Thanks, hoss. I've got some damage to my siding that is exactly like this. Owned my own home for just over a year. I was going to pay someone to do this, but you've got me so pumped to do this myself that I sent an expletive-laden text message to my wife about how pumped I am. Maybe the best diy video I've ever seen.
he made it look so easy,nice job !the only thing is ......i wish he would of not cut out some parts i really needed to see step by step .i really enjoyed the teaching
Well done, but I would've liked to have seen the insulation and vapor barrier go in. I do my own car stuff, but home repair is new to me. Thanks again !
Tyvek is the brand name of a type of vapor barrier wrap that goes on over the foam insulation. They usually wrap the new houses in it before they do the siding. It is very thin and flexible and kind of like plastic coated paper. They also tape the seams with special plastic tape. That keeps the moisture from outside getting in the insulation in your walls.
the vapor barrier on the insulation should always be on the warm side. AKA the garage side. otherwise you could get mold between the interior drywall and the outside wall.
I have the exact type of siding with what appears to be water damage. The question I have is when the siding was installed it was overlapped. I noticed you just cut out a section and nailed a new one in. Shouldn't the entire panel be replaced and the sections overlap?
Jordan, Yes. The new sheet should overlap on one side and be overlapped on the other side. I'm sorry that you can't see that in the video. You will notice that the replacement panel is not the whole 4' width of the plywood. I cut a new notch on the overlap side with the skill saw to match the original notch. I didn't want to make the video too long.
If you have a water leak from a gutter above like I did, the water can get behind the siding and cause rot where you may not expect it further down the wall. You really need to find where the water is getting behind the siding. My house was built 30 years ago and does not have vapor barrier. I've been adding it wherever I've replaced siding. You can get by without it, but it is cheap and could save you another headaches years from now. It's cheap insurance.
I may be wrong, but the plastic vapor barrier goes on the other side of the wall, underneath the sheet rock. You'll be trapping moisture instead of preventing it.
I'm trying to replace plywood siding but I have the electric box and the cable stapled on the plywood siding, I have searched youtube for how to do this without getting electrocuted, without success- anyone have a link?
I have rotted siding that I need to replace. Is the construction glue, and vapor barrier necessary? Seems to me a good idea, but contractors I have spoken with recently look at me like I'm nuts. We live in Missouri, with rain, heat and humidity. I expect to find a Tyvek style foam insulation behind the rot, if I don't should I use some?
You have the moisture barrier on the cold side of the wall. Heated moist air from inside the house will travel through the wall to the cold outside. The moist air will condense on the inside of the wall and soak the insulation rendering it useless. Vapor barrier should have been put on the warm side of the insulation to stop penetration of the moist air thus keeping the insulation dry and effective. Great to DIY BUT know what you are doing!
+john smith Probably better to install tyvek and not a vapor barrier at all. Better to let the house breath, but you do want to keep it water proof. Also, moisture trapped in the wall can cause mold & dry rot.
You should always thoroughly check your contractors backgrounds and get real references from friends and relatives. Do you own research and understand what they are telling you so you can make an informed decision. I hope that helps. Thanks for asking.
