Just got my new control arms from 1A Auto! Hopefully this weekend I can trek to my BILs, and get his help to put them on. He's got the garage and tools, also more car knowledge than me. I will try to report back. Thanks for the parts and the video!
I bent my very new and very beefy looking pickle fork trying to pop out the old ball joint. Ended up pulling out the rest of the control arm and hammering it off. New one went in relatively easily though and runs great! Take care not to bend the steel dust cover behind you rotor like I did... I had to screw with it for a bit to get it to quit making noise after the repair.
Starting around 4:52, when you are using that giant fork tool, I had this problem today when replacing the wheel bearings. I am not sure this is the best way to deal with this situation. The whole point of the bolt and nut just removed is to hold the U-shaped enclosure tight so the vertical pin coming off the control arm cannot come out (the pin being fatter on top precisely to make the bolt meaningful). Removing the bolt doesn't, in and of itself, widen that gap, nor does forcing it with a hammer, fork, etc. To reduce stress on the top of that pin, and the fastener you just removed the bolt from, take a wedge or chisel and force the gap to widen, then you can remove it without such specialized tools and brute force.
Be careful w the bolt from the knuckle to ball joint I thought I was good to hit the bolt in through the hole like any other time I’ve done but this time I marred up the threads becuase a bit of the ball joint was showing on the inside of the hole. Had to get a new bolt & nut. Make sure the ball joint is fully seated before you put the bolt through
Good job, 👍👍👍 OK if I just want to separate ball joint to remove it from knuckle without damaging the ball joint boot how it can be done only pry bar on the side or hammering besides control arm
Hello I have a question: I was trying to install a lower control arm for the same car but when I install 1 bolt the other does not line up with the frame hole. The car been in a accident and the old control arm it a been vended. Do you think that could be the cause. Everything seems or looks normal but I suspect the suspension k frame crossmenber may be the problem?
I am not sure how you were able to line up the bolt for the front portion of the control arm. In my installation, the bottom hole doesn’t line up with the top hole and bolt is not able to slip through. It’s almost as if the bushing is twisted.
Hi, i bought lower control arm for my Nissan juke at your site, I installed it and bring my car at the shop for wheel alignment and after that I notice that my one side of my wheel are shaking on hard braking the same side where I changed the lower control arm. I don't have those problem before and no steering wheel shaking and no brake pedal vibration. What should be the cause of shaking?
+Chris RE Thanks for checking us out! If it is making that noise it may need to be prelaoded, yes. There could also be other parts that are making this noise as well.
How did you finally get it to go through ? I almost stripped a bolt but thankfully it’s not to bad but it is a pain. I got it through actually but i’m not sure if the ball joint is suppose to go all the way through because every time I have the ball joint all the way through the bolt will not go in because a very tiny part of the joint seems to be stopping it from going through. I just wanna make sure I did it right or if i should readjust it.
One thing that helped me with this today was to simply tighten the bolt with an impact wrench. But I didn't think it was, or could become, tight enough to strip anything. See my comment about the purpose of the bolt. It is possible that, when you removed the part, the two sides of the U were forced out of parallel, which would cause the problem you described. Also, since it is the tightness of the U that keeps that pin in place, in principle, a thinner bolt, with a nut on other end, would do the job just as well, in a pinch.
I had the same problem, I warped a few threads on top of the bolt and had to file/rethread the warped part. Make sure you tap it all the way up, before putting bolt through. Even when I looked down the hole it looked like it wasn't perfectly circular and a nub but second time I hammered bolt through and was able to put nut on
@@1AAuto Thanks for tutorial video. Would you happen to sell that bolt that connects control arm ball joint to back of rotor? I would like to order a couple of those bolts. But, if you don't sell them, would you be able to tell me the name of bolt or part number please?
I watched your video to replace the lower control arms on my girlfriends 2010 nissan versa, but couldnt get torque specs, so i based it off the torque specs for car in video. What bolts/nuts need re-torqued when vehicle has all of its weight on the wheels? Would you happen to know what the torque specs are for 2010 nissan versa? I assume it couldnt be much different then torque specs for the car in this video. Thank you
+Adam Geesey We don't have a how-to video for that vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. We would recommend using the torque specifications from your owners manual or from a reputable Nissan forum.
Hello!This control arm of nissan versa looks very much like the control arm for nissan juke.I bought parts from your website for my nissan juke as my ball joints need to be replace.Just wondering do you think the process is the same?
+Breck’s World We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+deatheatergp We currently do not have an auto repair video specific to your vehicle. You might be able to apply some of the basic steps shown in this video to your application. 1aauto.com
