump and valve cover gasket. Maybe I didn’t tighten something good or moved something. My tires and rims are good because they are new and I had them balanced and rotated before I replaced the hub and bearing assembly today.
as i stated before in these comments i have now .... removed my brakes and right side wheel bearing for the first time.... the extremely rusted parts were a pain ....Canadian weather EH! problems encountered :- firstly the axle shaft locking nut ...tried to remove the fab only to find my slot screw end snapped of deep inside as previous person had re-dented the locking nut into the shaft all the way home..any way i eventually got it out and away i went mostly following your lead.......i did also break the ABS screw holder....yikkies i wished to take it out to assess the wear to it. and there bloody expensive to replace. and way so far had fun doing this all......on to the next car project. hand brake cables have to be replaced......on order........i hope and your family have a good seasonally times.....thank you.......
Your videos are amazing, one of the reasons I just bought my 2006 R50 is because of all the resources here. Do you take requests on which videos to make? :) My output shaft seals are 'sweating' on both sides.
Your maintenance video is very helpful. I do not know how to maintain the interior. Especially, I do not know how to remove the A pillar. Is it okay if I take off with force? I am on R53, the previous term. I am poor in English and translating. I'm sorry if it was translated into bothersome sentences. thank you.
Hey Mod MINI, love the videos! They're super informative and make me more confident about getting one myself. I'm looking at getting an R53 Cooper S as a project car and daily driver and am expecting to have to do work on it (the one I'm looking at definitely has an oil leak which needs sorted). I was wondering if you could possibly suggest a list of essential core tools you would recommend an owner has for working on the car. Thanks!
I'm going to be replacing the bearings on my 05's rear driver side. Is it necessary for me to use a caliper tool to depress the brake piston? And BTW great videos keep them coming. You're my first resource whenever I need to do do any kind of work on my mini.
I have a 05 S 6sp manual, i have a whirring noise that seems like drivers side front, i jacked it up on jack stands stated it up and went though the gears and its pretty evident about 3rd gear and up, issue is i have a an exhaust leak right past the Cat and so its making it hard to tell if its the front Wheel bearing area or the Transmission, I did change the Transmission gear oil with no change in sound, its allot easier to hear the noise inside the car with the doors shut than outside, any thoughts? Thanks,
+Marc Matthews A wheel bearing would sound the same in gear or in neutral. Transmission noise will change if you put in neutral when at high speed. Wheel bearing noise usually does not change under acceleration or when coasting. Might be axle as well, but usually they last almost forever unless there is boot damage and the grease has leaked out.
I have tried, but since the job change (I was laid off from my day job in 2014) I have very little time any more... I have never been this busy ever, and seems each week is more busy than the last. :-( I still do my best to respond to comments...
This is just a great system, to bad car constructors don't use this more, it would be very good for those of us that buy these cars and don't have much money to spend on them.
just had my bearing replaced ............wish i had had seen this first.....you made this look easy...........where did you get your new bearing from and if you don't mind me asking how much was it regards Phil
Bolt's on the back are rusted out and rounded, find room very tight to access the bolt's themselves. What's the best angle to get to them, should I have wheel on full lock or straight ahead? PS great videos 👍
Try various orientations and socket extensions for best access. If you still can't get it out, remove entire spindle/knuckle and work on it on the workbench
First of all Great Video. I have a 2006 mini cooper S. I have notice when looking for wheel hub assembly, some states that they are for 12MM only. I have learned that some 2006 have 14MM bolt. Can you clarify which bolts these are, so I can determine which ones to get. Thank you.
What's your favorite brand wheel bearing? We returned 4 front Moog bearings last year from my son's R53. Most didn't even last a month. I think they had a bad batch.
+Bad0scar The more expensive, the better... See video descriptions for good brand hubs. In a pinch I bought a cheap brand for a front hub - I destroyed it in under 6 months on the track.
Hey, watched all your videos, nice work. I'm currently trouble shooting a 2004 mini s with over heating issues. The heater is not working, no heat and blows cold air. It has a new heater core installed. Just curious your thoughts on moving forward and what to fix/swap out next. I was thinking new thermostat, flush the system, bleed, add new coolant? Maybe, water pump is bad or going out? Any thoughts?
Thanks for the informative videos. BTW I have knocking sound that comes from the front of the mini whenever I go over bumps. I'm wondering what could be the issue.
I have a clunking sound when accelerating and breaking. Would you think that is something in the drive axle or motor mounts or wheel bearings? Thank you so much for your help.
Not being able to get square on the 4 bolts at the back makes lthings tough combined with the uk weather. Low profile sockets will help, and loads of penetrative oil
hey mod mini, i did this last night and it went well.. but i was 'wire brush on cordless drill' cleaning the bit the hub fixes to before i put the new bearing on, and this morning driving to work my ASC light is staying on after driving a short while...do you think ive damaged that black bit that hangs down from the top in the hole where the axel is? is that the abs sensor? or combined asc/abs sensor?
I'm doing this to my 2003 cooper.do I have to drop the front subframe to change the control arm bush,not the bottom one,the big one that bolts to car chassis.
They are held in by 3-4 clips and one 10mm fastener. You might be able to remove the clips by squeezing on the part you can see inside the bonnet, with needle nose pliers, as you pull back.
Have you seen a worn front wheel bearing cause for steering vibration? Slight vibe at 55-65 started with new JCW wheels & tires on an R53. Double checked alignment and balance. My next course of action would be new front wheel bearings and rotors. Jacked up the front and tested wheels for side-side play; nothing noticeable. Big disparity of pricing for wheel bearing too; $130-250. Any particular preferred brand?
Probably not, it would be really loud to cause that much play and you would have noticed it by now. Usually worn strut or control arm bushing. Kick the front tires toward the back of the car. If they move more than a couple mm, your bushings are shot. But if problem started with the new wheels and tires, that's what I'd suspect first. Find a new tire shop if they can't get them properly balanced on the second try. They may need to break the bead and rotate tires around to get better balance.
You have the best DIY video Mod Mini. I want to buy a 2006 S automatic at around 40 to 50 thousand miles. I'm a little concerned about the CVT transmission and what I've read online. Could you give me your experience with those and your opinion please?
The CVT in the base Cooper are terrible, but the Cooper S does not have a CVT. It has an Aisin 6 speed automatic gearbox. The transmission itself is strong but the valve body is weak. On many of the Cooper S automatic cars, they start to have harsh shifting after around 70k miles. The good news is the valve body can be replaced without removing the transmission from the car and it will make it shift as good as new. The VB costs about $700 at Revmaxconverters.com, and is replaced by removing the transmission oil pan. Revmax rebuilds these stronger than OEM and you should have no more shifting problems. Not a dealbreaker, just set aside about $1000 to budget for a replacement if it needs doing. Most any transmission shop should be able to do this work if you explain that it's just a valve body problem. It's the same transmission as found in many Audi/VW so that community might help point you to a good shop.
Thank you, I bought the car. I'd like to start upgrading the car with a 15% pulley, air intake, cooler plugs, and a muffler that has a nice note. Can the Aisin 6 handle 200 HP, and if so what would you recommend? I don't plan on taking it to the track. Just want to make it faster with a nice classic sound.
Hello! I follow his longtime channel. I'm Italian and I have a R53 Gp. I have an engine problem with codes P1125 and p0638. Do you think the problem is the throttle body? congratulations for the channel :)
thanks for the video save me hole after moon i was replacing speed sensor plastic broke so have to take the Wheel Hub Bearings off to push the sensor down i almost take the excel off thanks man a request timing chain replacement 2006 mini s
Hi Mod MiniFantastic Mini repair video's. Question, I have a 2013 Countryman. Can you recommend where I could get my hands on a good repair manual? One that shows step by step with torque settings? Thanks much. Keep on motoring.
+C Pat Bentley manual is the best but I don't think they make a version for Countryman. For engine stuff and a lot of the body/suspension, it's the same as in the hardtop so you should be able to use that one. amzn.to/1Mv8vik
Thanks again for another informative video Mod MINI, quick question: Would it be a good idea to save up for the "Good brand Hubs" or should I just get the "Ok brand Hubs"? My rear driver side hub is starting to drone
Thanks for the quick response, I dont plan on getting rid of my mini anytime soon so I would prefer getting the better brand. I can save up for the better hubs but that means driving with the drone noise for another month or so.
The passenger side rotor retaining bolt is stripped I am changing the brake rotors and pads at the same time can I get away with removing the hub with the rotor attached still, given everything else is unassembled? Thanks
Hey you rock! Appreciate the time and effort on these videos. I'm changing a rear hub and am putting the caliper back on and have set the torque wrench to 81 ft lb but the bolts keep turning and tighting but doesn't seem to end and I keep waiting for a click but nothing. The amount of force is still the same throughout. I'm afraid of damaging sometime. I want to verify that it is 81ftlb or is the value for the rear less?
Yes they do go in. I can't remember if they are the large one but they are the two 13 mm bolt that sit next to the 4 bolts for the hub assembly. I'm worried I'll strip the head at 81 ftlbs. Good to here it's hard to strip the threads. I will go ahead and inspect them for damage
cimfur maybe my memory is wrong but I thought those are 16mm. Do you have the right bolts? Otherwise - No idea. All I can say is inspect both bolt and hole and make sure they are aligned.
